2010 Mazda Mazda6 Problems

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently veered to the left. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle became difficult to steer. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine cradle had failed and was severely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated while driving 40–45 MPH, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The TPMS warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who informed the contact that the rear main sub frame was completely rusted. There was a crack detected in the middle of the sub frame. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the rear sub frame was rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer informed the contact that it was normal wear and tear, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

The airbag light is still flashing on the dashboard after the airbag recall on this vehicle was fixed. It may be related to a different recall, which is safety campaign #16V594000.

PASSENGER SIDE DASH STARTED MELTING ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THE DASH IS ALMOST LIQUID. SUNLIGHT REFLECTS OFF THE SHINY MELTED DASH AND BLINDS THE DRIVER. I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I COULDN'T SEE DUE TO LIGHT REFLECTING OFF MELTED DASH. DASH IS SO STICKY THAT YOU CANNOT TOUCH OR IT WILL STICK TO HANDS/ CLOTHING. I HAVE RUINED MULTIPLE ITEMS OF CLOTHING DUE TO THIS MESS.

I recently had my front subframe replaced as part of your recall, however, the rear subframe and all components attached are suffering from the exact same rust and potential component failure as the front. I was replacing my brakes today and noticed that the entire structure is on the verge of complete failure. The right rear suspension already makes unusual noises when going over even small bumps and I imagine if I were to hit a large pothole that would probably be the end of this car. I imagine all similar Mazda 6s in the Midwest suffer from the exact same degradation and it is a major safety concern. There are places where there's chunks of subframe missing because it has rusted completely through and just disintegrated.

I looked up recalls on my vehicle and it states that The 2011 Mazda6 is  part of a recall (NHTSA 19V-323, Mazda 2818I) covering 2011-2013 models for front cross member (subframe) corrosion due to insufficient rust protection . In salt-belt states, this corrosion can cause the lower control arm to detach, reducing steering control and increasing crash risk.  Key Details regarding the 2011 Mazda6 Subframe Recall: Scope: The recall affects specific 2011-2013 Mazda6 vehicles (and 2009-2010 models in a previous, related recall). Location Restrictions: Vehicles must have been originally sold in, or currently/previously registered in, 23 "salt belt" states (including CT, NY, MI, MN, OH, etc.). The Issue: The front cross member may experience severe corrosion, causing structural failure of the passenger-side lower control arm mounting point. Symptoms: Drivers may notice a change in steering alignment or a broken cross member. Remedy: Dealers will inspect the cross member and replace it if necessary. Action Required: Owners should contact their local Mazda dealership to check their VIN for open recalls.  The recall was officially announced in May 2019 and is an expansion of a 2018 action.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently veered to the left. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle became difficult to steer. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine cradle had failed and was severely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000.

While im driving the steering is shifting to the right and seems lower on right side. My tires daily need to have air in them because of the uneven weight. While I drive and let go of the gas the car pulls back like an E brake could be stuck not sure though. No accidents at all but it seems like the vehicle is getting weaker and weaker with the uneven weight going down on the tires and steering seems like it's going to crash onto the right without being able to control it.

I purchased this vehicle for my 16 yr old daughter 1 yr ago. The car has a clean carfax and has had no accidents. Upon purchasing the car the headlights continue to burn out. Taking it to a Mazda dealership i learned the headlight assembly unit was melting. I had to purchase 2 used headlight assembly because new from the dealership are 1,000 a piece. 2 used but perfectly working headlights were installed and within a yr the headlights had burned out again. I went to change the bulbs only to learn the headlight assembly were once again burnt. I have to purchase 2 new headlight assembly again but the mechanic can not guarantee that this burning situation won't occur. After calling around to places to find headlight assembly I have come to find out many are burnt. This seems like a real problem considering you need headlights to drive at night. Spending 1,000 everytime my headlights burn out seems 100% unreasonable and the fact that there is cleary a wiring issue within the headlight assembly unit itself seems to be a problem. I have been on multiple forums and this is a common issue. Please fix the problem!!!!!!

DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. IT'S NOT THE FUSE OR THE BULBS. THIS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT FORCING ME TO DRIVE OVER TWO HOURS ON BACK ROADS AND FREEWAY WITH MY HIGHBEAMS ON TO SEE.

FOR SOME REASON THE BRAKE ROTOR ON THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL WARPS VERY QUICKLY AFTER DRIVING UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS. THE ROTOR THAT WARPS MAKES THE STEERING WHEEL SHAKE VIOLENTLY WHEN BRAKING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS AND IS DIFFICULT TO CONTROL STEERING. ALSO WHEN BRAKING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS THE SHAKING DECREASES IF THE BRAKE PEDAL IS STOMPED ON HARD BUT THIS RESULTS IN "BRAKE CHECKING" THE VEHICLE THAT IS FOLLOWING BEHIND THE CAR. TO TRY TO CORRECT THE ISSUE THE FRONT ROTORS WERE MACHINED SEVERAL TIMES, REPLACED, MACHINED AGAIN BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. AT LOWER SPEEDS THE CAR LURCHES FORWARD AND BACK FORWARD AND BACK AS THE BRAKE CATCHES AND RELEASES THE WARPED ROTOR.

WHEN I ENTER CAR AND ATTACH SEAT BELT, AT SOME POINT DURING STARTING OUT OR IN THE PROCESS OF GOING DOWN THE ROAD, THE SEAT WILL START LEANING BACKWARDS DUE TO THE SEATBELT BEING HOOKED AROUND THE LEVER TO TILT THE SEAT BACK. MY FEET NO LONGER REACH THE GAS OR BREAK PEDAL WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT IT HAS NOT BEEN THE CAUSE OF AN ACCIDENT SO FAR. IT HAPPENS AT ANY TIME AFTER STARTING OUT OR ANYTIME DURING DRIVING OR IN MOTION. SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE OFTEN THE LONGER I HAVE HAD IT.

The dashboard is sticky and shiny and the glare from the sun is terrible. It’s almost like the dashboard is “melting”

PASSENGER SIDE DASH STARTED MELTING ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THE DASH IS ALMOST LIQUID. SUNLIGHT REFLECTS OFF THE SHINY MELTED DASH AND BLINDS THE DRIVER. I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I COULDN'T SEE DUE TO LIGHT REFLECTING OFF MELTED DASH. DASH IS SO STICKY THAT YOU CANNOT TOUCH OR IT WILL STICK TO HANDS/ CLOTHING. I HAVE RUINED MULTIPLE ITEMS OF CLOTHING DUE TO THIS MESS.

Car won't start due to PCM/TCM lost communication.

I purchased this vehicle for my 16 yr old daughter 1 yr ago. The car has a clean carfax and has had no accidents. Upon purchasing the car the headlights continue to burn out. Taking it to a Mazda dealership i learned the headlight assembly unit was melting. I had to purchase 2 used headlight assembly because new from the dealership are 1,000 a piece. 2 used but perfectly working headlights were installed and within a yr the headlights had burned out again. I went to change the bulbs only to learn the headlight assembly were once again burnt. I have to purchase 2 new headlight assembly again but the mechanic can not guarantee that this burning situation won't occur. After calling around to places to find headlight assembly I have come to find out many are burnt. This seems like a real problem considering you need headlights to drive at night. Spending 1,000 everytime my headlights burn out seems 100% unreasonable and the fact that there is cleary a wiring issue within the headlight assembly unit itself seems to be a problem. I have been on multiple forums and this is a common issue. Please fix the problem!!!!!!

While im driving the steering is shifting to the right and seems lower on right side. My tires daily need to have air in them because of the uneven weight. While I drive and let go of the gas the car pulls back like an E brake could be stuck not sure though. No accidents at all but it seems like the vehicle is getting weaker and weaker with the uneven weight going down on the tires and steering seems like it's going to crash onto the right without being able to control it.

The wheels were turning in and the steering was really hard to keep straight had to turn the steering wheel almost half around car make Loud screaming noises.tires went flat ..i have 6 grandkids lucky I wasn't going fast the car could of flipped .subframe broke in half on passenger side rusted right out.i got this car from right way dealership in Saginaw Michigan in march of 2019 they never told me or never contacted me that there was a recall for the subframe breaking.could of killed someone!!!!

WHILE SERVICING A CUSTOMER'S VEHICLE, THE VALVE STEM BROKE. THIS RESULTED IN TIRE DEFLATION AND THE NEED TO REPAIR THE TPMS SENSOR AT A COST OF $73.40. *TR

MY BRAKE ROTORS ARE COMPLETELY WARPED! AFTER 6 MONTHS OF HAVING MY CAR MY BRAKES HAVE GONE OUT MULTIPLE TIMES, I DON'T NOT DRIVE MY CAR LONG DISTANCES OR EVEN ON A DAILY BASIS. I CAN BE GOING AS SLOW AS 25 MPH AND WHEN I GO TO BRAKE MY CAR WILL START TO SHAKE (NOT MUCH BUT NOTICEABLE) THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS DUE TO THE FACT IT CAN CAUSE LOSS OF CONTROL WHILE BRAKING. I HAVE TAKEN MY CAR TO THE DEALER AND HAD IT WORKED ON UNDER A "ONE TIME" WARRANTY MEANING THEY WILL MAINTENANCE THE BRAKE ONCE AT NO COST TO ME. EACH TIME I HAVE GONE OR SPOKEN TO MY DEALER THEY SAY THEY CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHY IT KEEPS HAPPENING AND EVEN SAID IT COULD BE NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR (WHICH IS NOT THE CASE). I AM APART OF A REGIONAL MAZDA CLUB AND EVERYONE WITH A MAZDA 6 (2009-12) SEEM TO HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS. ALSO, THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT STAYS ON. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER I PURCHASED MY CAR THE LIGHT CAME ON FOLLOWED BY THE LOUD BEEPING SOUND THAT WARNS YOU THAT YOUR TIRE PRESSURE IS LOW. I CALLED MY DEALER AND THEY LOOKED AT IT AND TOLD MY I JUST NEED AIR. WELL THE VERY NEXT DAY THE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE LOUD BEEPING FOLLOWED. A LONG WITH THAT MY PASSENGER SEAT AIR BAG LIGHT KEEPS SAY THAT THE AIR BAG IS OFF, AND THE PASSENGER SEAT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT HAS ISSUES WITH STAY ON. *TR

Car won't start due to PCM/TCM lost communication.

MY VEHICLE IS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND LAST WEEKEND I WAS DRIVING AT THE FREEWAY WITH MY FAMILY AT 70 MPH ON CRUISE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN WE GOT BIG JERK FROM MY VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE RPM STARTED INCREASING THE SAME TIME FIRST I THOUGHT SOMEONE HIT ME FROM BACK BUT THE GLADLY THE VEHICLE WAS IN OTHER LANE AND HE HONKED AT ME. I THEN I SAW D LIGHT DISAPPEAR ON THE PANEL AND THE VEHICLE WAS IN VERY HIGH RPM MODE. I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IS HAPPENING I SAFELY TRIED TO PULL ON THE RIGHT AND STOPPED TO SEE WHATS WRONG BUT COULDN'T FOUND ANYTHING. I TURNED OFF VEHICLE FOR A MINUTE AND STARTED AGAIN. IT WORKED FINE FOR 5 MIN AND AS SOON AS I REACHED 55 OR 60 MPH THE D LIGHT STARTED BLINKING AGAIN AND AGAIN I GOT HIGH RPMS AND JERK. IT ALMOST HAD CAUSED THE ACCIDENT AS THE OTHER VEHICLE ALMOST HIT ME FROM THE BACK. IT FELT LIKE ENGINE BRAKING. THEN I DROVE VERY LOW SPPED ON INNER CITY ROAD WITH MY BLINKERS ON TO REACH HOME SAFELY. NOW DEALER IS TELLING ME THAT IT WILL COST ME MINIMUM $3000 TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION. I THINK ITS A KNOW ISSUE TO MAZDA AND THEY SHOULD FIX MY VEHICLE TRANSMISSION ATLEAST. THIS VEHICLE IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE.

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY ⁃ MY VENT LINE WAS CLOGGED TO WHERE MY FUEL TANK CREATED A LEAK & THEN FUEL TANK COLLAPSED WHILE I WAS DRIVING . I DROVE MY CAR FOR 2 DAYS WITHOUT KNOWING & DID NOT REALIZE IT UNTIL I WAS FILLING UP GAS INTO MY CAR & I NOTICED THE GAS LEAKING PROFUSELY . I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP, IN WHICH I DISCOVERED THAT MY FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY WAS INSTALLED IMPROPERLY.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 70 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE SUDDEN THE CAR VEERED TO THE RIGHT CAUSING HER TO GO INTO THE RIGHT LANE AS SHE WAS IN THE LEFT LANE. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS BESIDE HER AND SHE WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. SHE STOPPED AND CALLED ME AS I WAS AT WORK TO EXPLAIN WHAT HAD HAPPENED. SHE WAS JUST A FEW MILES AWAY FROM THE EXIT IN WHICH WE LIVE JUST OFF THE INTERSTATE SO SHE WAS ABLE TO LIMP THE CAR HOME. LATER THAT EVENING WHEN I WENT TO LOOK AT IT I NOTICED IMMEDIATELY THAT THE PASSENGER TIRE WAS POINTING OUTWARD A LITTLE BIT. I JACKED THE CAR UP LOOKING TO SEE IF A TIE ROD OR CONTROL ARM HAD BROKE ONLY TO FIND THAT NEITHER HAD BROKE. I LOOKED AT THE FRAME AND SEEN HOW BADLY IT WAS RUSTED AND NOTICED IT ACTUALLY HAD BROKEN APART AND WAS SHIFTED. THIS AREA OF THE SUBFRAME IS DIRECTLY UNDER THE A/C UNIT WHICH DRIPS STRAIGHT DOWN ONTO THE FRAME AREA THAT IS ROTTED. WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY THE REASON THE THE FRAME RUSTED AND BROKE AND SHIFTED CAUSING THE TIRE TO POINT OUTWARD. CALLED MAZDA AND THEY SENT A TOW TRUCK TO RETRIEVE THE CAR. CURRENTLY WAITING ON THEIR INSPECTION AND A CALL FROM MAZDA CORP TO SEE IF THEY WILL BE COVERING THE REPAIR. AFTER READING EVERYONE ELSE'S ISSUES WITH THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM I'M ASSUMING MAZDA WILL TELL ME IT'S OUR PROBLEM. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND I'VE SEEN OTHER'S WHO'S CAR ARE EVEN NEWER AND MAZDA IS TELLING EVERYONE IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH IT NOT BEING A MANUFACTURED DEFECT WHEN CLEARING THE WATER FROM THE A/C DRIPPING DOWN IS CAUSING ALL THESE SUBFRAMES TO RUST MUCH FASTER THAN ANY OTHER PART OF THE FRAME. WE'LL SEE WHAT THEY SAY BUT I'M NOT HOLDING MY BREATH.... SEEMS AS THOUGH WE THE PEOPLE NEED TO BAND TOGETHER IN A CLASS ACTION AGAINST MAZDA BECAUSE THIS CLEARLY IS A PROBLEM FOR A LOT OF CONSUMERS. PRAY NO ONE EVER GETS KILLED DO TO LOSS OF CONTROL WHEN THE FRAMES DO BRK.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the dashboard on the passenger’s side of the vehicle was melted, causing a glare on the windshield which obstructed the view of the contact while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer; however, the warranty had expired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 32,000.

AFTER CONNECTING SEARBELT AND MOVING IN TRAFFIC THE SEAT BEGINS TO MOVE BECAUSE SEAT BELT IS HOOKED ON THE LEVER THAT MOVES THE SEAT INTO RECLINING POSITION, VERY DANGEROUS WHEN IN TRAFFIC AND TRYING TO REACH BREAK, GAS, ETC. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON MANY OCCASSIONS AND TAKES ME BY SURPRISE EVERY TIME.

WHEN I ENTER CAR AND ATTACH SEAT BELT, AT SOME POINT DURING STARTING OUT OR IN THE PROCESS OF GOING DOWN THE ROAD, THE SEAT WILL START LEANING BACKWARDS DUE TO THE SEATBELT BEING HOOKED AROUND THE LEVER TO TILT THE SEAT BACK. MY FEET NO LONGER REACH THE GAS OR BREAK PEDAL WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT IT HAS NOT BEEN THE CAUSE OF AN ACCIDENT SO FAR. IT HAPPENS AT ANY TIME AFTER STARTING OUT OR ANYTIME DURING DRIVING OR IN MOTION. SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE OFTEN THE LONGER I HAVE HAD IT.

AFTER CONNECTING SEARBELT AND MOVING IN TRAFFIC THE SEAT BEGINS TO MOVE BECAUSE SEAT BELT IS HOOKED ON THE LEVER THAT MOVES THE SEAT INTO RECLINING POSITION, VERY DANGEROUS WHEN IN TRAFFIC AND TRYING TO REACH BREAK, GAS, ETC. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON MANY OCCASSIONS AND TAKES ME BY SURPRISE EVERY TIME.

AT TAKE OFFS, MY WHEELS SPIN LIKE THERE IS NO TRACTION AND I FEEL LIKE I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER MY CAR. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING, I'VE HAD TO EXAGGERATE THE TURNING OF MY STEERING WHEEL TO CHANGE LANES, WHILE PARKED AND PULLING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT, WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING BROKE(CRACKING). THIS ALSO BRINGS UP THE BRAKES ISSUE. I ALMOST T-BONED SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT AND STOPPED IN THE INTERSECTION. I HAD TIME TO STOP BUT MY BRAKES DIDN'T ALLOW TRACTION FOR MY TIRES TO STOP AND I WAS ABLE TO TURN MY STEERING WHEEL ENOUGH TO SWERVE TOWARB THE BACK OF HER TRUCK AND MISS HER.

I WENT TO CHECK ON SAFERCAR.GOV SINCE I RECEIVED A LETTER SAYING MAZDA WOULD BE REPLACING THE DASH DUE TO GLARE CONDITION POTENTIAL (2015) TO FIND UPDATED STATUS AND ALSO FOR AIR BAG. THE AIR BAG ISSUE IS STILL INCOMPLETE FOR OVER 7 MONTHS. BY VIN LOOK-UP, I FIND TWO ADDITIONAL RECALLS FOR DOOR LATCH AND FUEL TANK IN WHICH I WAS UNAWARE. DATE ON THIS COMPLAINT REFLECTS FIRST CONTACT FROM MAZDA. ALSO, 4 INTERIOR ITEMS BROKEN, INCLUDING A CRACKED REAR-VIEW MIRROR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 25,000...UPDATED 03/07/14 *BF