2006 Mazda Mazda3 Problems

MY ENGINE HAS A SUDDEN BURST OF ACCELERATION. I HAVE TO ALWAYS BE READY TO DROP IT INTO NEUTRAL IT HAPPENS UPON THE CAR STARTING TO MOVE

CAR CONTINUINGLY SHOWS EVAP DTCS INCLUDING P0443 AND P0446 AS WELL AS EITHER TOO RICH OR TOO LEAN FUEL MIXTURE AND AND O2 SENSOR ISSUE CODE. BOTH O2 SENSORS WERE REPLACE PREVIOUSLY. THE MAIN CONCERN IS DANGEROUS AND HAS ALREADY ALMOST CAUSED SEVERAL ACCIDENTS WHILE THE ISSUE HAS OCCURRED AFTER DRIVING FROM A STOPPED POSITION. THE ISSUE IS, WHEN THE VEHICLE STOPS AT 0 MPH, THE NORMAL IDLING RPM SPEED IS AROUND 750RPM. DURING STOPS LONGER THAN A SECOND, THE CAR WILL LOWER THE IDLE RPMS TO ABOUT 500RPM AND STAY UNTIL THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED. WHEN THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED THE VEHICLE HESITATES AND COMES CLOSE TO STALLING. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT POWER THE WHEELS ABOVE ABOUT 1000RPMS WHEN THE THROTTLE IS FULLY DEPRESSED AND THE CAR WILL HESITATE UNTIL THE CAR STARTS TO GRADUALLY MOVE FORWARD. THIS ALL IS HAPPENING IN THE INTERSECTION. AS THE CAR GETS TO THE INTERSECTION, THE CAR STARTS TO PICK UP TO ABOUT 1000 TO 1500RPM AND ONLY THEN WILL THE CAR START TO FULLY DRIVE FORWARD WITHOUT RELATION TO DRIVER'S FORCED DEPRESSION OF THE THROTTLE. BASICALLY THE VEHICLE IS DEFIANTLY NOT GOING ABOVE 1500RPM UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS A CERTAIN WAYS FORWARD. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND I HAVE ALREADY HAD VERY CLOSE CALLS WITH A DODGE DURANGO, A TRACTOR TRAILER, AN UNIDENTIFIED SEDAN, AND A TOYOTA PRIUS (OF ALL THE VEHICLES IN THE WORLD). I WAS ALMOST "T-BONED" BY A PRIUS. THIS ISSUE IS I BELIEVE TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM OR ENGINE AS THIS ISSUE ONLY REALLY OCCURS WHEN IT IS VERY VERY HUMID OR HOT OUT. USUALLY ABOVE 80 DEGREES WITH ANY HUMIDITY AT ALL. COULD BE A VAPORLOCK, ALTHOUGH SOMEWHAT UNUSUAL FOR A FUEL INJECTED VEHICLE, IT ISN'T IMPOSSIBLE.

MY CAR HAS BEEN LIKE LOOSING POWER WHEN IN STUCK IN TRAFFIC TO THE POINT IT GAS SHUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY AND TURNS THE POWER STEERING LIGHT. NOW WHEN I PUT GAS ON IT AND TURN IT ON IT TURNS OFF SEEMS TO BE ELECTRICAL BUT MY MECHANIC TOLD ME IT MUST BE POWER STEERING PUMP GWTTING DEFECTIVE. WELL NOW IT HAS NO POWER STEERING BUT IT DOSENT SHOW THE LIGHT ON THE PANEL EITHER.

STARTED VEHICLE AND POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON, NO POWER STEERING AVAILABLE. WENT OUT LESS THAN 2 MINUTES LATER. DROVE TO WORK AND AFTER WORK STARTED VEHICLE. LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN, NO POWER STEERING, AND REMAINED THAT WAY INTERMITTENTLY FOR 45 MINUTE DRIVE HOME, MOSTLY ON. VEHICLE PARKED SINCE.

The contact owned a 2006 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving approximately 25 mph when the driver-side airbag deployed without warning which resulted in the contact losing control of the vehicle. The contact was the only injured and sought medical treatment. The contact sustained bruising on the right wrist and chest. A police report was taken and the vehicle was towed to a police lot where it was diagnosed as destroyed. The contact stated no warning lights were illuminated. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable

This vehicle has one unrepaired recall. When I tried to make an appointment with the Mazda dealer to correct it, no recall is found after giving my VIN number. Is there any other way to have them repair it?

When I take the key out of the ignition the car doesn't recognize the key is out and won't stop beeping. I can't use the key fob to lock or unlock the car. I have to use the original door key to lock and unlock or the alarm will go off. I have replace the ignition switch cylinder 2 times and it still doesnt work. There is a little bit of "play" that is keeping it from not beeping and beeping. I can take it out slowly and it will work but then it slips again and I get locked out of the car and the alarm goes off again until I use the key to manually unlock the car door.

MY CAR HAS BEEN LIKE LOOSING POWER WHEN IN STUCK IN TRAFFIC TO THE POINT IT GAS SHUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY AND TURNS THE POWER STEERING LIGHT. NOW WHEN I PUT GAS ON IT AND TURN IT ON IT TURNS OFF SEEMS TO BE ELECTRICAL BUT MY MECHANIC TOLD ME IT MUST BE POWER STEERING PUMP GWTTING DEFECTIVE. WELL NOW IT HAS NO POWER STEERING BUT IT DOSENT SHOW THE LIGHT ON THE PANEL EITHER.

WHILE DRIVING THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS FROM A HIGH GEAR TO A LOW GEAR AND SHAKES VIOLENTLY

TYPICALLY BUT NOT ONLY WHEN TRAVELLING AT HIGH SPEED, THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OF MY 2003 MAZDA 3 SHIFTS DOWN FROM THE 4TH TO THE 3RD GEAR. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO JERK VIOLENTLY AND THE CONTROLS TO ILLUMINATE INCLUDING CHECK ENGINE, NO TRACTION AND AT. MY MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND A CAUSE OF THIS, AND HE SERVICED THE TRANSMISSION BY CHANGING THE FILTER AND TRANSMISSION FLUID BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. HE SUGGESTED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDS TO BE REBUILT. HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED A SIMILAR ISSUE AND IF SO, DID YOU FIGURE OUT WHAT CAUSED IT AND HOW TO FIX IT.

The rear driver's side trailing arm broke into two pieces.

Im having issues with rust the car it’s getting pretty much the car it’s falling apart the under body it’s nothing but rust I’m scared of changing a tire because there’s actually not a good grip where I can lift the car without feeling it’s going to fall apart, the rear or the disks it’s falling by chunks and just yesterday the rear shock plate broke out of place because it’s way too rust same thing with my muffler I don’t feel safe I’m My car which I love, I truly do but I feel like at any minute its just going to break apart right now it’s the shock rear driver side but I feel like next a tire or my brake disks are going to break like I said I don’t even feel safe to change a tire

ALL FOUR TIRES HAVE CRACKS IN THE SIDEWALL, PARALLEL TO THE RIM, CONSISTENT WITH PENDING TREAD SEPARATION FAILURE. TIRES WERE KEPT PROPERLY INFLATED AND ROTATED EVERY 7500 MILES. THEY WERE WELL CARED FOR AND SHOULD HAVE LASTED ANOTHER YEAR OR SO. THE DAMAGE DID NOT LEAD TO A CRASH DUE TO CAREFUL INSPECTION, BUT COULD HAVE EASILY GONE UNDETECTED. ALL TIRES WILL BE REPLACED IMMEDIATELY. *TR

DUNLOP SP SPORT SIGNATURE SIDEWALL SEPARATION. RISK OF SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR VEHICLE DAMAGE COULD RESULT. THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON OCCURRENCE FOR THIS MODEL OF TIRE ON WEB SITES SUCH AS: HTTP://WWW.VEHICLETIRE.COM/COMPLAINT/DUNLOP/SP+SPORT+SIGNATURE. *TR

Im having issues with rust the car it’s getting pretty much the car it’s falling apart the under body it’s nothing but rust I’m scared of changing a tire because there’s actually not a good grip where I can lift the car without feeling it’s going to fall apart, the rear or the disks it’s falling by chunks and just yesterday the rear shock plate broke out of place because it’s way too rust same thing with my muffler I don’t feel safe I’m My car which I love, I truly do but I feel like at any minute its just going to break apart right now it’s the shock rear driver side but I feel like next a tire or my brake disks are going to break like I said I don’t even feel safe to change a tire

I HAVE, HAD (2), TWO BRAND NEW SET, OF TIRES FROM FIRESTONE PUT ON THIS CAR. I WAS ALSO TOLD ONLY THOSE TWO SETS CAN ONLY BE PUT ON THIS MAZDA 3. THE CAR KEEP BUCKING ON EVERY STREET AND EVERY ROAD. EVERY DAY AND EVENING.

Im having issues with rust the car it’s getting pretty much the car it’s falling apart the under body it’s nothing but rust I’m scared of changing a tire because there’s actually not a good grip where I can lift the car without feeling it’s going to fall apart, the rear or the disks it’s falling by chunks and just yesterday the rear shock plate broke out of place because it’s way too rust same thing with my muffler I don’t feel safe I’m My car which I love, I truly do but I feel like at any minute its just going to break apart right now it’s the shock rear driver side but I feel like next a tire or my brake disks are going to break like I said I don’t even feel safe to change a tire

THE BACK REAR WHEEL WELLS COLLECT SO MUCH DIRT AND SALT IT ENDS UP RUSTING IT OUT! THERE NEEDS TO BE PLASTIC COVER FOR THE WHEEL WELLS OR BETTER DRAIN HOLES! I WASH MY CAR EVERY WEEK IN THE WINTER AND IT IS STILL HARD TO PREVENT IT! THE REAR STRUT MOUNT TAKES A TOLL ON THE ABUSE FROM ALL THE SALT AND DIRT THAT COLLECTS NEAR THE TOP WHERE IT IS SCREWED IN! HAD MY STRUT BREAK TWICE IN ONE MONTH! THERE NEEDS TO BE BETTER DRAIN HOLES FOR THE DOORS TOO! *TR

I HAVE, HAD (2), TWO BRAND NEW SET, OF TIRES FROM FIRESTONE PUT ON THIS CAR. I WAS ALSO TOLD ONLY THOSE TWO SETS CAN ONLY BE PUT ON THIS MAZDA 3. THE CAR KEEP BUCKING ON EVERY STREET AND EVERY ROAD. EVERY DAY AND EVENING.

THE BACK REAR WHEEL WELLS COLLECT SO MUCH DIRT AND SALT IT ENDS UP RUSTING IT OUT! THERE NEEDS TO BE PLASTIC COVER FOR THE WHEEL WELLS OR BETTER DRAIN HOLES! I WASH MY CAR EVERY WEEK IN THE WINTER AND IT IS STILL HARD TO PREVENT IT! THE REAR STRUT MOUNT TAKES A TOLL ON THE ABUSE FROM ALL THE SALT AND DIRT THAT COLLECTS NEAR THE TOP WHERE IT IS SCREWED IN! HAD MY STRUT BREAK TWICE IN ONE MONTH! THERE NEEDS TO BE BETTER DRAIN HOLES FOR THE DOORS TOO! *TR

DRIVING MY WAY TO WORK THE CAR SUDDENLY STOP AND JERK FROM TRANSMISSION GEAR ALSO ON REVERSE I RUN DIAGNOSTICS AND CAME OUT TO BE TCM (TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE) I BOUGHT ANOTHER ONE FROM LKQ USE, AND REPLACED AND THE CAR START WORKING FINE AGAIN THEN AFTER ABOUT ALMOST 2 YEARS I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY AND SUDDENLY AND THE AT LIGHTS CAME ON AND ALMOST HAVE AND ACCIDENTS THIS TIME.MY MECHANIC RUN A TEST WITH SAME RESULTS TCM NOT COMMUNICATION WITH TRANSMISSION. I RESEARCH THIS AND THERE'S A LOT OF PROBLEM WITH TCM OUT THERE BUT I GUEST THAT PEOPLE HAVEN'T COMPLAINT , THIS IS ISSUE THE MAZDA KNOW AND THEY HAVEN'T DONE NOTHING ABOUT IT. THANK YOU AND HOPE THE MAZDA OPEN RECALL ON THE TCM. MAZDA 3 2006

VEHICLE HAS HAD, ON SEVERAL DIFFERENT OCCASIONS, BEEN DRIVEN, NOT AT ANY PARTICULAR SPEED AND LOST 4TH GEAR, THE ENGINE LIGHT APPEARS, AN AT LIGHT APPEARS, AND THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED TO DOWNSHIFT THE CAR DOWN TO 3RD GEAR. UPON ME NOTICING THIS. I WAIT UNTIL IT IS SAFE TO STOP AT A RED LIGHT OR STOP SIGN AND MAKE A COMPLETE STOP SHIFT THE CAR INTO PARK AND BACK INTO DRIVE. THIS SEEMS TO FIX THE DISAPPEARANCE AND REMOVAL OF THE 4TH GEAR AS WELL AS THE AT LIGHT, BUT ONLY OCCASIONALLY. IT DOES NOT HOWEVER REMOVE THE ENGINE LIGHT. THOUGH AFTER A FEW DIFFERENT TRIPS ON DIFFERENT DAYS THE LIGHT WILL NOT APPEAR ON START UP AND DOES NOT SHOW UP UNTIL THIS ISSUE HAPPENS AGAIN. THE CAR SHOWS ERROR CODE P0715 AND IS POSSIBLY NEEDING A NEW TRANSMISSION SPEED SENSOR. THIS ISSUE HAS NOT BEEN FIXED.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA3. WHILE DRIVING AT 60 MPH, THE SHIFT SHOCKED AND BUCKED. WHEN THE CONTACT ENGAGED THE BRAKES, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY REVVED. THE VEHICLE SHIFTED BACK UP TO FIFTH GEAR AND FUNCTIONED NORMALLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS NO MATTER THE SPEED. THE FAILURE ALSO OCCURRED WHEN SHIFTING FROM FIRST TO SECOND GEAR. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A SERVICE BULLETIN FOR THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 84,000. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 88,000.

LAST WEEK, AFTER CLIPPING AND GOING OVER A 2 INCH CURB WITH MY LEFT WHEEL TO AVOID ANOTHER CAR IN A PARKING LOT, MY 2006 MAZDA M3 ACCELERATED UNCONTROLLABLY. APPLYING THE BRAKES DID NOT WORK. IN THE END, I SWIPED TWO CARS AND HIT A CEMENT WALL HEAD ON. THIS STOPPED THE CAR AND THANKFULLY I AM ALIVE. HAVE YOU HEARD OF ANY MALFUNCTIONS OF THIS KIND AND HOW DO I GET IT ESCALATED TO MAZDA OR OTHERS TO ENSURE CORRECTIVE ACTION? UPDATED 02/02/09. *LJ

I STARTED NOTICING A STRONG SMELL OF GASOLINE INSIDE THE CAR WHENEVER I TURNED ON AC. I THOUGHT IT COULD BE BECAUSE OF SOME LEAK BUT THERE WAS NO LEAK ANYWHERE OUTSIDE THE CAR. I HAVE BEEN USING THE CAR FOR THE COMMUTE JUST WITHIN THE CITY LIMITS. WHEN THE SMELL CONTINUED TO EXIST I TOOK IT TO EARNHARDT MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN SCOTTSDALE AZ WHERE I WAS TOLD THAT IT COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH THE FUEL PUMP AND IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. BUT TO MAKE SURE I WENT TO FIRESTONE AS WELL WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THE FUEL PUMP HAS A LEAK AND NEEDS REPLACEMENT. I HAD TO STOP DRIVING THIS CAR FURTHER BECAUSE I WAS TOLD THAT THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS. THIS CAR NEVER WENT THROUGH ANY CRASH AND HAS BEEN MAINTAINED REGULARLY. THE SUMMERS IN AZ ARE REALLY HOT SO I'M NOT SURE IF THIS COULD HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. IS THERE ANY CHANCE THAT MAZDA CAN INVESTIGATE THIS AND PROVIDE A REPLACEMENT FOR THIS COMPONENT?

CAR CONTINUINGLY SHOWS EVAP DTCS INCLUDING P0443 AND P0446 AS WELL AS EITHER TOO RICH OR TOO LEAN FUEL MIXTURE AND AND O2 SENSOR ISSUE CODE. BOTH O2 SENSORS WERE REPLACE PREVIOUSLY. THE MAIN CONCERN IS DANGEROUS AND HAS ALREADY ALMOST CAUSED SEVERAL ACCIDENTS WHILE THE ISSUE HAS OCCURRED AFTER DRIVING FROM A STOPPED POSITION. THE ISSUE IS, WHEN THE VEHICLE STOPS AT 0 MPH, THE NORMAL IDLING RPM SPEED IS AROUND 750RPM. DURING STOPS LONGER THAN A SECOND, THE CAR WILL LOWER THE IDLE RPMS TO ABOUT 500RPM AND STAY UNTIL THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED. WHEN THE THROTTLE IS ENGAGED THE VEHICLE HESITATES AND COMES CLOSE TO STALLING. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT POWER THE WHEELS ABOVE ABOUT 1000RPMS WHEN THE THROTTLE IS FULLY DEPRESSED AND THE CAR WILL HESITATE UNTIL THE CAR STARTS TO GRADUALLY MOVE FORWARD. THIS ALL IS HAPPENING IN THE INTERSECTION. AS THE CAR GETS TO THE INTERSECTION, THE CAR STARTS TO PICK UP TO ABOUT 1000 TO 1500RPM AND ONLY THEN WILL THE CAR START TO FULLY DRIVE FORWARD WITHOUT RELATION TO DRIVER'S FORCED DEPRESSION OF THE THROTTLE. BASICALLY THE VEHICLE IS DEFIANTLY NOT GOING ABOVE 1500RPM UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS A CERTAIN WAYS FORWARD. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND I HAVE ALREADY HAD VERY CLOSE CALLS WITH A DODGE DURANGO, A TRACTOR TRAILER, AN UNIDENTIFIED SEDAN, AND A TOYOTA PRIUS (OF ALL THE VEHICLES IN THE WORLD). I WAS ALMOST "T-BONED" BY A PRIUS. THIS ISSUE IS I BELIEVE TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM OR ENGINE AS THIS ISSUE ONLY REALLY OCCURS WHEN IT IS VERY VERY HUMID OR HOT OUT. USUALLY ABOVE 80 DEGREES WITH ANY HUMIDITY AT ALL. COULD BE A VAPORLOCK, ALTHOUGH SOMEWHAT UNUSUAL FOR A FUEL INJECTED VEHICLE, IT ISN'T IMPOSSIBLE.

HEADLIGHTS CONTINUALLY GOING OUT. HAVE TO REPLACE EVERY 6 MONTHS OR APPROX 6,000 MILES. ONE LIGHT GOES OUT, THEN THE OTHER WITHIN A WEEK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA 3. EVERY TIME IT RAINED, WATER ENTERED INTO THE HEADLIGHT COMPARTMENT, WHICH PREVENTED THE AMOUNT OF HEADLIGHT ILLUMINATION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS INVALID. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,937.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE SEATS OF THE VEHICLE WERE COMING APART FROM THE BASE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (HODGES MAZDA AT THE AVENUES, 10681 PHILIPS HWY, JACKSONVILLE, FL 32256) AND REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

THE AIRBAG SENSOR AROUND THE SEAT AREA ISN'T PROTECTED VERY WELL FROM DIRT AND DEBRIS! NEEDS TO BE SECURED BETTER! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA 3. WHILE AT A STOP, ANOTHER VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE REAR OF THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY AND THE DRIVER, FRONT PASSENGER, AND REAR PASSENGER SEAT BELT RESTRAINTS FAILED TO RETRACT. THE DRIVER, THE FRONT PASSENGER, AND THE REAR PASSENGER SUSTAINED INJURIES TO THE HEAD. THE FRONT PASSENGER AND REAR PASSENGER REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 146,000.

WHEN IT GETS COLD OUTSIDE THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WILL STOP RANDOMLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD. I WAS TOLD FROM THE DEALER THE WIPER MOTOR NEEDED REPLACED. I REPLACED THE MOTOR AND THE PROBLEM WAS CORRECTED TEMPORARILY, THE PROBLEM IS NOW OCCURRING AGAIN AFTER ONLY 4 MONTHS AFTER BEING REPLACED. FROM READING ELSEWHERE THIS SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM WITH ALL MAZDA 3'S. I FIND IT DANGEROUS TO DRIVE WITH IT LIKE THIS AS IT IMPAIRS YOUR VISION GREATLY. *TR