2005 Chevrolet Uplander Problems

DRIVING THE VEHICLE ALONG THE INTERSTATE AT 65 MPH AT NIGHT, THE IGNITION SWITCH RUN POSITION ROTATED TO OFF AND THE ENGINE AND ALL HEADLIGHTS, DASH, ETC, SHUTDOWN ALONG WITH THE POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES. THE INCIDENT HAS JUST STARTED HAPPENING AND 340,000 MILES ON IT. ONLY WAY TO GET ROLLING IS TO PUT THE AUTO TRANS LEVER TO NEUTRAL AND TWIST THE IGNITION KEY TO CRANK POSITION AND LET KEY SETTLE TO RUN POSITION. THE IGNITION SWITCH ITSELF HAS A SPRING DETENT AND IT SETS IN A POCKET AT RUN. SO THIS SWITCH HAS A SPRING THAT OVER TIME WEAKENS AND ALLOWS THE WHOLE KEY CYLINDER ANS SWITCH TO DROP OUT OF RUN AND SHUT OFF THE ELECTRICAL. SOLUTION WAS TO PUT IN A NEW SWITCH OR JUST USE A SINGLE KEY INSTEAD OF A FULL SET OF KEYS HANGING FROM THE KEY SLOT.. THE FULL REPLACEMENT OF THE SWITCH RUNS 350$, PRTS AND LABOR.

MY ELECTRICAL WILL GO OUT AS I AM DRIVING. THE CAR HAS STOPPED COMPLETELY AND THE ELECTRICAL AS I WAS DRIVING. MY CAR WILL TURN ON AND THEN OFF, AND I HAVE TO DO IT ABOUT 5 TIMES BEFORE I CAN EVEN GET IT TO STAY ON AND DRIVE. SOMETIMES THE ELECTRICAL WILL STOP AFTER THAT BUT I CAN STILL DRIVE. THIS IS NOT SAFE. IT HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SOME TIME.

MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING MY CAR WITH THE HEATED SEATS ON. SHE FELT IT GET EXTREMELY HOT. SHE TURNED OFF SEAT WARMERS. WHEN SHE GOT OUT OF CAR, THE SEAT HAD MELT/BURN MARKS AND HER LEGGINGS AND SKIN HAD BURN/RED MARKS. I HAD A MECHANIC LOOK INTO THIS AND HE SAID DO NOT USE SEAT WARMERS-IT WILL CAUSE A FIRE. NEW SEAT IS AT LEAST $500 WITHOUT LABOR. MAKES ME QUESTION ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. IN ADDITION, YOU HAVE CONNECTED SO MANY THINGS TOGETHER, THAT REPLACING ONE THING MEANS REPLACING A WHOLE CONSOLE. I AM A TRUE CHEVY PERSON- USED TO OWN? BE ASSOCIATED WITH A CHEVY BERETTA, 1964 CORVAIR, CITATION, MALIBU... LOOKING TO BUY AGAIN, BUT THIS BURNING WAS SCARY!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SIDE DOOR HAD OPENED INDEPENDENTLY ON TWO OCCASIONS WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A MECHANIC AND WAS TOLD THAT THERE WAS A RELAY PROBLEM THAT CAUSED THE DOOR TO OPEN. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 155,000. RETURNED BY USPS. 2ND ATTEMPT ON 3/15/2013 AND 4/9/2013 FAILED. *KB

WHILE DRIVING DOWN I-75 IN MICHIGAN DOING ~75MPH, I FEEL A SHARP TUG THEN A SWAY. WE TOOK THE VEHICLE HOME AND INSPECTED IT. THE WELDS ON THE BODY TO THE ATTACHING POINT OF THE REAR AXLE HAD BROKEN AND THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WAS TRACKING SIDEWAYS. THANK GOD NOTHING BAD HAPPENED, WE HAD ALL SIX OF OUR KIDS WITH US WHEN IT WENT OUT AT 75MPH.

THE BACK REAR HATCH WHEN I LIFTED DROPPED! I GOT MY HANDS UP FAST ENOUGH TO STOP IT AND WAS NOT INJURED THOUGH

ABS LIGHT CAME ON AFTER BRAKES WERE REPLACED BY CHEVROLET MECHANIC. TOOK BACK AND WAS TOLD NEEDED NEW FRONT WHEEL HUB. HUB WAS REPLACED AT OUR EXPENSE, AND ABS LIGHT WAS RESET BY CHEVROLET CERTIFIED MECHANIC. ABS LIGHT CAME BACK ON BEFORE LEFT THE PARKING LOT, BUT MECHANIC SAID IT WAS OKAY AND HE WOULDN'T WORRY ABOUT IT. LEFT ON VACATION THE NEXT DAY. NEWLY REPLACED BRAKES MADE HORRIBLE GRINDING NOISES ALL THROUGHOUT TRIP. ALSO BEGAN GETTING INTERMITTENT BRAKE WARNING LIGHT, AND "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" AND "SERVICE ABS SYSTEM" WARNINGS. CRAWLED UNDER VEHICLE AND FOUND WIRES TO THE NEW WHEEL HUB WERE BROKEN AT WHEEL HUB. WIRES WERE FOR THE WHEEL ROTATION SENSOR, AS IT WAS IMPROPERLY INSTALLED. REPLACED WHEEL HUB AGAIN AT OUR EXPENSE, BECAUSE CHEVROLET CERTIFIED MECHANIC SAID FIRST HUB WASN'T INSTALLED IMPROPERLY, BUT ALSO SAID THE ONLY WAY THE WIRES COULD HAVE BECOME TORN WOULD BE IF IT HAD BEEN INSTALLED IMPROPERLY. ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT WERE OUT FOR ABOUT ONE (1) WEEK. SECOND REPLACEMENT HUB AND WIRING ARE STILL INTACT, BUT STILL HAVE CONTINUOUS ABS LIGHT AND INTERMITTENT BRAKE LIGHT AS WELL AS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED WARNINGS. DIFFERENT CHEVROLET CERTIFIED MECHANIC SAYS THERE IS NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT, ONLY PROBLEM IS THAT ABS SYSTEM WILL NOT FUNCTION, BUT BRAKES WILL STILL WORK AS IF NO ABS SYSTEM WERE ON THE VEHICLE. ALSO HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE CONTINUOUS ABS LIGHT ON A DIFFERENT CHEVROLET VEHICLE. IF CHEVY CAN'T MAKE THE ABS SYSTEM WORK AFTER THE BRAKES ARE WORKED ON, WHY CONTINUE WITH THE EXTRA EXPENSE OF PUTTING THEM ON? I NOW HAVE TWO(2) CHEVROLET ABS SYSTEMS THAT THEIR CERTIFIED MECHANICS SAY ARE IN TIP TOP CONDITION, ONLY PROBLEM IS NEITHER SYSTEM WORKS. ALSO, REGARDING THE 2005 UPLANDER, THE DRIVER'S SIDE SLIDING DOOR WILL NOT SHUT PROPERLY, RESULTING IN CONSTANT WARNING CHIMES EVERY TIME THE DOOR IS USED. AGAIN, CHEVY MECHANICS SAY NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE DOOR OR THE SYSTEM. MAYBE CHEVY SHOULD GET OUT OF THE CAR BUSINESS! *TR

I HAVE A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER VAN AND MY ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM FAILED ON ME. IT KEPT STICKING AND WOULD BRAKE ON ITS OWN AND THEN WHEN I NEEDED THE ABS SYSTEM TO WORK IT DID NOT. I ONLY HAD THE ABS SERVICE LIGHT SHOW UP AFTER IT FAILED TO WORK ON SNOW. UPON TAKING IT IN TO THE DEALER, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE SENSOR DETECTION FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACING. HAVE RESEARCHED AND OTHER UPLANDER OWNERS ARE HAVING SAME ISSUES. *TR

MY VAN HESITATES BETWEEN 2 AND 3 RPM'S. ESPECIALLY GOING UP A HILL, THE ENGINE LIGHT WILL BLINK FOR A FEW SECONDS. THEN ENGINE LIGHT CONTINUES TO STAY ON..THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IS MALFUNCTIONING.. WHEEL BEARING IN THE REAR NEED REPLACEMENT.. AND THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE.. RADIO SKIPS, INTERIOR LIGHTS DON'T WORK AT ALL.. THE DRIVERS SIDE SEAT DOESN'T HEAT. THERES BARELY ANY HEAT EVEN WHEN GAUGE READS THE ENGINE IS NORMALLY WARM..

SEVERAL TIMES SINCE PURCHASING MY 2005 CHEVY UPLANDER, THE IGNITION HAS JUST SHUT OFF. NORMALLY THIS WAS WHEN IDOLING SO I WASN'T TOO SURE. HOWEVER, IT JUST TURNED OFF WHEN I WAS DRIVING 65 MPH ON A MAJOR EXPRESSWAY IN CHICAGO. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC. THIS IGNITION SWITCH IS THE SAME ONE THAT IS CURRENTLY IN THE GM RECALL, YET IT HAS NOT BEEN RECALLED YET. PLEASE RECALL ALL VEHICLES WITH THIS IGNITION SWITCH AS MOST VEHICLES HAVE ALREADY BEEN RECALLED. WHY WAIT ON THE RECALL UNTIL MORE PEOPLE ARE IN ACCIDENTS AND POSSIBLY DIE? IT ISN'T WORTH THE RISK.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN I-75 IN MICHIGAN DOING ~75MPH, I FEEL A SHARP TUG THEN A SWAY. WE TOOK THE VEHICLE HOME AND INSPECTED IT. THE WELDS ON THE BODY TO THE ATTACHING POINT OF THE REAR AXLE HAD BROKEN AND THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WAS TRACKING SIDEWAYS. THANK GOD NOTHING BAD HAPPENED, WE HAD ALL SIX OF OUR KIDS WITH US WHEN IT WENT OUT AT 75MPH.

2005 CHEVY UPLANDER LT. UNDERCARRIAGE RUSTED ON BACK PASSENGER SIDE WITHIN 9 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE, CAUSING SEPARATION OF THE REAR PASSENGER WHEEL FROM THE BODY OF VEHICLE. WHEN DRIVING, YOU CAN HEAR/FEEL CLUNKING/SQUEAKING NOISE WHICH SOUNDS LIKE THE TIRE IS GOING TO COME COMPLETELY OFF THE CAR. AREA AFFECTED CANNOT BE REPLACED NOR WELDED AS THIS CAN BE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. I HAVE IMAGES THAT CAN BE SENT VIA EMAIL.

MY VAN HESITATES BETWEEN 2 AND 3 RPM'S. ESPECIALLY GOING UP A HILL, THE ENGINE LIGHT WILL BLINK FOR A FEW SECONDS. THEN ENGINE LIGHT CONTINUES TO STAY ON..THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IS MALFUNCTIONING.. WHEEL BEARING IN THE REAR NEED REPLACEMENT.. AND THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE.. RADIO SKIPS, INTERIOR LIGHTS DON'T WORK AT ALL.. THE DRIVERS SIDE SEAT DOESN'T HEAT. THERES BARELY ANY HEAT EVEN WHEN GAUGE READS THE ENGINE IS NORMALLY WARM..

RIGHT REAR LIGHTS (INDICATOR, BRAKE ) FAILED. TRIED TO REMOVE THE BOLTS AS PER THE VEHICLE INSTRUCTION MANUAL BUT THEY WOULD ONLY SPIN. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY COULD NOT REMOVE THE RIGHT OR THE LEFT LIGHTS. DEALERSHIP REMOVED THE PANEL AND DRILLED OUT THE SIDE TO REPLACE THE CAGE NUT WITH INSERTS. DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE BOLTS INSIDE HAD RUSTED AND THAT I HAD TO REMOVE THE BOLTS FROM TIME TO TIME TO PREVENT IT FROM SEIZING UP. SPOKE WITH GM CUSTOMER SERVICE CITING THE FACT THAT DESIGN OF THE SYSTEM WAS FAULTY AND ASKED THEM TO REIMBURSE THE CHARGES. GM DECLINED TO COVER THE CHARGES AND WHEN I STATED THAT IT WAS A FAULTY DESIGN AND THAT I WOULD TAKE IT TO NHTSA, THEY ADVISED ME TO BRING THE VEHICLE FOR REPAIR WHEN THERE IS A RECALL.

I WANTED TO LET YOU KNOW THAT THE CHEVY FUEL GAUGE ISSUE THAT IS BEING INVESTIGATED (HTTP://WWW-ODI.NHTSA.DOT.GOV/ACMS/DOCSERVLET/ARTEMIS/PUBLIC/PURSUITS/2011/PE/INOA-PE11014-3260.PDF) ALSO HAPPENS ON MY 2005 CHEVY UPLANDER. THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE ADDED TO THIS ISSUE. SOMETIMES THE FUEL GAUGE REGISTERS MORE FUEL THAN IS IN THE TANK AND OTHER TIMES IT SAYS LESS THAN IS IN THE TANK. IT IS VERY UNRELIABLE. *TR

THE SAME INVESTIGATION REGARDING GMC ENVOY AND BUICK RANIER SHOULD BE EXPANDED TO INCLUDE THE CHEVY UPLANDER, I OWN A 2005 UPLANDER AND IT IS EXHIBITING THE EXACT SAME ISSUE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, THE POWER STEERING FAILED AND THE RADIO BECAME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 181,000.

WIFE WAS DRIVING ON RD HIT POT HOLE KEY SHUT OFF NO STEERING NO BRAKES CONTACTED GM THEY GIVE FILE NUMBER TO CONTACT DEALER THEY SAID YOU PAY FIRST TO GET IT FIX NOT CHECKING TO SEE IF IT WAS BAD DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. *TR

THE DRIVER SIDE SEAT BELT DOES NOT BUCKLE INTO THE LATCH. THERE'S A METAL PIECE INSIDE THE LATCH BLOCKING IT FROM SLIDING IN AND SNAPPING IN. THIS STARTED HAPPENING A FEW DAYS AGO, PREVENTING ME FROM DRIVING THE VAN SINCE I CAN'T USE MY SEAT BELT.

DRIVER SEATBELT WILL NOT BUCKLE PROPERLY. IT TAKES ABOUT 4 ATTEMPTS TO SECURE THE SEATBELT. *TR

The contact owns a 2005 Chevrolet Uplander. The contact stated that while driving at undisclosed speeds, the vehicle was drifting and would not drive in a straight line. The vehicle was taken to the local mechanic who performed a wheel alignment and changed the tires, but the failure persisted. The mechanic later diagnosed that the surface of all four alloy wheels had begun to deteriorate and was out of round. The contact was advised not to drive the vehicle until the wheels were replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was offered. The local dealer was not yet contacted. The failure mileage was 80,000.

MY VAN HESITATES BETWEEN 2 AND 3 RPM'S. ESPECIALLY GOING UP A HILL, THE ENGINE LIGHT WILL BLINK FOR A FEW SECONDS. THEN ENGINE LIGHT CONTINUES TO STAY ON..THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IS MALFUNCTIONING.. WHEEL BEARING IN THE REAR NEED REPLACEMENT.. AND THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE.. RADIO SKIPS, INTERIOR LIGHTS DON'T WORK AT ALL.. THE DRIVERS SIDE SEAT DOESN'T HEAT. THERES BARELY ANY HEAT EVEN WHEN GAUGE READS THE ENGINE IS NORMALLY WARM..

I WAS HEARING ABOUT THE RECENT RECALL ACTIONS ABOUT CHEVY SUVS WITH WIPER BLADES. BUT, I HAVE HAD AN ISSUE WHERE MY WIPER WOULD STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD. MY VEHICLE WAS NOT IN THE RECALL, BUT, JUST MADE ME THINK, AND I WANTED TO SHARE. I PURCHASED A NEW ARM FROM GM AT MY LOCAL DEALER IN AUGUST OF 2018. SO, I THINK THAT I AM OK.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. WHILE DRIVING BETWEEN 35-65 MPH, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE WINDSHIELD WOULD WHISTLE. ON THE FIRST OCCASION, NEW GLUE WAS APPLIED AROUND THE WINDSHIELD. ON THE FOLLOWING OCCASIONS, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. ON MARCH 12, 2008, WHILE GOING THROUGH A CAR WASH, WATER BEGAN POURING INTO THE REAR TAILGATE WINDOW. THE DEALER HAS NOT YET BEEN NOTIFIED. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 53,280. UPDATED 3/25/08 *CN THE CONSUMER STATED THE WINDSHIELD NOISE IS DUE TO THE BODY STYLE OF THE VEHICLE BUT THE REAR WINDOW WAS A CRACKED BRAKE LIGHT AND NOT THE WINDOW. UPDATED 03/25/08 *TR

WHILE MY WIFE WAS DRIVING TO WORK, AND WITHOUT ANY SORT OF ISSUE TO PROVOKE IT, THE IGNITION CAME OUT OF THE RUN OR ON POSITION, CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO ABRUPTLY SHUT OFF. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT THIS WAS THE SAME IGNITION AS ALL THE OTHER VEHICLES THAT HAVE BEEN RECALLED, YET THIS ONE WAS NOT ON THE LIST. LUCKILY SHE HAD HER WITS ABOUT HER AND PULLED INTO THE CENTER TURN LANE. BUT THE ISSUE PERSISTED, GENERALLY ONLY WHEN TRYING TO START THE VEHICLE OR WHEN SHIFTING THE VEHICLE INTO DIFFERENT GEARS (PARK, REVERSE, DRIVE, ETC.). IT COST ME $312 TO FIX THIS ISSUE BETWEEN PARTS AND LABOR *TR

TRANSMISSION HAS SHIFTED HARD OCCASIONALLY. NOW THE TRANSMISSION WHEN SHIFTING FROM FIRST TO SECOND DELAYS THE SHIFT ALMOST AS IF IT IS IN NEUTRAL. EVENTUALLY IT FINDS SECONDS AND CONTINUES DRIVING FINE. CHEVY DEALER SAYS "EVERYTHING IS WITHIN SPECS" BUT TO REPLACE THE "POSSIBLE PROBLEM" PART IT IS $2000 PLUS. I HAVE READ HUNDREDS OF OTHER COMPLAINS ABOUT THE SAME ISSUES. HOWEVER NO RECALL TO BE SEEN. *TR

THE VEHICLE THAT WE ARE EXPERIENCING TROUBLE WITH IS THE '05 UPLANDER, SPECIFICALLY THE TIRES, GOOD YEAR INTEGRITY P225/60R17. THE TIRES ARE NOISEY, MAKE A STRANGE SOUND, WEAR OUT FAST, RIDE IS TERRIBLE, VIBRATION IN STEERING. WE HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE INTO BURT CHEVROLET MULTIPLE TIMES ONLY TO BE TOLD THAT NOTHING WAS WRONG. THIS WAS ALL DONE WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER WARRANTY. NOW WE ARE HAVING THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM OUT OF WARRANTY. WE ALSO RECENTLY TOOK OUR VEHICLE TO A 3RD PARTY MECHANIC AND IT WAS DETERMINED THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE TIRES. WE BELIEVE THE NOISE IS ATTRIBUTED TO RADIAL WOBBLE. BURT CHEVROLET RECORDS WILL SHOW THAT WE HAVE ROTATED THE TIRES EVERY 5,000 MILES AT YOUR LOCATION AND HAVE MAINTAINED THE TIRES AS RECOMMENDED. RECORDS WILL ALSO SHOW THAT THE THEN MANAGER REPLACED DEFECTIVE TIRES AT 15K MILES WITH THE SAME DEFECTIVE TIRE MODEL AND BRAND. AS I AM SURE YOU ARE WELL AWARE THAT THE GOODYEAR 'INTEGRITY' TIRE IS A PIECE OF JUNK. GOOGLE THIS TIRE AND SEE ALL OF THE COMPLAINTS ASSOCIATED WITH THIS TIRE. BURT TELLING US THAT NOTHING WAS WRONG WAS A COMPLETE FAILURE OF DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM AND NOT RESOLVING THE ISSUE. BURT SERVICE MANAGERS NOT RETURNING MY CALLS IS ALSO VERY UNAPPRECIATED. A SERVICE MANAGER AT BURT IN PARKER STATES THAT THEY PUT CHEAP TIRES ON VEHICLES TO KEEP THE PRICES LOW. SHOULD CUSTOMERS BE EXPECTED TO REPLACE TIRES EVERY 5K, OR 10K MILES? *TR

SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE IN JANUARY OF 2006 WE HAVE BEEN REQUIRED TO MAKE EXTENSIVE REPAIRS ON AN ON GOING BASIS. THE VEHICLE HAS TO BE ALIGNED & BALANCED ALMOST MONTHLY WHICH HAS RESULTED IN US REPLACING THE TIRES ON 3 DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. THE BRAKES HAVE BEEN REPLACED TWICE AND THE ROTORS HAVE BEEN TURNED TWICE IN THE PAST YEAR. THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT OCCURRED 3 WKS AGO WHEN MY WIFE WAS DRIVING HOME ON A 55 MPH 2 LANE ROAD WHEN SUDDENLY THE CHECK ENGINE & CHECK OIL LIGHT CAME ON. THE VEHICLE JUST STOPPED. UPON TOWING IT TO A LOCAL AUTO REPAIR SHOP WE WERE INFORMED THE TIMING BELT BROKE WHICH WARPED THE CAM SHAFT. GM WOULD DO NOTHING UNTIL WE TOWED IT AGAIN, THIS TIME TO A GM DEALERSHIP. THE VEHICLE WAS FOUND TO HAVE EXTENSIVE PROBLEMS FROM THE ENGINE, TO THE TIMING BELT, CAMP SHAFT, PISTONS, PLUGS AND MUCH MORE. *TR

THE CHASSIS HAS A SERIOUS RUST ISSUE AS I'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE. THE RUST ISSUE IS ONE THAT YOU WOULD NOT EVEN SEE ON A 60 YEAR OLD CAR. IT CAUSED THE REAR WHEEL AND ALL OF ITS COMPONENTS TO BREAK FREE. I DO HAVE PICTURES (IT'S DARK OUT RIGHT AT THE MOMENT BUT I CAN BY MORNING) I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND A SOLUTION FOR THIS FOR QUIET A WHILE NOW.

1ST TIME WIFE DRIVING IN PARKING LOT. ENGINE SHUT OFF, NO POWER STEERING, BRAKES, DASH BOARD INSTRUMENT PANEL WENT OFF. TOTAL POWER FAILURE. COULDN'T START, NOT SURE WHAT SHE DID TO FINALLY GET IT STARTED. NOT SERVICED @ THIS TIME. 2ND TIME VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. TOWED TO PEPBOY'S. COULD NOT DIAGNOSE PROBLEM, BUT UPON PUTTING BACK TOGETHER IT STARTED WORKING. I DROVE TO GM DEALERSHIP. COULD NOT DIAGNOSE BECAUSE WAS NOT DISPLAYING ISSUE. I HAD THEIR MASTER MECHANIC DRIVE FOR WEEK AND HE CLAIMS EVERYTHING RUNNING FINE. 3RD TIME < THAN MONTH AFTER 2ND TIME I'M DRIVING +/- 40MPH. COME UP TO INTERSECTION, PUMP BRAKES TWICE IN QUICK SUCCESSION AND DASHBOARD EMERGENCY LIGHT COMES ON ALONG W/ OTHER WARNING LIGHTS. NO TIME TO TELL WHAT THEY WERE. DEPRESS BRAKE TO COME TO STOP @ INTERSECTION AND DASHBOARD GOES BACK TO NORMAL. I START OUT WHEN LIGHT TURNS GREEN AND I GET TO +/- 30MPH PUMP BRAKES TWICE AGAIN AND ENGINE SHUT OFF, NO POWER STEERING, BRAKES, LIGHTS TURNED OFF "DRIVING AT NIGHT", DASHBOARD INSTRUMENT PANEL WENT OFF. AGAIN TOTAL POWER FAILURE. I PUT IN PARK, WOULD NOT START, TURNING KEY DID NOTHING, NO POWER WHATSOEVER. I PULLED KEY OUT AND WENT TO OPEN DOOR BUT COULD NOT OPEN OR UNLOCK DOOR. I COULD NOT GET OUT OF VEHICLE!!!! AT THIS POINT I MANAGED TO FLAG SOMEONE DOWN TO ASSIST ME. THEY SUGGESTED TO PUSH OFF TO SIDE OF ROAD. I PUT KEY BACK IN AND PUT IN DRIVE "HARD TO DO BECAUSE EVERYTHING IS DIGITALLY DISPLAYED" AND GOT TO SIDE OF ROAD. I TRIED TO OPEN DOOR AGAIN AND THIS TIME IT OPENED. AS OF 04-05-14 VEHICLE BACK AT SAME GM DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY CLAIM BEFORE GM WILL EVEN CONSIDER ANY DEFECTIVE PARTS & PAYING FOR ANYTHING. I FIRST HAVE TO PAY THEM TO REMOVE AFTER MARKET RADIO THAT PREVIOUS OWNER INSTALLED TO RETURN VEHICLE BACK TO FACTORY CONDITION. I'M STILL NOT SURE WHAT GM WILL TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR EVEN AFTER THEY DO THIS & WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS SHIFTED INTO DRIVE, THE VEHICLE WOULD MOVE BACKWARD. THE FAILURE OCCURRED TWICE. THE CONTACT CALLED THE MANUFACTURER AND FILED A COMPLAINT. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE CONTACT WOULD HAVE TO SUBMIT THE VEHICLE FOR A DIAGNOSTICS TEST AND WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY REPAIR COSTS. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 71,000.

TL* - THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 11,000 MILES. THE MECHANIC REPAIRED IT INSTEAD OF REPLACING, IT AND IT CONTINUED TO LEAK. THE DEALER REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION, AND THE NEW ONE FROM THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO LEAKING. THE VEHICLE WAS IN THE REPAIR SHOP FOR 16 DAYS, AND THE NEW TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE RESEALED. WHEN STARTING THE VEHICLE THE IGNITION WAS STICKING IN THE START MODE FOR 2 MINUTES AFTER RELEASING THE KEY. THE PASSENGER AUTOMATIC SLIDING DOOR DID NOT LATCH SHUT, NO WARNING INDICATOR LIGHT APPEARED NOR DID IT REGISTER WITH ONSTAR AS THE DOOR WAS BEING UN LATCHED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO OPEN THE DOOR IT WILL NOT OPEN BECAUSE THE LATCH DID NOT ENGAGE. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFETY RISK INVOLVED. THE CONTACT FILED A COMPLAINT WITH THE BBB, AND SPOKEN TO GM ABOUT ALL OF THE FAILURES. THE GEAR SHIFTWS VERY DIFFICULT TO MOVE FROM PARK TO REVERSE. ALL OF THE ABOVE LISTED FAILURES OCCURRED FREQUENTLY. THE MOST RECENT WAS THE DOOR AND THE STARTER. THE STARTER FAILURE OCCURRED 15 TO 20 TIMES. THE GEAR SHIFT FAILED EVERY TIME THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN. THE DOOR FAILED 20 TIMES. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 13,000. *AK THE ENGINE WOULD CRANK, BUT IT WOULDN'T START, THE DRIVERS HEATED SEAT WAS INOPERATIVE, THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK FROM THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL, THE POWER SLIDING DOOR WAS INOPERATIVE. UPDATED 03/30/07. *JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE HYDROPLANED, CRASHED INTO A GUARDRAIL, AND FLIPPED OVER SEVERAL TIMES. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED AND TOWED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000.

MY WIFE REARENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE AND THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THERE'S AN ESTIMATE DAMAGE OF 768 DOLLARS IN JUST PARTS ALONE. *TR

TL* - THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER. THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 11,000 MILES. THE MECHANIC REPAIRED IT INSTEAD OF REPLACING, IT AND IT CONTINUED TO LEAK. THE DEALER REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION, AND THE NEW ONE FROM THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO LEAKING. THE VEHICLE WAS IN THE REPAIR SHOP FOR 16 DAYS, AND THE NEW TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE RESEALED. WHEN STARTING THE VEHICLE THE IGNITION WAS STICKING IN THE START MODE FOR 2 MINUTES AFTER RELEASING THE KEY. THE PASSENGER AUTOMATIC SLIDING DOOR DID NOT LATCH SHUT, NO WARNING INDICATOR LIGHT APPEARED NOR DID IT REGISTER WITH ONSTAR AS THE DOOR WAS BEING UN LATCHED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO OPEN THE DOOR IT WILL NOT OPEN BECAUSE THE LATCH DID NOT ENGAGE. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFETY RISK INVOLVED. THE CONTACT FILED A COMPLAINT WITH THE BBB, AND SPOKEN TO GM ABOUT ALL OF THE FAILURES. THE GEAR SHIFTWS VERY DIFFICULT TO MOVE FROM PARK TO REVERSE. ALL OF THE ABOVE LISTED FAILURES OCCURRED FREQUENTLY. THE MOST RECENT WAS THE DOOR AND THE STARTER. THE STARTER FAILURE OCCURRED 15 TO 20 TIMES. THE GEAR SHIFT FAILED EVERY TIME THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN. THE DOOR FAILED 20 TIMES. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 13,000. *AK THE ENGINE WOULD CRANK, BUT IT WOULDN'T START, THE DRIVERS HEATED SEAT WAS INOPERATIVE, THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK FROM THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL, THE POWER SLIDING DOOR WAS INOPERATIVE. UPDATED 03/30/07. *JB

I BOUGHT A 2005 CHEVY UPLANDER, ALREADY WENT THROUGH THE BBB AUTO LINE REGARDING THE UNACCEPTABLE TEMPERATURES IN THE CAR (EVEN AFTER RUNNING AC ON MAXIMUM FOR 30 MIN PLUS) OF 85 DEGREES TO 95 DEGREES. WHICH ARE UNACCEPTABLE TO ME AND I HAVE HAD A VERY CLOSE CALL WITH MY DOGS, THAT TRAVEL IN CRATES IN THE BACK SEVERAL TIMES DUE TO THE HEAT IN THE CAR. DURING THE ARBITRATION HEARING CHEVROLET (MR. NADER, RICHMOND KY) DID NOT DISPUTE THE HOT TEMPERATURES IN THE CAR, THE AC IS DESIGNED TO NEVER BLOW OUT COLDER AIR THAN 43 - 48 DEGREES AFTER RUNNING FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND STANDING STILL 50+ DEGREES TEMPERATURE, YES, THE BACK IS HOTTER, AS THE PIPES FOR THE REAR AC GO THROUGH THE ROOF AND THE ROOF IN THE SUMMER WILL GET 110 TO 130 DEGREES EASILY. BUT THERE IS NO FIX FOR IT. MY QUESTION IS, KY IS NOT ONE OF THE HOTTEST STATES, HOWEVER, WE HAD A HOT SUMMER AND STILL DO HAVE 90 DEGREES DAYS NOT, WHAT ABOUT PEOPLE TRAVELING FOR SEVERAL HOURS, SOMEONE COULD DIE IN THE BACK, AS THE FRONT DOES NOT REALIZE THAT THE BACK IS NOT WORKING SUFFICIENTLY. PLEASE CHECK INTO THIS BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT BY THIS THROUGH THE NEGLIGENCE OF CHEVROLET. YOUR HELP WOULD BE SO MUCH APPRECIATED. *NM