2010 Mazda CX-9 Problems

The break booster went out without any warning or indicators while driving almost resulting in a collision. There are no warning lights on the dashboard.

Stiff brake pedal , more effort to stop and longer distant to stop.

Water pump failure causing catastrophic engine damage

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda CX-9. The contact stated while conducting a routine check, he noticed that the coolant and the oil levels were low. An independent mechanic diagnosed that the coolant was leaking into the engine. The vehicle was not repaired. An unknown dealer was contacted and informed the contact that the VIN was not included in a recall related to the failure. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000.

I had engine failure with a complete loss of power and a shuttering of the steering wheel while pulling into a parking lot and going less than 30 miles per hour. The temperature gauze went from cold to hot suddenly. There were no leaks of coolant or oil and no signs that the engine was out of water or that the water pump had "melted". On the final car repair trip we found out that the engine has an internal water pump that failed and resulted in oil & water getting into the engine. The engine light NEVER came on, I had complained about the tire pressure light blinking on and off in November 2021 and the deceleration issue I was having. The dealer did a coolant flush 11/2021. In early March 2022 the engine shut off as I was backing out of the driveway. I took it to a repair shop nearby they could not find anything wrong except that the car went into limp mode. They also did a coolant flush and radiator cap exchange since I forgot I had just done one on Nov. Less that a week later the engine failed again. We towed the car to the dealer for the third trip in less than four months. I am really disappointed that Mazda failed to recall the engine. I could have been seriously hurt if I had been traveling at high speeds. The CX9 had less than 135,000 miles at 12 years old.

The AWD system failed leaving the car dangerous to drive in rain and snowy weather. Car is still stuck in my driveway as the front wheels are spinning and no power to the rear wheels. My Mother's AWD with similar M+S tires drove out with no problems. Waiting for the snow to melt to be able to take my car into the shop. Reading online this seems like a known Mazda issue.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda CX-9. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V782000 (Air Bags). The contact called the dealer and was advised to tow the vehicle to the dealer for the recall repair. The contact stopped driving the vehicle due to the recall. The contact attempted to call the dealer for an alternative mode of transporting the vehicle to the dealer, but the calls were not returned. The manufacturer was contacted, and the contact was referred to the dealer for assistance. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact had not experienced a failure.

DRIVING VEHICLE LESS THAN 5 MPH, IN LINE, AFTER PICKING UP KID FROM SCHOOL. ALL SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAGS EXPLODED/DEPLOYED, FOR NO REASON. VEHICLE WAS NOT HIT. OTHER DRIVERS HEARD AND WITNESSED THE EXPLOSION/DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIRBAGS. PULLED CAR TO SIDE AS BEST AS POSSIBLE, AS THE AIRBAG CURTAINS COMPLETELY BLOCKED THE SIDE WINDOWS.

Front suspension broke while my husband was driving back from a fire as he is a volunteer firefighter. He states car did not have any lights on dash to report there was a problem. The next thing he knew he heard a loud squealing noise and lost control of the vehicle taking him off road in a small ditch. As the axle broke it went upward and hit both belts and shredded them. He was not able to move or drive the car at all. I am the owner of this vehicle had I been driving I would have totaled and crashed,also I do have A [XXX] son I drive to school most days. Thank goodness my husband is a heck of a driver. I have contacted the Mazda manufacturer and they are stating that the vehicle was already fixed that they will not do a safety remedy. As I found out there was a 8515G recall for the front suspension interior corroding. I just purchased this vehicle on 2/24/2026 it broke on 3/19/2026. The vehicle states to have been fixed in 2017. I have the inspection papers from the previous dealer from whom I bought it from in 2021 and the one from the dealer that I purchased it and that inspection was in 2025. There has been no inspections after I purchased or after the catastrophic failure happened I am in process of this and my insurance is the next I'm contacting. There was no police report as there was only damage done to the vehicle,luckily no one else was involved and my husband was ok. We have never dealt with this before and didn't really know what to do or how to go about this. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Driver side Lower control arm fail off from the ball joint

Driver side Lower control arm fail off from the ball joint

TOOK MY CAR TO DEALER 2-3 TIMES FOR THE BRAKES, WAY BEFORE MY WARRANTY WAS ANY WHERE NEAR EXPIRING, BECAUSE I KEPT HEARING A GRINDING SOUND. THEY KEPT TELLING ME NOTHING WAS WRONG, THAT MY BRAKES HAD SOME GRAVEL ON THEM AND THEY JUST CLEANED THEM. I DON'T TRAVEL ON DIRT ROADS OR ANYTHING, CITY ROADS/HIGHWAYS. NO OUT OF TOWN TRAVEL AT ALL, ACTUAL ONLY IN TOWN TRAVEL, HOME/WORK. MY 2ND CONCERN IS, WHILE DRIVING SOMETIMES MY SPEED SEEMS TO SHIFT, AS IF THE GEARS ARE SHIFTING. 3RD CONCERN IS, I RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE, DON'T RECALL WHAT IT WAS ABOUT BUT I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I WAS TOLD THEY DONE THAT WORK LAST TIME I CAME IN BUT I DON'T BELIEVE IT WAS DONE, SINCE THEY HAVEN'T BEEN HONEST WITH ME BEFORE. THEY DIDN'T EVEN LOOK AT THE LETTER. IF I RECALL CORRECTLY BRAKE COMPLAINTS/ SERVICE STARTED 2011 OR 2012 TO 2014....

I had engine failure with a complete loss of power and a shuttering of the steering wheel while pulling into a parking lot and going less than 30 miles per hour. The temperature gauze went from cold to hot suddenly. There were no leaks of coolant or oil and no signs that the engine was out of water or that the water pump had "melted". On the final car repair trip we found out that the engine has an internal water pump that failed and resulted in oil & water getting into the engine. The engine light NEVER came on, I had complained about the tire pressure light blinking on and off in November 2021 and the deceleration issue I was having. The dealer did a coolant flush 11/2021. In early March 2022 the engine shut off as I was backing out of the driveway. I took it to a repair shop nearby they could not find anything wrong except that the car went into limp mode. They also did a coolant flush and radiator cap exchange since I forgot I had just done one on Nov. Less that a week later the engine failed again. We towed the car to the dealer for the third trip in less than four months. I am really disappointed that Mazda failed to recall the engine. I could have been seriously hurt if I had been traveling at high speeds. The CX9 had less than 135,000 miles at 12 years old.

I PURCHASED A 2010 CX9 ABOUT A MONTH AGO AND GOT PULLED OVER LAST NIGHT FOR MY DRIVER SIDE HEAD LIGHT BEING OUT, I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP AND WAS CHARGED $194 FOR THE BULB REPLACEMENT, BUT IT DID NOT WORK AND WAS CHARGED ANOTHER $130 FOR DIAGNOSTICS . THEY FOUND OUT THAT THE BALLAST HAS BLOWN OUT DUE TO CONDENSATION IN THE HEADLIGHT AND NOW THEY ARE GOING TO CHARGE ME AGAIN FOR THE BALLAST AND LABOR

Driving on I-5, near Gold Hill, Oregon, when the traction control system light came on and the Vehicle slowed down. I had to push the gas pedal to the floor to get the car to move and I could not shift gears! It shuddered and the wheels seemed to lock up. I could smell burning rubber. I forced the car to the next exit, pulled off and shut it down. I sat there waiting for it to cool off. When I started it again it was a little rough at first but then seemed to get better and I was able to get home. I bought the car in June of 2020 from Lithia Motors in Medford, Oregon. I also bought a Power Train Warranty For $2,500 which was set to expire on 6/10/2021. I called Lithia and made an appointment to take it to them for repairs on June 1, 2021. I got as far as Grants Pass, OR, and it did the same thing I described above. I called a tow truck and had it towed to Lithia in Medford. When I got to Medford, the Service Manager told me I would have to take it to Crater Lake Ford. When I got to Crater Lake Ford I was told to take it to Crater Lake Mazda which I did. I described in detail what the car was doing to.the Service.Manager and told him I feared it was some kind of transmission problem. I also told him I had a power Train. Warranty the would expire on June10thso time was no the essence! I never suspected the brakes because we had the bakes repaired in November of 2020 at Lithia Motors. They were making a hissing sound. They replaced the.brake booster among other brake parts for $1,300 plus. That job was still under warranty. I got a call on June 15th telling me the problem was in the gear shift. He said it was now repaired and I could come and pick it up. I paid $674 for that repair. I got three miles from the dealership and the original problem occurred. I had it towed back to Mazda and it has been there ever since!! They replaced they're (traction control module), but that didn't fix it. After test driving it the original problem occurred! It's still at Mazda.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA CX9. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 5 MPH AROUND A ROUNDABOUT, THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE DETACHED INDEPENDENTLY WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO MODERN MAZDA,68 WATERBURY RD, LJ CT 06787 BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED. THE DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR WAS STILL PENDING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND A CASE WAS OPENED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 135,000.

WE TOOK OUR 2010 CX-9 WITH 99,000 MILES THE MAZDA DEALER IN UNION NJ BECAUSE OF A NOISE IN THE CAR AND WERE TOLD THAT THE REAR SUBFRAME HAS ROTTED OUT AND IS DESTROYING THE REAR DIFF MOUNTING BOLTS. WE WERE ALSO TOLD THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS ALSO ROTTED OUT AND THE VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. IF WE GO OVER A POT HOLE, THE WHOLE UNDERCARRIAGE OF CAR CAN FALL OUT. THIS CAR WAS NOT KEPT AT THE BEACH AND WELL MAINTAINED.

I'VE OWN MY 2010 CX-9 SINCE NEW, AT 96K MILES THE BOLT MOUNT FOR THE HATCH BACK POWER LIFT RIPPED OUT OF THE SHEET METAL OF THE HATCH WITH A PIECE OF METAL AND BOLT FLYING. I USE THE CAR ONLY FOR PRIVATE USE AND NO HEAVY DUTY USAGE. BOLT LOOKED RUSTED (SORRY I THROUGH IT AWAY). THE MAZDA DEALER TELLS ME THAT IT IS A VERY UNCOMMON OCCURRENCE, AND THAT IS NOT COVERED BY MAZDA. I SEE IN BLOGS THAT IT IS NOT THAT UNCOMMON. THE BOLT AND METAL BREAKING MAY CAUSE GLASS BREAKAGE OR DAMAGE TO SOMEONE WHILE THE DOOR IS BEING OPENED. SEE: HTTP://FORUMS.EDMUNDS.COM/DISCUSSION/12710/MAZDA/CX-9/MAZDA-CX-9-POWER-LIFT-GATE-PROBLEM HTTP://WWW.MAZDAS247.COM/FORUM/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?123815687-CX9-POWER-TAILGATE-ISSUES

I'VE REPLACED THE PASSENGER SIDE LOW BEAM LIGHT ON MY 2010 MAZDA CX-9 YEARLY FOR THE PAST 4 YEARS THINKING THE BULB WAS BLOWN. ONLY TO HAVE THE SOCKET WIGGLE LOOSE SHORTLY AFTER INSTALLING THE BULB. I'VE BEEN PULLED OVER AT NIGHT FOR THE 2ND TIME LAST WEEK FOR THE BULB BEING OUT - BUT I KNOW IT WAS ON WHEN I LEFT THE DRIVEWAY. THE SOCKET DOESN'T HOLD THE BULB IN TIGHT. YOU CAN TAP THE LENS AND GET THE BULB TO COME BACK ON (SOMETIMES) ONLY UNTIL YOU HIT ANOTHER POT HOLE - THEN EVENTUALLY THE BULB BLOWS AGAIN. THERE ARE OVER 100 SIMILAR MAZDA COMPLAINTS - MOSTLY PASSENGER SIDE. OBVIOUSLY THIS IS A MAZDA SAFETY ISSUE. MY KIDS DON'T NEED TO HAVE THE ANXIETY OF THEIR MOM BEING PULLED OVER WHEN DRIVING THEM HOME AFTER DARK, BECAUSE REST ASSURED THE AMERICAN MADE POLICE CAR BLUE LIGHTS ALWAYS WORK! I HAVE A CLEAN DRIVING RECORD SO LUCKILY I DON'T GET A TICKET AND JUST SENT ON MY WAY TO ONCE AGAIN FIX A BULB THAT ISN'T BROKEN! THIS SHOULD BE A MAZDA RECALL BECAUSE IF I CAN'T GET A STICKER WITH A BULB OUT THEN IT'S A "SAFETY ISSUE"! PLEASE HELP!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA CX-9. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHTS FAILED TO OPERATE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT CONDENSATION ENTERED THE HEAD LAMP ASSEMBLY AND CAUSED THE FUSE TO BECOME INOPERABLE. THE HEAD LAMP ASSEMBLY WAS REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

HEADREST LEANS TOO FAR FORWARD CAUSING STRAIN ON ENTIRE BODY ESPECIALLY ON BACK AND NECK. BOUGHT AFTER MARKET HEADREST AND REPLACED IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA CX-9. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED HE ACCIDENTALLY LOCKED THE DOORS WITH THE REMOTE KEY AND THE PASSENGER WAS LOCKED IN THE VEHICLE. THE DOORS FAILED TO UNLOCK MANUALLY FROM THE INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE WHO FILED A REPORT AND DID NOT OFFER ANY ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 35,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 35,572.

I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY GETTING OFF AN EXIT, AND I HAD MY KIDS IN MY CAR AND ALL OF A SUDDEN AS I AM SLOWING DOWN TO COME TO A STOP TO TURN OFF THE EXIT MY CAR STEERING AND BRAKES LOCKED UP AND EVERYTHING SHUT DOWN. LUCKILY I LIVE IN WALKING DISTANCE TO THE EXIT RAMP BECAUSE SOMEONE STOPPED AND HELPED ME PUSH MY CAR TO MY HOUSE. THEY HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL BUT IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO MOVE THE STEERING WHEEL. NEVER HAD ANY ISSUES WITH LEAKS OR ANYTHING LIKE THIS. THE CAR SMELLED LIKE ANTIFREEZE AND WAS RUNNING HOT. I LET IT COOL OFF. IT WAS THE WATER PUMP THAT WAS LEAKING AND WENT OUT. IT WAS NOT ABLE TO BE DRIVEN. I RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL AND THERE IS A LAWSUIT ABOUT THIS EXACT ISSUE. THERE ARE ALL KINDS OF COMPLAINTS AND THERE DEFINITELY SHOULD BE A RECALL.

CONTROL ARM/BALL JOINTS- HAD TO HAVE REPLACED AGAIN ON 9/21/18 AFTER BOTH BEING REPLACED ON 1/12/2016 AS PART OF A RECALL. FEELS LIKE THE CAR IS TRYING TO STEER ITSELF AND NOT VERY SAFE TO DRIVE. AND THEN HAVE TO PAY FOR ANOTHER ALIGNMENT WHICH I JUST HAD DONE AS WELL. THERE SHOULD BE SOME TYPE OF WARRANTY ON A RECALL REPAIR.

THE RUBBER SEALANT ON THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IS COMING LOOSE FROM THE CAR. THE HEATER NOR THE AIR CONDITIONER IS WORKING. UDERNEATH THE DASHBOARD GET VERY HOT THAT I CAN DRIVE THE CAR

VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN A GARAGE (NOT HEATED) AFTER TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 18 MILES FROM WORK WITH TEMPERATURES IN THE TEENS. AFTER BEING PARKED IN THE GARAGE UNATTENDED FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 MINUTES, THE SUNROOF EXPLODED. THE SOUND COULD BE HEARD FROM INSIDE THE HOUSE. WHEN I INVESTIGATED, THE REMAINING GLASS THAT WAS STILL IN TACT WAS POINTED TOWARDS THE CEILING OF THE GARAGE. WHILE TAKING PICTURES, THE GLASS CONTINUED TO CRACK, POP, AND EXPLODE INTO THE AIR AND ONTO THE HOOD OF THE CAR. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY GETTING OFF AN EXIT, AND I HAD MY KIDS IN MY CAR AND ALL OF A SUDDEN AS I AM SLOWING DOWN TO COME TO A STOP TO TURN OFF THE EXIT MY CAR STEERING AND BRAKES LOCKED UP AND EVERYTHING SHUT DOWN. LUCKILY I LIVE IN WALKING DISTANCE TO THE EXIT RAMP BECAUSE SOMEONE STOPPED AND HELPED ME PUSH MY CAR TO MY HOUSE. THEY HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL BUT IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO MOVE THE STEERING WHEEL. NEVER HAD ANY ISSUES WITH LEAKS OR ANYTHING LIKE THIS. THE CAR SMELLED LIKE ANTIFREEZE AND WAS RUNNING HOT. I LET IT COOL OFF. IT WAS THE WATER PUMP THAT WAS LEAKING AND WENT OUT. IT WAS NOT ABLE TO BE DRIVEN. I RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL AND THERE IS A LAWSUIT ABOUT THIS EXACT ISSUE. THERE ARE ALL KINDS OF COMPLAINTS AND THERE DEFINITELY SHOULD BE A RECALL.

THE VEHICLE STALLS WHEN IDLING AT A STOP LIGHT OR IN A DRIVE THRU. THE VEHICLES MOTOR BEGINS TO SHAKE AND THEN EVENTUALLY DIES AND STALLS OUT AND THE VEHICLE MUST BE STARTED AGAIN WITH THE TURN OF THE IGNITION. THE BRAKING SYSTEM IS ALSO DEFECTIVE. WHEN AT A STOP LIGHT AND YOUR FOOT IS ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THE PEDAL SUDDENLY SINKS AS IF THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE MASTER CYLINDER HAS DRAINED FULLY AND THE BRAKE PEDAL SINKS ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND THE VEHICLE SHOOTS FORWARD EVEN IF YOUR FOOT IS ON THE BRAKE. ANOTHER PROBLEM IS IN THE POWER DOOR LOCK SYSTEM. THERE HAS BEEN A TIME WHEN THE POWER DOOR LOCK WAS STUCK AND THE REAR RIGHT DOOR COULD NOT BE SHUT. I HAD TO DRIVE THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP WITH THE CAR DOOR FLOPPING ALL OVER THE PLACE. THEY WERE ABLE TO FIX IT AT THE DEALERSHIP BUT COULD NOT FIGURE OUT HOW IT OCCURRED. THEY WERE AS PUZZLED AS I WAS. THE CAR WAS BOUGHT BACK IN 2010 BRAND NEW FROM THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP. THE REVIEWS WERE GOOD FOR THE VEHICLE. ITS THE FIRST MAZDA WE PURCHASED AND IS PROBABLY GOING TO BE THE LAST. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA CX9. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE TIRE PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMAL NOISE. THE CONTACT MERGED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND REPLACED THE TIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE VALVE STEM FRACTURED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

I WAS DRIVING ON A STREET WITH A 25 MPH SPEED LIMIT WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR HESITATED AND MADE SOME WEIRD NOISES. I CONTINUED TO PULL OVER TO GET OUT OF THE WAY WHEN THERE WAS A HUGE BANG AND THE CAR CAME TO AN SUDDEN STOP. I WAS ABLE TO GET TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. SMOKE WAS COMING OUT OF THE ENGINE AREA AND THE CAR SMELLED TERRIBLE. I JUMPED OUT, GOT MY DOG OUT AND CALLED 911. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT AND POLICE CAME. FOUND METAL PARTS ALL OVER THE ROAD. SMOKE WAS MAINLY DUE TO OIL THAT WAS ALL OVER THE ENGINE AND BOTTOM OF CAR. RIGHT NOW THE INITIAL DIAGNOSIS IS THAT THE TRANSFER CASING BLEW ALONG WITH A VARIETY OF OTHER PARTS. THANK GOODNESS I WAS NOT ON THE FREEWAY. ADDITIONALLY, I WAS LUCKY THAT THE LARGE PARTS THAT BLEW OFF THE CAR DID NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF MY CAR OR DAMAGE SOMEONE ELSE'S CAR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA CX9. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V356000 (AIR BAGS); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S INDICATORS SHOWED THAT ALL SYSTEMS WERE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY; HOWEVER, THE AIR BAGS AND SEAT BELTS WERE MALFUNCTIONING. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE CONTACT STRUCK A BARREL AND THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE BECAME DETACHED. THE CONTACT STRUCK THE STEERING WHEEL AND DASHBOARD. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT RECEIVED INJURIES TO THE HEAD AND CHEST, BUT DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE AIR BAG REPAIR WAS NOT PROVIDED DUE TO PARTS UNAVAILABILITY. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 18,000. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.