Owner-reported complaints naming the interior system, filed with NHTSA
Data refreshed
Reports naming seats, latches, locks, linkages and interior fittings. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2000 Dodge Dakota submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 23 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Shown in the owner’s own words, exactly as filed
WHEN YOU APPLY THE BRAKES TO STOP OR SLOW DOWN THE VEHICLE WHILE IN MOTION, THE DRIVERS SEAT SLIDES FORWARDS. I CAN'T SEEM TO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING THE SEAT TO MOVE FORWARD WHEN COMING TO A STOP
THE DOOR LOCKS ON MY 2000 DODGE DAKOTA HAVE FAILED TO WORK. THEY LOCK BUT DO NOT UNLOCK FROM THE INSIDE. THEY HAVE BEEN REPAIRED 2 TIMES AND HAVE FAILED A THIRD . I WAS TOLD THE DOOR LATCH/LOCK ASSEMBLY IS THE PART THAT IS FAILING ALSO THE CENTRAL TIMER MODULE IS ALSO IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. THE DOORS WILL UNLOCK FROM OUTSIDE WITH THE REMOTE BUT WILL NOT UNLOCK FROM THE INSIDE. *JB
I OWN A 2000 DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB. 3 OUT 4 ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS STOPPED WORKING IN THE SAME YEAR AND THE LAST THAT HAS NOT BEEN REPLACED WILL NOT LOCK WHEN IT IS COLD OUTSIDE. *NM
THE DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCKING INTERMITTENTLY WITHOUT ACTIVATING THE POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH. THERE IS ALSO A CLICKING SOUND FROM THE POWER DOOR LOCKS. *JB
POWER LOCK ACTUATORS ALL FAILED ONE AFTER ANOTHER. THE FIRST ONE TO FAIL WAS THE DRIVER'S SIDE REAR IN 2002. THE OTHER REAR AND PASSENGER FRONT FAILED IN 2004 AND NOW THE DRIVER'S POWER LOCK ACTUATOR IS MALFUNCTIONING. IS THIS COMMON AND SHOULD THERE BE A RECALL IF SO?*JB
THE CONSUMER HAD TROUBLE UNLOCKING THE PASSENGER DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. THE CONSUMER WILL CONTACT THE DEALER. *JB POWER LOCKS WILL NOT UNLOCK EITHER DOOR OF VEHICLE, WHETHER USING THE KEYLESS ENTRY KEYHOLE OR USING THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE DOOR. THE ONLY WAY TO UNLOCK VEHICLE IS BY A COMBINATION OF USING KEY AND REMOTE AT THE SAME TIME AS PULLING UP THE DOOR LOCK BUTTON. THIS CONDITION WOULD BE QUITE UNSAFE IN ANY EMERGENCY SITUATION AND NEED TO REPAIRED BY THE MANUFACTURER. VEHICLE STARTED MAKING NOISE AT 34,000 MILES BUT STILL WORK. VEHICLE STOPPED WORKING AT ABOUT 38,500 MILES. *SB *NM
THE PASSENGER SIDE POWER WINDOW FAILED THEN TWO WEEKS LATER DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW FAILED. THE POWER DOOR LOCKS MADE A LOUD NOISE WHEN LOCKING OR UNLOCKING. MOTOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *AK *NM
NO INJURY YET. WE DROVE FROM CA TO TX. JUST BEFORE WE GET TO TEXAS THE DRIVER SIDE LOCK STARTED MAKING VERY LOUD SHRILL NOISE EVERYTIME WE STARTED AND STOPPED THE ENGINE. LOCKES ON THIS TRUCK LOCK AND OPEN WHEN ENGINE IS STARTED OR STOPPED, WHICH IS VERY BAD. HUSBAND TRIED TO FIX PROBLEM, THEN IT LOCKED UP FOR GOOD. HUSBAND HAD TO SLIDE IN FROM PASSENGER SIDE THE REST OF THE TRIP. THESE LOCKS ARE VERY DANGEROUS. TOOK TRUCK TO DODGE DEALER, THEY SUGGESTED TO TAKE IT TO COLLISION PLACE. TOOK 2 HOURS AT COLLISION PLACE TO GET DOOR OPEN. BUT DOOR IS NOT FIXED. HAVE TO MANUALLY OPEN AND LOCK DOOR FROM PASSENGER SIDE NOW. NOW THE BACKDOOR ON DRIVERS SIDE IS MAKING THE SAME SOUND AND SOMETIMES WORKS AND SOMETIMES NOT. THEY SHOULD HAVE NEVER CHANGED LOCKS TO OPEN AN CLOSE WITH TURNING ON THE ENGINE. ONCE THESE LOCKES STOP WORKING ONE CANNOT GET IN OR OUT OF THE DOOR. IF THERE IS A WRECK AND THESE LOCKS STOP WORKING, THERE WILL BE INJURY OR DEATH. I AM TRYING TO WARN PEOPLE BEFORE THERE IS AN INJURY OR DEATH. THIS IS VERY SERIOUS.*AK
AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCK ON 2000 DODGE DAKOTA FAILED IN THE LOCKED POSITION, WAS NOT ABLE TO OPEN WITH KEY, KEY FOB OR DOOR HANDLES, INSIDE OR OUT. IF FAILED BEFORE AN ACCIDENT, EMERGENCY PERSONNEL WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN DOOR. REPLACED DOOR LATCH WITH BUILT IN ACTUATOR. *NM
DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY PART #55256713AB FAILED THUS OCCUPANT CAN NOT OPEN DOOR. *JB
ALL FOUR OF THE DOOR ACTUATOR HAVE FAILED. FIRST THEY MAKE ATERRIBLE GRATING SOUND THEN IF NOT REPLACED, AT AN INCREASINGLY INFLATING RATE (NOW OVER $200 EACH), THE DOOR WILL EVENTUALLY LOCK AND CANNOT BE UNLOCKED BY THE KEYLESS ENTRY. YOU CAN BE LOCKED OUT OR A SMALL CHILD COULD BE LOCKED IN. AT ANY RATE IT IS A DEFECTIVE PART, IT IS UNSAFE, THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THIS IS A RECURRING PROBLEM FOR DAKOTAS AND DURANGOS BUT NOW OUT OF WARRANTY SO TOO BAD. IF YOU FIX IT YOU PAY OVER $200, IF YOU DO NOT YOU RUN THE RISK OF DOORS LOCKING AUTOMATICALLY AND BEING UNABLE TO UNLOCK THEM, RESULTING IN ANY NUMBER OF DANGEROUS, INJUROUS AND DESTRUCTIVE SITUATIONS.*AK
ELECTRIC REAR DOOR LOCKS FAILED. LOUD BUZZ NOISE FROM RIGHT REAR DOOR WHEN DOOR LOCKS ACTIVATED. TOOK TO DEALER AND HAD FIXED AT A CONSIDERABLE CHARGE. APPROXIMATELY 2 MONTHS LATER THE LEFT REAR DOOR LOCK BEGAN DOING THE SAME THING; DUE TO COST HAVEN'T HAD REPLACED AND NOW THE DOOR LOCK WILL NOT MANUALLY UNLOCK WITHOUT FIRST HITTING THE ELECTRIC DOOR LOCK EVEN THOUGH THE ELECTRIC DOOR SWITCH DOESN'T UNLOCK THE DOOR. *JB
BOTH ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS HAVE FAILED IN EXACTLY THE SAME WAY. THEY DON'T UNLOCK PROPERLY BUT, INSTEAD, STICK IN A HALFWAY. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD.*AK
ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS FAIL REPEATEDLY AND OFTEN. THEY PRESENT A REAL DANGER IN THE EVENT OF A COLLISION OR FIRE, WHEN THE DOOR MAY NOT BE EASILY OPENED. ON A MORE MUNDANE LEVEL I WOULD THINK THEY COULD BUILD AN ELECTRIC LOCK SYSTEM THAT DOESN'T NEED TO BE REPLACED EVERY 12-24 MONTHS. I AM TOTALLY DISGUSTED.*AK
CONSUMER WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE FRONT PASSENGER/REAR DOORS TO ENTER/EXIT THE VEHICLE. PASSENGERS WOULD HAVE TO CLIMB IN THROUGH THE DRIVER'S SIDE TO ENTER/EXIT THE VEHICLE. DEALERSHIP WAS NOTIFIED, BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NOT RESOLVED.*AK
THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS (ALSO CALLED THE LATCH ASSEMBLY) ON MY 2000 DODGE DAKOTA BOTH ARE DEFECTIVE AND THE DOORS CANNOT BE OPENED EVEN WITH A KEY FROM THE OUTSIDE IF THE DOORS ARE LOCKED. MY VIN # IS 1B7GL22XYS592928. AN ONLINE SEARCH SHOWED THAT OTHER 2000 DODGE DAKOTA OWNERS HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THEIR AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS AS WELL. *LA
ELECTRICAL LOCKING SYSTEM HAS FAILED. IF YOU USE THE ELECTRICAL LOCK SYSTEM, THE DOORS DO NOT ELECTRONICALLY OPEN, YOU MUST MANUALLY PUSH THE LOCKS UP TO OPEN AND EXIT THE VEHICLE. YOU CANNOT MANUALLY PUSH THE LOCKS UP TO EXIT THE VEHICLE UNLESS YOU HIT THE ELECTRIC DOOR BUTTON UP AND THEN AND ONLY THEN CAN YOU PUSH THE BUTTON UP AND THEN OPEN THE DOOR. IF YOU DO NOT HIT THE ELECTRONIC BUTTON, WHICH DOES NOT ELECTRONICALLY UNLOCK THE DOORS BECAUSE IT HAS FAILED, THEN YOU CANNOT EVEN EXIT THE VEHICLE. YOU ARE LOCKED IN, CANNOT ESCAPE. MANUALLY AS WELL AS ELECTRONIC DOOR LOCKING SYSTEM HAS FAILED. IF AN ACCIDENT CAUSES THE DRIVER TO BE PINNED IN THE VEHICLE, OR UNCONSCIOUS OR THE VEHICLE MANGLED IN SUCH A MANNER THAT YOU COULD NOT PUSH THE ELECTRIC BUTTON UP, MY CHILDREN (8 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER AND 11 YEAR OLD SON) WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE. WHAT IF THE VEHICLE WAS ON FIRE AND THEY COULDN'T GET OUT, IF WE WERE UNABLE TO PUSH THAT BUTTON OR THEY WERE UNABLE TO PUSH THAT ELECTRIC BUTTON UP, THE BUTTON MUST BE PUSHED BY THE DRIVER'S SIDE IN ORDER FOR IT TO ALLOW YOU TO UNLOCK THE VEHICLE, IT WOULD RESULT IN POSSIBLE DEATH. WE TOLD DEALER, THEY WILL NOT FIX, THEY WANT TO CHARGE US $100.00 PER DOOR, I BARELY MAKE ENDS MEET, I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. I HAVE TO DRIVE TO GET TO WORK, THE DEALER COULD CARE LESS.....WE SPOKE WITH CHRYSLER, THEY COULD CARE LESS AND THEY SAY THEY HAVE NOT HAD A FATALITY SO UNTIL THEY DO, THEY WILL NOT COVER THIS SAFETY ISSUE. SOMEONE HAS TO BE INJURED OR DIE IN ORDER FOR THEM TO FIX VERY SERIOUS SAFETY PROBLEM. YOU CANNOT GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE, BY MANUALLY TRYING TO UNLOCK THE DOORS, IF THE ELECTRONIC OPENER IS NOT PUSHED FIRST, THEN YOU CANNOT MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DOORS, THE DRIVERS ELECTRIC DOOR BUTTON MUST BE PUSHED UP, EVEN THOUGH IT DOES NOT MAKE THE DOORS ELECTRONICALLY UNLOCK, IF IT IS NOT AT LEAST PUSHED, YOU ARE LOCKED IN AND CANNOT UNLOCK THE DOORS BECAUSE THE LOCK WILL NOT GO UP....YOU ARE TRAPPED. *NLM
THE POWER SEAT ADJUSTMENTS ON THE DRIVER SIDE STOPPED WORKING IN 04/2003. THE SEAT WAS ALSO UNSTABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE SERIAL NUMBER FOR THE PART IS 5012532-AA. *NLM
CONSUMER STATES THAT VEHICLE'S COMPUTER IS DEFECTIVE. DEALER NOTIFIED. *MR THE VEHICLE FAILED STATE EMISSION TEST AND THE DEALER REPLACED SPARK PLUGS AND SERVICED THE FUEL INJECTION. BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED THE EMISSION TEST AGAIN. ANOTHER MECHANIC STATED THAT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER COULD POSSIBLY BE THE CAUSE. YH
WHILE CONSUMER WAS AT A COMPLETE STOP ANOTHER VEHICLE RAN INTO CONSUMER'S VEHICLE HEAD-ON, BUT NONE OF THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. CONTACTED DEALER WHO WAS NOT WILLING TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. *AK CONSUMER STATES THAT THE DRIVER?S SEAT BELT DID NOT KEEP THE DRIVERS HEAD FROM SLAMMING INTO THE STEERING WHEEL. *YD
VEHICLE WAS HIT FROM REAR AT 50 MPH IN WHICH DRIVER'S SEAT COLLAPSED BACKWARDS, CAUSE UNKNOWN. *AK CONSUMER STATES THAT WHEN THE SEAT FAILED, SHE SUSTAINED INJURIES TO HER HANDS, SHOULDER, BACK, AND NECK. *SLC
THE BACK REST BROKE AT THE WELD THAT HOOKS TO THE LOWER SEAT CAUSING THE SEAT BACK TO COLLAPSE WHILE DRIVING, CONSUMER DID NOT LOOSE CONTROL OF VEHICLE. NLM
SPEEDOMETER DOES NOT OPERATE SMOOTHLY. ON ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION MOVEMENT IS ERRATIC (JERKY); IT MOVES AS IF IT IS GETTING STUCK. DEALER HAS REPLACED THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 3 TIMES WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. THEY NOW SAY THIS OPERATION IS 'NORMAL' BEACUSE IT IS ELECTRONIC AND COMPUTER CONTROLLED. THEY NOW APPEAR TO BE UNWILLING TO DO ANYTHING ELSE TO THE TRUCK. THE SUSPENSION POPS/CLUNKS WHEN MAKING SHARP RIGHT TURNS. IT OCCASIONALLY WILL ALSO POP WHEN STOPPING AND IMMEDIATELY AGAIN UPON STARTUP (GOING STRAIGHT). THE INTENSITY OF THE NOISE VARIES. DEALER SAYS THEY CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM UNTIL IT GETS WORSE. *AK
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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