2001 Mercedes-Benz CL600

R HEADLIGHT TURN SIGNAL WILL NOT WORK (REST OF HEADLIGHT WORKS) RANDOMLY FLASH CHECK DIFFERENT LIGHTS AND ALL WORK. RANDOM ISSUES WITH FRONT WINDOWS. ABC LIGHT. CAR HAS LESS THAN 54,000 MILES ON IT. MERCEDES TOLD ME ALL RECALLS HAVE BEEN CONSIDERED FIXED AND I SHOULDN'T HAVE PURCHASED THE CAR IF I DIDN'T WANT TO SPEND THE MONEY TO FIX IT. NOW IT HAS THROWN THE V-BELT. I HAVE READ THE FORUMS ABOUT THE MANY ISSUES AND THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE ANY ASSISTANCE OFFERED TO REMEDY THESE ISSUES. WHEN YOU SPEND A LOT OF MONEY ON A VEHICLE YOU WOULD THINK IT WOULD BE DEPENDABLE FOR A WHILE WITHOUT HAVING TO PUT THOUSANDS MORE INTO IT. I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE REGULAR MAINTENANCE AND UPKEEP. THIS IS A GREAT CAR MINUS THE MANY ISSUES.

NHTSA ID

10779507

Incident

May 10, 2014

Mileage

44,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL600. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER FAILED TO WORK AND THE GAUGES INTERMITTENTLY SHORTED OUT. THE VEHICLE RAN OUT OF FUEL DUE TO THE FUEL GAUGE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REFUEL THE VEHICLE. WHILE TRAVELING OVER UNLEVELED LAND OR A BUMPY ROAD, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FLICKERED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A REPAIR SHOP AND THE MECHANIC REPAIRED THE VEHICLE WITH A HOSE KIT; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS AN INTERMITTENT LEAK OCCURRING UNDER THE HOOD. THE CONTACT HAD TO FILL THE HYDRAULIC FLUID AND PRESS A BUTTON TO RAISE THE CHASSIS AS AN INTERIM REPAIR FOR THE LEAK. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT WAS NOT ABLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE DUE TO THE FAILURES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 04V228000 (SUSPENSION). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 59,000.

NHTSA ID

10659246

Incident

Jul 20, 2014

Mileage

59,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL600. THE CONTACT STATED THAT FLAMES APPEARED FROM THE HOOD OF THE VEHICLE WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT THE POWER BOOSTER LINE, EVAPORATION HOSE, AND HYDRAULIC HOSE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V252000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE AND STRUCTURE). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 148,641.

NHTSA ID

10597627

Incident

Apr 19, 2014

Mileage

148,641 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL 600. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ABC (ACTIVE BODY CONTROL) SENSOR LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED BY THE LOCAL DEALER THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE NHTSA CAMPAIGN 04V228000(SUSPENSION). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 77,306. *TR

NHTSA ID

10555449

Incident

Nov 25, 2013

Mileage

77,306 mi

SMALL FIRE STARTED UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WHEN GETTING OFF THE EXPRESSWAY AFTER TRAVELING ABOUT 12 MILES. STARTED TO SEE SMOKE WHILE STOPPED AT A LIGHT. SAW SMALL FLAMES WHEN I STOPPED TO LOOK FOR SOURCE OF SMOKE. RECENT REPAIRS MADE HEATER CORE REPLACED. ALSO WATER PUMP REPLACED. ALSO UPPER RADIATOR HOSE REPLACED. *TR

NHTSA ID

10521098

Incident

Jun 20, 2013

Mileage

165,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL-600. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH THE ABC LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO ADVISED HIM THE HYDRAULIC SUSPENSION LINE FRACTURED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. APPROXIMATELY TWO DAYS LATER WITH THE VEHICLE IN IDLE MODE, HE HEARD A LOUD BURST. THE VEHICLE WAS LATER TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED ANOTHER HYDRAULIC SUSPENSION LINE FRACTURED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND ADVISED HIM THAT THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 04V228000 (SUSPENSION), BUT WAS REPAIRED IN 2005. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WAS APPROXIMATELY 179,000. UPDATED 3/20/13 *CN

NHTSA ID

10492850

Incident

Jan 8, 2013

Mileage

179,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL600. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AT ENGINE STARTUP, THE SRS WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING 25-30 MPH, THE ABC WARNING LIGHT AND BOTH TURNING SIGNALS ILLUMINATED. IN ADDITION, THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW FAILED TO WORK PROPERLY.THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT BLACK SMOKE EMITTED FROM THE EXHAUST FOLLOWED BY A LOUD EXPLOSION. THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR FAILED TO OPEN WITH THE ELECTRONIC KEY-LESS REMOTE AND THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR PANEL DETACHED WHEN THE DOOR WAS CLOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE DEALER CONFIRMED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIR BAGS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED ALONG WITH THE MODULE FOR THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND PROVIDED NO ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 65,700. UPDATED 10/24/12 *CN UPDATED 11/9/2012 *JS

NHTSA ID

10466780

Incident

Jun 12, 2012

Mileage

65,700 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ CL 600. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF, A FIRE ERUPTED FROM THE DASH BOARD AREA. THE FIRE WAS EXTINGUISHED. A FIRE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED BUT DENIED ANY ASSISTANCE WITH REPAIRS TO THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT DID NOT CONFIRM THE CAUSE OF THE FIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

NHTSA ID

10425555

Incident

Sep 1, 2011

Mileage

100,000 mi

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint Washer fluid system leaks Cause Various possible causes: 1. Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.