2010 Mercedes-Benz AMG CLS63

Complaint Repeat workshop visit for vehicle vibration while braking from 60MPH. NOTE: Although the symptom is similar to a tire or wheel vibration, it is usually readily noticeable that it is distinctly different if it happens at all times or only while braking. Cause Although the cause of the vibration is most likely due to excessive lateral runout on the rotor or hub/wheel bearing, the system as a whole needs to be checked for other possible contributors. 1. Prior collision damage. 2. Excessive vehicle sitting times without rotating components. 3. Wheel bearing/hub lateral runout. 4. Wheel mating interface has been overtightened (did not follow WIS torque procedures). 5. Mating interfaces have been excessively modified (painted, gouged, bent, etc...). Remedy Read through the entire attached worksheet prior to performing. After performing, please review the final page and perform work accordingly. NOTE: This document is not pre‑authorization or otherwise dealing with warranty. This is intended for diagnostic purposes only. If there are any questions on how to proceed OR The work sheet has been performed and the vehicle has returned with the same concern. Please perform the measurements as seen in the worksheet again and open a TIPS case to the Body, Chassis, and Entertainment team.

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Note: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, once diagnosis is completed, select the damage code depending on the component part that is causing the issue. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10‑P‑067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some scenarios are normal and some are induced by driving style like those listed below: • Driving style such as two footed driving where the pad might be in constant contact with the rotor. • Brake pressure and application style (stop‑and‑go traffic with consistent light brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). This can cause the brake pads to glaze and have a smooth/glassy surface which can induce noise. • When ambient temperatures rise during summer peak and during cooling and cold winter months. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3‑4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re‑assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and Molykote as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston‑side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture "Adhesive and Paste Application Area". 4. Be sure to remove both brown paper backing sides of the adhesive film, it is double sided adhesive film. 5. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate where pistons contact the back of the pad, you may gently scrape off and re‑apply a new adhesive or Molykote. Must not apply the Molykote on top of the adhesive. 6. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture "Chamfering Technique". 7. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture "Adhesive and Paste Application Area". 8. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper /carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston‑side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture "Chamfering Technique". 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment "Rear Pad Grease Area") between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).