There’s a recal in my current steering wheel of the 2006 Mazda 3 sedan i recently purchased
- NHTSA ID
- 11584697
- Incident
- Mar 1, 2024
Reports submitted to NHTSA by owners and drivers, shown in full
Data refreshed
Our database holds 166 NHTSA owner-reported complaints for the 2006 Mazda Mazda3. Each one is a report filed by an owner or driver and published by NHTSA without most of them being verified. A complaint is not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. Narratives are shown exactly as filed.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Showing 1–25 of 166 · page 1 of 7
There’s a recal in my current steering wheel of the 2006 Mazda 3 sedan i recently purchased
The rear driver's side trailing arm broke into two pieces.
Im having issues with rust the car it’s getting pretty much the car it’s falling apart the under body it’s nothing but rust I’m scared of changing a tire because there’s actually not a good grip where I can lift the car without feeling it’s going to fall apart, the rear or the disks it’s falling by chunks and just yesterday the rear shock plate broke out of place because it’s way too rust same thing with my muffler I don’t feel safe I’m My car which I love, I truly do but I feel like at any minute its just going to break apart right now it’s the shock rear driver side but I feel like next a tire or my brake disks are going to break like I said I don’t even feel safe to change a tire
When I take the key out of the ignition the car doesn't recognize the key is out and won't stop beeping. I can't use the key fob to lock or unlock the car. I have to use the original door key to lock and unlock or the alarm will go off. I have replace the ignition switch cylinder 2 times and it still doesnt work. There is a little bit of "play" that is keeping it from not beeping and beeping. I can take it out slowly and it will work but then it slips again and I get locked out of the car and the alarm goes off again until I use the key to manually unlock the car door.
The contact owned a 2006 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving approximately 25 mph when the driver-side airbag deployed without warning which resulted in the contact losing control of the vehicle. The contact was the only injured and sought medical treatment. The contact sustained bruising on the right wrist and chest. A police report was taken and the vehicle was towed to a police lot where it was diagnosed as destroyed. The contact stated no warning lights were illuminated. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable
This vehicle has one unrepaired recall. When I tried to make an appointment with the Mazda dealer to correct it, no recall is found after giving my VIN number. Is there any other way to have them repair it?
My 2006 Mazda was in a serious accident last month and my air bag did not inflate properly along with the warning logo a few days before the accident. My car was picked up and released to Geico yesterday for inspection from their at fault driver totalling my vehicle. It was a head on collision so the air bag is a big factor in a serious wreck. It was confirmed to have an active recall. The warning logo appeared on my dash right before the accident that caused a broken and dislocated hip resulting into two surgeries and a long recovery period.
TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HER SON WHO OWNED A 2006 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE HER SON WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH AND CRASHED INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE TOWING A TRAILER, WHICH FLIPPED THE VEHICLE UPSIDE DOWN AND DRAGGED THE VEHICLE FOR UNKNOWN MILES. THE CONTACT STATED NO AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. THE CONTACT STATED HER SON WAS HAD HIS HAND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND LOST 4 FINGERS ON HIS LEFT HAND AND HAD A BRAIN BLEED. MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS SOUGHT FOR HIS INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE INSURANCE DEEMED THE VEHICLE LOSS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. *DT CONSUMER STATED VEHICLE FLIPPED 5 OR 6 TIMES, IT FINALLY ENDED UP UPSIDE DOWN AFTER AND AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOYED. *JB SKIDDING 600 FEET, NO AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.*JB*LN
I HAVE, HAD (2), TWO BRAND NEW SET, OF TIRES FROM FIRESTONE PUT ON THIS CAR. I WAS ALSO TOLD ONLY THOSE TWO SETS CAN ONLY BE PUT ON THIS MAZDA 3. THE CAR KEEP BUCKING ON EVERY STREET AND EVERY ROAD. EVERY DAY AND EVENING.
LETTER EXPRESSING CONCERNS REGARDING MAZDA'S RECALL FOR TAKATA AIR BAGS. *LD THE CONSUMER WAS INFORMED THE VEHICLE WAS NOT APART OF THE RECALL. *JS
TAKATA AIRBAG RECALL, MY 2006 MAZDA IS LISTED AS ONE OF THE CARS NOTED FOR THE TAKATA RECALL. PLEASE ADVISE.
TAKATA RECALL MY PASSENGER AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON A FEW MONTHS AGO. IT HAS STAYED ON.
DRIVING MY WAY TO WORK THE CAR SUDDENLY STOP AND JERK FROM TRANSMISSION GEAR ALSO ON REVERSE I RUN DIAGNOSTICS AND CAME OUT TO BE TCM (TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE) I BOUGHT ANOTHER ONE FROM LKQ USE, AND REPLACED AND THE CAR START WORKING FINE AGAIN THEN AFTER ABOUT ALMOST 2 YEARS I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY AND SUDDENLY AND THE AT LIGHTS CAME ON AND ALMOST HAVE AND ACCIDENTS THIS TIME.MY MECHANIC RUN A TEST WITH SAME RESULTS TCM NOT COMMUNICATION WITH TRANSMISSION. I RESEARCH THIS AND THERE'S A LOT OF PROBLEM WITH TCM OUT THERE BUT I GUEST THAT PEOPLE HAVEN'T COMPLAINT , THIS IS ISSUE THE MAZDA KNOW AND THEY HAVEN'T DONE NOTHING ABOUT IT. THANK YOU AND HOPE THE MAZDA OPEN RECALL ON THE TCM. MAZDA 3 2006
MY ENGINE HAS A SUDDEN BURST OF ACCELERATION. I HAVE TO ALWAYS BE READY TO DROP IT INTO NEUTRAL IT HAPPENS UPON THE CAR STARTING TO MOVE
THIS VEHICLE'S VIN CANNOT BE LOCATED IN ANY SYSTEM WHATSOEVER. NOT EVEN IN THE MAZDA DATA BASE. I NEED TO ATTEND IT'S RECALLS.
MY CAR HAS BEEN LIKE LOOSING POWER WHEN IN STUCK IN TRAFFIC TO THE POINT IT GAS SHUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY AND TURNS THE POWER STEERING LIGHT. NOW WHEN I PUT GAS ON IT AND TURN IT ON IT TURNS OFF SEEMS TO BE ELECTRICAL BUT MY MECHANIC TOLD ME IT MUST BE POWER STEERING PUMP GWTTING DEFECTIVE. WELL NOW IT HAS NO POWER STEERING BUT IT DOSENT SHOW THE LIGHT ON THE PANEL EITHER.
AIRBAG LIGHT HAS COME ONE AND STAYS ON. THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS AND DISCUSSION OF THIS ISSUE.
WHILE DRIVING THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS FROM A HIGH GEAR TO A LOW GEAR AND SHAKES VIOLENTLY
WHILE DRIVING ON A CITY STREET, I STARTED TO HEAR A BANGING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF MY CAR. WHEN I GOT HOME AND CHECKED IT OUT, I SAW THAT THE REAR SHOCK MOUNT HAD BUSTED FROM WHERE IT IS BOLTED INTO THE WHEEL WELL. IT HAS CRACKED ACROSS THE ENTIRE MOUNT FROM BOLT TO BOLT. IT'S ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE IT HAPPENS TO THE OTHER REAR SHOCK.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE SEATS OF THE VEHICLE WERE COMING APART FROM THE BASE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (HODGES MAZDA AT THE AVENUES, 10681 PHILIPS HWY, JACKSONVILLE, FL 32256) AND REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.
I STARTED NOTICING A STRONG SMELL OF GASOLINE INSIDE THE CAR WHENEVER I TURNED ON AC. I THOUGHT IT COULD BE BECAUSE OF SOME LEAK BUT THERE WAS NO LEAK ANYWHERE OUTSIDE THE CAR. I HAVE BEEN USING THE CAR FOR THE COMMUTE JUST WITHIN THE CITY LIMITS. WHEN THE SMELL CONTINUED TO EXIST I TOOK IT TO EARNHARDT MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN SCOTTSDALE AZ WHERE I WAS TOLD THAT IT COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH THE FUEL PUMP AND IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. BUT TO MAKE SURE I WENT TO FIRESTONE AS WELL WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THE FUEL PUMP HAS A LEAK AND NEEDS REPLACEMENT. I HAD TO STOP DRIVING THIS CAR FURTHER BECAUSE I WAS TOLD THAT THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS. THIS CAR NEVER WENT THROUGH ANY CRASH AND HAS BEEN MAINTAINED REGULARLY. THE SUMMERS IN AZ ARE REALLY HOT SO I'M NOT SURE IF THIS COULD HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. IS THERE ANY CHANCE THAT MAZDA CAN INVESTIGATE THIS AND PROVIDE A REPLACEMENT FOR THIS COMPONENT?
CAR CONTINUINGLY SHOWS EVAP DTCS INCLUDING P0443 AND P0446 AS WELL AS EITHER TOO RICH OR TOO LEAN FUEL MIXTURE AND AND O2 SENSOR ISSUE CODE. BOTH O2 SENSORS WERE REPLACE PREVIOUSLY. THE MAIN CONCERN IS DANGEROUS AND HAS ALREADY ALMOST CAUSED SEVERAL ACCIDENTS WHILE THE ISSUE HAS OCCURRED AFTER DRIVING FROM A STOPPED POSITION. THE ISSUE IS, WHEN THE VEHICLE STOPS AT 0 MPH, THE NORMAL IDLING RPM SPEED IS AROUND 750RPM. DURING STOPS LONGER THAN A SECOND, THE CAR WILL LOWER THE IDLE RPMS TO ABOUT 500RPM AND STAY UNTIL THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED. WHEN THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED THE VEHICLE HESITATES AND COMES CLOSE TO STALLING. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT POWER THE WHEELS ABOVE ABOUT 1000RPMS WHEN THE THROTTLE IS FULLY DEPRESSED AND THE CAR WILL HESITATE UNTIL THE CAR STARTS TO GRADUALLY MOVE FORWARD. THIS ALL IS HAPPENING IN THE INTERSECTION. AS THE CAR GETS TO THE INTERSECTION, THE CAR STARTS TO PICK UP TO ABOUT 1000 TO 1500RPM AND ONLY THEN WILL THE CAR START TO FULLY DRIVE FORWARD WITHOUT RELATION TO DRIVER'S FORCED DEPRESSION OF THE THROTTLE. BASICALLY THE VEHICLE IS DEFIANTLY NOT GOING ABOVE 1500RPM UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS A CERTAIN WAYS FORWARD. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND I HAVE ALREADY HAD VERY CLOSE CALLS WITH A DODGE DURANGO, A TRACTOR TRAILER, AN UNIDENTIFIED SEDAN, AND A TOYOTA PRIUS (OF ALL THE VEHICLES IN THE WORLD). I WAS ALMOST "T-BONED" BY A PRIUS. THIS ISSUE IS I BELIEVE TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM OR ENGINE AS THIS ISSUE ONLY REALLY OCCURS WHEN IT IS VERY VERY HUMID OR HOT OUT. USUALLY ABOVE 80 DEGREES WITH ANY HUMIDITY AT ALL. COULD BE A VAPORLOCK, ALTHOUGH SOMEWHAT UNUSUAL FOR A FUEL INJECTED VEHICLE, IT ISN'T IMPOSSIBLE.
STARTED VEHICLE AND POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON, NO POWER STEERING AVAILABLE. WENT OUT LESS THAN 2 MINUTES LATER. DROVE TO WORK AND AFTER WORK STARTED VEHICLE. LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN, NO POWER STEERING, AND REMAINED THAT WAY INTERMITTENTLY FOR 45 MINUTE DRIVE HOME, MOSTLY ON. VEHICLE PARKED SINCE.
APPROACHING A REDLIGHT AT A HIGHWAY INTERSECTION, MY SON PRESSED HIS FOOT DOWN ON ON THE BRAKE AND THE BRAKES FAILED. THE PEDAL WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND DID NOT WORK AT ALL AND RESULTED IN AN ACCIDENT THAT DESTROYED THE CAR AND INJURED THE OCCUPANTS OF THE CAR HE STRUCK. THE CAR WAS PURCHASED USED. THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD THE BRAKES COMPLETELY REPAIRED WHEN THE SAME THING HAD HAPPENED WHILE BRAKING. I WAS NOT AWARE OF THE SPECIFICS OF THE BRAKE REPAIR UNTIL AFTER THE ACCIDENT WHEN I INQUIRED AS TO WHY HE HAD REPLACED THE BRAKE BOOSTER PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE. INTERNET SEARCHES AFTER THE ACCIDENT SEEMED TO INDICATE THAT THIS HAPPENED WITH SOME FREQUENCY TO OTHERS AND I WANTED TO MAKE SURE I LET SOMEONE KNOW.
DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WENT TO MAKE A TURN AND NO POWER STEERING THE LIGHT CAME ON AND HAS SINCE CUT ON AND OFF AGAIN WORKING. WE REPLACED THE PUMP WITH ANOTHER PUMP JUST THE OTHER DAY AND IT DOES THE SAME THING.. THIS IS NOT VERY SAFE WHEN TURNING IT WOULD KICK ON AND WORK AFTER NOT WORKING RIGHT WHEN YOU WERE TRYING HARD TO TURN AND MAKING YOU LOSE CONTROL.
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