2010 Mazda Mazda5 Problems

AIRBAG LIGHT FLASHES ON DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED ON AND WHILE DRIVING.

I HAVE HAD MY AIRBAG LIGHT ON MY DASHBOARD TURN ON. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME IT DOES THAT. I'M SCARED IT'S GOING TO EXPLODE ON ME WHEN I'M DRIVING. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THERE'S A RECALL FOR THE CAR I HAVE. DRIVING WITH A SCARE FEELING IS NOT GOOD.

On several occasions, most of which happened while in motion, my vehicle has stalled out of the blue with no warning. It seems to mostly happen when I’m slowing down or when I’m making a right hand turn and try to accelerate, suddenly there’s no power to the engine. I have to put the vehicle into park and restart it. Twice while slowing down for a red light. Twice immediately after making a right handed turn, and once, when entering roundabout, after yielding. This is happened at least five times. The most recent incident occurring in August 2023.

The Mazda 5 was in a minor collision. The vehicle rear-ended another vehicle in stop-and-go traffic. Both vehicles were in motion, approximate speed of the Mazda 5 was 15MPH or less. The front seat airbags deployed. The other vehicle had rear bumper damage but the Mazda 5 immediately had smoke and flames under the hood. Thankfully, all four occupants immediately exited the vehicle to safety. The Mazda 5 quickly burned completely. Police and firefighters came to the scene and everyone agreed that the Mazda 5 fire was not commensurate with the extent of the collision and likely speed of impact. I am concerned there was a major safety defect that caused it to be engulfed in flames.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda5. The contact stated that while inflating the driver’s side rear tire, the valve stem fractured and detached. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vehicle was taken to tire shop for assistance. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 165,000.

IN LESS THAN 12 MONTHS, WE HAVE HAD 2 "CONTINENTAL PURECONTACT WITH ECOPLUS TECHNOLOGY" TIRES FAIL IN SPECTACULAR FASHION. BOTH TIRES HAD NEARLY RIPPED IN HALF FROM SIDEWALL TO SIDEWALL WHILE DRIVING. 1 OF THE TIRES DID SO AFTER HITTING A POTHOLE, WHILE THE OTHER DID SO WHILE AT OVER 50 MPH AND NO VISIBLE DEBRIS/POTHOLES AROUND. TIRES WERE INFLATED TO AROUND 32 PSI, AND WERE BETWEEN 1 AND 2 YEARS OLD WITH 80% OF TREAD REMAINING.

REAR SLIDING DOORS OF MAZDA 5 ARE FREEZING SHUT WHEN PULLING ON HANDLE DOOR OPENS SLIGHTLY AND FRREZES. DOOR THEN CANNOT BE OPENED OR CLOSED AND THEN HAVE TO DRIVE CAR WITH A PARTLY OPENED REAR DOOR. THIS IS HAPPENING ON BOTH REAR DOORS. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED DURING THE DAY IN A CARPARK. THIS HAS NOW HAPPENED ON 6 SEPARATE OCCASIONS AND IS VERY UNSAFE. DOOR LATCH IS FREEZING AND WILL NOT OPEN OR CLOSE REAR SLIDING DOORS. DOOR WILL START TO OPERATE NORMALLY ONCE CAR IS DRIVEN INTO A HEATED GARAGE AND RETURNS TO ABOVE FREEZING TEMPERATURES.

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE IS BELOW FREEZING, THE DOOR DOES NOT LATCH. I BEGAN TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND THE DOOR SLID OPEN WITH MY CHILD IN THE SEAT CLOSEST TO THE DOOR. THERE IS A RECALL FOR THIS VERY ISSUE ON THE 2006 MAZDA 5

JULY 29, 2019 VEHICLE IN MOTION ON EXPRESSWAY. SUDDEN LOSS OFF POWER STEERING WHICH LEFT ME WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO TURN STEERING WHEEL. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 90 SECS POWER STEERING RETURNED TO NORMAL. EXITED EXPRESSWAY AND CHECKED POWER STEERING FLUID LEVELS. FLUID LEVELS WERE CORRECT ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDATION. CONTINUED TO OPERATE VEHICLE BUT STAYED ON CITY STREETS. EXPERIENCED INTERMITTENT LOSS OF POWER STEERING WHILE NAVIGATING THROUGH A WALMART PARKING LOT. AUGUST 27, 2019 STARTED VEHICLE AT MY RESIDENCE. VEHICLE IS ALWAYS PARKED IN OUR GARAGE. POWER STEERING NOT ENGAGING. DROVE TO TUFFY DEALER FOR INSPECTION. TECHNICIAN STATES POWER STEERING PUMP HAS FAILED.

****NOTE - VIN AND MODEL LISTED DON'T MATCH**** POWER STEERING FLUID LEAK ## VIN PASSED ## MAZDA 5 2010 ## *TT

On several occasions, most of which happened while in motion, my vehicle has stalled out of the blue with no warning. It seems to mostly happen when I’m slowing down or when I’m making a right hand turn and try to accelerate, suddenly there’s no power to the engine. I have to put the vehicle into park and restart it. Twice while slowing down for a red light. Twice immediately after making a right handed turn, and once, when entering roundabout, after yielding. This is happened at least five times. The most recent incident occurring in August 2023.

The Mazda 5 was in a minor collision. The vehicle rear-ended another vehicle in stop-and-go traffic. Both vehicles were in motion, approximate speed of the Mazda 5 was 15MPH or less. The front seat airbags deployed. The other vehicle had rear bumper damage but the Mazda 5 immediately had smoke and flames under the hood. Thankfully, all four occupants immediately exited the vehicle to safety. The Mazda 5 quickly burned completely. Police and firefighters came to the scene and everyone agreed that the Mazda 5 fire was not commensurate with the extent of the collision and likely speed of impact. I am concerned there was a major safety defect that caused it to be engulfed in flames.

FRONT SWAY BAR BUSHINGS WERE REPLACED NO LESS THAN 3 TIMES BY THE DEALER UNDER WARRANTY. THE SYMPTOM IS A CLUNKING OR THUMPING NOISE ON ROUGH OR WASHBOARDED ROADS. THE SWAY BAR IS .908 INCHES IN DIAMETER AND THE WALL THICKNESS OF THE BUSHINGS IS APPROXIMATELY .25 INCHES. THEY ARE RUBBER FROM MAZDA AND APPARENTLY, CHANGING THEM EVERY 20K MI OR SO ARE NOT ADEQUATE FOR THE APPLICATION. SEEMS THAT THERE IS A KNOWN ISSUE BY MAZDA FOR THIS BUT ONE OF THE BUSINING THAT WAS JUST REMOVED 2/3/18 WAS TORN NEARLY IN HALF ACROSS BETWEEN THE SWAY BAR AND THE CROSS MEMBER. IF THESE WERE IGNORED AND THE BUSHINGS COMPLETELY FELL OUT OF THE BRACKETS THER WOULD BE ENOUGH MOVEMENT OF THE SWAY BAR TO CAUSE INTERFERENCE IN STEERING THE VEHICLE DUE TO THE FULLY ARTICULATED DESIGN OF THE SWAY BAR ENDLINKS. THIS HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BE A DEADLY ISSUE.

TAKATA RECALL MY FUEL TANK WAS CONTAMINAT WITH WATER AND BLACK GOOK I PAYED $900.00 TO HAVE IT FIXED WILL THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERETHENMY AIRBAG LIGHT KEEPS BLINKING ON AND OFF AND MY SUSPENCION IS OFF AS WELL THEN I PAYED $923.40 FORA RENTAL ALL THIS WAS PAYED OUT OF POCKET

The Mazda 5 was in a minor collision. The vehicle rear-ended another vehicle in stop-and-go traffic. Both vehicles were in motion, approximate speed of the Mazda 5 was 15MPH or less. The front seat airbags deployed. The other vehicle had rear bumper damage but the Mazda 5 immediately had smoke and flames under the hood. Thankfully, all four occupants immediately exited the vehicle to safety. The Mazda 5 quickly burned completely. Police and firefighters came to the scene and everyone agreed that the Mazda 5 fire was not commensurate with the extent of the collision and likely speed of impact. I am concerned there was a major safety defect that caused it to be engulfed in flames.

While driving the car started lurching when accelerating. I noticed somebody else mentioned this recently when their car reached 180,000, which is when mine started doing the same thing. When this started happening my transmission light and my traction control light came on and my car was no longer operable. And by that I mean I could not accelerate or shift the vehicle into reverse, park, or neutral. This happened while driving 60 mph on the highway and almost caused an accident as I could no longer accelerate. I had the vehicle taken to a transmission shop and had the transmission control module replaced, but the car continued to have the same problem.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ALL OF THE SEAT BELTS IN THE VEHICLE MALFUNCTIONED. THE BELT BUCKLES FAILED TO PROPERLY UNLATCH. THE BELT HAD TO BE VIOLENTLY PULLED IN ORDER TO EJECT FROM THE BUCKLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 47,000.

IN THE COLD WEATHER THE DRIVER'S SEAT BELT DOES NOT BUCKLE. IT FAILS TO "CLICK" INTO PLACE. OFTEN REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. ON 2 OCCASIONS THE BUCKLE WAS HELD IN PLACE AS-IF IT WAS SECURED ONLY TO SNAP OUT OF PLACE AFTER 5-10 MINUTES OF DRIVING. *TR

CORRODED TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR CAUSED SUDDEN LOSS OF AIR AND TIRE "EXPLODED" WHILE DRIVING ON FREEWAY AT HIGHWAY SPEED. NO POTHOLES, OBSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER IMPEDIMENTS TO CAUSE LOSS OF TIRE PRESSURE. RESULT WAS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION REQUIRING DRIVER TO CROSS THREE LANES OF TRAFFIC TO REACH SHOULDER. TIRE WAS "SHREDDED" NEARLY AROUND ENTIRE CIRCUMFERENCE, AND RUBBER CRUMBLED. DEALERSHIP TECH SAID PROBABLE CAUSE WAS CORROSION OF TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR. TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR WAS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT ON VEHICLE.

TIRES MAKE NOISE AT 25+MPH. ALSO TRIED TO ROTATE THEM, BUT THE INSIDE THREAD WORN UNEVENLY (ALSO MENTIONED HERE BY OTHERS). THE TIRE SHOP SAID THAT SHOCKS NEED TO BE REPLACED, CALLED MAZDA, BUT THEY DON'T COVER SHOCKS/STRUTS UNDER POWER TRAIN PROTECTION. ALSO A MAJOR CLUNK AT FRONT SUSPENSION, MECHANICS CAN'T FIGURE OUT. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AND BRAKE SLOWLY AND THE ENGINE JUST SHUT OFF ON ME. I WAS ABLE TO START THE CAR AGAIN. THERE IS NOT A WARNING AT ALL BUT JUST STOP ANYTIME THAT IT WANT TOO. *TR

I WAS DRIVING HOME AFTER DROPPING MY THREE CHILDREN OFF AT SCHOOL. THE ROAD THAT I LIVE ON IS WOODLAKE PKWY AND THE SPEED LIMIT IS FOURTY-FIVE MPH. A LADY IN A CAR PULLED OUT IN FRONT OF ME FROM A SUBDIVISION ON MY RIGHT, SHE WAS HEADED IN MY OPPOSITE DIRECTION. I HIT HER AS I ATTEMPTED TO SWERVE AND MISS HER ONLY PROJECTING ME FURTHER AND FASTER TO MY LEFT WHERE THERE WERE TWO SETS OF TREES AND BUSHES. AFTER THE INITIAL COLLISION I THEN FOUGHT MY WAY THROUGH TREES REALIZING I HAD NO BRAKES I SLAMMED DOWN THE BRAKES AND LANDED ON SOME TREE STUBS 150 FT AWAY FROM THE CRASH SITE. MY AIRBAGS NEVER DEPLOYED. *TR

AT A FULL STOP WITH MY RIGHT FOOT ON THE BRAKE, THE CAR JUMPED (AS IF BEING HIT FROM BEHIND) AND THE ENGINE BEGAN REVVING AS IF I HAD MY FOOT PRESSING DOWN AS HARD AS POSSIBLE ON THE ACCELERATOR. I HAD TO PUT THE CAR INTO NEUTRAL AND TURN THE CAR OFF TO GET IT TO STOP. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE FEBRUARY AT RANDOM INTERVALS RANGING FROM 4 MONTHS TO 1 WEEK APART BETWEEN INCIDENTS AND IN ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF WEATHER. MAZDA'S COMPUTER IS TELLING THEM THAT PRESSURE IS BEING APPLIED TO BOTH THE BRAKE AND THE ACCELERATOR AT THE SAME TIME, AND THEREFORE THEY SAY THEY CANNOT COME UP WITH ANY OTHER CAUSE THAN THAT I AM PUTTING MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE BRAKE. THIS IS NOT THE CASE. I VIDEO-TAPED THE LAST OCCURRENCE. THE CAR GOT UP TO 7000 RPM AND THE SUDDEN FORCE OF THE CAR JUMPING INTO GEAR ACTUALLY CAUSED THE CAR TO SLIDE EVEN THOUGH I HAD BEEN AT A FULL STOP (THIS INSTANCE WAS IN ICY CONDITIONS). I VIDEO-TAPED THE FACT THAT MY FOOT WAS NOT ON THE ACCELERATOR, BUT BECAUSE MY PHONE DOES NOT HAVE A LIGHT ON IT, THIS WAS TOO DARK TO DISCERN WITH THE DARK INTERIOR OF MY CAR. MY HUSBAND HAS ALSO BEEN IN THE CAR WHEN THIS HAS HAPPENED AND HAS SEEN THAT MY FOOT IS NOT ON THE ACCELERATOR. THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALER ALSO RODE WITH ME TO ASCERTAIN THAT I AM NOT A TWO-FOOTED DRIVER. MAZDA IS THROWING THEIR HANDS UP IN THE AIR BECAUSE THEIR COMPUTER WILL NOT PRODUCE A CODE TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM, WILL NOT OFFER A RENTAL CAR, WILL NOT OFFER TO REPLACE THE CAR, AND WILL NOT KEEP THE CAR LONG ENOUGH TO REPRODUCE THE PROBLEM (WHICH THEY SAY IS THE ONLY WAY THEY CAN IDENTIFY IT AND FIX IT). I EVEN ASKED THEM TO KEEP THE CAR THE LAST TIME IT HAPPENED UNTIL THEY COULD REPRODUCE IT, AND INSTEAD THEY INSTALLED A BLACK BOX DEVICE WHICH BASICALLY ENDED UP TELLING THEM NOTHING EXCEPT THAT FORCE WAS BEING APPLIED TO THE ACCELERATOR. *TR

AROUND 26000 MILES, I NOTICED MY 2010 MAZDA 5 STARTED SHOWING DIFFICULTY SHIFTING. THERE ARE 2 NOTICEABLE TIMES WHEN IT OCCURS, 1) WHEN TRAVELLING BETWEEN 30-40MPH AND YOU REMOVE YOUR FOOT FROM THE ACCELERATOR FOR 5 SECONDS OR SO AND THEN DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR TO INCREASE SPEED, THE CAR FAILS TO RESPOND UNTIL YOU ALMOST PUSH THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR, AND 2) WHEN ACCELERATING OUT OF A TURN OR WHEN TRAFFIC LIGHT TURNS GREEN AS YOU APPROACH SLOWLY, THE CAR FAILS TO RESPOND WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE GAS PEDAL TO ACCELERATE. I REPORTED ISSUE TO DEALER AND THE STANDARD ANSWER "UNABLE TO DUPLICATE" WAS GIVEN AND IT WAS STATED BY THE DEALER THAT A TRANSMISSION FLUSH IS RECOMMENDED AT 25K-30K MILES FOR THE MAZDA 5. I CHECKED THE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR A 2010 MAZDA 5 AND THERE IS NO INDICATION OF ANY INSPECTION OR REPLACEMENT OF TRANSMISSION FLUID FOR THE FIRST 60K MILES OF THE VEHICLE. I ALSO RESEARCHED THE ISSUE AT WWW.MAZDAS247.COM AND FOUND THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND THAT A TRANSMISSION FLUSH DOES APPEAR TO FIX THE PROBLEM. MOST DEALERS CHARGE $125-150 FOR A TRANNY FLUSH AND THIS IS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY (3YRS, 36K MILES STANDARD FOR THIS MODEL). A CAR THAT FAILS TO ACCELERATE WHEN YOU NEED IT TO AS WELL AS HAVING TO A SIGNIFICANT SERVICE MAINTENANCE NOT RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER APPEARS TO BE AN ISSUE. HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE RECEIVED OTHER REPORTS ABOUT THIS ISSUE. *TR

ALL CAR LOCKS AND DOORS WERE INACCESSIBLE DUE TO CONDENSATION AND FREEZING. SPOUSE AND CHILD WERE UNABLE TO ENTER CAR IN FREEZING TEMPERATURES. *TR

ON MY 2010 MAZDA 5 SPORT, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP AUTOMATICALLY WHEN IT IS DARK OR DIM OUTSIDE. ON PREVIOUS YEARS OF THIS VEHICLE, AND ON ALL OTHER VEHICLES I HAVE EVER DRIVEN, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP ONLY WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS ARE SWITCHED ON. THIS IS WHAT PREVENTS PEOPLE FROM DRIVING WITH THEIR HEADLIGHTS OFF. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND MAZDA CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE BOTH CONFIRMED THAT THE CONTROLS ARE WORKING THE WAY THE CAR WAS DESIGNED. THE RESULT OF THIS DESIGN CHANGE IS THAT BOTH MYSELF AND MY WIFE HAVE DRIVEN THE CAR IN THE DARK WITH THE HEADLIGHTS OFF. I HAVE TOLD MAZDA CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE THAT THIS DESIGN FLAW WILL CERTAINLY RESULT IN ACCIDENTS FROM PEOPLE DRIVING WITH THE HEADLIGHTS OFF, BUT THEY SAID THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO. I HOPE THEY WILL NOT WAIT FOR SOMEONE TO HAVE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT BEFORE THEY TAKE NOTICE. *TR