2012 Dodge Caliber Problems

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V668000 (SEAT BELTS, AIR BAGS) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. AN UNKNOWN DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR RECALL REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY IN MY CAR ACCIDENT IN APRIL 2017, CAR WAS TOTALED. RECEIVED CONCUSSION AND WHIPLASH AS A RESULT OF MY AIR BAGS NOT DEPLOYING. MY CAR WAS REG MAINTAINED AT THE DODGE DEALERSHIP ON RIVER DALE RD, OGDEN, UT CALLED IN AND SPOKE WITH A REP (SHAY) 10/09/2017 AND SHE GAVE ME A CASE # 32584117 ...UPDATED 10/13/17 *BF UPDATED 7/26/18*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V668000 (SEAT BELTS, AIR BAGS) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. AN UNKNOWN DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR RECALL REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY DRIVERS SIDE SEAT BELT AUTOMATICALLY UNLATCHES ITSELF. I DON'T HAVE TO BE DOING ANYTHING. I GIVE IT TUG EVERY TIME I BUCKLE TO MAKE SURE IT FASTEN. BUT WHILE DRIVING IT WILL ON IT'S ON COME UNLATCHED AND RELEASED. IT HAS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING AND JUST SITTING AT RED LIGHT. I IMMEDIATELY REFASTEN IT BUT THIS HAS HAPPENED ENOUGH TIME TO RAISE CONCERN IF I WOULD BE SAFE IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT.

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving at 15 MPH, the stability and throttle body malfunction indicators warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. An unknown dealer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but did not provide any assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.

I RECENTLY BROUGHT A USED VEHICLE, WHEN I TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE EVERYTHING RAN SMOOTHLY AND THINGS WERE WORKING JUST FINE, NO PROBLEMS. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AND WHEN I GOT OUT THE VEHICLE AND TRIED TO USE THE KEYPAD TO LOCK THE DOORS, IT DIDN'T WORK AND ACTUALLY STARTED THE CAR THAN THE ALARM WENT OFF. I HAD TO START THE ENGINE AND SHUT IT BACK OFF AND MANUALLY GO AND LOCK ALL DOORS BECAUSE I ALSO NOTICED THE LOCK DOOR BUTTON ON THE DOOR DID NOT WORK BUT THE WINDOW BUTTONS DOES. I IMMEDIATELY CALLED THEM AND INFORMED THEM OF THE ISSUE THAT I WAS EXPERIENCING. ABOUT 1 WEEK WENT BY AND I STARTED TO FEEL THE CAR DRAGGING WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE AS WELL AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT COMING ON. AND MOST OF ALL I NOTICED HOW QUICKLY THE MILEAGE WAS MOVING VERSUS THE MILEAGE I SIGNED IT AT. I ALSO CALLED IN AND REPORTED WHAT I WAS EXPERIENCING, THEY SUGGESTED I BRING IN THE VEHICLE TO A SHOP THEY CONTRACT WITH TO SEE THE PROBLEM AND RESOLVE IT. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN ON THE NEXT AVAILABLE DAY FOR ME FOR ABOUT 4-6 HOURS, I WAS CALLED BACK TO PICK THE VEHICLE BACK UP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT WAS OFF BUT NOTHING ELSE AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITHIN THE CAR, AND THE DRAGGING FEELING AS WELL AS THE MILEAGE TROUBLESHOOTING. I WASN'T SATISFIED WITH THE WORK THAT WAS DONE, SO I CALLED AGAIN TO REPORT THE TROUBLES AND REQUEST FOR A REFUND BECAUSE I WAS NOT SATISFIED WITH THE VEHICLE AND HOW HIGH THE MILEAGE GOES WHEN I ONLY DRIVE 25 MILES BACK AND FORTH 6 DAYS A WEEK. I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE FOR 8 WEEKS NOW, AND THIS CAR MAINTENANCE IS POOR AS WELL AS I HAVE A STRONG FEELING THE CARS BEEN TAMPERED WITH BECAUSE OF THE DAMAGE TO ONE OF THE VENTS IN THE CAR ON THE DASH BOARD, AS WELL AS THE CAR NEEDING AN OIL CHANGE ALREADY AND I ONLY HAD THE VEHICLE SINCE MARCH 20, 2020. *TR

Rear subframe rotted out, detached at tire arm...see many complaints online

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that there was a rattling noise coming from the front sub frame of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a local independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the sub frame was rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. A local dealer was contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 108,000.

Due to the subframe rusting on the undercarriage of the car, the lower ball joint completely detached from the car, cause the driver side tire to fall off during operation.

Frame rotted out

I recently only had my 2012 dodge caliber for a year now and out of that year it’s been giving me problems since I had it! The car had completely shut down on me for weeks while I was in the process of burying my father in law who gave me Covid after he passed. Weeks later we ended up figuring out what the issue was which was the tipm. I remember having to tap the battery with a wire for it to start and it didn’t matter what the weather looked like. Well that didn’t last long because it broke down on me again after I’ve replaced almost everything there was under the hood; the battery, the alternator, the fuses to the tipm and relay, the brake light switch, the ignition switch and all the fuses. Now here it is I’m making a car payment and still paying insurance for a vehicle I haven’t driven in months. I ended up researching this car and I see these cars are not reliable and I wish I would have known especially with two small children I already have! I recently read that this vehicle was in a dealer auction but never was told why; not once but twice actually. I despise these cars if I knew what I know now I would of never got this vehicle. I still owe 5grand on this car at that so I’m right back at square one but this go round got two extra bills that I waste money in

I RECENTLY BROUGHT A USED VEHICLE, WHEN I TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE EVERYTHING RAN SMOOTHLY AND THINGS WERE WORKING JUST FINE, NO PROBLEMS. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AND WHEN I GOT OUT THE VEHICLE AND TRIED TO USE THE KEYPAD TO LOCK THE DOORS, IT DIDN'T WORK AND ACTUALLY STARTED THE CAR THAN THE ALARM WENT OFF. I HAD TO START THE ENGINE AND SHUT IT BACK OFF AND MANUALLY GO AND LOCK ALL DOORS BECAUSE I ALSO NOTICED THE LOCK DOOR BUTTON ON THE DOOR DID NOT WORK BUT THE WINDOW BUTTONS DOES. I IMMEDIATELY CALLED THEM AND INFORMED THEM OF THE ISSUE THAT I WAS EXPERIENCING. ABOUT 1 WEEK WENT BY AND I STARTED TO FEEL THE CAR DRAGGING WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE AS WELL AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT COMING ON. AND MOST OF ALL I NOTICED HOW QUICKLY THE MILEAGE WAS MOVING VERSUS THE MILEAGE I SIGNED IT AT. I ALSO CALLED IN AND REPORTED WHAT I WAS EXPERIENCING, THEY SUGGESTED I BRING IN THE VEHICLE TO A SHOP THEY CONTRACT WITH TO SEE THE PROBLEM AND RESOLVE IT. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN ON THE NEXT AVAILABLE DAY FOR ME FOR ABOUT 4-6 HOURS, I WAS CALLED BACK TO PICK THE VEHICLE BACK UP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT WAS OFF BUT NOTHING ELSE AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITHIN THE CAR, AND THE DRAGGING FEELING AS WELL AS THE MILEAGE TROUBLESHOOTING. I WASN'T SATISFIED WITH THE WORK THAT WAS DONE, SO I CALLED AGAIN TO REPORT THE TROUBLES AND REQUEST FOR A REFUND BECAUSE I WAS NOT SATISFIED WITH THE VEHICLE AND HOW HIGH THE MILEAGE GOES WHEN I ONLY DRIVE 25 MILES BACK AND FORTH 6 DAYS A WEEK. I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE FOR 8 WEEKS NOW, AND THIS CAR MAINTENANCE IS POOR AS WELL AS I HAVE A STRONG FEELING THE CARS BEEN TAMPERED WITH BECAUSE OF THE DAMAGE TO ONE OF THE VENTS IN THE CAR ON THE DASH BOARD, AS WELL AS THE CAR NEEDING AN OIL CHANGE ALREADY AND I ONLY HAD THE VEHICLE SINCE MARCH 20, 2020. *TR

Subframe on the vehicle at 90,000 was found to have SEVERE huge rotted holes in the subframe that is supporting the engine. This can allow the engine to drop out of the vehicle at any given moment and cost to repair is $1200 which is insane.

ENGINE CRADLE RUSTED OUT AFTER ONLY 7YEARS

I RECENTLY BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM NORTHTOWN DODGE IN BUFFALO NY IN JAN OF 2019. AS THE WEATHER GOT WARMER MY TRANSMISSION OVERHEATED LITE COMES ON. I CAN'T DRIVE MORE THAN 50 MILES TOPS WITH OUT IT OVER HEATING. I'M THE SECOND OWNER. I AM FINANCING THIS CAR AND CAN ONLY DRIVE IT LOCALLY. I'VE ALSO READ THAT THERE IS A LIFETIME WARRANTY FOR THE POWERTRAIN ONLY IF YOUR THE ORIGINAL OWNER. THE CAR ONLY HAD 64000 MILES ON IT AND IT HAS 69771. SO PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS ISSUE I AM A DISABLED VETERAN AND THIS CAR IS MY ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION.

THIS CAR JUST DROPED POWER ON THE HIGHWAY AT 60MPH TO 15 MPH WITH NO WARNING HAD TO FIGHT MY WAY TO THE SHOLDER AND CALL A TOW TRUCK THE DODGE DEALER SAID IT WAS SOMETHING WITH THE CARBARATER 700.00 DOLLARS LATER AND NOT COVERED THE CAR WASN'T EVEN 3 YEARS OLD THIS SHOULD BE A SAFTY ISSUE BUT NOT WITH DODGE NEVER AGAIN WILL I BY DODGE THEY SUCK.

I RECENTLY BROUGHT A USED VEHICLE, WHEN I TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE EVERYTHING RAN SMOOTHLY AND THINGS WERE WORKING JUST FINE, NO PROBLEMS. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AND WHEN I GOT OUT THE VEHICLE AND TRIED TO USE THE KEYPAD TO LOCK THE DOORS, IT DIDN'T WORK AND ACTUALLY STARTED THE CAR THAN THE ALARM WENT OFF. I HAD TO START THE ENGINE AND SHUT IT BACK OFF AND MANUALLY GO AND LOCK ALL DOORS BECAUSE I ALSO NOTICED THE LOCK DOOR BUTTON ON THE DOOR DID NOT WORK BUT THE WINDOW BUTTONS DOES. I IMMEDIATELY CALLED THEM AND INFORMED THEM OF THE ISSUE THAT I WAS EXPERIENCING. ABOUT 1 WEEK WENT BY AND I STARTED TO FEEL THE CAR DRAGGING WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE AS WELL AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT COMING ON. AND MOST OF ALL I NOTICED HOW QUICKLY THE MILEAGE WAS MOVING VERSUS THE MILEAGE I SIGNED IT AT. I ALSO CALLED IN AND REPORTED WHAT I WAS EXPERIENCING, THEY SUGGESTED I BRING IN THE VEHICLE TO A SHOP THEY CONTRACT WITH TO SEE THE PROBLEM AND RESOLVE IT. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN ON THE NEXT AVAILABLE DAY FOR ME FOR ABOUT 4-6 HOURS, I WAS CALLED BACK TO PICK THE VEHICLE BACK UP. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND GAS CAP LIGHT WAS OFF BUT NOTHING ELSE AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITHIN THE CAR, AND THE DRAGGING FEELING AS WELL AS THE MILEAGE TROUBLESHOOTING. I WASN'T SATISFIED WITH THE WORK THAT WAS DONE, SO I CALLED AGAIN TO REPORT THE TROUBLES AND REQUEST FOR A REFUND BECAUSE I WAS NOT SATISFIED WITH THE VEHICLE AND HOW HIGH THE MILEAGE GOES WHEN I ONLY DRIVE 25 MILES BACK AND FORTH 6 DAYS A WEEK. I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE FOR 8 WEEKS NOW, AND THIS CAR MAINTENANCE IS POOR AS WELL AS I HAVE A STRONG FEELING THE CARS BEEN TAMPERED WITH BECAUSE OF THE DAMAGE TO ONE OF THE VENTS IN THE CAR ON THE DASH BOARD, AS WELL AS THE CAR NEEDING AN OIL CHANGE ALREADY AND I ONLY HAD THE VEHICLE SINCE MARCH 20, 2020. *TR

THE LEFT TAIL LIGHT FIXTURE HAS ACCUMULATED APPROXIMATELY 7.25 INCHES OF WATER/MOISTURE IN SIDE OF IT. THE RIGHT TAIL LIGHT FIXTURE HAS ACCUMULATED APPROXIMATELY 2.75 INCHES OF WATER/MOISTURE IN SIDE OF IT. THE LEFT RUNNING, BRAKE AND TURNING SIGNAL LIGHTS ARE STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, BUT THE REVERSE LIGHT (THE ONLY ONE COMPLETELY COVERED WITH WATER/MOISTURE) DOES NOT. THE RIGHT RUNNING, BRAKE, REVERSE AND TURNING SIGNAL LIGHTS ARE STILL FUNCTIONING PROPERLY (NONE ARE COVERED BY WATER.

The contact owns a 2012 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving at 15 MPH, the stability and throttle body malfunction indicators warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. An unknown dealer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but did not provide any assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.

THIS CAR JUST DROPED POWER ON THE HIGHWAY AT 60MPH TO 15 MPH WITH NO WARNING HAD TO FIGHT MY WAY TO THE SHOLDER AND CALL A TOW TRUCK THE DODGE DEALER SAID IT WAS SOMETHING WITH THE CARBARATER 700.00 DOLLARS LATER AND NOT COVERED THE CAR WASN'T EVEN 3 YEARS OLD THIS SHOULD BE A SAFTY ISSUE BUT NOT WITH DODGE NEVER AGAIN WILL I BY DODGE THEY SUCK.

MY OILS AND FLUID LEVELS WERE FINE. I HAVE ABOUT 74,000 ON MY VEHICLE, AND JUST HAD A RECENT OIL CHANGE ABOUT 300 MILES OR SO AGO. WHILE DRIVING AROUND 35 MPH ON A LOCAL STREET, MY VEHICLE''S CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND ABS LIGHT CAME ON. THE STEERING WENT OUT AND I IMMEDIATELY LOST THE ABILITY TO STEER OR MAINTAIN SPEED. I COASTED MY VEHICLE INTO A WENDY'S. I IMMEDIATELY RESTARTED MY CAR, AND MADE IT INTO THE PARKING LOT BEFORE LOSING THE ABILITY TO STEER AND MANAGE MY SPEED, AGAIN. I MANAGED TO GET IT THE 2 MILES OR SO HOME. I GOT IT TOWED, AND I AM WAITING TO HEAR FROM THE DEALERSHIP.

MY CAR CURRENTLY HAS 23000 MILES ON IT AND STILL UNDER STANDARD WARRANTY. WITHIN THE LAST MONTH & 1/2 OR SO THEY HAVE HAD TO REPLACE NEARLY EVERYTHING UNDERNEATH, ALL HAVING TO DO WITH SUSPENSION AND STEERING. STRUTS WERE LEAKING, CONTROL ARMS WERE REPLACED, SWAY BARS, STABILIZER BAR, ALONG WITH BALL JOINT , AND EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM. NOW BEING SAID THAT THIS BRAND NEW CAR HAS HAD A BAD BALL JOINT FOR QUITE SOME MILES THIS COULD BE THE REASON FOR EVERYTHING ELSE TO FAIL!! I HAVE BEEN HEARING FAINT POPPING/CLICKING NOISES SINCE AROUND 10000 MILES!! I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED IN THIS VEHICLE AND I STILL DO NOT FEEL SAFE. IT IS IN SERVICE ONCE AGAIN BECAUSE OF EVERYTHING THAT HAS BEEN DAMAGED! THE MANUFACTURER HAS BEEN SLOW IN RESPONDING BACK TO ME. PLEASE CHECK INTO THIS MATTER TO MAKE SURE THAT OTHER CALIBER OWNERS ARE SAFE! THANK YOU *TR

Due to the subframe rusting on the undercarriage of the car, the lower ball joint completely detached from the car, cause the driver side tire to fall off during operation.

I NOTICE WHERE EVER MY CAR HAS BEEN PARKED FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS OR MORE, WHEN I PUT IT IN REVERSE TO BACK UP THE REAR BRAKES ARE GRINDING/RUBBING WHEREAS IT VIBRATES THE CAR. NOW YOU MAY SAY THAT THE BRAKES ARE WORN BUT THEY'RE NOT. I'VE HAD THEM INSPECTED AND THE PADS ARE GOOD. I'VE CONTACTED THE CHRYSLER DODGE CO AND WAS GIVEN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THIS LOOKED AT BUT WAS TOLD THEY COULD FIND ANYTHING WRONG. I'VE ASK A COUPLEOF DODGE CALIBER OWNERS AND WAS TOLD THEY HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, THIS PERSON HAD HIGH MILEAGE ON THEIR VEHICLE, EVEN A MECHANIC WHO WORKS FOR DODGE SAID HE WAS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS. IF YOU ASK MY OPINION, I WOULD SAY THAT THE PROBLEM LIES WITH THE MANUFACTURER OF THE BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. NOT ONLY WHEN ITS COLD BUT ALSO WHEN IT RAINS. I'M WRITING TO SEE IF YOU CAN CHECK OUT THE DODGE CALIBERS AND JEEPS FROM THE YEAR 2006 - 2012. THANK YOU VERY MUCH AND I AWAIT YOUR REPLY,[XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

MY CALIBER WAS MOVING STRAIGHT DOWN A CITY STREET AND WAS REAR-ENDED. THE AHR IN THE HEADRESTS DEPLOYED ON BOTH FRONT SEATS. THE AUTO BODY SHOP THAT REPAIRED THE CAR COULD NOT RESET THE HEADRESTS, EVEN THOUGH THEY'VE DONE IT ON OTHER CARS BEFORE. WE CANNOT GET THEM BACK INTO POSITION EITHER. DODGE AVENGERS THAT WERE MADE THE SAME YEAR AS OUR CALIBER WERE RECALLED FOR THIS REASON, BUT THE CALIBER WAS NOT INCLUDED. WE CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR WITHOUT OUR HEADS BEING PUSHED FORWARD UNLESS WE PUT THE SEATS BACK FARTHER THAN I FEEL IS SAFE. I HAVE THE ACCIDENT REPORT AND ALL ASSOCIATED PAPERS IF THEY ARE NEEDED. TODAY, WE TOOK THE CALIBER IN FOR A DIFFERENT RECALL AND ASKED THE DODGE DEALERSHIP IF THEY WOULD ALSO FIX THE HEADRESTS, BUT THEY SAID THEY WOULD NOT SINCE IT'S NOT A PART OF THE CURRENT RECALL.