2001 Mercedes-Benz E430

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES-BENZ E430. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE SHOCK SPRING FOR THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE WHEEL DETACHED FROM THE VEHICLE AND LANDED IN THE ROAD. THE CONTACT PULLED OVER AT A FUEL STATION AND HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT CORROSION MAY HAVE CAUSED THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 137,000.

NHTSA ID

11242017

Incident

Jul 28, 2019

Mileage

137,000 mi

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH KEEPS BREAKING CAUSING VEHICLE TO HAVE NO ILLUMINATION FOR BRAKING

NHTSA ID

11032752

Incident

Oct 2, 2017

Mileage

10 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES-BENZ E430. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 80 MPH, THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AND CURTAIN AIR BAGS SUDDENLY DEPLOYED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FRONT PASSENGER SUSTAINED INJURIES TO THE RIGHT SHOULDER AND SIDE, WHICH DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 180,000.

NHTSA ID

10899101

Incident

Aug 28, 2016

Mileage

180,000 mi

WHILE TRAVELING DOWN A HIGHWAY, I WAS APPROACHING A STOPLIGHT. WHILE SLOWING DOWN TO TRAFFIC, GOING AROUND 20MPH, MY ENGINE DIED WITHOUT WARNING, OVER-HEATING, OR ANYTHING INDICATION. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO RE-START THE CAR, THE ENGINE WOULD ONLY TURN, BUT NO IGNITION. I WAITED NEARLY 20 MINUTES OF TRYING TO RESTART THE CAR, WHEN IT FINALLY DID IGNITE AND START. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE HOME (ABOUT 15 MINUTES) WHERE IT THEN DIED AGAIN, JUST OUTSIDE MY PARKING SPACE. THE CAR WAS CHECKED FOR INDICATION CODES AND THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CAME UP AS "MALFUNCTION". *TR

NHTSA ID

10550539

Incident

Oct 30, 2013

Mileage

182,348 mi

THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER BEGAN VERY LIGHTLY RATTLING AT LOW SPEEDS ONLY INTERMITTENTLY AT ONLY AROUND 50000 MILES. IT NOW HAS APPROX. 60000 MILES ON IT AND HAS A LOUD NOTICEABLE RATTLE WHICH IS ALSO CAUSING VIBRATION IN THE CAR AND HAS MADE THE HARD SHIFTING FROM FIRST GEAR IN THE TRANSMISSION WORSE AND OF COURSE IT IS NOW "OUT OF WARRANTY" WHEN IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND I WILL HAVE TO PAY THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO REPLACE A PART THAT SHOULD LAST A LOT LONGER ESPECIALLY FOR A VEHICLE THAT IS PRISTINE AND GARAGE KEPT. HOPEFULLY THE OEM REMANUFACTURED DEALER PART WONT DIE IN ANOTHER 50,000 MILES. AS A NOTE, MERCEDES SHOULD NOT SAY THE TRANSMISSION FLUID IS LIFETIME BECAUSE IT DEFINITELY IS NOT AND OWNERS WHO OBEY THE LIFETIME FLUID RECOMMENDATION WILL HAVE TRANSMISSION ISSUES SOONER OR LATER. I CAN ONLY ASSUME MY TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS ON THIS MODEL IS DUE TO THE FLUID AND WILL BE HAVING IT REPLACED. ALSO, THE DIGITAL INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HAS MALFUNCTIONING TEMPERATURE AND TIME GAUGES AND HAS BURNED OUT LEDS IN THE SPEEDOMETER AREA, WHICH REQUIRES A ~$1,500 COMPLETE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPLACEMENT AS ADVISED. THIS OCCURRED AT ABOUT 40,000 MILES. MANY OWNERS HAVE THIS ISSUE AND A RECALL WAS ISSUED FOR OTHER MODELS BUT NOT THIS MODEL EVEN THOUGH IT IS COMMON. *TR

NHTSA ID

10456477

Incident

Dec 1, 2009

Mileage

50,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES BENZ E430. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH THE SIDE AIR BAGS FOR THE FRONT AND REAR SEATS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE DEPLOYED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING NOR WAS IT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNAVAILABLE.

NHTSA ID

10427164

Incident

Sep 24, 2011

I WAS TRAVELING 65 MPH ON INTERSTATE ROUTE 70 WHEN THE RIGHT FRONT SUSPENSION COIL SPRING PERCH FAILED AND BROKE OFF OF MY 2001 MERCEDES E430 SEDAN (W210 BODY STYLE), CAUSING THE HIGH PRESSURE SUSPENSION COIL SPRING TO DISMOUNT AND DRAG ALONG THE UNDERSIDE OF MY VEHICLE. THE DISMOUNTED FRONT RIGHT COIL SPRING CAUSED THE RIGHT FRONT END OF MY VEHICLE TO COLLAPSE WHILE TRAVELING 65 MPH ON A BUSY INTERSTATE (CARS IN FRONT, BEHIND, AND ALONGSIDE MY VEHICLE). I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE MY VEHICLE TO A SAFE SPOT WHERE UPON INSPECTION, I NOTICED THAT THE FRONT RIGHT COIL SPRING WAS LITERALLY RESTING ON THE GROUND. THE FRONT RIGHT END OF MY 2001 MERCEDES E430 WAS COLLAPSED SO BADLY THAT TURNING THE VEHICLE CAUSED THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE TO RUB ALONG THE FRONT RIGHT FENDER AND THE ENTIRE VEHICLE WAS DANGEROUSLY UNBALANCED, WITH CONTROL BEING LIMITED AT BEST. UPON LATER INSPECTION BY A CERTIFIED MECHANIC, IT WAS DISCLOSED THAT THE FRONT COIL SPRING PERCH HAD RUSTED OUT AND UPON FURTHER RESEARCH, MERCEDES USA IS AWARE OF THIS TYPE OF FAILURE (MANUFACTURING DEFECT -WEAK WELD POINTS ACCOMPANIED BY CORROSION) BUT CURRENTLY DOES NOT HAVE AN ACTIVE RECALL PROGRAM IN THE US BUT THERE IS A RECALL IN CANADA FOR THIS SAME PROBLEM (NOT SURE WHY?). OVERALL THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION (LIMITED CONTROL AT HIGH SPEEDS, HIGH PRESSURE COIL SPRINGS BECOMING LOOSE DUE TO WEAK / CORRODING COIL SPRING PERCH MOUNTS, DISLOCATED VEHICLE PARTS, LIMITED VEHICLE CONTROL, ETC..). I CONSIDER MYSELF VERY FORTUNATE FOR NOT HAVING SUSTAINED SERIOUS INJURY AND NOT TO HAVE CAUSED INJURY TO OTHERS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10316277

Incident

Mar 2, 2010

Mileage

119,698 mi

MY 2001 MERCEDES BENZ E430 SLIPS OUT OF GEAR FOR NO REASON WHILE DRIVING. THIS OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY AND WITH NO WARNING . IT OCCURS ALMOST EVERY DAY AND IN ORDER TO RE-ENGAGE THE DRIVE GEAR I HAVE TO STOP THE CAR, PUT GEARS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL AND THEN BACK INTO DRIVE, SOMETIME DURING THIS OPERATION SEVERAL TIMES . I CONTACTED A MERCEDES SPECIALIST AND HE SHOWED ME THE PROBLEM. APPARENTLY THE SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS INTO THE ELECTRONICS OF THE TRANSMISSION AND IS ACTUALLY DRAWN UP THE WIRING AND INTO THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE LOCATED ON THE TOP OF THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. I HAVE BEEN PERSONALLY SHOWN THE FLUID AND WAS VERY SURPRISED THAT THIS WAS POSSIBLE, BUT APPARENTLY THE FLUID CONTAINS METALLIC ELEMENTS WHICH ARE AFFECTED BY THE ELECTRICAL CHARGE IN THE WIRING AND ACTUALLY PULL THE FLUID UP INTO THE CONTROL UNIT..THE FIX IS INSTALLING A SPECIAL PLATE INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION TO STOP THE HYDRAULIC FLUID FROM SEEPING INTO THE ELECTRONICS, THIS ALSO ENTAILS REPLACING FLUIDS AND CLEANING THE ELECTRONIC WIRING AND COMPONENTS. REPAIR COST QUOTED IS ABOUT $900. APPARENTLY MERCEDES IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND I WAS TOLD THAT THIS PROBLEM OCCURS IN MANY MERCEDES AUTOS INCLUDING E CLASS AND CLK CLASS WITH THIS TYPE OF TRANSMISSION. AS OF THIS WRITING I HAVE NOT MADE ANY REPAIRS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10260264

Incident

Nov 1, 2008

Mileage

22,000 mi

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).