2013 Nissan Rogue Problems

The transmission failed while I was driving on the freeway and I couldn’t go more than 30 mph while traffic was going 75-80 mph. Just to reach a spot to safely stop myself and my passenger were fearing for our lives of getting struck by another vehicle. Upon researching it we found that this is typical of this make, model and year vehicle with no resolve from manufacturer. We find this completely unacceptable to have a known defect like this with safety at hand and no where to turn for help to remedy these vehicles.

No warning light. Going down the freeway at About 70-80 mph then the accelerator stops working. It goes down to about 44 mph with my foot floored in gas pad. I have to get off the road and then let her set to cool . This went on over and over on a recent 15 hour trip I had the transmission sensors evaluated and it was indicated they were no good replaced one but need 2 and one reordered. If was . Waiting on replacement and the outside parts so I'll keep up with the changes we do to if they are wrong. Also replacing outside transmission filter.

I have already reported a crash due to sudden loos of power and submitted everything except the info that the air bags did not deploy and they should definitely

My 2013 nissan rouge looses power and makes a jarring noise immediately after stopping at every stop when I accelerate it suddenly losses almost all power its already caused a crash I got hit right after take off because its immediate deceleration

1. What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? The primary system affected appears to be the CVT transmission. Additionally, the engine computer (ECU) and electrical system (including battery, driver-side window, and turn signals) have shown repeated failures. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request. 2. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? During sudden loss of acceleration, the vehicle would not respond to the gas pedal for 10–20 seconds. This created dangerous situations when merging onto highways, crossing intersections, or making turns, as the car could not accelerate to avoid other vehicles or hazards. 3. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Yes. Independent mechanics confirmed repeated ECU and MAF sensor failures. In February 2025, after the vehicle stalled at an intersection, multiple repairs were attempted (alternator, key reset, starter replacement), but the drivability issues persisted, confirming the problem. 4. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? The vehicle has been inspected by independent mechanics multiple times. Insurance roadside service documented over ten incidents where the vehicle would not start or stalled, including two towing events. The manufacturer has not inspected this specific vehicle. 5. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? Yes. The check engine light for the mass air flow sensor would illuminate before and during drivability issues. These warnings first appeared in 2017, the first year of ownership. Other symptoms include engine chugging, electrical irregularities (window failure, rapid turn signal flashing), and sudden loss of acceleration.

No warning light. Going down the freeway at About 70-80 mph then the accelerator stops working. It goes down to about 44 mph with my foot floored in gas pad. I have to get off the road and then let her set to cool . This went on over and over on a recent 15 hour trip I had the transmission sensors evaluated and it was indicated they were no good replaced one but need 2 and one reordered. If was . Waiting on replacement and the outside parts so I'll keep up with the changes we do to if they are wrong. Also replacing outside transmission filter.

I have already reported a crash due to sudden loos of power and submitted everything except the info that the air bags did not deploy and they should definitely

My 2013 nissan rouge looses power and makes a jarring noise immediately after stopping at every stop when I accelerate it suddenly losses almost all power its already caused a crash I got hit right after take off because its immediate deceleration

unknown. all I know is my car started smoking and caught on fire

I am writing to formally notify NHTSA of a serious safety incident involving my 2013 Nissan Rogue. My vehicle experienced an electrical fire while parked in my driveway following heavy snowstorms and road salt exposure. The vehicle was stationary at the time of the incident. My insurance company declared the vehicle a total loss. There were no warning lights or other symptoms prior to this incident. Researching this failure, I discovered NHTSA Safety Recall No. 15V032000, which states that moisture and road salt may reach the driver-side wiring harness connector, causing corrosion and potential electrical short circuits that can result in a vehicle fire. My incident aligns exactly with the circumstances described in this recall. A VIN search on NHTSA indicates no open recalls, however, a plethora of complaints have been filed by owners of this make and model and there is technical documentation confirming that corrosion-related electrical fires have occurred across this model and generation. This fire posed a serious risk of injury or death.

I was driving down interstate 40 at 75 miles an hour and my car just quit in traffic. Luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road and set for about 10 minutes and my car started back up and I made it about 30 more miles and it quit again and I waited 10 minutes and it starts up again. That’s very dangerous in traffic.

The Nissan rogue when warm weather hits the CVT transmission seems to get hot and then you lose propulsion. You can’t even put it in reverse and you cannot accelerate at all. You have to get out. Push the car wait 10 minutes and then hope to try it again. What works as we have to do a reset on a CVT system? Turn the ignition on by not turning the car on step on the break put it in reverse. Hit the accelerator three times slowly then wait five seconds put it in park. Turn it off to accept the changes and then two more times. Follow the same process for your car to turn on so you can drive off They are recommending that we should purchase a cooling system for a transmission fluid. This doesn’t make sense. Everybody’s complaining about this.

BOTH front door actuators have failed. Can NOT open the front passenger side door at ALL and the front driver side door will ONLY OPEN from the INSIDE. My passenger had to exit the vehicle through the front passenger side window when the door malfunctioned in January. Then about 2 weeks later we could no longer open the front driver's side door from the outside. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request. My front seat passenger was trapped in the car. Luckily the window was able to roll down and my passenger was limber enough to crawl out through the window.

I was in a head on collision going 55-60mph with no airbags deployed. Car started a dripping fire. I have seatbelt lacerations starting from collarbone/neck area cross my chest, breast and right side ribs including deep bruising on lower abdomen and pelvic area. Police would not let me in my car bc air bags could potentially go off at any time but car made it to the tow-yard still without airbags going off. No warning or recalls sent to me since I bought the car in May of 2022.

NISSAN SUBFRAME DESIGN IS VERY UNSAFE. THEY HAVE MANUFACTURED A COMMON PROBLEM IN AÑMOST ALLL NISSAN ., THE FRONT SUBFRANE WASHERS ARE HOLD IN THE SUBFRAME UNDER PRESSURE., BAD BAD IDEA THATS NOT SAFE .TIRES AND SUSPENSIN ARE SUBJECT TO MAXIMUN VIBRATION AND HITS BY THE ROAD AND THOSE WASHERS CAN NOT HOLD THOSE IMPACTS. .TIME MAKE LOOK THEM FOOL, DECADENT ,UNSAFE BECAUSE THEY COME OUT OF PLACE ONE BY ONE COME OUT FROM THE SUBFRAME .,THE RESULT IS LOST OF WHEEL CONTROL.,.TRAC SYSTEM ON .,LIMB MODE TRANSMISSIION ACTIVES . MY CAR MAKES SUDDEN PULLS ..,TO RIGHT OR LEFT ..,I MUST BE VERY CAREFUL CARS BOTH SIDES OF ME NOT TO HIT THEM .,THE COST TO REPAIR THIS HORRIBLE MANUFACTIRED PROBLEM BORDER $2000 ., I MUST TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS NECESSARY TO AVOID ACCIDENTS ON MY ONLY VEHICLE. AND NOT HURT MY FAMILY

The car driver side window door leaks water into the driver side floor near where the legs go. The floor is always wet has Mold on it. Mirror above driver side has mold on it. Seatbelts throughout the car have accumulated mold on them. Behind the driver side that rug is wet soaked as well. The water has traveled to the left side of the vehicle is now getting moist. The trunk never shuts there’s an electrical issue with the wiring. As I drive the trunk opens and shuts not completely but unlatches allowing the trunk to swing open. The electrical issue with the trunk has drained my battery several times. The notification of the door door being open is constantly draining my battery. I have been stranded several times due to this electrical issue. As I drive the steering wheel tilt to the right I cannot control my steering. My steering wheel now looks like it’s out of place it’s like if I try to drive straight the car will go slight right. I have three toddlers who I need to drive to daycare in order to go to work to provide for my family. I do not feel safe driving this car. I went to a Nissan dealership informed them of all these issues in my concerns that I did not feel safe driving this car and they said there was nothing I could do about it unless I paid for the fix. As a consumer defect I do not feel I should be responsible for the manufacture errors

The icon light with the picture of person in car seat with airbag is constantly flashing.

The contact owns a 2013 Nissan Rogue. The contact stated that the passenger’s side seat belt signaled that the seat belt was detached despite being correctly attached. The horn also failed intermittently. The contact spoke to the dealer and was informed that the horn and seat belt failure was related to an electrical failure. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 90,000.

THE WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ABOUT 18 INCHES FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE TOWARD THE REAR VIEW MIRROR WITH NOTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD. APPARENTLY IT IS A STRESS FRACTURE IN THE GLASS THAT HAS BEEN WIDELY REPORTED AND SHOULD BE CLAIMED AS A DEFECT. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHEN THE CRACK OCCURRED.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED PASSENGER SIDE WITHOUT AN OUTSIDE OBJECT COMING IN CONTACT WITH THE VECHICLE. *TR

NISSAN SUBFRAME DESIGN IS VERY UNSAFE. THEY HAVE MANUFACTURED A COMMON PROBLEM IN AÑMOST ALLL NISSAN ., THE FRONT SUBFRANE WASHERS ARE HOLD IN THE SUBFRAME UNDER PRESSURE., BAD BAD IDEA THATS NOT SAFE .TIRES AND SUSPENSIN ARE SUBJECT TO MAXIMUN VIBRATION AND HITS BY THE ROAD AND THOSE WASHERS CAN NOT HOLD THOSE IMPACTS. .TIME MAKE LOOK THEM FOOL, DECADENT ,UNSAFE BECAUSE THEY COME OUT OF PLACE ONE BY ONE COME OUT FROM THE SUBFRAME .,THE RESULT IS LOST OF WHEEL CONTROL.,.TRAC SYSTEM ON .,LIMB MODE TRANSMISSIION ACTIVES . MY CAR MAKES SUDDEN PULLS ..,TO RIGHT OR LEFT ..,I MUST BE VERY CAREFUL CARS BOTH SIDES OF ME NOT TO HIT THEM .,THE COST TO REPAIR THIS HORRIBLE MANUFACTIRED PROBLEM BORDER $2000 ., I MUST TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS NECESSARY TO AVOID ACCIDENTS ON MY ONLY VEHICLE. AND NOT HURT MY FAMILY

The car driver side window door leaks water into the driver side floor near where the legs go. The floor is always wet has Mold on it. Mirror above driver side has mold on it. Seatbelts throughout the car have accumulated mold on them. Behind the driver side that rug is wet soaked as well. The water has traveled to the left side of the vehicle is now getting moist. The trunk never shuts there’s an electrical issue with the wiring. As I drive the trunk opens and shuts not completely but unlatches allowing the trunk to swing open. The electrical issue with the trunk has drained my battery several times. The notification of the door door being open is constantly draining my battery. I have been stranded several times due to this electrical issue. As I drive the steering wheel tilt to the right I cannot control my steering. My steering wheel now looks like it’s out of place it’s like if I try to drive straight the car will go slight right. I have three toddlers who I need to drive to daycare in order to go to work to provide for my family. I do not feel safe driving this car. I went to a Nissan dealership informed them of all these issues in my concerns that I did not feel safe driving this car and they said there was nothing I could do about it unless I paid for the fix. As a consumer defect I do not feel I should be responsible for the manufacture errors

unknown. all I know is my car started smoking and caught on fire

NISSAN SUBFRAME DESIGN IS VERY UNSAFE. THEY HAVE MANUFACTURED A COMMON PROBLEM IN AÑMOST ALLL NISSAN ., THE FRONT SUBFRANE WASHERS ARE HOLD IN THE SUBFRAME UNDER PRESSURE., BAD BAD IDEA THATS NOT SAFE .TIRES AND SUSPENSIN ARE SUBJECT TO MAXIMUN VIBRATION AND HITS BY THE ROAD AND THOSE WASHERS CAN NOT HOLD THOSE IMPACTS. .TIME MAKE LOOK THEM FOOL, DECADENT ,UNSAFE BECAUSE THEY COME OUT OF PLACE ONE BY ONE COME OUT FROM THE SUBFRAME .,THE RESULT IS LOST OF WHEEL CONTROL.,.TRAC SYSTEM ON .,LIMB MODE TRANSMISSIION ACTIVES . MY CAR MAKES SUDDEN PULLS ..,TO RIGHT OR LEFT ..,I MUST BE VERY CAREFUL CARS BOTH SIDES OF ME NOT TO HIT THEM .,THE COST TO REPAIR THIS HORRIBLE MANUFACTIRED PROBLEM BORDER $2000 ., I MUST TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS NECESSARY TO AVOID ACCIDENTS ON MY ONLY VEHICLE. AND NOT HURT MY FAMILY

The contact owns a 2013 Nissan Rogue. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the transmission shuddered, and cause the vehicle to stall. The check engine warning light remained illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local independent mechanic to be diagnosed and the contact was informed that the CVT transmission was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,000.

The contact owns a 2013 Nissan Rogue. The contact stated while driving approximately 65 MPH, the vehicle was stalling and jerking. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact was able to pull over safely and waited for 30 minutes before continuing to drive. The contact stated that there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed; however, the mechanic found no failure. The vehicle was driven to the residence and then taken to another independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the torque converter was faulty and that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 105,928.

MY BRAKES ARE NOT WORKING PROPERLY. I FIRST NOTICED MY BRAKE NOT RESPONDING CORRECTLY TO THE NORMAL AMOUNT OF PRESSURE ON 1/15/19. I WOULD APPLY NORMAL PRESSURE AND HAVE NO RESPONSE, AND HAVE TO PRESS HARDER TO GET ANY KIND OF DECLINE IN SPEED. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL SHOP AND THEY PUT ON BRAKES, ROTORS, AND FLUSHED THE BRAKE SYSTEM. A FEW WEEKS WENT BY AND THE BRAKES WERE OKAY, BUT STILL NOT NORMAL. ON 2/1/19 THE BRAKES WOULD COMPLETELY FAIL. I WOULD PRESS THE BRAKE AND THE BRAKE WOULD HIT THE FLOOR WITH NO BACKWARD PRESSURE ON MY FOOT AND NO SLOWING OF THE CAR. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE SHOP ON 2/2/19 AND THEY FLUSHED MY BRAKES. I RAN A FEW ERRANDS AND RETURNED MY CAR THAT SAME DAY BECAUSE IT WAS STILL NOT STOPPING PROPERLY. THEY FLUSHED THE BRAKES AGAIN AND SUGGESTED I SEE A NISSAN SERVICE CENTER IF THAT DID NOT FIX IT. ON 2/4/19 I TOOK MY CAR TO A NISSAN SERVICE CENTER. THEY COULD NOT FIND THE ISSUE, BUT SUGGEST A BRAKE FLUSH. I DECLINED BECAUSE OF THE PRICE AND MY BRAKES HAD BEEN FLUSHED TWICE TWO DAYS PRIOR. BUT TO BE SAFE,I RETURNED IT TO THE ORIGINAL SHOP AND HAD THEM FLUSH MY BRAKES AGAIN. THE CAR WILL NOW STOP. HOWEVER, THE SAME AMOUNT OF PRESSURE MAY CAUSE A SUDDEN STOP OR A SMOOTH STOP. THE BRAKES ARE STILL NOT RESPONDING PROPERLY AND I AM AFRAID THEY WILL FAIL AGAIN. I CALLED THE NISSAN CUSTOMER AFFAIRS LINE AND THEY SAID TO HAVE A NISSAN SERVICE CENTER FLUSH THE BRAKES. A BRAKE FLUSH IS A BRAKE FLUSH AND IT IS NOT WORTH $118 TO HAVE A NISSAN SHOP FLUSH MY BRAKES FOR THE SAME OUTCOME. I LOOKED ONLINE TO SEE IF OTHER 2013 NISSAN ROGUE OWNERS HAD SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE, AND THEY HAVE. I BELIEVE THIS IS WORTH LOOKING INTO. ACCIDENTS ARE HAPPENING BECAUSE OF SOMETHING WITH THIS ROGUE, NOT BECAUSE OF MY LACK OF MAINTAINING IT. THIS IS NISSAN'S FAILURE, NOT THE CONSUMER.

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE USED WITH JUST OVER 49,000 MILES ON IT. I HAVE HAD IT FOR LESS THAN A MONTH. I DISCOVERED THAT THE RIGHT REAR BRAKE LINE HAS BEEN RUN INCORRECTLY DURING ASSEMBLY. THE MOUNTING PLATE AND BOLT, WHERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO ATTACH ARE BOTH PRESENT. THE BRAKE LINE WAS RUN UNDER A FRAME BOLT INSTEAD OF ABOVE THE BOLT. THE BRAKE LINE IS RUBBING ON THE BOLT FRAME. THE CHAFFING HAS RUBBED THROUGH THE OUTER RUBBER COATING. THE WEBSITE IS NOT ALLOWING ME TO UPLOAD VIDEO OR PHOTOS. PLEASE CONTACT ME AND I CAN EMAIL THE VIDEO AND PHOTOS.

The contact owns a 2013 Nissan Rogue. The contact stated that the front driver’s and passenger’s side doors intermittently failed to open, causing the driver to climb over the rear seats to exit or enter the vehicle through the rear doors. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 136,116.

MY CAR'S FRONT PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG LIGHT IS ON FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS. ALSO THE PASSENGER SEAT BELT SIGN IS OFF AS WELL. MY VEHICLE PARK IN THE DRIVEWAY MOST OF THE TIME. I DRIVE AROUND ONLY FOR GROCERIES.

LEFT TAIL LIGHT/RUNNING LIGHT IS OUT, REPLACED BULBS AND FUSES BUT STILL NOT WORKING, COULD BE WIRING HARNESS UNCERTAIN AT THIS POINT

SHORTLY AFTER PULLING ONTO A CITY STREET ALL LIGHTS, HEADLIGHTS, BRAKE, SIGNAL, PARK, WENT OUT DURING DRIVING. THE INDICATOR THAT THE LIGHTS WERE ON WAS STILL LIGHT THOUGH THERE WERE NO LIGHTS. SWITCHING TO HIGH BEAM DID NOT RESULT IN LIGHTS COMING ON AND BLUE HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT DID NOT COME ON. CONTINUALLY HOLDING THE LIGHT SWITCH BACK IN HIGH BEAM POSITION WAS THE ONLY WAY TO HAVE LIGHTS TO DRIVE. FUSES WERE CHECKED BY A LOCAL TECHNICIAN AND NONE WERE BAD. LIGHTS CAME BACK AFTER TURNING ENGINE OFF FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 MINS THEN TURNING LIGHT ON.

I was driving on the interstate at right around 50-60mph, the day was sunny. I was in the middle lane on I275 and there was normal flow of traffic. I saw no debris. Then all of the sudden it sounded like an explosion and my car jolted. I knew something was very wrong and kept control of car. When the tire service man came he noted it the sidewall had blown out. The tread was good and no other areas affected. Other tires from this time were recalled just not the 16 size. I am concerned this tire is also affected with sidewall defects.