2012 Tesla Model S Problems

In October 2024, I brought my recently purchased used Model S to the Cincinnati Service Center for an antenna inspection, MCU upgrade, and general inspection to ensure the vehicle was safe and operating properly. During the inspection, I was informed that additional issues had been discovered. Wanting the vehicle to be reliable, I authorized the recommended repairs and ultimately paid more than $10,000 for the work performed. When I picked up the vehicle, a technician had to access it because the keys had been locked inside, and the battery had not been adequately charged. Shortly after leaving, I heard unusual noises and, within approximately five miles, discovered the protective underbody panel had not been properly secured and was hanging from the vehicle. Because I live in West Virginia, I was unable to complete the trip home and required a tow to a charging station. During the drive, the vehicle displayed coolant-related warnings. When I contacted the service center, I was advised to continue driving the vehicle if it remained operable and return it when convenient. Only seven days later, the vehicle completely shut down and became inoperable. When I returned it to Cincinnati, I was informed that the main battery required replacement at my expense despite previously being told multiple times that the battery was functioning properly. I have never received a clear explanation as to how the battery failed, why I am being held responsible, or whether the prior service contributed to the issue. Tesla instructed me to remove the vehicle from its property and return it to the seller. Although Tesla later offered $4,500 as a resolution, I declined because I do not believe I should be responsible for a battery failure that occurred immediately after extensive service work. I have photographs, invoices, service records, and additional documentation supporting my concerns.

I tried to start the car and got the “Center Display unavailable” message. Reset the computer doesn’t help. I have to wait for more than 5 minutes for the system to be on.

YOU ARE INVESTIGATING TESLA FRONT SUSPENSION FAILURES. YOU SHOULD ALSO INVESTIGATE TESLA REAR SUSPENSION FAILURES. HERE IS JUST ONE RECENT EXAMPLE.HTTPS://WWW.IAAI.COM/VEHICLEDETAILS/38453571?ROWNUMBER=39 THE SUSPENSION LINK HAS SNAPPED LIKE A PRETZEL CAUSING THE SUSPENSION TO FLOP DOWN LIKE A BAD CASE OF BREWER'S DROOP. PHOTO IS ATTACHED WITH THIS SUBMISSION. DESPITE TESLA ISSUING TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS ABOUT THIS AND HAVING FITTED A SLIGHTLY IMPROVED LINK TO LATER MODELS THESE LETHAL WEAK LINKS ARE STILL FITTED ON THOUSANDS OF CARS AROUND THE WORLD AND POSE A DANGER TO TESLA OCCUPANTS AND OTHER ROAD USERS. FOR MANY MORE EXAMPLES PLEASE VISIT THE WHOMPY WHEELS ALBUM HTTPS://WWW.IAAI.COM/VEHICLEDETAILS/38453571?ROWNUMBER=39 THANK YOU HAVE A GREAT DAY AND BAN THESE CONTRAPTIONS FROM THE ROADS OF THE WORLD. YOUR FRIEND KEEF

HERE IS A TERDSLA IN THE JUNKYARD HTTPS://WWW.IAAI.COM/VEHICLEDETAILS/38424109?ROWNUMBER=4 FRONT SUSPENSION HAS COLLOLOPSED. TIRE HAS RUBBED AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE FENDER AND WORN A HOLE THROUGH IT. LUCKILY FOR THE OWNER HE WAS NOT DRIVING NEAR A CLIFF AT THE TIME OR HE WOULD HAVE BEEN BRANDED A SUICIDE LIKE THE OTHER CASES WERE. PLEASE GET THESE CONTRAPTIONS RECALLED IMMEDIATELY. THANKS KEEF

I tried to start the car and got the “Center Display unavailable” message. Reset the computer doesn’t help. I have to wait for more than 5 minutes for the system to be on.

The vehicle was not experiencing display or review view camera display issues but was out of caution serviced nuder Manufacturer Recall Number SB2121001 (NHTSA Recall Number 21V035) for no charge. The vehicle is not under warranty. There was no charge for the initial "repair". When the vehicle was returned, the rear view camera did not function (black screen and/or serious flicker when video was partially displayed). Also bubbles were introduced into the front display panel. On questioning the repair, I was strongly encouraged by technician and then by manager to get an updated "infotainment with an upgraded MCU" (which is unclear but perhaps a superset of the VCM and display components that are under recall), for a cost of $2000 and $500 for it to include FM radio (that I already have and always worked fine). The manager offered a deal for $1000 + $500 to include FM radio. An appointment was set up and the estimate for approval was $1500 for "infotainment upgrade" and $500 for "Radio upgrade", and $120 taxes for a total of $2120.00 I will cancel the upgrade and inquire again if the recall work is able to return the vehicle in working order without it needing a $2000 upgrade to resolve an issue related to loss of viability and backup camera (cited under the recall) and to charge me $500 for an FM radio I already have that works fine.

In October 2024, I brought my recently purchased used Model S to the Cincinnati Service Center for an antenna inspection, MCU upgrade, and general inspection to ensure the vehicle was safe and operating properly. During the inspection, I was informed that additional issues had been discovered. Wanting the vehicle to be reliable, I authorized the recommended repairs and ultimately paid more than $10,000 for the work performed. When I picked up the vehicle, a technician had to access it because the keys had been locked inside, and the battery had not been adequately charged. Shortly after leaving, I heard unusual noises and, within approximately five miles, discovered the protective underbody panel had not been properly secured and was hanging from the vehicle. Because I live in West Virginia, I was unable to complete the trip home and required a tow to a charging station. During the drive, the vehicle displayed coolant-related warnings. When I contacted the service center, I was advised to continue driving the vehicle if it remained operable and return it when convenient. Only seven days later, the vehicle completely shut down and became inoperable. When I returned it to Cincinnati, I was informed that the main battery required replacement at my expense despite previously being told multiple times that the battery was functioning properly. I have never received a clear explanation as to how the battery failed, why I am being held responsible, or whether the prior service contributed to the issue. Tesla instructed me to remove the vehicle from its property and return it to the seller. Although Tesla later offered $4,500 as a resolution, I declined because I do not believe I should be responsible for a battery failure that occurred immediately after extensive service work. I have photographs, invoices, service records, and additional documentation supporting my concerns.

The drive unit has water damage from normal driving. The car never went through deep water or was flooded, but the tech at the service center is saying the units are sealed but still can get water in them and corrode. How can a vital sealed part of the vehicle be damaged by normal driving and claim water damage? The car operated just fine the day before. Please advise.

I tried to start the car and got the “Center Display unavailable” message. Reset the computer doesn’t help. I have to wait for more than 5 minutes for the system to be on.

As the car drains the battery pretty quickly, I have turned on energy saving mode. In this mode the car enters a deeper sleep, consuming less power. Sometimes in this mode when starting the vehicle, the turn signals will not work (this appears to happen when the car sits for a while and the miles left on the battery is under 120 or so). After a quick stop (2 minutes out of the car), the turn signals will start working, and the driver display will show the blinking turn signal when they work, but it will not display when they do not work. Another issue is that after entering the car and "turning it on", by pressing the break, sometimes the driver display (which shows speed and current drive mode, PRND indicator) will be blank, not showing any information, despite the ability to operate the car, etc.

The contact owns a 2012 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V035000 (Back Over Prevention, Visibility, Exterior Lighting). The contact stated that the center display screen failed to operate as needed. The dealer had been notified about the recall; however, the contact was informed that he did not qualify for the recall despite having received a letter for the recall. The manufacturer had not been notified of the issue. The contact stated that recently the center display screen started to operate as needed. The failure mileage was approximately 51,000. Parts distribution disconnect.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 TESLA MODEL S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A STICKY SUBSTANCE COMING OUT OF THE CENTER DISPLAY WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED ON OR OFF. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER TESLA (135 US-22, SPRINGFIELD, NJ 07081, (973)921-0925) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE CENTER DISPLAY TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. UPON INVESTIGATION, THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 21V035000 (BACK OVER PREVENTION, VISIBILITY, EXTERIOR LIGHTING) HOWEVER THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 32,000.

Both the 12 volt system and High voltage battery system or a component communicating between the two failed. I received a warning message that my vehicle may not restart and within 30 seconds it completely shutdown while driving in the middle of the road. The vehicle was essentially dead weight at this point. None of its features worked, the ability to unlock it, the ability to use electronic doors and windows functions could not be performed. it could not even be jumped to start the computer enabling it to be towed or put in neutral to even remove the vehicle from the roadway. The manufacturer has confirmed an inner fault within the High Voltage battery pack. I have since purchased and replaced this entire battery pack as it was said to be unserviceable.

eMMU seem to have caused "Console display not available error"

SLOWLY BACKING UP AND REAR SUB FRAME MOTOR MOUNT BROKE. ON A CITY STREET UNDER 5MPH

I HAVE A 2012 TESLA MODEL S P85 WITH 90,000 MILES. I NOTICED THE CAR FISHTAIL AGGRESSIVELY WHEN I ACCELERATED A FEW WEEKS AGO AT FREEWAY SPEEDS OF 55MPH AND ABOVE, TOOK IT IN TO TESLA SERVICE AND THEY EXPLAINED THAT I HAD A CRACK IN MY SUBFRAME. THE CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT, NEVER BOTTOMED OUT OR BEEN DRIVEN OFF-ROAD, JUST NORMAL STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. I WAS QUOTED $3,300 TO HAVE THIS FIXED, THEY WILL REPLACE WITH A NEW OR RE-MANUFACTURED SUBFRAME . I HAVE ATTACHED A PICTURE OF ANOTHER PERSONS SUBFRAME WHERE THE METAL SHEARED AWAY. THE AREA IN THE MIDDLE IS WHERE THE DRIVE UNIT IS PLACED, APPARENTLY THERE ARE NO MOTOR MOUNTS (RUBBER) THE DRIVE UNIT SITS DIRECTLY ON METAL (ALUMINUM). COULD THIS BE CONSIDERED METAL FATIGUE OR A BAD BATCH OF METAL RECEIVED BY TESLA.

In the evening of [XXX] of this year, the driver door airbag in my 2012 Tesla Model S self-deployed as I opened the car door to exit after parking in my garage. I brought the car to the Tesla dealer in Buena Park California, and they told me they could not fix it because the car’s warranty had already expired. I was not concerned about getting it fixed for free under warranty, but wanted Tesla to acknowledge that this was a serious safety hazard and what could be done to prevent this from happening again, seriously injuring me or someone else driving my car. My concern is that the dealership implied that the owner’s/driver’s safety is not Tesla’s responsibility after the warranty period ends. The dealership did not comment any further. A search on Reddit shows that airbag self-deployments during normal driving situations (non-accident) is not an isolated incident, but Tesla‘s airbag problems do not seem to have been well-publicized so that other Tesla owners or potential buyers can be made aware of this potential safety hazard. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

NOTICED THIS PROBLEM AFTER I WAS BACKING UP AND TURNING MY WHEELS AND WOULD HEAR A LOUD METAL ON METAL "CLUNK" OR "GRINDING" SOUND. IT WAS COMING FROM THE FRONT-LEFT SUSPENSION AND WOULD OCCUR CAUSING MY WHEEL AND STEERING TO FEEL LIKE IT WAS SKIPPING. I NOTICED AND MY STEERING FELT "LOOSE" OVER BUMPS AND WOULD PULL TO THE LEFT. AGAIN THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION AND THIS WAS FELT THE MOST WHEN TURNING FULL MOTION AND/OR BACKING UP AND TURNING. WHEN LOOKING AT ONE OF THE CONTROL-ARM JOINTS AFTER I NOTICED A VERY LOUD CLUNK AND COMPARING IT TO THE OTHER SIDE OF OF THE SUSPENSION, IT LOOKS LIKE EITHER A BOLT FELL OUT OR THE BALL-JOINT TO THE CONTROL ARM WAS JUST GRINDING FREELY. I'VE SINCE BROUGHT MY CAR TO TESLA AND THEY HAVE CONFIRMED THAT I HAVE A DEFECTIVE BALL-JOINT TO MY CONTROL ARM THATS ALSO DAMAGED MY STEERING KNUCKLE. IF I DIDNT CATCH THIS OR IT WAS BROKE AT GREATER SPEEDS WHATS THE LIKELY HOOD OF ME LOOSING CONTROL? I'VE ASKED IF THEY WILL REPLACE ALL THE OTHER PARTS IF THEY HAVE UPDATED PARTS BUT THEY SAID ONLY THE ITEMS THAT ARE DEFECTIVE IN THIS CASE WILL BE WARRANTIED. I SIMPLY DO NOT FEEL SAFE ANYMORE DRIVING THIS VEHICLE.

Motor is starting to make sounds and according to teslamotorsclub.com the motor will fail eventually. Many have to had to have the motor switched out multiple times. It is quite evident that there was a design flaw which Tesla corrected in later years.

The contact owns a 2012 Tesla Model S. The contact stated while driving 20 MPH, the vehicle independently shifted to neutral. An unknown warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who informed the contact that they could not duplicate the failure. The contact stated that the failure recurred daily while driving whenever he depressed the brake pedal. The vehicle was taken back to the same dealer. The dealer informed the contact that the failure could not be duplicated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but provided no assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 125,000.