2002 Mercedes-Benz AMG C32

I AM CORROBORATING WHAT WAS SUBMITTED ON CLAIM 10632020. THE FRONT POWER SEATS ON BOTH SIDES OF MY CAR HAVE FAILED. WHEN THEY FAIL THERE IS A CONSTANT BATTERY DRAIN WHILE THE CAR IS OFF THAT DRAINS THE BATTERY COMPLETELY, CAUSING IT TO BE DEAD WITHIN 8 HOURS. FIRST MY DRIVERS SIDE FAILED, THEN WITHIN THE SAME YEAR THE PASSENGER SEAT FAILED. I BOUGHT TWO NEW BATTERIES AND HAD TO ARGUE WITH THE SALESMEN ABOUT WHETHER THE BATTERIES WERE GOOD OR BAD BEFORE I REALIZED THE PROBLEM WAS IN THE SEAT CONTROLS. MB WANTED MULTIPLE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO REPLACE 1 SEAT CONTROLLER. OVERALL THE ELECTRONICS ON MY CAR ARE ITS WEAKEST LINK, AND UNFORTUNATELY WHEN SOMETHING BREAKS THERE IS NO FIXING IT OTHER THAN TO REPLACE THE ASSEMBLY. MB SHOULD COVER THIS ON A RECALL BECAUSE IF SOMEONE'S MOTHER OR WIFE IS OUT ON THE ROAD AND THEY FIND THEIR BATTERY DEAD IN THE DARK OF THE NIGHT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10650264

Incident

Oct 1, 2012

Mileage

95,000 mi

SEAT CONTROL MODULE DRAINING THE BATTERY. CAR WILL NOT START IF NOT DRIVEN FOR 24 HOURS. 99% OF THE CARS WITH THE SEAT CONTROL MODULE PART NUMBER STARTING WITH "203" ARE BAD!! WHY WONT MERCEDES RECALL THEM AND REPLACE WITH NEW ONES FREE OF CHARGE. ITS OBVIOUS THAT ITS A DEFECTED PART AND IT WILL CAUSE OTHER THINGS TO GO BAD. WE SPEND ENOUGH HARD EARNED MONEY ON BUYING THE CAR TO HAVE TO PAY FOR THERE DEFECTIVE PARTS. THAT'S WHY THEY ARE CALLED THE STEALER NOT THE DEALER! *TR

NHTSA ID

10632020

Incident

Jul 17, 2014

Mileage

157,000 mi

I WOULD LIKE THE FOLLOWING ADDED TO MY ORIGINAL COMPLAINT ODI#10579532. THE FOLLOWING LETTER WAS SENT TO ME BY DAIMLER BENZ CORPORATE OFFICE IN GERMANY: [XXX] MAY 15 (1 DAY AGO) TO ME REF: [XXX] DEAR [XXX], THANK YOU FOR YOUR MOST RECENT EMAIL. WE CAN ASSURE YOU THAT ALL AUTHORIZED MERCEDES-BENZ WORKSHOPS WORLDWIDE ARE COMMITTED TO WORKING WITHIN THE GUIDELINES AND WORK INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER. IN THIS CASE, MERCEDES-BENZ RECOMMENDS THAT THE MOST EFFECTIVE REPAIR IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY, RATHER THAN THE INDIVIDUAL AFFECTED PART. WE REGRET THAT YOU FEEL WE ARE PUSHING YOU AWAY HOWEVER, AS YOUR VEHICLE IS REGISTERED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA WE MUST INVOLVE THE RESPONSIBLE ENTITY, WHICH IS MERCEDES-BENZ USA. WE HOPE YOU CAN APPRECIATE THAT DUE TO THE VARYING LEGISLATIONS WORLDWIDE, WE MUST ENSURE THAT EACH CUSTOMER IS DEALT WITH IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CORRECT PROCEDURES. MERCEDES-BENZ USA WILL ADDRESS THIS MATTER IN FULL FOR YOU AND SHALL INFORM US OF THE OUTCOME. THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN FOR TAKING THE TIME TO CONTACT US BUT REGRETTABLY WE ARE UNABLE TO ADD ANY FURTHER COMMENTS. YOURS SINCERELY [XXX] DAIMLER TEAM FOR THE BOARD OF MANAGEMENT / DAIMLER KUNDENBETREUUNGSTEAM FR DEN VORSTAND DAIMLER AG SITZ UND REGISTERGERICHT/DOMICILE AND COURT OF REGISTRY:STUTTGART INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

NHTSA ID

10588925

Incident

Apr 24, 2014

Mileage

103,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ C32 AMG. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE FUEL PUMP FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NO REPAIRS WERE MADE TO THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 103,000.

NHTSA ID

10586155

Incident

Apr 25, 2014

Mileage

103,000 mi

THIS 2002 MERCEDES C32 IS A DEATHTRAP! THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS, REAR & FORWARD SAM, FUEL PUMP, ETC, FAIL AT AN UNUSUALLY HIGH RATE. THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT INVOLVED A FAULT IN THE PRIMARY FUEL PUMP. THE MERCEDES DEALER IDENTIFIED THE FAULT AS A FAULTY PLASTIC POWER CONNECTOR ON THE PUMP AND A FAILED FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR. THEY THEN PROCEEDED TO TELL ME THAT MERCEDES BENZ NORTH AMERICA WOULD NOT SELL ME A REPLACEMENT PUMP; INSTEAD, THEY INSISTED THAT I PURCHASE AN ENTIRE NEW FUEL TANK AND WIRING HARNESS FOR $3200 PARTS AND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS MORE FRO LABOR. MERCEDES BENZ IS AWARE OF A SERIOUS DESIGN FLAW ON THIS YEAR AND MODEL, YET, REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE A VOLUNTARY RECALL! MOREOVER, THE DESIGN AND PLACEMENT OF THE TANK--A SADDLE TYPE, SITUATED UNDER THE REAR SEATS--ALLOWS DIRT, SMALL PEBBLES AND OTHER DEBRIS TO ACCUMULATE IN THE AREA (A TYPE OF WELL) OF THE FUEL PUMP(S)--THERE ARE TWO. EVERY TIME I'VE HAD THE CAR SERVICED THE TECHNICIAN HAD TO VACUUM OUT ALL THE ACCUMULATED DEBRIS. (MY NEW YORK TITLE, WHERE I ORIGINALLY REGISTERED IT AFTER PURCHASING IT USED AT A NEW CAR DEALER, NEVER INDICATED IT HAD BEEN PART OF A LEMON LAW PROCESS.) I'VE NOTICED ON THIS SITE THAT OTHERS HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT FUEL PUMP PROBLEMS, INCLUDING SERIOUS FUEL LEAKS WITH THEIR ASSOCIATED FUEL LINE FAULTS. REGARDLESS OF THE AGE OF THE VEHICLE, THESE FAILURES SHOULD NEVER TAKE PLACE!!!! MOREOVER, I AM COUNTING ON YOUR OFFICE TO INVESTIGATE THIS MATTER THOROUGHLY. IN RECENT DAYS IT HAS COME TO LIGHT THAT THE AUTO INDUSTRY HAS BEEN CRIMINALLY NEGLECTFUL WITH RESPECT TO ADDRESSING FAULTY DESIGN ISSUES. I THINK MY CIRCUMSTANCE IS YET ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF THIS PHENOMENON. MERCEDES BENZ OF NORTH AMERICA MUST BE HELD TO ACCOUNT FOR PLACING A SERIOUSLY FLAWED PRODUCT INTO THE MARKETPLACE! *JS

NHTSA ID

10579532

Incident

Apr 13, 2014

Mileage

102,000 mi

THIS 2002 MERCEDES C32 IS A DEATHTRAP! THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS, REAR & FORWARD SAM, FUEL PUMP, ETC, FAIL AT AN UNUSUALLY HIGH RATE. THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT INVOLVED A FAULT IN THE PRIMARY FUEL PUMP. THE MERCEDES DEALER IDENTIFIED THE FAULT AS A FAULTY PLASTIC POWER CONNECTOR ON THE PUMP AND A FAILED FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR. THEY THEN PROCEEDED TO TELL ME THAT MERCEDES BENZ NORTH AMERICA WOULD NOT SELL ME A REPLACEMENT PUMP; INSTEAD, THEY INSISTED THAT I PURCHASE AN ENTIRE NEW FUEL TANK AND WIRING HARNESS FOR $3200 PARTS AND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS MORE FRO LABOR. MERCEDES BENZ IS AWARE OF A SERIOUS DESIGN FLAW ON THIS YEAR AND MODEL, YET, REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE A VOLUNTARY RECALL. MOREOVER, THE DESIGN AND PLACEMENT OF THE TANK--A SADDLE TYPE, SITUATED UNDER THE REAR SEATS--ALLOWS DIRT, SMALL PEBBLES AND OTHER DEBRIS TO ACCUMULATE IN THE AREA (A TYPE OF WELL) OF THE FUEL PUMP(S)--THERE ARE TWO. EVERY TIME I'VE HAD THE CAR SERVICED THE TECHNICIAN HAD TO VACUUM OUT ALL THE ACCUMULATED DEBRIS. I'VE NOTICED ON THIS SITE THAT OTHERS HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT FUEL PUMP PROBLEMS, INCLUDING SERIOUS FUEL LEAKS WITH THEIR ASSOCIATED FUEL LINE FAULTS. REGARDLESS OF THE AGE OF THE VEHICLE, THESE FAILURES SHOULD NEVER TAKE PLACE! MOREOVER, I AM COUNTING ON YOUR OFFICE TO INVESTIGATE THIS MATTER THOROUGHLY. IN RECENT DAYS IT HAS COME TO LIGHT THAT THE AUTO INDUSTRY HAS BEEN CRIMINALLY NEGLECTFUL WITH RESPECT TO ADDRESSING FAULTY DESIGN ISSUES. I THINK MY CIRCUMSTANCE IS YET ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF THIS PHENOMENON. MERCEDES BENZ OF NORTH AMERICA MUST BE HELD TO ACCOUNT FOR PLACING A SERIOUSLY FLAWED PRODUCT INTO THE MARKETPLACE! *JS

NHTSA ID

10579528

Incident

Mar 1, 2010

Mileage

66,000 mi

THE FOLLOWING PROBLEM(S) OCCURRED ON A 2002 MERCEDES C32 AMG: THE CAR WOULD NOT START AFTER RUNNING FINE DURING THE LAST DRIVE. I SUSPECTED THE FUEL PUMP AND PROCEEDED TO INSPECT IT. AFTER REMOVING THE WIRING FROM THE FUEL PUMP LEVEL PRESSURE SENSOR (MERCEDES P/N 2034701741) THE CAR STARTED. I THEN FILLED UP THE GAS TANK, AND GAS POURED OUT ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. RE-INSPECTING THE FUEL PUMP LEVEL SENSOR SHOWED GAS POURING OUT OF IT. IT TURNS OUT THE WIRING HAD MELTED A SMALL HOLE IN THE PART AND THAT WAS THE SOURCE OF THE GAS LEAK. I REPLACED THE PART WITH AN OEM ONE ON 9/26/13 AND IT FAILED AGAIN FOR THE SAME REASON ON 10/15/13. I HAVE READ NUMEROUS REPORTS OF THIS SAME PROBLEM ACROSS THE MERCEDES LINE-UP AND OF A CLASS ACTION SUIT TO CORRECT IT. *TR

NHTSA ID

10548193

Incident

Sep 20, 2013

Mileage

111,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).