2015 Mercedes-Benz C200

From 2000 through 2017, Takata produced millions of air bag inflators using two types of phase-stabilized ammonium nitrate ("PSAN") propellant -- propellant 2004 and propellant 2004L. After prolonged exposure to high temperature cycles and humidity, inflators using propellant 2004 can degrade, causing the propellant to burn too quickly when ignited. The rapid burning can cause the inflator to rupture during deployment, potentially causing serious or even fatal injury to vehicle occupants. See 2016 Blomquist Report at www.nhtsa.gov/sites/nhtsa.gov/files/documents/expert_report-hrblomquist.pdf.Consequently, all frontal inflators using propellant 2004 that do not contain a "desiccant" (a substance that traps and holds moisture) in US vehicles are under recall. These "non-desiccated" inflators either have been or are required to be replaced.In some cases, the remedy part for these recalled inflators was, or will be, an inflator using either propellant 2004 or 2004L that does contain a desiccant. None of these "desiccated" remedy parts (which were installed in older model year vehicles) are currently under recall for a degradation concern. Certain subsets of desiccated PSAN inflators using propellant 2004 for use as original equipment, however, have been recalled for a degradation concern. All Takata inflators produced with propellant 2004L contain desiccant, and none of these desiccated inflators using propellant 2004L are under recall for a degradation concern. There have been no reported field ruptures in any non-recalled desiccated PSAN inflators.It is understood that desiccants fully saturate at some threshold, at which point any additional moisture will not be captured. This means the degradation process observed in non-desiccated inflators using propellant 2004 may also occur in non-recalled desiccated inflators using propellant 2004, assuming additional moisture enters the inflator and high temperature cycling occurs. Based on available information, desiccant saturation can occur within the first five years in the worst environments, and the time required for full saturation is affected by multiple factors. While no present safety risk has been identified, further work is needed to evaluate the future risk of non-recalled desiccated inflators using propellant 2004.Three entities -- Takata (now known as TK Global), the Independent Testing Coalition, and Exponent -- have been studying the long-term behavior of Takata desiccated PSAN inflators using propellant 2004L (as well as 2004) in the presence of moisture and temperature cycling. The research efforts, which include development of predictive modeling techniques and field sample analysis, are ongoing. To date, none of the researchers have identified field evidence showing that propellant 2004L is undergoing a degradation process that leads to aggressive deployment and potential rupture. However, the time in service of such inflators remains short compared to that of the inflators using propellant 2004. Further study is needed to assess the long-term safety of desiccated inflators using propellant 2004L.The Office of Defects Investigation is opening this investigation to examine whether a safety defect related to propellant degradation exists in non-recalled desiccated PSAN frontal inflators manufactured by Takata. This investigation will require extensive information on Takata production processes and surveys of inflators in the field. Lists of recall actions that may have used desiccated PSAN inflators as remedy parts, as well as the makes and models originally manufactured with them, is available with the downloadable version of this document (see nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=EA21002 -- note this information is subject to change/revision as the investigation proceeds). This investigation does not supersede EA15-001, which remains open.

I am reporting a potential safety defect involving the locking/key-detection system in my 2015 Mercedes-Benz C300. On [XXX], at approximately [XXX] p.m. in Coral Ridge, Fort Lauderdale, I secured my young son in his car seat. My purse, containing the key fob, and my phone were on the front passenger seat. I closed the door and walked around to the driver's side. The vehicle had locked all doors by itself. I did not press the lock button or intentionally lock the vehicle. There were no warning lights, messages, alerts, or other symptoms beforehand. My [XXX] son was trapped inside the locked vehicle, and both my key and phone were also inside, leaving me unable to access him or call for help. I flagged down a passing car, and we ultimately had to break a window to reach him. The vehicle has not been inspected by Mercedes-Benz, a dealer, police, insurance, or an independent service center, and the issue has not been reproduced or confirmed. After replacing the window, I have not attempted to recreate the incident because of the safety risk. The vehicle remains available for inspection upon request. I am concerned that the vehicle can lock with the key fob inside the passenger side, creating a potentially serious risk if a child or vulnerable occupant is trapped inside, particularly in hot weather or where immediate assistance is unavailable. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

NHTSA ID

11761726

Incident

Apr 18, 2026

I am a mechanic speaking on the behalf of a customer; this customer is experiencing problems with her rear subframe. The older generation of her car has a famous issue with rear subframe rusting out. Her car uses an updated part number that is almost identical in construction to the failure prone part that was famous for rusting out, although they are NOT the same number. The failure prone number is 2123503805 or 2043500141, they are installed on the older chassis, w204, w212, etc. The part that is in THIS vehicle is 2123503605, the construction is almost identical to the part numbers listed for the w212 and w204 provided above. There is no drainage holes provided for water that has entered through rain or any other detritus that will permeate on the road's surfaces through natural progression of the vehicle's life, like on the older chassis. The material used is steel with paint on the outside instead of some sort of encapsulation that coats both inside and outside surfaces. And because these don't have any sort of ability to evacuate any substances, they are interacting with unprotected metal and will react into rust. This failure can lead to misalignment at the very minimum of problems, at the worst, it can cause control arms falling off, causing wheel hub assemblies to fall off, this shouldn't have to be explained but this can cause major injury or death, not only to the passengers to the vehicle, but to others who share the misfortune of being at the wrong place at the wrong time. And, the understanding of these not being the SAME part shouldn't warrant the extension of the recall to these particular vehicles, but the failures are similar to what was seen before on other older vehicles and should warrant further investigation. With hope, this could just be an isolated incident, but since patterns are uncanny, this should be investigated with some interest to the public wellbeing. Cordially Naseam F. Samaan Licensed Virginia State Inspector. Sanko Auto Care

NHTSA ID

11760266

Incident

Aug 19, 2026

Vehicle rear subframe has rusted through, causing vehicle to swerve upon braking, making the car unsafe to drive for the occupant, other vehicles on the road, and pedestrians. Mercedes dealer has advised that subframe has rusted through, requires replacement. The car will be brought to the dealer for repair (at owner's expense) by Friday, 8/28/2026. We can request that the dealer provide us with the subframe - please advise. The vehicle provided no warning indications.

NHTSA ID

11759222

Incident

Jul 29, 2026

An inspection of my vehicle on August 6, 2026 disclosed that the rear subframe has corrosion, including perforation. It is my understanding that this problem has been identified in mine and many other Mercedes-Benz models, and that Mercedes-Benz has offered an extended warranty to replace the subframe in certain of these models, but my model for the year it was manufactured was not included. I was not made aware of this potential problem by Mercedes-Benz, and they are not offering an extended warranty to resolve this serious safety issue.

NHTSA ID

11757917

Incident

Aug 6, 2026

During a mandatory Virginia State Safety Inspection, the vehicle failed due to severe structural corrosion and perforation of the rear subframe. Because these components notoriously corrode from the inside out, the fact that the rust is externally visible and structurally failing indicates an advanced, catastrophic material breakdown.The rear subframe serves as the foundational load-bearing anchor for the rear suspension and control arms. This level of structural rot poses an immediate, severe safety hazard. Had the failure occurred while driving at highway speeds rather than being caught during an inspection, the suspension mounts could have catastrophically detached, causing a sudden loss of vehicle control, unpredictable fishtailing, and an imminent crash risk. There are absolutely no dashboard warning lights, diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), or driving indicators to alert the driver of this structural degradation. The defect remains entirely hidden until the metal physically fractures or the vehicle fails a professional inspection. Furthermore, because neighboring states (such as Maryland) do not mandate annual safety inspections, this severe structural failure will go entirely unnoticed by thousands of drivers until a catastrophic on-road failure occurs. Mercedes-Benz has already explicitly acknowledged this exact engineering and material defect in the preceding W204 generation (C-Class models up to 2015), subsequently issuing a 20-year, unlimited-mileage extended warranty for rear subframe corrosion. However, Mercedes-Benz has arbitrarily excluded my 2015 W205 C-Class model from this coverage, despite the vehicle employing a highly similar subframe design that suffers from the exact same moisture-trapping and premature rotting failure mechanism. This represents an unaddressed, systemic manufacturing defect that poses an immediate risk to public safety. I’ve included two photos showing holes in the subframe from rusting inside out.

NHTSA ID

11754785

Incident

Feb 27, 2026

Car was pulling to one side. Replaced the front routers and breaks. Problem still persisted. After more investigating the subframe was found to be rusting out, Mercedes of New London CT said it was unsafe to drive. But allowed my daughter to drive it home. This car was purchased it brand new from Mercedes=Benz of Warwick. The car was garaged all it life. This should not happen. They have had recalls and problems with this model just not this one. My concern is the safety of those driving this model clearly the problem was not solved. Please make Mercedes notify people driving this model, that there is a known subframe corrosion issue.

NHTSA ID

11750145

Incident

May 25, 2026

My 2015 C300 W205 failed at its state inspection today due to a rusted through rear subframe. I understand that the W204 warranty on this was extended to 20 years/unlimited miles but the W205 was not. I have contacted Mercedes customer care for a potential goodwill repair since this seems to be a known issue with class actions pending. This should not be failing and it’s unclear why Mercedes did not include all models with the same design in its extended warranty. The costs could be up to $7k.

NHTSA ID

11741830

Incident

Jun 1, 2026

The car would seem to shift when stopping , when tires were removed the rear subframe had rusted out completely, this is a major safety issue and could cause loss of control of the vehicle. The failure is the same as what the w204s experienced but they’re being fixed at the cost of Mercedes

NHTSA ID

11738382

Incident

May 17, 2026

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.