Reports submitted to NHTSA by owners and drivers, shown in full
Data refreshed
Our database holds 27 NHTSA owner-reported complaints for the 1999 Mazda Millenia. Each one is a report filed by an owner or driver and published by NHTSA without most of them being verified. A complaint is not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. Narratives are shown exactly as filed.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Showing 1–25 of 27 · page 1 of 2
1999 MAZDA MILLENNIA. CONSUMER STATES SUDDEN INCREASE OF SPEED *TGW THE CONSUMER STATED THE PROBLEM WITH THE SUDDEN INCREASE IN SPEED OCCURRED WHEN THE CRUISE CONTROL WAS ACTIVATED. *JB THE CONSUMER STATED SEVERAL YEARS AGO, MAZDA ISSUED NOTICES TO ITS DEALERS IDENTIFYING THE PROBLEM, BUT DIDN'T OFFER A RESOLUTION AND REFUSED TO ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR FIXING THE PROBLEM. UPDATED 09/06/11*JB
INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) HELLO: MY WIFE'S 1999 MAZDA MILLENNIA S [XXX] IS ANOTHER VEHICLE HAVING ACCELERATION PROBLEMS THAT THE COMPANY HAS REFUSED TO REPAIR THROUGHOUT OUR OWNERSHIP OF THE AUTO. WE PURCHASED THE MAZDA FROM UNIVERSITY FORD/MAZDA IN ATHENS, GA IN LATE 1999. IT WAS A NEW VEHICLE WITHOUT PRIOR TITLE OWNERSHIP. I DO NOT REMEMBER THE MILEAGE ON THE AUTO; IT MAY HAVE BEEN 50 TO 100 MILES. WHENEVER WE USE THE CRUISE CONTROL, THE MAZDA ACCELERATES. AT FIRST, WE DID NOT NOTICE THE PROBLEM. IT WAS NOT UNTIL WE WERE PULLED OVER BY A POLICE OFFICER, TELLING US THAT WE WERE DRIVING MORE THAN TEN (10) MILES FASTER THAN WHERE THE CRUISE CONTROL HAD BEEN SET. WE IMMEDIATELY TOOK THE AUTO BACK TO THE DEALER AND REPORTED THE PROBLEM. THEY CLAIMED THERE WAS NO PROBLEM AND RETURNED THE AUTO TO US. DURING THE NEXT YEARS, WE HAVE TAKEN THE MAZDA TO VARIOUS DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE NORTH GEORGIA AREA AND ALL CLAIM THERE IS NO PROBLEM. SEVERAL YEARS AGO, I RAN A CHECK ON EDMUNDS.COM AND FOUND A TECHNICAL BULLETIN ISSUED BY MAZDA TO ITS DEALERS REPORTING THE PROBLEM BUT NOT ALLOWING IT TO BE REPAIRED AT THE COMPANY'S EXPENSE. THIS APPEARS TO BE SIMILAR TO THE ON-GOING TOYOTA PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP US HAVE THIS PROBLEM CORRECTED. [XXX] *TR
I TOOK THE CAR INTO A TIRE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE 17 INCH, CHROME WHEELS CHECKED FOR SLOW TIRE DEFLATION AND THE COMPANY TOLD ME THAT ALL THE WHEELS WERE SEVERELY CORRODED AND THAT THEY WOULD EVENTUALLY FAIL STRUCTURALLY WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. THE ARE THE OEM WHEELS THAT CAME WITH THE ORIGINAL PURCHASE. THERE HAS BEEN AN NHTSA # 631614 ISSUED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I AM NOTICING WITH MY WHEELS. *TR
1999 MAZDA MILLENIA TRAVELLING AT 60 MPH REAR-ENDED A CAR T HAT PULLED IN FRONT . NEITHER THE DRIVER OR PASSANGER AIRBAG DEPLOYED, CAUSING THE DRIVER TO COLLIDE WITH THE STEERING WHEEL RESULTING IN INJURIES. *AK
I CURRENTLY OWN A 1999 MADZA MILLENIA, WHICH I PURCHASED PRE-OWNED, IN 2002. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS AND EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE REPAIR BILLS SINCE THAT TIME. THE CAR BREAKS DOWN/IS IN NEED OF REPAIR EVERY 3-4 MONTHS, AND IT IS ALWAYS THE SAME MAJOR PROBLEM WITH 2-5 NEW THINGS NEEDING TO BE REPAIRED AS WELL. MY LATEST REPAIR BILL, (2) WEEKS AGO, WAS TO THE TUNE OF $1280. 80. THE CHECK ENGINE CAME ON IN OCTOBER 2003 AND HAS NOT WENT OFF SINCE THAT TIME. I WAS AFRAID TO DRIVE THE CAR WHEN THIS OCCURRED, BUT I WAS TOLD IT WAS OK TO DO SO WHEN IT ONCE AGAIN IT CAME ON AFTER I TOOK IT IN FOR REPAIR TO THE TUNE OF $898.00. IT HAS BLINKED A TOTAL OF (3) TIMES WITH THE LATEST BEING ON YESTERDAY (THE AFOREMENTIONED $1280.80 REPAIR BILL WAS TO CORRECT THE BLINKING PROBLEM (2) WEEKS PREVIOUS). I HAVE REPLACED THE EGR VALVE AND SENSOR A TOTAL OF (4) TIMES, DUE TO BEING TOLD THAT THIS IS THE CAUSE OF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEING ON-WHEN IT BEGAN TO BLINK LAST MAY OF 2005, I WAS TOLD BY THE SERVICE MANAGER OF THE LOCAL MADZA DEALERSHIP 30+ MILES AWAY FROM WHERE I RESIDE, THAT HE HAD NO CLUE AS TO WHAT IT MEANS WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS. THAT PARTICULAR REPAIR BILL COST ME ALMOST $900. I AM SO COMPLETELY FRUSTRATED AND ANGRY TO THE POINT OF TEARS. I HAVE KEPT UP THE SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE, THE BEST TIRES, ETC. AND STILL PROBLEMS. I HAVE SPENT SO MUCH MONEY TRYING TO KEEP THIS CAR IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, AS WELL AS A SAFE MODE OF TRANSPORTATION FOR MY SELF AND MY LITTLE BROTHER, WHO HAS SPECIAL MEDICAL NEEDS THAT REQUIRE BEING SEEN BY MEDICAL SERVICES PROVIDERS THAT ARE LOCATED OVER 200 MILES FROM WHERE WE RESIDE. WITH IT BEING A PRE-OWNED CAR, ON THE ADVICE OF OTHERS, I PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY A FEW DAYS AFTER PURCHASING THE CAR, FROM THE MADZA DEALERSHIP FOR $900, THAT WAS COMPLETELY WORTHLESS-THE WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED AND I AM STILL PAYING ON IT. *JB
ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN. COMPUTER INDICATES KNOCK SENOR, BUT NO ENGINE PROBLEM. LIGHT CAME ON AFTER WE BEGAN USING 87 OCTANE INSTEAD OF MID OR PREMIUM GRADE. WAS ADVISED IT IS A BAD KNOCK SENSOR AND THERE IS A TSB AND REPAIR KIT TO FIX PROBLEM. MAZDA HAS APPARENTLY CHANGED THE KNOCK SENSOR (DUE TO ONGOING PROBLEMS). *JB
WHILE DRIVING ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY AT 60 MILES PER HOUR THE TCS LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR COMPLETELY LOST POWER. IT HAD TO BE RESTARTED IN NEUTRAL WHILE DRIVING IN THE LANE OF TRAFFIC CAUSING CARS BEHIND US TO SWITCH LANES TO AVOID HITTING US. THIS OCCURRED FOUR TIMES IN A THIRTY FIVE MINUTE DRIVE TO OUR DESTINATION. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST INCIDENT AND YES, ONLY APPROXIMATELY 5 WEEKS AGO I BROUGHT MY CAR IN FOR SERVICE AT THE DEALERSHIP (JOYCE MAZDA IN NEW JERSEY ) TO HAVE THIS CORRECTED AND SPENT NINE HUNDRED DOLLARS TO HAVE THIS FIXED (APPARANTL, IT WAS NOT FIXED). I HAVE THE JOB ORDER AND RECEIPT THAT STATES THIS OCCURED BEFORE. AS THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM BY MAZDA AND APPARANTLY THEY HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO FIX IT, THEY ARE BEING FRAUDULANT STATING IT IS FIXED WHILE CHARGING CUSTOMERS A SUBSTANTIAL AMOUNT OF MONEY AND ALLOWING CUSTOMERS TO CONTINUE TO DRIVE AN UNSAFE VEHICLE. ARE THEY WAITING FOR PEOPLE TO BE KILLED BEFORE THIS IS CORRECTED? PLEASE ADDRESS THIS ISSUE BEFORE THERE ARE DEATHS AND NOT ONLY TO MAZDA OWNERS BUT THE RISK TO OTHERS ON HIGHWAYS WHO HAVE NO IDEA THE CAR INFRONT OF THEM HAS GONE FROM 60 TO 0.*AK
I BOUGHT MY CAR IN NOV 2002, AT 60,000 MILES. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CONTINUALLY STAYS ON. THE CAR RUNS ROUGH AND HAS POOR ACCERLATION. WE HAVE IT IN THE SHOP 4 TIMES, AND THATS ONLY FOR THIS YEAR. WE'VE REPLACED 3 O2 SENSORS, THE AIR INDUCTION HOSE. THE SERVICER HAS ALSO CLEANED THE EGR VALVE PORT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL STAY OFF FOR 2 OR 3 WEEKS AND THEN IT'S ON AGAIN. I'M VERY UNSATISFIED WITH MAZDA.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. VEHICLE HAD ONLY 50,551 MILES (1999 MAZDA MILLENIA). DEALER SAID VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION-$3175, OXYGEN SENSOR$345, CAM POSITION SENSOR AND O RING-$850. VEHICLE MILEAGE WARRANTY ENDED AT 50,000 MILES. DEALER REFUSED TO EXTEND WARRANTY FOR REPAIR. *AK
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CONTIUES TO COME ON. BROUGHT TO DEALER ON 5 OCCASSIONS AND PROBLEM NEVER PROPERLY IDENTIFIED. ENGINE BLEW PISTON ROD AFTER 34K MILES
WHILE TRAVELING OUT OF STATE TWO TIRES BLEW OUT. TIRE DEALER STATED THAT VEHICLE WAS SOLD WITH THE WRONG TYPE OF TIRES. *AK
ENGINE LIGHT CONTIUOUSLY STAYS ON. WHILE SLOWING DOWN OR SHIFTING INTO THE DRIVE GEAR VEHICLE WILL JERK VERY HARD. THIS IS CAUSED BY TRANSMISSION FAILURE.*AK
DEFECTIVE OXYGEN SENSORS AFTER ONLY 70,000 MILES. *JB
WHILE DRIVING 40 - 50 MPH, VEHICLE HESITATED AND JERKED BACK AND FORTH. THE VEHICLE JERKED WHILE IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. DELAYED SHIFTS WHEN ACCELERATING TO PASS. THERE WAS ALSO A GRINDING NOISE. DEALER REMOVED AND REPLACED DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION. HOWEVER NOISE AND JERKING STILL PERSISTED. ALSO THE TRUNK RELEASE AND FUEL BUTTON WERE INOPERATIVE. THE DOOR MOLDING NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. DEALER WANTED TO REPLACE THE O2 SENSOR AND SOLENOID AND THE DOOR PANEL, TRUNK RELEASE AND FUEL BUTTON WERE STILL INOPERATIVE AFTER BEING REPLACED. CONSUMER NEVER RECEIVED CALL BACK REGARDING PARTS. VEHICLE WAS TRADED IN. *TT *JB
WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN OVER BUMPS DOWNHILL THE TRANSMISSION WOULD JUMP OUT OF GEAR. *NLM *NLM
WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE WOULD HESITATE/ JERK AND THEN ACCELERATE BY ITSELF. DEALER CONTACTED. *AK
WHILE PARKED IN DRIVEWAY VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. DEALER CONTACTED. *AK
THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED IN MARCH 29, 2000 WITH 3,636 MILES ON IT. WITH LESS THAN 20K MILES, THE TREAD SEPARATED ON THE LEFT FRONT TIRE ON FRIDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2000. ON FEBRUARY 9, 2001, I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN TO BE SERVICED, INCLUDING A TIRE ROTATION AND BALANCE, 4-WHEEL ALIGNMENT. WHEN I WENT TO PICK UP THE CAR, THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE TREAD HAD SEPARATED AND THE TECHNICIAN HAD PLACED THE SPARE ON THE VEHICLE AND ADVISED THAT I NEEDED A NEW TIRE. WHEN I TOLD HIM IT WAS THE SECOND TIRE IN LESS THAN A YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, HE SAID I NEEDED TO CONTACT THE MANUFACTURER. ON FRIDAY, AUGUST 10, 2001, I HAD A THIRD OF THE ORIGINAL TIRES TREAD SEPARATE ON THE LEFT FRONT SIDE JUST 10K MILES AFTER MY ALIGNMENT. NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THE TIRES TO WEAR EXCESSIVELY ON THE INSIDE AND SEPARATE. WHEN I TOOK THE CAR IN TO REPLACE THAT TIRE, THE TIRE DEALER INFORMED ME THAT THE LAST OF THE ORIGINAL TIRES WAS WEARING AND VERY SUSCEPTIBLE TO THE SAME TYPE OF TREAD SEPARATION. BY THE END OF THE DAY TOMORROW, I WILL HAVE SPENT OVER $600 TO PURCHASE NEW TIRES FOR A VEHICLE THAT HAS LESS THAN 31K MILES ON IT. PLEASE HELP! (TIRESIZE: 215/50R17)
ENGINE CHECK LIGHT HAS COME ON 4 TIMES SINCE 4/2000. CAR DOES NOT RIDE SMOOTHLY HESISTATION UPON ACCELERATION . CAR HAS HAD COMPUTER RELPLACED ETC WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. REPORTED AS LEMON TO MAZDA AND ATTORNEY GENERAL
TIRE SIZE 215/50R17. MOUNTED ON A MAZDA, MILLENEUM 1999.BOTH FRONT TIRES HAD TREAD SEPARATION. CONTACTED DEALER, AND DEALER WAS WILLING TO PAY BACK ONLY 50% OF TIRE COST.*AK DUNLOP SPORTS 4000 TIRES. *SLC
MY MAIN COMPLAINT IS I HAVE DEFECTIVE DUNLOP TIRES ON MY CAR WHICH I BELIEVE ARE A SAFEY PROBLEM. I'M AM WONDERING IF THIS TIRE HAS A HISORY OF BEING DEFECTIVE, THAT IS WHY I AM REPORTING IT. DUNLOP WILL NOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PROBLEM EXCEPT CREDIT ME THE DIFFERANCE ON TIRE THE TREAD WEAR. THE SAFETY, COST AND INCONVENIENCE IS MY PROBLEM. I HAVE HAD TWO TIRES ON THE FRONT OF MY CAR WITHIN 3,500 MILES OF EACH OTHER DEVELOP THE SAME IDENTICAL PROBLEM, A BLISTER ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE. I TALKED WITH A DUNLOP SUPERVISOR AT LENGTH ABOUT THIS PROBLEM AND HE TOLD ME THAT DUNLOP GAVE ME A TIRE FREE OF COST THE FIRST TIME (WHICH WAS TRUE) AND THEY WOULD ONLY ALLOW ME THE TREAD WEAR DIFFERENCE THIS TIME BUT LATER GAVE ME 40% OFF THE PRICE ON THE NEW TIRE. THE FIRST TIRE PROBLEM COST ME $34.73 AND THIS SECOND TIRE COST ME $173.23. I DON'T THINK THIS IS A FAIR RESOLUTION FOR THIS DUNLOP TIRE PROBLEM AND SEEK YOUR HELP TO RESOLVE IT. SEARS ORDERED THE SECOND REPLACEMENT TIRE ON 2/17/01. THE NEW TIRE WAS RECEIVED BY SEARS ON 3/8/01. I THEN WENT TO SEARS ON 3/9/01 TO HAVE THE TIRE MOUNTED AND THIS IS WHERE PROBLEM BEGAN. I TOLD THE SEARS MANAGER WHAT HAD HAPPENED BEFORE AND THAT I WOULD EXPECT THE SAME TREATMENT THIS TIME. THE SEARS MANAGER GATHERED ALL THE INFORMATION FROM MY CAR AND CAR'S TIRE AND WENT TO HIS COMPUTER AN SAID IT WOULD COST ME $203.28 TO REPLACE THIS TIRE. I SAID THERE MUST BE SOME MISTAKE AND SHOWED HIM THE PAPERWORK FROM BEFORE. THE SEARS MANAGER SAID ALL I WAS ENTITLED TO UNDER THE DUNLOP TIRE WARRENTY WAS THE PRORATION OF THE TIRE TREAD WEAR WHICH WAS 25% OF THE PRICE OF THE NEW TIRE. HOWEVER THE PRICE OF THIS NEW TIRE INCREASED FROM $143.99 FOR THE FREE TIRE TO $208.99 FOR THE PRORATED TIRE. THE DIFFERENCE IN TIRE COST IS A PROBLEM BUT I BELIEVE A BIGGER PROBLEM IS THAT DUNLOP HAS A DEFECTIVE TIRE AND IT SHOULD BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS RESOLVED.*AK (TIRESIZE: P2155OV17)
WHILE TRAVELING 25MPH HOOD POPPED OPEN UNEXPECTEDLY. HOOD HINGES WERE BENT DUE TO OPENING, AND THE CONSUMER HAD TO TIE HOOD TO LATCH TO CLOSE IT. NO PRIOR WARNINGS OR LIGHTS BEFORE HOOD OPENED. *AK
AIR CONDITIONER FAN MAKES NOISE, DEALER REPLACED FAN AND BLOWER, DEALER CLEANED LEAVES OUT OF BLOWER. *SLC
FRONT BUMPER CRACKED, DEALER SERVICE MANAGER, MICHAEL, STATED THAT THIS PROBLEM WAS COMMON WITH MILLENIA AND 626 MODELS. NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, BUT WILL COST $700 TO REPAIR. *AK
WANT TO KNOW IF THE PROBLEM IS REALLY A PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL GOING DOWN TO THE FLOOR WHEN A GREAT DEAL OF PRESSURE IS APPLIED, WHEN STOPPED. *AK
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
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