2008 Dodge Caliber Problems

Rear subframe rusted right through control rods snapped rear end of car dropped down. Upon researching they know that this is bad and unsafe even gave a 10 year extended warranty for front and rear subframe so how long will and how many complaints before this is an actual recall. I see here in your complaints that there is a large number of complaints on this issue. How are they getting away with this and nothing being done. I will have photos also police had said if this happened while it was on interstate would have crashed and could have been fatal. The tire would have ripped right off. So not only was my safety but the safety of the others being jeopardized cause everyone just keeps looking away at this issue. I would love to know how many of these subframes have had to be replaced I bet if you do research there is not one of them out there that either should be replaced have been replaced or will need to be replaced. Stop allowing these car companies to use sub standard parts. I am sure this will fall to the wayside along with the other 100 complaints. I will try my hardest to make sure everyone knows this is a problem that the car company is fully aware of and nobody has done anything about and keep researching on how many more this has happened to and try to get everyone to file a complaint. There was NO WARNING SIGN just broke loose passenger side of car was practically on the ground the broken control arm is what held everything up. Please can we really check into this if there is a recall at least people will know the problem exist.

I’ve only had the car since Aug. Im the second owner, it drove just fine. Then I got an oil change. Then the car began to rev down hill and struggled to make it uphill. Then my exhaust became excessively loud. Then the wheel became loose ,and started pulling ALOT. I was on my way to get an alignment this morning and the whole front end began to buckle not even a minute down the road. I tmade it in back the driveway before the front end collapsed completely

The entire underneath of my car is rusted out. I was driving to work one day when someone pulled out in front of me and I had to hit the brakes. That resulted in the subframe and front drivers axel to break as I’m driving! The sunroof leaks when it rains and half the time the electricity doesn’t work on the sunroof button. My doors have completely stopped auto locking and my hazards will randomly start flashing without pushing the button. Steering is absolutely terrible, it feels like you’re skidding on ice or hydroplaning the entire drive.

Subframe rusted front and rear Was driving tire axel/rod broke entire underneath rusted rotted

The entire underneath of my car is rusted out. I was driving to work one day when someone pulled out in front of me and I had to hit the brakes. That resulted in the subframe and front drivers axel to break as I’m driving! The sunroof leaks when it rains and half the time the electricity doesn’t work on the sunroof button. My doors have completely stopped auto locking and my hazards will randomly start flashing without pushing the button. Steering is absolutely terrible, it feels like you’re skidding on ice or hydroplaning the entire drive.

THE FRONT CALIPERS WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN BRAKE PEDAL IS PRESSED. THE BRAKE PEDAL SINKS TO THE FLOOR AND HAS NO STOPPING POWER. THE MASTER CYLINDER WAS REPLACED AND CALIPERS ARE NEW REPLACEMENTS. AFTER REPLACING THESE PARTS IT NOW SMELL OF BURNT BRAKE FLUID BUT THERE IS NO LEAK AND THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO WORSEN. THE FIRST TIME I WAS DOING 45-50 ON A COUNTY RD WHEN A ANOTHER CAR PULLED OUT 20 FEET AWAY AND I WAS TRYING TO SLOW DOWN WHEN I LOST THE FRONT BRAKES AS PISHED IN ON THE PUSHED IN ON THE BRAKES THE PEDAL SANK AND THEY DIDN'T ENGAGE. I THEN BOUGHT THE NEW CALIPERS AND IT WAS FINE FOR ABOUT A MONTH. THE SECOND TIME I WAS STUCK IN TRAFFIC ON A BUSY CITY STREET WHEN THE ABS BRAKES FAILED RESULTING IN ME RUNNING A RED LIGHT AND ALMOST GETTING HIT. IT HAS CORRODED AND TOOK HUNKS OFF ALUMINUM FROM MY FRONT DRIVER RIM. I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM AND KEEP REPLACING PARTS FOR IT TO TEAR UP NEW ONES

My vehicle has created a rotten subframe that holds my engine

The contact owns a 2008 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds in the rain, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the power steering became inoperable. The battery warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer where it was diagnosed and determined that an unstated computer needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted but no additional assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000. The contact stated that the vehicle is unsafe to drive and the mechanics has not found a resolution to the problem yet.

AFTER REACHING 100K MILES, I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION FLUSHED. SINCE THEN MY TRANSMISSION OVER HEATS WHEN I DRIVE 65 OR MORE MPH. I BROUGHT IT BACK TO THE SAME DEALER ABOUT A YEAR LATER AND THEY WANTED TO CHARGE ME $1500. I WALKED OUT! I DRIVE 64 MPH TO KEEP IT FROM OVER HEATING.

WHILE DRIVING MY CAR SPEED LOWERED AND THE TRANS TEMP LIGHT AND ESP LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL AND ETB MODULE LIGHT CAME CAR WON'T GO OVER 40 AND REMAINS IN LIMP MODE EVEN AFTER TAKING IT TO THE SHOP

My vehicle has created a rotten subframe that holds my engine

The contact owns a 2008 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds in the rain, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the power steering became inoperable. The battery warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer where it was diagnosed and determined that an unstated computer needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted but no additional assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000. The contact stated that the vehicle is unsafe to drive and the mechanics has not found a resolution to the problem yet.

I’ve only had the car since Aug. Im the second owner, it drove just fine. Then I got an oil change. Then the car began to rev down hill and struggled to make it uphill. Then my exhaust became excessively loud. Then the wheel became loose ,and started pulling ALOT. I was on my way to get an alignment this morning and the whole front end began to buckle not even a minute down the road. I tmade it in back the driveway before the front end collapsed completely

WHILE DRIVING MY CAR SPEED LOWERED AND THE TRANS TEMP LIGHT AND ESP LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL AND ETB MODULE LIGHT CAME CAR WON'T GO OVER 40 AND REMAINS IN LIMP MODE EVEN AFTER TAKING IT TO THE SHOP

THE FRONT CALIPERS WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN BRAKE PEDAL IS PRESSED. THE BRAKE PEDAL SINKS TO THE FLOOR AND HAS NO STOPPING POWER. THE MASTER CYLINDER WAS REPLACED AND CALIPERS ARE NEW REPLACEMENTS. AFTER REPLACING THESE PARTS IT NOW SMELL OF BURNT BRAKE FLUID BUT THERE IS NO LEAK AND THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO WORSEN. THE FIRST TIME I WAS DOING 45-50 ON A COUNTY RD WHEN A ANOTHER CAR PULLED OUT 20 FEET AWAY AND I WAS TRYING TO SLOW DOWN WHEN I LOST THE FRONT BRAKES AS PISHED IN ON THE PUSHED IN ON THE BRAKES THE PEDAL SANK AND THEY DIDN'T ENGAGE. I THEN BOUGHT THE NEW CALIPERS AND IT WAS FINE FOR ABOUT A MONTH. THE SECOND TIME I WAS STUCK IN TRAFFIC ON A BUSY CITY STREET WHEN THE ABS BRAKES FAILED RESULTING IN ME RUNNING A RED LIGHT AND ALMOST GETTING HIT. IT HAS CORRODED AND TOOK HUNKS OFF ALUMINUM FROM MY FRONT DRIVER RIM. I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM AND KEEP REPLACING PARTS FOR IT TO TEAR UP NEW ONES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING, THE CONTACT HEARD A LOUD NOISE. THE CONTACT LATER DISCOVERED THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS RUSTED THROUGH AND CAUSED THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE AXLE TO FRACTURE. ALSO, THE TOP OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE WHEEL WAS TILTED INWARD. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE AXLE, SUBFRAME, ONE OF THE BRAKES, AND THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LINE WERE REPLACED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT CALLED THE MANUFACTURER AND WAS TRANSFERRED TO NHTSA. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 112,850.

MY AIRBAG LIGHT STARTED GIVING ME PROBLEMS IN SEPTEMBER 2019, THE AIRBAG LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF WHEN STATIONARY, AND IN MOTION.

THE AIRBAG LIGHT IS ON AND STAYS ON. IT RANDOMLY GOES OFF FOR A MINUTE BUT WILL STAY ON MOST OF THE TOME AND BEEP NONSTOP

My vehicle has created a rotten subframe that holds my engine

THE FRONT CALIPERS WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN BRAKE PEDAL IS PRESSED. THE BRAKE PEDAL SINKS TO THE FLOOR AND HAS NO STOPPING POWER. THE MASTER CYLINDER WAS REPLACED AND CALIPERS ARE NEW REPLACEMENTS. AFTER REPLACING THESE PARTS IT NOW SMELL OF BURNT BRAKE FLUID BUT THERE IS NO LEAK AND THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO WORSEN. THE FIRST TIME I WAS DOING 45-50 ON A COUNTY RD WHEN A ANOTHER CAR PULLED OUT 20 FEET AWAY AND I WAS TRYING TO SLOW DOWN WHEN I LOST THE FRONT BRAKES AS PISHED IN ON THE PUSHED IN ON THE BRAKES THE PEDAL SANK AND THEY DIDN'T ENGAGE. I THEN BOUGHT THE NEW CALIPERS AND IT WAS FINE FOR ABOUT A MONTH. THE SECOND TIME I WAS STUCK IN TRAFFIC ON A BUSY CITY STREET WHEN THE ABS BRAKES FAILED RESULTING IN ME RUNNING A RED LIGHT AND ALMOST GETTING HIT. IT HAS CORRODED AND TOOK HUNKS OFF ALUMINUM FROM MY FRONT DRIVER RIM. I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM AND KEEP REPLACING PARTS FOR IT TO TEAR UP NEW ONES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS MALFUNCTIONED AND THE TURN SIGNAL BLINKERS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED WHEN PROMPTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 140,000.

MY 2008 DODGE CALIBER PASSENGER HEAD LIGHT ONLY WORKS ON "HIGH BEAM" WHILE BOTH STATIONARY AND IN MOTION. REPLACING THE BULB DOES NOT FIX THE ISSUE. IT IS DUE TO A DEFECT IN THE TIPM BOX. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND HAS RECEIVED RECOGNITION EVEN IN THE NEWS MORE THAN ONCE. (HTTP://WWW.ABC15.COM/NEWS/LET-JOE-KNOW/LET-JOE-KNOW-HOW-A-BURNED-OUT-HEADLIGHT-COULD-COST-900). THIS ISSUE MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF A REAL AS IT IS A KNOWN ISSUE AMONG SEVERAL DODGE CALIBERS ACROSS MULTIPLE YEARS. IT IS AN ISSUE THAT IS WIRING RELATED AND EFFECTS LIGHTING WHICH IS A KEY SAFETY CONCERN TO BOTH MYSELF AND OTHERS WHILE DRIVING ESPECIALLY WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT. THE TIPM BOX IS NOT AN ITEM THAT SHOULD REQUIRE REPAIR UNDER ORDINARY WARE OF THE EQUIPMENT. OCCASIONALLY THE LIGHT MAY FLICKER BACK ON AND THEN OFF AGAIN MAKING THE SITUATION EVEN MORE UNPREDICTABLE AND DANGEROUS. THIS ISSUE IS ALSO NOT THAT DIFFERENT FROM RECALLS ALREADY ISSUED BY FORD FOR SIMILAR LIGHTING PROBLEMS WHERE THE LOSS OF HEADLIGHTS HAS RESULTED IN ACCIDENTS (HTTP://WWW.REUTERS.COM/ARTICLE/US-AUTOS-FORD-RECALL-IDUSKBN0U51TT20151222). I HAVE ASKED DODGE TO CORRECT THIS ISSUES BUT THEY HAVE REFUSED AS THEY CLAIM THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES THAT COVER THIS REPAIR ON MY VEHICLE AND THERE HAS BEEN NO RECALL AS OF YET DUE TO THIS PROBLEM. THE ESTIMATED REPAIR FOR A HEADLIGHT NOT WORKING WITH THIS PROBLEM AVERAGES BETWEEN $800 TO $1000 WHICH IS ALSO QUITE EXTREME AND AN UNDUE BURDEN ON THE GENERAL AMERICAN FOR WHAT SHOULD BE A SIMPLE HEADLIGHT PROBLEM. PLEASE TAKE THIS ISSUE WITH DODGE HEADLIGHTS NOT PROPERLY FUNCTIONING INTO CONSIDERATION FOR A REQUIRED RECALL TO HOLD DODGE ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE SAFETY CONCERN THAT IT POSES TO ALL WHO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE AND DRIVE ON THE ROADS WHERE THIS VEHICLE IS PRESENT.

I CAN DRIVE THE CAR BUT CAN'T SPEED UP OR ENGINE LIGHT WILL FLASH. IF I'M AT A STOP LIGHT TOO LONG MY CAR WILL STALL WHILE ENGINE LIGHT IS FLASHING AND CAN'T TURN OVER ENGINE RIGHT AWAY.

WHILE GOING 45 MPH CAR STARTED STALLING AND WOULD IDLE AT 1.5 STOPPED IN NEUTRAL. LOST ALMOST ALL POWER. MERELY CAUSED A COLLISION. *TR

2008 DODGE CALIBER. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO TPMS SENSOR CORROSION. *LD UPDATED 08/29/2017 *JS

I WAS IN GEORGETOWN ONTARIO ON THE WEEKEND AND GOT IN MY CAR TO DRIVE BACK TO WINDSOR ON MONDAY OCT 8TH. THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT CAME ON BUT WE HAD FROST OVERNIGHT AND KNEW THIS WAS A NORMAL CHANGE IN TIRE PRESSURES. I STOPPED AT THE GAS STATION AND PUT AIR IN TIRES AND MADE SURE THEY WERE ALL THE SAME PRESSURE. THE TIRE PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT IMMEDIATELY WENT OUT. WE DROVE FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT WENT ON AGAIN. I STOPPED AT THE NEXT SERVICE CENTER ON THE 401 AND CHECKED THE TIRES. I COULD SEE THE RIGHT FRONT VALVE STEM WAS CRACKED. WHEN I TURNED IT, THE AIR STARTED TO QUICKLY EXIT THE TIRE. I HAD MY WIFE PUT HER THUMB ON IT WHILE I GOT THE JACK OUT AND INSTALLED THE SPARE TIRE. I HAD TO HAVE THE TPM SENSOR AND VALVE STEM REPLACED @ $150. READING ON THE INTERNET, THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. THE SERVICE MANAGER TOLD ME ITS DUE TO CORROSION AND HAS HAD TO REPLACE SOME. HE SAID CHRYSLER HAS NOT COME UP WITH A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM ON MY MODEL VEHICLE. THIS CAR ONLY HAS 38,000 KM AND IS JUST OVER THREE YEARS OLD! THE VALVE STEM SHOULD NOT BE CRACKING! THIS IS A BIG SAFETY HAZARD, IF THAT STEM HAD LET LOOSE WHEN I WAS PASSING SOMEONE ON THE 401 IN THE LEFT LANE, I COULD HAVE LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. I AM NOW WORRIED ABOUT THE OTHER THREE VALVE STEMS. *TR

LEFT AND RIGHT A POST MUCH TOO WIDE HINDERING ABILITY TO SEE WHERE THE CURB IS IN RELATION TO THE CAR. IT ALSO HINDERS THE ABILITY TO SEE IF A SMALL ANIMAL IS IN THE AFFECTED VIEW. IN RELATION TO THE TRANSMISSION, MY TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REPLACED RIGHT AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRED. I'VE HAD TO HAVE 2 TIE RODS REPLACED. AN ENGINE MOUNT REPLACED, AND A STRUT REPLACED, I AM ALSO ON MY SECOND BATTERY. THIS CAR HAS COST ME A LOT OF MONEY SO FAR. I KNOW IT'S 11 YEARS OLD BUT I'VE NEVER HAD THIS MANY MECHANICAL ISSUES WITH ANY CAR I'VE OWNED SO FAR. THE NEWEST PROBLEM IS A GRINDING NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE THE WHEEL IS GOING TO FALL OFF BEFORE I GET HOME SAFELY. THERE IS A NEW NOISE AS WELL THAT ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE A RADIAL TIRE WITH AN ISSUE BUT MY TIRES ARE ALL FINE. I AM TAKING IT TO A GOOD MECHANIC TOMORROW....AGAIN!! AT ONE POINT WHILE DRIVING AT ABOUT 35 MPH AND STARTING TO TURN THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE IN THE FRONT END AND IT SOUNDED LIKE SOMETHING FELL OFF, I WAS TURNING LEFT AT THE TIME. MY ABS BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON. I SLOWLY WENT TO THE AUTO DEALER, AND THEY SAID THERE WAS A CONNECTOR THAT BROKE AND ALSO A SENSOR THEY HAD TO ORDER. THAT COST OVER $400 PLUS I NEEDED TO RENT A CAR TO GET HOME. NOT A FAN OF THE CALIBER AT ALL. I DO LOVE THE STYLE IT'S SPORTY AND EASY TO DRIVE, WHEN IT'S NOT IN THE SHOP THAT IS.

DRIVING IN A RAINSTORM, THE WIPERS QUIT WORKING. PULLED OVER AND RE-STARTED CAR, WIPERS WORKED. GOT BACK ON THE ROAD AND IT HAPPENED NUMEROUS MORE TIMES. FOUND NO PROBLEM WITH FUSES, WIRING, OR WIPER MOTOR. VERY DANGEROUS.LOTS MORE COMPLAINTS ON INTERNET SEARCH RESULTS.

DRIVERS SEAT HEATER STAYED ON AFTER CAR KEY WAS TURNED OFF. IT CONTINUED TO STAY ON AFTER I GOT OFF AND WENT SHOPPING..THE WHOLE DRIVERS SEAT BURNT A BIG HOLE. BURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM AND BURNED THE CARPET AND PART OF THE DOOR PANEL. SMOKED THE WHOLE CAR .APPRAISER .SAID IT WAS A SHORT.IN BACK PART OF HEATING WIRING IN BACK OF SEAT. THAT STAYED ON. *TR

IT IS RAINING IN MY VEHICLE. RAIN IS POURING IN THROUGH THE SUNROOF AND ENTERING MY CAR THROUGH THE DOME LIGHT, PASSENGER AND DRIVER SIDE SUPPORT PILLARS, AND ONTO THE PASSENGER AND DRIVER SIDE FLOOR AND SEATS THROUGH A FAULTY DRAINAGE SYSTEM. THERE IS ALREADY A SERVICE BULLETIN OUT FOR THE 2007 MODEL FOR THIS ISSUE. I WENT TO DODGE TODAY AND THEY WILL NOT FIX MY CAR PER THEIR SERVICE BULLETIN: 23-043-06 SUBJECT: WATER LEAK FROM HEADLINER, BECAUSE IT IS OUT FOR THE 2007 MODEL. THEY SAID THE EXTENDED WARRANTY I BOUGHT THROUGH CHRYSLER WILL NOT COVER THE PARTS OR LABOR AND THEY WILL NOT APPLY THE SERVICE BULLETIN TO MY VEHICLE BECAUSE I OWN A 2008 VEHICLE. THE ISSUE, NOT TAKEN CARE OF LEADS TO ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS, AS REPORTED BY OTHER OWNERS ON VARIOUS BLOGS THAT PERTAIN TO THIS SAME PROBLEM. THIS COMPANY HAS IRRESPONSIBLY PRODUCED A 2008 MODEL WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AS THE 2007 MODEL, HOWEVER, THEY WILL NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. IN ADDITION, THE PARTICULAR DEALERSHIP I WENT TO AT 9600 ATLANTIC BLVD, JACKSONVILLE, FL, WANTED ME TO PAY AT $105 DIAGNOSTIC FEE IN ADDITION TO THE WARRANTY DEDUCTIBLE OF $100 IF THE WARRANTY WAS TO COVER THE PROBLEM THAT DODGE CREATED IN THEIR COUNTERPRODUCTIVE MANUFACTURING METHODS. *TR

THE AIR BAG LIGHT IS ON AT ALL TIMES AND DOES NOT GO OFF.

DURING A RECENT TRIP TO LAS VEGAS, MY PARTNER AND I RENTED A DODGE CALIBER. WE BELIEVE THERE IS A SERIOUS SAFETY FLAW IN THE FRONT DRIVER AND PASSENGER SEAT BELT SYSTEMS. DURING OUR TRIP WE HAD MANY INSTANCES WHEN OUR SEAT BELTS WOULD COME UNBUCKLED. AFTER EXAMINING WHY THIS WAS HAPPENING WE FOUND THE PROBLEM. IF YOU JUST BUCKLE YOUR SEAT BELT WITHOUT LOOKING, LIKE MOST AMERICANS DO, YOU CAN ACTUALLY PUT THE BUCKLE INTO THE PLASTIC LATCH HOUSING AND NOT THE LATCH ITSELF. IT FEELS VERY SIMILAR TO WHEN YOU CORRECTLY LATCH THE BELT. IT WILL ALSO HOLD IN THAT POSITION, BUT OBVIOUSLY NOT IN A CAR ACCIDENT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 75 MPH, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED. LOST POWER, THE TRANSMISSION WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 35 MPH. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED TO THE CONTACT THAT THE FAILURE WAS CAUSED DUE BY THE TRANSMISSION FLUID OVERHEATING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC PERFORMED. THE FAILURE AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 55,000. THE DEALER REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID. UPDATED 08/06/12

2008 DODGE CALIBER - CURRENTLY AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR $700 IN REPAIRS. THEY STATE THAT THE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THE CAR WOULD RANDOMLY AND SUDDENLY BOGG DOWN UPON NORMAL ACCELERATION--VERY DANGEROUS WHEN PULLING INTO TRAFFIC-- AND THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT WOULD ILLUMINATE EITHER MOMENTARILY OR FLASH. IT WOULD NOT GO ABOVE 10 MPH WHEN THIS HAPPENED. RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET HAS REVEALED MANY, MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. DODGE TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THIS CLAIMING IT NOT TO BE A COVERED PART OF THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. WHEN QUESTIONED, THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT WHEN CARBON BEGINS TO FORM THAT "APPARENTLY THE ENTIRE INSIDE OF THE THROTTLE BODY UNIT CARBS UP". I ASKED, "DO YOU MEAN NORMAL CARBON FORMATION THAT HAPPENS IN ALL ENGINES." THE RESPONSE WAS, YES AND THAT THEY RECOMMEND A "CARB CLEANOUT" EVERY 30,000 MILES (MINE IS AT 53,000). I THEN ASKED (KNOWING THE ANSWER) IF THAT WAS MAINTENANCE THAT WAS INCLUDED WITH OTHER MAINTENANCE IN THE MANUAL. OF COURSE, THE REPLY WAS "NO". THIS FAILURE, WHEN IT HAPPENS, PRESENTS AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION. IT ONLY HAD TO PUT ME IN A BAD PREDICAMENT ONCE BEFORE I HEADED TO THE DEALERSHIP. THE MERE FACT THAT THE DEALERSHIP SEEMED TO BE AWARE OF THIS EXCESSIVE CARBON PROBLEM MAKES ME FEEL THAT THEY DO, INDEED, HAVE SOME RESPONSIBILITY TO THIS ISSUE. I HAVE READ COMPLAINT AFTER COMPLAINT ON THE INTERNET REGARDING THIS PROBLEM. ONE UNFORTUNATE MAN WAS HIT BY A GASOLINE TRUCK WHEN THIS OCCURRED. IT'S UNFORTUNATE THAT MORE PEOPLE DON'T KNOW TO COME HERE AND FILE A FORMAL COMPLAINT RATHER THAN POSTING ON BLOGS TO TRY TO HELP OTHERS. I IMPLORE WHOMEVER HAS THE AUTHORITY TO INVESTIGATE THIS MATTER BEFORE SOMEONE IS KILLED. *TR