2017 Mazda Mazda3 Problems

Repeated instances of the Mazda Infotainment system making changes randomly without any user input while driving. Repeated instances of the navigation system freezing, going black, rebooting while driving.

Malfunctioning on and off on the display screen. My battery went dead after 11 months. Cause? It started over a year ago, but I called Mazda and they said there were no recalls at that time. Are there any now to date? Thank you for your time.

I made a right turn onto a gravel driveway that has a slight incline. My speed was less than 10 mph. At the top of the incline I attempted to make a U turn so I could park the car. Midway through the U turn the car's acceleration increased rapidly to high speed without my stepping on the accelerator. I pressed the brake 3 times. The brake pedal went to the floor without seemingly any effect. In seconds the car traveled across the front lawn, picked up concrete from and old cistern top and smashed into the front porch tearing it off it's foundation. Portions of the porch and tree limb fell shortly after the impact. The front tire was spinning at a rapid rate when I exited the vehicle. Extraction of the vehicle was not accomplished for 2 weeks while experts determined how best to accomplish the extraction. The car insurance company and 2 towing businesses declared the vehicle a total loss. The vehicle is with the towing company per car insurance company request. I don't know if it has been inspected. I did not see any warning lights. I was treated at the hospital for a slight concussion and significant head and facial bruising and lacerations as well as a wrist burn likely caused by air bag deployment.

Hello frustrated people! Second time back to the dealership...backup camera they say got wet from moisture, (after 2 drained batteries in less than 2 years), my cost. I think that this is a very dangerous vehicle that I am driving now!!!! Besides the fact, at my age, being stuck in a parking lot in 20 degree weather for 3 hours waiting for roadside assistance. The camera goes haywire...I cannot connect to the phone or navigation system. I can't leave my house for fear that my car is not going to start! Now I have to pay for a backup camera??? WE think that is the problem, they told me! So far the quote is $600.00...... A DANGER to drive! Can you imagine , pulling off the side of the road, when your navigation goes out! And now warmer weather, it doesnt do that. So how are they going to know now????

I made a right turn onto a gravel driveway that has a slight incline. My speed was less than 10 mph. At the top of the incline I attempted to make a U turn so I could park the car. Midway through the U turn the car's acceleration increased rapidly to high speed without my stepping on the accelerator. I pressed the brake 3 times. The brake pedal went to the floor without seemingly any effect. In seconds the car traveled across the front lawn, picked up concrete from and old cistern top and smashed into the front porch tearing it off it's foundation. Portions of the porch and tree limb fell shortly after the impact. The front tire was spinning at a rapid rate when I exited the vehicle. Extraction of the vehicle was not accomplished for 2 weeks while experts determined how best to accomplish the extraction. The car insurance company and 2 towing businesses declared the vehicle a total loss. The vehicle is with the towing company per car insurance company request. I don't know if it has been inspected. I did not see any warning lights. I was treated at the hospital for a slight concussion and significant head and facial bruising and lacerations as well as a wrist burn likely caused by air bag deployment.

CAR WAS PARKED IN A CARPORT ON FLAT GROUND. CAME OUTSIDE CAR WAS GONE .. ROLLED OUT OF THE CARPORT DOWN A 500 FT DRIVEWAY, TURNED INTO THE DRIVEWAY ACROSS THE HIGHWAY INTO A VEHICLE PARKED THERE.. ELECTRONIC BRAKING WAS APPLIED AND STILL ENGAGED.. PARKED THE CAR BACK INTO THE CARPORT AND TRIED PUSHING IT OUT OF THE CARPORT AND WOULDNT BUDGE... MY VEHICLE ROLLED ACROSS A BUSY HIGHWAY AND IF THE LADY DIDNT HAVE A VEHICLE PARKED THERE IT WOULD HAVE WENT INTO THE SIDE OF HER HOUSE...

Intermittent faulty display (or no display) from rear-view camera as described in Recall 23V-487. Recall was issued in July 2023, but as of August 27, 2024, the parts to fix the recall issue are still not available and Mazda customer service has no idea when the parts will be available. In my view, this is not a timely resolution of the problem.

I AM CURRENTLY STATIONED OVERSEAS AND CONTACTED MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE SEVERAL TIMES FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE ISSUE. I NEVER RECEIVED A REPLY AND IT HAS BEEN ALMOST A YEAR SINCE I WAS FIRST NOTIFIED OF THE RECALL.

I have a 2017 Mazda 3 with exactly 59,454 miles. I was driving my car into work and a warning came on saying coolant temperatures high pull over immediately. I feel my safety was at risk since I was on a highway and my car lost power and would not allow me to accelerate. Loaded the car on a flatbed to bring into a Mazda dealership. I had oil leaking into my coolant. They diagnosed it as a cracked cylinder head or engine block. Only solution I was given was to replace the engine with a factory new engine. I spoke to Mazda customer service and they admitted it is a known issue.

ENGINE STALLS; STOPS RUNNING. LOSES TOTAL POWER WHILE DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 4 TIMES, BUT MOST LIKELY MORE. MY MAZDA COMPUTER SHOULD HAVE RECORDED THESE INCIDENTS.

THE PAINT CHIPS VERY EASILY. THE HOOD IS VERY PITTED. TITANIUM FLASH PEARL. THIS PAINT COLOR WAS AN EXTRA COST TOO. SINCE INITIAL OWNERSHIP, IT HAS JUST BECOME SO BAD OVER THE OWNERSHIP PERIOD, THAT I CAN'T TOUCH IT UP ANY MORE. EXTREMELY RELIABLE CAR OTHERWISE. I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW.

I AM NOTICING EXCESSIVE PAINT CHIPS ON THE HOOD AND FRONT FENDERS OF MY 2017 MAZDA 3. THE PAINT IS: SOUL RED CRYSTAL PAINT. I HAVE NOT NOTICED OR HEARD ROAD DEBRIS HIT THE CAR. THE CAR HAS ABOUT 23000 MILES. THE PAINT SEEMS VERY THIN. I HAVE NOTICED OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WITH THIS PAINT HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES. PERHAPS THESE CARS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND BE REPAINTED. I HAVE SUBMITTED A PHOTO - THERE IS ONE DENT RIGHT FRONT FENDER FROM A ROCK THAT DID HIT THE CAR OVER A YEAR AGO, BUT THE CHIPS WERE NOT THERE.

I HAD MY 3RD FLAT TIRE IN A PARKING LOT, MY HUSBAND CAME TO CHANGE MY TIRE, HE USED THE BREAKER BAR HE USED BEFORE (ONLY WAY TO GET TIRE OFF) AND 4 BEARINGS BROKE, THIS LED TO ME NEEDING A WHOLE NEW HUB ASSEMBLY AND TIRE, I DON'T FEEL THAT A 2 YEAR OLD CAR SHOULD NEED A NEW HUB ASSEMBLY ESPECIALLY BECAUSE THE TIRE REPLACEMENT TOOLS THAT COME WITH THE CAR DO NOT WORK WHEN TRYING TO TAKE THE TIRE OFF MY BILL WAS OVER $600 AND THE CAR IS ONLY 2 YEARS OLD

I WROTE THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTION OF WHAT HAPPENED TO MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICES: ON THE EVENING OF DECEMBER 4, 2018, I WAS ON MY WAY HOME FROM WORK. I WAS DRIVING 75 MPH, THE POSTED SPEED LIMIT FOR THAT STRETCH OF TEXAS HIGHWAY. THE SURFACE OF THE ROAD IS BRAND NEW AND DRIVING CONDITIONS WERE IDEAL. AT APPROXIMATELY 6:10 PM, ABOUT 10 MILES FROM HOME, THERE WAS A LOUD THUD AND MY CAR DROPPED AND LURCHED TOWARD THE CENTER LINE. I THOUGHT I HAD HIT SOMETHING HUGE, AND EXPECTED TO FIND SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE TO MY CAR AND A SHREDDED TIRE. I MANAGED TO KEEP THE CAR UNDER CONTROL AND AVOID BEING HIT, AND WITH A SOUND OF GRATING METAL, MOVED OVER TO THE SHOULDER. TO MY SURPRISE, THERE DIDN'T SEEM TO BE ANY DAMAGE TO THE CAR. NO OTHER VEHICLES HAD TO SWERVE AROUND ANYTHING IN THE ROAD. THERE WAS NO DEBRIS IN THE ROAD. I CALLED A WRECKER SERVICE TO CHANGE THE TIRE. HE DISCOVERED THAT THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL WAS SPLIT IN HALF, AND SAID THE WHEEL NEEDED TO GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP. MAZDA CUSTOMER SERVICE FOLKS SOUNDED SYMPATHETIC BUT TOOK OVER A WEEK AND SEVERAL CALLS TO TOW THE CAR TO A MAZDA DEALER. THEY INSPECTED THE CAR AND DETERMINED THAT I HAD HIT SOMETHING, THUS THEY WOULD NOT COVER ANY OF THE COST. THERE WAS NO EVIDENCE OF ROCK, WOOD, OR ANIMAL IN THE TREAD - I REMAIN CONVINCED THAT THE RIM SIMPLY BROKE WHILE I WAS DRIVING. NO METALLURGIST LOOKED AT THE SPLIT RIM, AND THE OTHER THREE RIMS WERE ONLY VISUALLY INSPECTED. I PAID $601 FOR A NEW WHEEL AND TIRE BUT AM CONCERNED ABOUT POTENTIAL ACCIDENTS CAUSED BY METAL WHEEL RIMS BREAKING. I HAVE PHOTOS AND THE BROKEN WHEEL RIM AND TIRE.

Anytime the tank was filled with gas there was a strong smell of gasoline vapors that persisted for several days. The car was a few months past its warranty on emissions issues and so I was charged about $1500 to replace a cracked fuel pump and fuel vent that was stuck open. The mechanic also said that the check engine light should have warned me about the problem but that neither the dashboard light nor his diagnostic equipment was triggered by the defect. He suspects the car's computer is programmed to avoid drawing attention to the problem. Had the light been working I would likely have caught the problem while it was still under warranty.

My 2017 Mazda 3 (85,000 miles) suddenly had the engine light go on and a loss of power. I’m lucky I didn’t have an accident. I took it immediately to the shop and they informed me that my low pressure fuel pump is bad. I see they have a recall on Mazda 2018–2020 fuel pumps. However, I also saw a class action lawsuit attempt to include Mazdas from previous years because the fuel pump has the same number as those cars. I had just taken my car in for routine maintenance, spark plug change, and inspection at the dealership two weeks before this incidence happened and they didn’t report anything wrong with my car.

CONTROL ARMS HAVE STARTED LEAKING WHERE THE FRONT BALL JOINTS ARE AND THE WARRANTY DEPARTMENT IS DECLINING TO COVER ANY OF THE COSTS. THEY HAVE BEEN LEAKING SINCE MARCH 2020, RIGHT BEFORE MY WARRANTY EXPIRED. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED TO NOT HAVE FOUND ANYTHING WRONG BUT THAT WAS NOT THE CASE. MY PERSONAL MECHANIC FOUND THEY WERE LEAKING THE WEEK BEFORE MY WARRANTY EXPIRED AND SUGGESTED I GO TO THE DEALER. THE CAR MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE GOING OVER SPEED BUMPS AND DIPS. MY CAR IS ONLY AT 42K MILES.

DURING INITIAL MOVEMENT OF VEHICLE AFTER STARTING, SUSPENSION MAKES SQUEAKING NOISE, SPECIALLY WHEN WHEELS ARE TURNED COMPLETELY LEFT OR RIGHT. AND YOU CAN HEAR THE RUBBING SQUEAKY NOISE MORE WHEN GOING ON BUMP WITH WHEELS TURN. NOISE GOES AWAY AFTER DRIVING AND WARMED UP. MORE THAN LIKELY UPPER SUSPENSION STRUT BEARING GOING BAD PREMATURELY. THIS CAUSES WHEEL ALIGNMENT PROBLEMS.

Transmission is pulling during shifting. Dealer updated Transmission software twice already during warranty. Car is doing it again. This can be a safety problem when pulling in front of traffic and Transmission fails to shift smoothly and it jerks/delays.

WHEN FROM A FULL STOP, THEN WITH WHEN NEEDING TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY, THERE IS A DELAY IN ENGINE RESPONSE. USUALLY HALF A SECOND TO ONE FULL SECOND DELAY IN ENGINE RESPONSE BEFORE IT STARTS TO ACCELERATE. ONE ONE OCCASION, IT DID NOT ACCELERATE AT ALL. I HAD TO THEN LET MY FOOT OFF OF THE GAS PEDAL AND PRESS DOWN ON THE GAS AGAIN FOR IT TO FINALLY ACCELERATE. THIS WAS VERY DANGEROUS FOR EXAMPLE WHEN I WAS ON THE FREEWAY. MY LANE WAS STOP-AND-GO TRAFFIC, BUT THE LANE TO MY RIGHT WAS OPEN, SO I WAITED TILL IT WAS CLEAR THEN TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO THE RIGHT AND PRESS THE GAS PEDAL. WELL TO MY SURPRISE IT DID NOT ACCELERATE AND CONSISTENTLY MOVED AROUND 5 MPH, WELL THERE WAS A CAR COMING IN THAT LANE AND MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE SO I LET OFF MY FOOT AND PRESS THE GAS AGAIN AND IT STARTED TO ACCELERATE.

Seat sensor failed.

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT BEGAN TO BLINK ON THE DRIVER DISPLAY. AFTER REACHING MY DESTINATION AND AFTER TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE AND TURNING IT BACK ON THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT DISAPPEARED AND DID NOT COME BACK ON.

HORN FAILED INTERMITTENTLY STARTING AFTER ODOMETER HIT 36000 MILES AND WHEN BROUGHT IN FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE IT PASSED ALL CHECKS; MAY 2020 WHILE DRIVING WHEN STEERING WHEEL HORN WAS PRESSED THE HORN SORT OF 'WHINED' IN AUGUST, WHILE DRIVING WHEN HORN WAS PRESSED IT WOULD WHINE AND DONE IT SMELLED LIKE SOMETHING BURNING; NOW, IF YOU PRESS HORN IT DOESN'T WORK BUT IT SMELLS LIKE LIKE SOMETHING IS BURNING LIKE A CIGARETTE SMOLDERING( THERE IS CLEARLY SOMETHING WRONG WITH EUTH THE STEERING OR ELECTRICAL RELAY SOMETIMES . MAZDA WON'T ASSIST WITH THIS ISSUE SAYING NOTHING IS WRONG - THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE CAUSE WITHOUT A HORN A CAR WILL NOT PASS A SAFETY INSPECTION.

SO I HAVE VISITED MAZDA DEALER IN CERRITOS. FEW TIMES SINCE I PURCHASED CAR I HAVE BEEN TELLING THEM ABOUT MY CAR JERKING TO THE SIDE WHILE DRIVING ITS LIKE A WOBBLE EFFECT THEY SAID CAR WAS FINE I INSISTED TO GET IT CHECKED AND THEY DIDNT SONI WENT BACK AND TOLD THEM I WANTED FULL CHECK THEY SAID FOR WHATBITS A NEW CAR I SAID I DONT FEEL SAFE WITH MY CAR JERKIN TO SIDE AND MAKING ME COME CLOSE TO SIDE SWIPE OTHER CARS. ON THE FREEWAY THEY CHECKED IT MILDLY I SAY THAT BECAUSE THEY DIDNT LAST NOT EVEN AN HOUR WHEN I GOT CAR RETURNED TO ME THE PROBLWM CONTINUED INRECENTLY GOT AN A ACCIDENT DUE TO THIS JREKIN CAR KEPT DOING WHAT DONI DO NOW I DONT FEELBITS OK TO LETBTHIS DEALER CONTINUE WORKINGBIF THEY ARENT CHECKING CARS CORRECTLY

Many modern trucks, SUVs, and cars use LED headlights that are excessively bright and create dangerous glare. When approaching these vehicles from the opposite direction, the headlights can be blinding — similar to having a flashlight shined directly into your eyes — causing temporary loss of visibility. The glare also affects drivers traveling in the same direction, as the intense light reflects sharply off rear‑view and side mirrors. This creates a persistent distraction and makes it difficult to maintain safe awareness of the road. This issue is widespread across many vehicle types and appears to be related to the brightness and mounting height of LED headlights, especially on larger vehicles. It poses a significant safety hazard and should be investigated as a systemic lighting problem.

Power seat sliding mechanism on drivers side when actuating the forward and reverse lever is extremely noisy. The noise started at around 45000 miles when the car was 3 years old. I was able to make the repair myself after finding a tsb on nhtsa.gov. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10143977-9999.pdf. Required part # can found in this tsb. The original part is defective. Dealer will make the repair for $800 plus. You can do it yourself for $25. The actual repair is extremely simple. Also there is no reason to remove the seat bolts as done in the tsb.