2009 Mazda Mazda3 Problems

When driving and trying to negotiate a turn, or sometimes when going straight, the power assist steering simply fails (stops assisting the steering). I have to "muscle" the car off the roadway and either restart the engine or stop the car (off the road) straighten the steering wheel, restart the car, and the power assist is restored. This has happened five times in the last 9 months. So far there have been no accidents. The date velow is the most recent date of this failure.

THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN AS I'M SLOWING DOWN, AS YOU WOULD TO MAKE A TURN ONTO A STREET OR DRIVEWAY. I TURN ON MY BLINKER, THEN THE MOMENT I PRESS THE BRAKE, ALL OF THE POWER IN THE CAR DIES, AND COMES RIGHT BACK ON. I THINK OF IT AS A QUICK RESET IT SEEMS. HOWEVER, WHEN THIS HAPPENS, THE POWER STEERING DOES NOT WORK, AND I'M LEFT FINISHING MY TURN WITHOUT POWER STEERING. THE POWER STEERING IS THE ONLY THING THAT DOES NOT "RESET" WHEN THE POWER FAILS. THE POWER STEERING MAY TAKE 3-6 SECONDS BEFORE IT COMES BACK. AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK ON, BUT NOT UNTIL AFTER I'M THROUGH MY TURN. IT TYPICALLY SEEMS TO HAPPEN WHEN MY BLINKER, AND BRAKE IS APPLIED, ALMOST LIKE THE POWER OF THOSE LIGHTS SHUTS EVERYTHING OFF. BUT THIS ALL HAPPENS AT RANDOM. I HAVE A PART TIME JOB ON THE WKNDS DELIVERING FOOD. IT STARTED OUT JUST MAYBE HAPPENING ONCE A MONTH, AND THAT WAS 3-4 MONTHS AGO. NOW IT'S EVERYTIME I GO OUT, IT'S LIKELY TO HAPPEN, BUT WHEN, IT'S IMPOSSILBE TO TELL BECAUSE I CAN TRY EVERYTHING TO MAKE IT HAPPEN THAT NORMALLY MIGHT SEEM TO BE THE CAUSE AND THEN NOTHING. I'VE READ A LOT OF FORUMS RECENTLY THAT HAVE A LOT OF PEOPLE WITH EITHER EXACT PROBLEMS OR VERY SIMILAR. I DON'T LIVE IN A BIG CITY BUT FOR PEOPLE THAT ARE DRIVING THIS CAR IN A BIG CITY THATS BUSY, THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS, AND NOT ONLY THAT PEOPLE ARE GONNA END UP GETTING IN SMALL WRECKS FOR SOMETHING THAT COULD BE TAKEN CARE OF WITH A RECALL. PLEASE DO SOMETHING. I'M UNABLE TO WORK MY WKND JOB WITH THIS ISSUE SO IT'S COSTING ME 3 DAYS OF WORK UNTIL I GET IT FIXED. THANK YOU.

WHILE INFLATING A TIRE FOR ONE OF OUR CUSTOMERS, THE VALVE STEM BROKE CAUSING ALL AIR TO ESCAPE FROM THE TIRE.

I HEARD A BRIEF AUDIBLE ALARM AND NOTICED THAT THE TIRE PRESSURE WARNING SYMBOL ON THE DASH WAS LIT. AFTER ADDING AIR TO ON OFF THE TIRES WITH A HAND PUMP, IN REMOVING AIR PUMP NOZZLE FROM TIRE VALVE, THE VALVE BROKE AND ALL AIR LOST FROM THE TIRE. THIS WAS THE SECOND SUCH OCCURRENCE THIS YEAR. A REPAIR SHOP PERSON SAID THAT THE TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR ON THE VALVES TEND TO RUST AND CAN BREAK AFTER A FEW YEARS. AS THIS WAS THE SECOND TIME THIS OCCURRED TO ME IN RECENT MONTHS, I THOUGHT THAT I WOULD REPORT IT. BEYOND MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS CAR, I CAN'T RECALL EVER HAVING A VALVE STEM BREAK OFF WHEN FILLING A TIRE WITH AIR AND I HAVE BEEN DRIVING AND ADDING AIR TO TIRES FOR A LONG TIME. OTHERWISE, MY EXPERIENCE WITH THE CAR HAS BEEN FINE. *TR

TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS DEFECTIVE. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE ALL 4 OF THE SENSORS BECAUSE OF BROKEN RETAINING NUTS OR CORRODED STEMS. 3 OF THE SENSORS FAILED DURING DRIVING, CAUSING AN IMMEDIATE LOSS OF TIRE PRESSURE, CAUSING ME TO ALSO REPLACE 3 OF MY TIRES. ANOTHER FAILED AS I WAS CHECKING THE TIRE PRESSURE, FALLING INTO THE TIRE. PER GOODYEAR TIRE STORES, OTHER MANUFACTURES HAVE GONE TO A REPLACEABLE RUBBER STEM BECAUSE OF THIS, BUT NOT MAZDA. FIRST SENSOR REPLACED AT MAZDA DEALERSHIP APPROXIMATELY MID 2011, SECOND SENSOR REPLACED 6/01/2013, THIRD SENSOR REPLACED 9/17/2014, AND FOURTH SENSOR REPLACED 3/12/2016 ALL BY GOODYEAR TIRE STORES.

DRIVING ON HIGHWAY, TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT CAME ON, IMMEDIATELY WENT TO SIDE OF ROAD AND TIRE RUINED. HAD TROUBLE DIRECTING CAR TO SIDE OF ROAD. FORTUNATELY, NOBODY WAS AROUND. THE TIRE SENSOR CAME APART. ON 2 OTHER TIRES, THE WERE BREAKING, SO HAD TO BE REPLACED. RUINED TIRE HAPPENED IN 2014, BUT REPAIRED TIRES WERE IN 2015.

Brake pedal sinks to the ground d after abs is turned on due to hard braking or after hitting a dip

For the past 9-10 months and on occasions, when I step on the brake pedal to either slow down or stop from a normal cruise speed, the engine rpm quickly jumps up to 2000 - 2500 rpm. I have to quickly brake harder and *place the auto transmission selector in NEUTRAL to fully stop the car from lunging forward*. The date below is the most recent date.

MY AIRBAG LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD KEEPS TURNING ON AND OFF. SEEMS TO DEPEND ON THE WEATHER, IE, RAIN AND HIGH HUMIDITY

THE POWER STEERING CUTS OUT WHILE DRIVING AND THE ELECTRICITY FOR THE CAR CUTS OUT FOR A SECOND OR TWO AND THEN IT COMES BACK ON. THIS HAPPENS FREQUENTLY WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL.

MY AIRBAG LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD KEEPS TURNING ON AND OFF. SEEMS TO DEPEND ON THE WEATHER, IE, RAIN AND HIGH HUMIDITY

I WAS MERGING ONTO INTERSTATE 69 FROM CENTER ROAD IN FLINT, MICHIGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2012 AT APPROXIMATELY 11:30 A.M. THERE WAS A VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME MERGING AT THE SAME TIME. THAT VEHICLE MERGED IN FRONT OF A JEEP AND I MERGED BEHIND IT. THE DRIVER OF THE JEEP STATED THE VEHICLE MERGING IN FRONT OF HIM CUT HIM OFF CAUSING HIM TO BRAKE HARD AND SWERVE INTO CENTER LANE TO AVOID A CRASH. I BRAKED HARD TO AVOID REAR-ENDING THE JEEP. THE DRIVER OF THE JEEP ALSO STATED THE VEHICLE IN THE CENTER LANE SWERVED INTO THE LEFT LANE CAUSING THE VEHICLE IN THE LEFT LANE TO SWERVE OFF THE ROAD AND UPON RE-ENTERING THE LEFT LANE OVER-CORRECTED AND SLID ACROSS CENTER LANE INTO RIGHT LANE HITTING THE VEHICLE I WAS DRIVING CAUSING IT TO HIT THE GUARDRAIL THEN GOING INTO 360 DEGREE SPIN AND COMING TO A STOP APPROXIMATELY 50 FEET FARTHER ALONG THE HIGHWAY AGAINST THE GUARDRAIL. I WAS WEARING MY SEATBELT. THE AIRBAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY. I WAS INJURED IN THE CRASH. I HAVE A FRACTURED STERNUM AND BRUISES TO MY LEFT KNEE, RIGHT ARM AND LEFT SIDE OF MY NECK. [XXX] UD-10 SERIAL #77152 FLINT POLICE DEPT.- TRAFFIC DIVISION 210 E. FIFTH ST. FLINT, MI 48502 (810) 237-6890 INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN AS I'M SLOWING DOWN, AS YOU WOULD TO MAKE A TURN ONTO A STREET OR DRIVEWAY. I TURN ON MY BLINKER, THEN THE MOMENT I PRESS THE BRAKE, ALL OF THE POWER IN THE CAR DIES, AND COMES RIGHT BACK ON. I THINK OF IT AS A QUICK RESET IT SEEMS. HOWEVER, WHEN THIS HAPPENS, THE POWER STEERING DOES NOT WORK, AND I'M LEFT FINISHING MY TURN WITHOUT POWER STEERING. THE POWER STEERING IS THE ONLY THING THAT DOES NOT "RESET" WHEN THE POWER FAILS. THE POWER STEERING MAY TAKE 3-6 SECONDS BEFORE IT COMES BACK. AND IT ALWAYS COMES BACK ON, BUT NOT UNTIL AFTER I'M THROUGH MY TURN. IT TYPICALLY SEEMS TO HAPPEN WHEN MY BLINKER, AND BRAKE IS APPLIED, ALMOST LIKE THE POWER OF THOSE LIGHTS SHUTS EVERYTHING OFF. BUT THIS ALL HAPPENS AT RANDOM. I HAVE A PART TIME JOB ON THE WKNDS DELIVERING FOOD. IT STARTED OUT JUST MAYBE HAPPENING ONCE A MONTH, AND THAT WAS 3-4 MONTHS AGO. NOW IT'S EVERYTIME I GO OUT, IT'S LIKELY TO HAPPEN, BUT WHEN, IT'S IMPOSSILBE TO TELL BECAUSE I CAN TRY EVERYTHING TO MAKE IT HAPPEN THAT NORMALLY MIGHT SEEM TO BE THE CAUSE AND THEN NOTHING. I'VE READ A LOT OF FORUMS RECENTLY THAT HAVE A LOT OF PEOPLE WITH EITHER EXACT PROBLEMS OR VERY SIMILAR. I DON'T LIVE IN A BIG CITY BUT FOR PEOPLE THAT ARE DRIVING THIS CAR IN A BIG CITY THATS BUSY, THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS, AND NOT ONLY THAT PEOPLE ARE GONNA END UP GETTING IN SMALL WRECKS FOR SOMETHING THAT COULD BE TAKEN CARE OF WITH A RECALL. PLEASE DO SOMETHING. I'M UNABLE TO WORK MY WKND JOB WITH THIS ISSUE SO IT'S COSTING ME 3 DAYS OF WORK UNTIL I GET IT FIXED. THANK YOU.

THE POWER STEERING CUTS OUT WHILE DRIVING AND THE ELECTRICITY FOR THE CAR CUTS OUT FOR A SECOND OR TWO AND THEN IT COMES BACK ON. THIS HAPPENS FREQUENTLY WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL.

The contact owns a 2009 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while the vehicle was parked, the contact noticed a puddle of fuel on the ground underneath the vehicle. The contact stated that previously there was an abnormally strong odor inside the vehicle and in the trunk. In addition, the contact stated that the odor was very strong, causing her to become light-headed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or the dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 102,212.

The fuel pump lock ring on my 2009 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has failed which is causing two engine codes: P0442 and P0455. In addition there is a strong smell of gasoline fumes around the rear of the car after driving and parking. The fuel pump lock ring is a plastic threaded ring which secures and seals the fuel pump and fuel level sender to the fuel tank. Mazda has released a safety recall 5121I for MY2009-2011 RX-8 and MY2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 vehicles. Mazda states: "On certain subject RX-8 and Mazdaspeed6 vehicles, improper installation of the fuel pump mounting rings may lead to cracking of the rings, causing fuel leakage. In addition, on certain RX-8 vehicles, the fuel pump mounting rings may deteriorate due to heat exposure from the engine and exhaust pipe due to insufficient heat resistance at the top side of the fuel tank. This may also lead to cracking of the rings, causing fuel leakage. Fuel leakage may result in increased risk of fire in the presence of an ignition source near the vehicle." The faulty part number for the RX-8 matches that of the Mazdaspeed3. That is Mazda part number: BN8F-42-167 I believe the failure of this part and recall should extend to affected Mazda 3 vehicles, and any other models with the same part. I have opened a case with Mazda Corporate. Case number: 14466166445 I have uploaded a video of the smoke test performed by a local shop indicating the leak is coming from the ring: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6t6KeeaDPLgGzvvaA I have also attached a screenshot of the video, unfortunately the image quality provided by the mechanic is very poor.

Brake lights are causing the top of the tail light to melt on the housing.

RED TAIL LIGHT LENS MELTED SO WHEN YOU TURN ON THE LIGHTS, THE TAIL LIGHTS LOOK WHITE INSTEAD OF RED. DID THIS TO BOTH RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE TAIL LIGHTS USING ORIGINAL BULBS. I PURCHASED TWO NEW TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLIES AND INSTALLED THEM MYSELF. AFTER THREE MONTHS THE RIGHT SIDE TAIL LIGHT AGAIN MELTED SO IT NOW LOOKS WHITE.

2009 MAZDA3. THE WHEEL END OF THE RIGHT FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM SNAPPED OFF. UPDATED 02/13/15*BF

WHILE DRIVING ON A STRAIGHTAWAY PORTION OF A STATE HIGHWAY WITH NO TRAFFIC OR ROAD PROBLEMS (NO POTHOLES OR UNEVEN PAVEMENT), I HEARD WHAT SOUNDED LIKE AN OBJECT HIT THE UNDERSIDE OF MY VEHICLE. UPON LOOKING IN THE REAR VIEW MIRROR, THERE WAS NO EVIDENCE OF ANY ITEM ON THE ROAD. AFTER THAT HAPPENED, I STARTED HEARING METAL GRINDING SOUNDS UNDER THE CAR WHEN DRIVING ON UNEVEN ROADS. AFTER REMOVING ALL THE ITEMS IN THE TRUNK, INCLUDING THE SPARE TIRE, THE SOUND WAS STILL EVIDENT OVER UNEVEN PAVEMENT. THE MECHANIC DISCOVERED THAT A PART OF ONE OF THE REAR COIL SPRINGS HAD BROKEN OFF AND HAD GOTTEN LODGED UNDER THE CAR. THE COIL SPRING LOOKED NEW ON 2/3 OF THE SPRING AND RUSTED THROUGH ON THE PART THAT BROKE OFF (THE OTHER 1/3). THE OTHER REAR COIL SPRING LOOKED LIKE IT WAS STARTING TO RUST IN THE SAME AREA AND WOULD BE SUBJECT TO THE SAME TYPE OF FAILURE. WE LIVE IN THE NORTHEAST, BUT MAKE IT A HABIT TO CLEAN THE UNDERCARRIAGE DURING THE WINTER SEASON. AS OWNERS OF A 2009 SUZUKI AND 2005 HONDA ODYSSEY, MY CONCERN IS THAT THERE IS A DEFECT IN THIS PART SINCE THIS TYPE OF FAILURE HAS NOT OCCURRED WITH ANY OF OUR OTHER VEHICLES. THE MAZDA IS A COMMUTER VEHICLE USED BY ONE PERSON AND RARELY HAS ANYTHING MORE IN THE TRUNK THAN GROCERIES ONCE IN A WHILE, SO OVERLOADING IS A NON-ISSUE. WE ARE IN POSSESSION OF THE COIL SPRINGS THAT WERE REMOVED IF INSPECTION IS REQUIRED. *TR

MY CAR DOES NOT HAVE A KEY LOCK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. THE DOOR CAN ONLY BE UNLOCKED BY THE DRIVER'S SIDE OR BY A KEY REMOTE. I DO NOT HAVE A REMOTE. BECAUSE THE PASSENGER SIDE CAN ONLY BE OPENED BY THE DRIVER'S SIDE THIS CREATES A RISK OF INJURY FOR THE DRIVER, AS WELL AS PASSENGERS WHO ARE DEPENDENT ON THE DRIVER. FOR EXAMPLE, MY MOTHER IS 80 YEARS OLD AND DEAF. SHE NEEDS ASSISTANCE WALKING. WHEN I NEED TO UNLOCK THE CAR, I HAVE TO LEAVE HER UNATTENDED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OR BRING HER WITH ME TO THE DRIVER'S SIDE THEN WALK BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE. ANOTHER EXAMPLE WOULD BE IF I NEED TO UNLOCK MY CAR WHEN THERE HEAVY TRAFFIC ON THE STREET SIDE (DRIVER'S SIDE) BEFORE I CAN PUT MY DOG'S IN THE CAR, I HAVE TO LEAVE MY DOGS UNATTENDED, OR BRING THEM INTO THE STREET WITH ME. WHEN TRAFFIC IS HEAVY, MY ONLY METHOD TO UNLOCK THE CAR IS TO GO INTO HEAVY TRAFFIC. I HAVE NOTICED THERE ARE MANY CAR MANUFACTURERS NOT INSTALLING A KEY LOCK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CAN'T UNDERSTAND THE REASON FOR THIS OTHER THAN SAVING ON COSTS. NOWADAYS MOST CAR KEYS ARE COUPLED WITH A REMOTE TO UNLOCK THE CAR. HOWEVER, IF THE REMOTE SHOULD FAIL, THE DRIVER CAN ONLY UNLOCK THE CAR FROM THE DRIVER'S GAIN ENTRY. THIS POSES A DANGEROUS RISK TO THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS. TO REPLACE A FAULTY REMOTE COSTS APPROXIMATELY $150. I BELIEVE THIS APPROACH TO GAIN CAR ENTRY IS DEFECTIVE AND CAN RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A STRONG INFERENCE THAT CAR MANUFACTURERS ARE DELIBERATELY NOT INSTALLING A KEY LOCK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE TO SAVE ON MANUFACTURING COSTS AND ALSO MAKE MONEY BY HAVING THE CONSUMER BUY A REMOTE. I RESPECTFULLY REQUEST YOU LOOK INTO THIS MATTER. YOUR TIME AND EFFORTS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

2009 MAZDA3. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO A DEFECT ON THE STEERING WHEEL. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED IT APPEARED TO BE A DEFECT WITH THE STEERING WHEEL. THERE APPEARED TO BE GAPS DEVELOPING ON EITHER SIDE OF THE STEERING WHEEL HUB. THE CENTER PANEL WHERE THE HORN AND AIR BAG WERE LOCATED. THE GAPS WERE BECOMING INCREASINGLY WIDER TO THE POINT WHERE SHE COULD ACTUALLY SEE MECHANISMS THROUGH THE GAP. THE CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED , BECAUSE THE HUB SEEMED TO BE DETACHING AND SHE FEARED IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT, THE AIR BAG WOULD NOT DEPLOY, OR INADVERTENTLY DEPLOY. THE DEALER INSISTED IT WAS A COMMON COSMETIC ISSUE DESCRIBING IT AS TRIM DETERIORATION. *JB

I HAVE TAKEN MY MAZDA 3 TO BE CHECKED OUT 2 TIMES DUE TO THE ENGINE LIGHT COMING ON. BOTH TIMES I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE GAS CAP. I AM TOLD THIS HAS BEEN A RECALL FOR OTHER MAZDA VEHICLE BUT NOT MINE. I HAVE OWNED MY VEHICLE FOR 4 YEARS AND IT HAS HAPPENED 2 TIMES. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS TO HAVE THIS PROBLEM CORRECTED.

I WAS ATTEMPTING TO TURN LEFT WHILE IN A LOCAL PARKING LOT, BUT AN UNEXPECTED POWER STEERING FAILURE CAUSED VEHICLE TO COLLIDE WITH ADJACENT CURB AND ONTO A CITY FIRE HYDRANT. I WAS TRAVELING AT ABOUT 10 MPH WHEN THIS OCCURRED AND THE GROUND HAD BEEN WET, BUT IT WAS NOT RAINING AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT. *TR

PREMATURE TRANSMISSION FAILURE DUE TO CATASTROPHIC CLUTCH FAILURE FROM THE CLUTCH PLATE ITSELF ON 2009 MAZDA3 WITH ONLY 18,000 MILES ON IT. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW FROM DEALERSHIP. CLUTCH FAILURE RESULTED IN AN INCIDENT OF LOSS OF CONTROL OVER THE VEHICLE IN 3 LANES OF TRAFFIC DUE TO LOSS OF POWER THROUGH THE DRIVELINE. *TR

MY 2009 MAZDA 3 HAS EXPERIENCED OVER HEATING OF THE TRANSAXLE (TRANSMISSION) WHEN OPERATING IN OUTSIDE TEMPERATURES OF 100 DEGREES AND OVER. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER AND TALKED TO MAZDA CORP. AND THEY HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THEIR ONLY ADVICE IS TO PULL OVER AND LET THE TRANSMISSION COOL DOWN. THIS HAS BECOME A SAFETY PROBLEM DUE TO HAVING TO PULL OVER IN SOME LESS THAN SAFE AREAS.

For the past 9-10 months and on occasions, when I step on the brake pedal to either slow down or stop from a normal cruise speed, the engine rpm quickly jumps up to 2000 - 2500 rpm. I have to quickly brake harder and *place the auto transmission selector in NEUTRAL to fully stop the car from lunging forward*. The date below is the most recent date.

FIRST OFF. I'M A MECHANIC SO THIS SHOULD THROW YOU FOR A LOOP. AT 130,000 MILES MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEPT COMING ON. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH. SO I COULDN'T FIND A PROBLEM WITH FUEL INJECTORS OR SENSORS OR ANY LEAK FROM INTAKE OR EXHAUST. MY IDLE WAS RUNNING HIGH SO I REPLACED FUEL INJECTORS, THEN MAF SENSOR, THEN O2 SENSORS AND STILL A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IT SAID ENGINE RUNNING RICH "BANK 1 RUNNING RICH". THEN IT STARTED TO PUTT AND LOSE POWER. THE OVERALL PROBLEM WAS MY CLUTCH WAS GOING. AFTER IT STARTED TO SLIP I REPLACED IT AND ALL PROBLEMS WERE GONE. SO I WASTED ABOUT $500 FOR IT TO BE A CLUTCH THAT ALSO NEEDED A NEW THROW OUT BEARING AND SPOON BECAUSE THEY REDESIGNED IT WHEN THERE WAS A DEFFICIENCY BUT NO RECALL ON IT. AND BECAUSE OF THE CODE NOT TELLING ME THE RIGHT PROBLEM I ALSO NEEDED A FLY WHEEL. SO I'M OUT OVER $1400. SO MUCH FOR COMPUTERS THAT ARE SMART IN CARS.

I SUBMITTED A REIMBURSEMENT APPLICATION FORM FOR THE REPLACEMENT OF MY WIPER MOTOR $438.07. THE MOTOR WAS REPLACED ON JANUARY 4, I SENT IN THE REIMBURSEMENT APPLICATION ON JANUARY 5, AND WAS DENIED ON JANUARY 10. I RESUBMITTED IT TWO MORE TIMES, BECAUSE I BELIEVE I SHOULD BE REIMBURSED FOR THE PRICE OF THE REPLACEMENT OF THE WIPER MOTOR DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE RECALL ON THE GROUND HARNESS IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE WIPER MOTOR FAILING OVER TIME. I NEVER RECEIVED THE RECALL NOTICE, AND THEREFORE NEVER HAD THE CHANCE TO FIX THE HARNESS BEFORE IT CAUSED THE WIPER MOTOR TO STOP WORKING. I HAVE PLACED NUMEROUS PHONE CALLS, BUT EACH TIME I AM TOLD THAT THEY WILL INVESTIGATE AND GET BACK WITH ME. NO ONE EVER CALLS BACK. *JS

DEFECTIVE VIBRATING DRIVER'S SIDE MIRROR AT ANY TIME AT HIGHWAY SPEED. TRAFFIC ON DRIVER'S SIDE APPEARS BLURRY AND DISTORTED AT HIGHWAY SPEED. PROBLEM PERSISTS EVEN AFTER NEW MIRROR INSTALLED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT RENTED A 2009 MAZDA3. WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, HE EXPERIENCED NUMBNESS IN HIS LEFT ARM UP TO HIS FINGERS BECAUSE HE LEFT HIS ELBOW ON THE ARM REST. A DOCTOR TOLD HIM THAT HE MAY HAVE EXPERIENCED A BLOOD CLOT. HE FELT THAT THE ARM REST MAY HAVE BEEN TOO HARD. HE EMAILED THE MANUFACTURER AND IS AWAITING A RESPONSE. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 39,000.