2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 Problems

takata airbags- called Mercedes Benz of draper- says it is not on their list???

The contact owns a 2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK350. The contact stated while driving 60 MPH, she heard an abnormal noise. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact was able to park on the side of the road and saw the front driver’s side headrest air bag had deployed independently. The contact stated that there was no injury sustained. The contact stated the instrument panel displayed an error message of the driver’s and passenger’s side Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) had malfunctioned. The contact towed the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with the seat wiring harness had malfunctioned causing the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) to be illuminated. The contact was not aware of the repair needed on the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

I noticed fuel / gas smell from my vehicle. I looked up cause for this type of occurrence. I was referred to a recall bulletin for this particular cause - Recall Campaign #2013020002. My vehicle (VIN #) is not on the recall list. Both MB dealerships in my area state I would have to cover the cost to replace the Fuel Filter Flange. I am certain the Fuel Filter Flange is defective and should be listed in the recall. I pulled up the rear seat and removed the cover to expose the Fuel Filter Flange. There was gasoline on top of the Fuel Filter Flange. (I have documented with pictures).

After a fuel fill-up, I smell fuel inside the cabin and outside by the gas tank opening. This causes a constant stress..., what if there is a fire? I heard and read so many similar complains and concerns. This should constitute for a RECALL. What is the responsibility of NHTSA to the consumer's safety.

My kids and I went into a football game and when we came out I used the key fob to unlock the doors but the vehicle didn’t recognize my key fob when I tried to start it. There were no lights or warnings leading up to this incident. The dash didn’t say anything besides “remove key from ignition”. We were stranded for 5 hours before I had to have it towed. It cost roughly $2000 to have it repaired with no clear reason for why it happened. It was a censor on the steering column that was somehow deprogrammed while we were in the stadium and suddenly failed to recognize its own key fob once it was inserted into the ignition. The anti-theft security feature kicked in and I could not get the vehicle to respond or bypass the system and it left me and 4 children stranded in a very dangerous area for several hours with no information as to why this happened or how to avoid it in the future. The steering column locked up when the tow truck driver tried to load it and caused a significant amount of added expenses on to the repair costs and towing costs.

During a stop the car dives to the right. After removing the right rear tire the subframe is rusted and components are no longer connected to the sub frame

During a stop the car dives to the right. After removing the right rear tire the subframe is rusted and components are no longer connected to the sub frame

The contact owns a 2011 Mercedes Benz GLK350. The contact stated that while depressing the brake pedal, the vehicle failed to immediately stop, causing the braking distance to be extended. Additionally, the brake pedal was spongy while depressed. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer and was diagnosed that the brake lines had failed due to severe rust and corrosion. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted regarding the failure. The failure mileage was 120,000.

My kids and I went into a football game and when we came out I used the key fob to unlock the doors but the vehicle didn’t recognize my key fob when I tried to start it. There were no lights or warnings leading up to this incident. The dash didn’t say anything besides “remove key from ignition”. We were stranded for 5 hours before I had to have it towed. It cost roughly $2000 to have it repaired with no clear reason for why it happened. It was a censor on the steering column that was somehow deprogrammed while we were in the stadium and suddenly failed to recognize its own key fob once it was inserted into the ignition. The anti-theft security feature kicked in and I could not get the vehicle to respond or bypass the system and it left me and 4 children stranded in a very dangerous area for several hours with no information as to why this happened or how to avoid it in the future. The steering column locked up when the tow truck driver tried to load it and caused a significant amount of added expenses on to the repair costs and towing costs.

After inserting key - there is no response. Tried several times. FOB locks and unlocks the doors. After a couple of days - it started with no problem. A week later, we are having the same problem with no response after inserting the key in ignition switch. This troublesome to know that I cannot rely on the ignition switch working all the time.

The contact owns a 2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK350. The contact stated that on several occasions while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power and decelerated unintendedly. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a complaint was filed. The failure mileage was 125,000.

I'm having the same issues as described in Recall no. 12V557000. However when I called Mercedes they mentioned that my Vin wasn't part of that recall. I don't understand how can that be when my car is 2011-2012 glk350 model as described in recall and I smell gas, can see gas leaking and the flange where my fuel filter is cracked as well as the flange to the fuel pump side. This car as well as many other Mercedes have two separate flanges that are prone to crack and not just the fuel filter side but the fuel pump side as well. there's many forums where they all have complained about this issue. If you can smell gas, there's obviously fuel vapors leaking and not to the mentioned the physical leak that is landing everywhere you drive. This is a serious fire hazard and is extremely harmful to my kids and passengers.

I WAS DRIVING IN HIGHWAY WITH SPEED OF 60 MPH AND SUDDENLY THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW DROPPED DOWN AND DUE TO SUDDEN AIR COMING INSUDE, MY CAR WAS SHIFTED AND I DROVE TO NEAREST EXIT AND NO MATTER HOW HARD I TRIED, I WAS UNABLE TO PULLUP THE WINDOW AND TOOK IT TO MECHANIC AND HE NOTED HE HAS SEEN THIS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE AND THE REGULATOR SUDDENLY MALFUNCTIONS. THE COST IS ESTIMATED $1,000 TO FIX IT. I WOULD LIKE TO WARN THAT I AM A HIGHLY EXPERIENCED DRIVER, IF THIS INCIDENT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED TO A DRIVER WITH LESS EXPERIENCE, IT COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS. my insurance decuctible is $2000 and cost to fix it $1000

The contact owns a 2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK350. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle made an abnormal sound. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the frame was corroded and the rear subframe needed to be replaced. The vehicle was then towed to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that the rear subframe needed to be replaced. The dealer informed the contact that the dealer and the manufacturer would cover 50% each for the cost of the subframe replacement; however, the contact needed to pay as well for the replacement. The vehicle was not repaired and remained at the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

Headlight bulbs failed. Owners manual states that the low beam bulb on the driver's side can be replaced by simply removing back cover, inserting hand and removing and replacing bulb. However, this is fraudulent. Every mechanic and the Mercedes dealers state that the bumper and possibly fender must be removed to replace this SAFETY item. The bulb went out on a trip and could not be replaced even though the bulb was readily available and I purchased it at a Walmart but could not replace it. Even though the Walmart replaced bulbs, after I waited 2 hours they told me they could not do it. I took it to two mechanics and they said they "did not have time" since it required disassembly of the vehicle. The Mercedes dealership said they could not provide an estimate because it required substantial time and disassembly. Now I have a car that has a bulb out, it cannot be driven at night, and to replace the bulb it requires an appointment at Mercedes and apparently hundreds of dollars of expense for labor. Like windshield wipers, tires, etc, etc, this is obviously a CRITICAL SAFETY ITEM and Mercedes has committed fraud in its representation that the bulb can be owner replaced. MY CAR NOW IS A DANGER driving at night. The NHTSA has statutory responsibility for the safety of vehicles and the internet has endless entries about the difficulty of replacing the headlight bulbs on this vehicle. I pay taxes. Do something.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE, AND I HEARD A VERY LOUD BOOM FROM MY VEHICLE, FOLLOWED BY CRACKLING SOUND. MY SUNROOF SHATTERED AS WELL AS THE FIXED PIECE BETWEEN MY WINDSHIELD AND MOVING PANE OF SUNROOF. THE FOLLOWING DAY, I DROVE THE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD AN OBJECT STRUCK THE VEHICLE AND CAUSED THE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. THE FIRST PANE OF GLASS HAD A 1 IN DIAMETER HOLE WITH A STARBURST PATTERN AND THE SECOND PANE HAD VERY LITTLE VISIBLE DAMAGE TO IT OTHER THAN THE HUNDREDS OF CRACKS IN IT. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT WHY THE FIRST PANE OF GLASS THAT IS ANGLED OUTWARD TO THE ROAD IS NOT MADE OF SAFETY GLASS OR METAL AND WAS CONSTRUCTED OF TEMPERED GLASS. I WAS LUCKY THAT I HAD MY BLIND CLOSED AND THAT THE GLASS DID NOT SEPARATE FROM THE VEHICLE AND STRIKE ANY OF THE VEHICLES BEHIND ME. AS I TOLD THE GENTLEMEN AT THE DEALERSHIP, IF ROAD DEBRIS HITS MY VEHICLE I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO REPLACE A THIRD OF MY ROOF. ROCKS HAVE HIT MY WINDSHIELD AND CHIPPED IT, BUT FOR A ROCK TO HIT MY VEHICLE AND CAUSE SUCH EXTENSIVE DAMAGE IS POOR DESIGN OR QUALITY OF MANUFACTURING. *TR

During a stop the car dives to the right. After removing the right rear tire the subframe is rusted and components are no longer connected to the sub frame

I WAS DRIVING IN HIGHWAY WITH SPEED OF 60 MPH AND SUDDENLY THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW DROPPED DOWN AND DUE TO SUDDEN AIR COMING INSUDE, MY CAR WAS SHIFTED AND I DROVE TO NEAREST EXIT AND NO MATTER HOW HARD I TRIED, I WAS UNABLE TO PULLUP THE WINDOW AND TOOK IT TO MECHANIC AND HE NOTED HE HAS SEEN THIS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE AND THE REGULATOR SUDDENLY MALFUNCTIONS. THE COST IS ESTIMATED $1,000 TO FIX IT. I WOULD LIKE TO WARN THAT I AM A HIGHLY EXPERIENCED DRIVER, IF THIS INCIDENT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED TO A DRIVER WITH LESS EXPERIENCE, IT COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS. my insurance decuctible is $2000 and cost to fix it $1000

After inserting key - there is no response. Tried several times. FOB locks and unlocks the doors. After a couple of days - it started with no problem. A week later, we are having the same problem with no response after inserting the key in ignition switch. This troublesome to know that I cannot rely on the ignition switch working all the time.

TAKATA RECALL HAS STILL NOT CAME UP WITH A SOLUTION TO FIX THE AIRBAGS WHICH I FEEL IS A HAZARD WHILE DRIVING. THIS IS MY ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORTATO AND I DON'T FEEL MY FAMILY AND I ARE SAFE IN THIS VEHICLE. AFTER TRAVELING TO A DOCTORS APPOINTMENT, WHEN PUT THE KEY IN THE POSUTION TO CRANK VEHICLE THE STEERING WHEEL WOULD NO LONGER LET FOWN. STEERING WHEEL IS NOW STUCK IN THE UP POSITION. CAN'T LOWER THE STEERING COLUMN. WHICH MAKES IT NOW DIFFICULT THE STIR. ELECTRIC CONTROL LEVER WILL NOT WORK. BRAKE LIGHTS, SIGNAL LIGHTS LAMPS CONTINUALLY BURNS OUT BULBS WHILE IN MOTION , STATIONARY ACTUALLY AT ANYIME.

TAKATA INFLATORS HAVE NOT BEEN REPAIRED TOLD BY DEALERS THAT THESE AIRBAGS ARE DANGEROUS AND COULD CAUSE SEVERE INJURY TO PASSENGERS. TORK CONTROL UNIT OR TRANSMISSION IS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY FAULTY TRANS ON THE CAR PER DEALER HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED TOLD THERE WAS SEVERAL 2011 GLK 350 WITH THIS CONCERN MERCEDES IS TO REPAIR BUT HAS NOT.CAR IN MOTION WHEN OCCURS

TRANSMISSION JERKING PROBLEM I'VE HAD MY 2011 GLK350 AND JUST NOTICED THAT THE CAR JERKS NOTICEABLY ROUGHLY AND MADE A LOUDSY NOISE WHEN IN DRIVE MODE. IT HAPPENS BOTH AT LOW AND HIGH RPMS.

I'VE BEEN SMELLING GAS AN FUMES FIELD ABOUT 3 MONTHS AND NOTICED THATLAYELY IVE BEEN LOSING GAS AND MILEAGE AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT JUST BE OVER FLOW BUT IT'S GOTTEN WORSE.IM NOW HAVING TROUBLE GETTING MY CAR INTO THT RIGHT GEAR I CAN ONLY THINK THAT MY GAS AND TRANSMISSION IS FAULTERING SOMEHOW THOUGH I HAVEN'T TAKEN IT IN DUE TO MONEY ISSUES AT THIS TIME. MY STEERING COLUMN AND HANDLING SEEMS OUT OF ALIGNMENT COLUMN FEELS SHAKEN AND FAULTY AND DIFFICULT TO HANDLE AT TIMES AT OTHERS TIMES

LAST JANUARY MY PASSENGER SIDE REAR COIL SPRING BROKE IN HALF WHILE PARKED IN MY GARAGE. ON TUESDAY FEBRUARY 28, 2017 THE DRIVER SIDE REAR COIL SPRING BROKE IN HALF WHILE PARKED IN MY GARAGE. IN JANUARY 2016 I CONTACTED THE MERCEDES DEALER WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR AND ASKED IF THERE WAS A PROBLEM OR A RECALL. THEY STATED NO RECALL OR PROBLEM WITH THE COIL SPRINGS HAS BEEN REPORTED. HAVING LOST BOTH REAR COIL SPRINGS ON THE SAME CAR I BELIEVE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH MERCEDES PARTS. THE SPRING TORE OFF THE SHOCK WHEN IT BROKE AND THE FLUID LEAKED OUT, THE CAR DROPPED TO THE GROUND. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC IF I HAD BEEN DRIVING. TWICE.