Owner-reported complaints naming the electrical system, filed with NHTSA
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Reports naming the electrical system — wiring, battery, charging, control modules, infotainment and electrical accessories. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2020 Kia Forte submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 11 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Shown in the owner’s own words, exactly as filed
The crankshaft position sensor keeps going bad and it make the forward collision trigger and it loses power and the dash stops working and causes the car to shut off
1st problem, catalytic converter code says it's bad, check engine light on ever since, car is only 4 years old. 2nd problem possible electrical or wiring issue. Had to replace front right headlight(2times), back brake lights both sides, rear top brake light (2 times), daytime running lights both(2 times), currently right light bulb works, but light on says needs replacement. All in total changed 5 to 6 bulbs within 2 weeks of each other, which leads me to believe there is electrical or wire issue? Very frustrated with both issues. Not sure if related but issue just happened, heat blows warm driver side, cold air on passenger side, possible heater core issue. Again car is only 4 years old and should not have this many issues. Please help!
The contact owns a 2020 Kia Forte. The contact stated that while driving at undisclosed speeds, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle failed to restart. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was towed to the residence. An independent mechanic informed the contact that the battery needed to be replaced. The battery was replaced, and the contact was able to continue driving. The vehicle was taken to another independent mechanic, who stated the failure was due to the transmission pressure. The contact stated that there was an abnormal knocking noise after restarting the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 31,000.
After 2 hours of cruise control om, Collision avoidance warning lights came on for 2nd time. Brought is to dealership the first time it happened and they could nt find anything wrong,
There are significant idle issues (rpm’s shoot up & drop down irregularly while in park) and the car shut off while in park following irregular rpm movement, but was not exhibiting this behavior while previously parked elsewhere. I sent it in to be checked but nothing could be reproduced. A few weeks later the car began doing what felt like engine braking (in a manual vehicle) while I was letting the car roll forward in a traffic jam (foot off of pedals for short moment). A friend witnessed a the rpm’s rising and falling dramatically while sitting in the parked car. Later the car began shutting off at low speeds while my foot was on the gas pedal. All of the lights on the dash appeared to be on and the car wouldn’t crank again until the 2nd attempt and only stayed on when pushing the gas pedal. I sent it back again but it could not be reproduced so nothing was done. A few days ago I noticed it was idling weird again(Up and down dramatically). Today when pulling into my neighborhood my car began to accelerate on its own. - I pushed the gas lightly to make the turn from a stop and took my foot off of both pedals in a slow transition to the brake. While my foot was up in transition the car accelerated moderately quickly before I immediately pressed the brake my foot was already over. The rpm’s went up drastically (you could hear them). I let go of the brake and the car began to rev high again followed by my braking once more. I turned the car onto my street and pressed the gas as lightly as possible and the car jolted forward before I braked hard out of fear of the children in front of me darting in front of my car as they often do on my residential street. I let the car roll to my driveway (a very short distance) before needing to push the gas again to get into the short driveway. The car jolted again almost hitting the closed garage door. I genuinely feel as though had this happened anywhere outside of my neighborhood my life would have been in danger if not lost.
I have brought the car in 3 times since I owed it stating it will not start at random times. I have videos and reports from corporate in regards to this. Along with the car not randomly starting I have had multiple issues of the warning lights coming on. The last 3 oil changes, the techs have said that I was completely out of oil. This car was deemed a lemon and I have been unsuccessful with the dealership on a respectful outcome
My car was stolen due to intentional & concealed absence of engine immobilizer.
I leased car 2020 Illinois. No problems. I had car transported to in 2022 to Los Angeles, and after a few months, the car would check engine light ALL lights I believe, and car suddenly stops and dies out at each stop light. This happened 3 times and frightened me. It happened every couple months and the repair people NEVER put notes on the repair invoice!! About exactly why I was bringing car in for repair, even if nothing on computer showed up, almost like the defect was bypassing (tricking computer) inspection. Have to restart and it would lost all power seconds later and on rainy days, passenger floor soaked. NOTHING on repair places nor dealership would show any problem to fix?? However, when brought back to Illinois, no problem with car, so far since January. So car did not like California OR their emission gasoline no good. Plus even in heavy snow and rain last 3-months in Illinois, passenger carpet never got wet.
The back windows won't go up or down they jam. You try to roll the passenger windows up or down & they won't do anything. Sometimes you have to turn on & off the car a few times open & closing the driver side door so the windows will work. Also the break lights Sometimes have a late response when you hit the breaks the lights don't respond has a delayed response
WATER LEAKING INTO TRUNK CAUSING MALFUNCTION TO SECURITY ALARM SYSTEM AUTO TRUNK RELEASE AND TRUNK LID OPEN SYMBOL TRUNK MALFUNCTION WARNIG SYMBOLS AND ALARM STAYED ON COULD NOT HERE ANY SAFTEY ALARMS WATER IN TRUNK DAMAGED SENSOR COULD NOT LOCK OR UNLOCK TRUNK REMOTLY COULD NOT HERE ALARM ON BLIND SPOT WARNING COULD NOT READ ANY READINGS LIKE SPEED, TIRE PRESSURER COULD NOT HERE SEAT BELT LOCK CHIME
WHEN BACKING UP THE STEERING, KEY, AND WHEEL ALL LOCK. I WAS BACKING UP SO I WAS ALREADY GOING VERY SLOW. WHEN PRESSING ON THE BRAKE THE CAR SLOWS DOWN BUT STILL MOVES VERY SLOW UNTIL IT CANT MOVE ANYMORE. I TRY TO JIGGLE OUT THE KEY AND PUT THE CAR IN LOCK BUT I JUST JIGGLE EVERYTHING UNTIL SOMETHING UNLOCKS. IT HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES SINCE I GOT THE CAR IN MARCH 2020.
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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