2006 Mercedes-Benz R350

The contact owns a 2006 Mercedes-Benz R350. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 22V315000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The dealer was made aware of the issue. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect

NHTSA ID

11483031

Incident

Sep 6, 2022

My car has stalled several times, either when I am driving, or when I stop at a traffic light. Rough idling and/or running when stopped at a red light or driving at speeds that wouldn’t normally be an issue. Engine stalling or misfiring, and car sometimes have trouble starting up. Loud rattling or vibrating noises from the engine. The check engine light is turned on. I took it to Mercedes Benz Dealership in Brooklyn, NY and was told it is a Balance Shaft problem, and they told me it could cost me about $9,000.00. Further research informs me that the problem should not be ignored, nor repair put off. Also, that failure of the balance shaft leaves the inner components of the engine unsecured and therefore will ultimately result in damage to the engine if left unchecked. Also, that driving at high speeds for long periods can agitate the problem even further due to the constant vibrations without a proper securing mechanism. As a result, I parked my car for several months, since I cannot afford the amount they quoted. In essence, I cannot even enjoy the car I bought.

NHTSA ID

11470159

Incident

Aug 27, 2020

AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY I PRESSED ON GAS PEDAL AND VEHICLE MADE A VERY LOUD CHAIN WHINE NOISE AND IT CUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF HIGHWAY AND NEVER STARTED BACK UP.

NHTSA ID

11339768

Incident

May 1, 2020

Mileage

98,000 mi

MY ABS MY EESP MY BRAKE LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT MINE ANYWAYS THE WHOLE CLUSTER IS GOING CRAZY IT'S HARD TO SHIFT DOWN WHEN I'M COMING TO A STOP NOT ALL THE TIME BUT JUST SOMETIMES SO I GOT A MIND OF ITS OWN MY SPEEDOMETER GOES UP AND DOWN IT SAYS CHECK MY TIRE PRESSURE WHEN IT'S GOOD MY SRS LIGHT COMES ON MY BRAKES LIGHTS COMES ON IT SAYS DIONOSTIC RIG TEST, ABS LIGHT SAYS DIONOSTIC RIG TEST, ESPECIALLY LIGHT SAYS DIONOSTIC RIG TEST. BRAKE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF AND A CONTINUOUS BEEBING. IT ALSO SAYS DO NOT CHANGE GEARS DRIVE TO WORK SHOP.$ YOUR PAPER WILL NOT ALLOW ME TO CHECK OTHER BOXES THAT I'M HAVING PROBLEM WIT

NHTSA ID

11291884

Incident

Aug 27, 2019

Mileage

204,000 mi

MAY 13, 2019, MY WIFE STARTED THE CAR AND DROVE FOR LESS THAN A MILE WHEN HER DRESS STARTED SMOKING FROM THE DRIVER SEAT THAT WAS ALIGHT. SHE STOPPED THE CAR AND REMOVED OUR 11 MONTH OLD BABY FROM THE BACKSEAT AND CALLED ME. SHE HAS A VIDEO OF THE INCIDENT. I CHECKED ON MERCEDES USA SITE AND FOUND OUT THAT THERE WAS A CLASS ACTION LAW SUITE ON THIS ISSUE. WE WERE NOT NOTIFIED BY EITHER MB OR THE ADMINISTRATOR OF THE CASE. THIS COULD HAVE TURNED OUT DEADLY AS THE BATTERY IS UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT AND THE FUEL LINES. I TURNED THE CAR ON AND AGAIN , THE SEAT STARTED TO SMOKE. IT IS NOW PARKED IN OUR DRIVEWAY AS MY WIFE AND I ARE SCARED OF PUTTING OUR KIDS IN IT. I CONTACTED MB USA AND THEY DIRECTED ME TO THE ADMINISTRATOR OF THE LAW SUITE. THIS CAN CREATE DANGEROUS OR EVEN DEADLY SITUATIONS IF MY WAS ON A HIGHWAY AND COULD NOT STOP OR FIE ESCALATES RAPIDLY WITH OUR CHILD IN THE BACK SEAT.

NHTSA ID

11207461

Incident

May 13, 2019

Mileage

146,000 mi

MERCEDES 2006 WHEN I BRAKE THE CAR WILL KEEP GOING. SUDDEN ACCELERATION. THIS HAS HAPPEN TWICE AND I HAVE NOT OWNED THE CAR FOR A YEAR. I COULD KILL SOMEONE. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND THREE DIFFERENT SHOPS AND NO ONE KNOWS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT HELP

NHTSA ID

11180304

Incident

Jan 16, 2019

Mileage

120,000 mi

COMPLAINT IS DIRECTED TO [email protected] IN FOREST GROVE, OREGON. AT TIME OF PURCHASE, TIRES WERE TOTALLY WORN AND DEALER AGREED TO NEW TIRE REPLACEMENT. SUBSEQUENT EVENT REVEALED REPLACEMENT TIRES WERE NOT NEW AND HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN IMPROPERLY REPAIRED. IN ADDITION, LOAD FACTOR WAS BELOW MINIMUM MANUFACTURERS RATING AND UNSAFE. DEALER REFUSED TO REIMBURSE COST OF NEW AND CORRECT REPLACEMENT TIRES.

NHTSA ID

11122735

Incident

Aug 5, 2018

Mileage

108,951 mi

TAKATA RECALL. I PURCHASED MY 2006 MERCEDES R350 IN 2016 WITH OVER 100K MILES ON IT. WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ALREADY ON. I USED A SCANNER TOOL FOR AN ACCURATE DIAGNOSIS. AS IT STATED TWO ISSUES. A CRANK SHAFT SENSOR/ CAM SHAFT SENSOR WAS NEEDED. SO I DECIDED AGAINST MY BETTER JUDGEMENT TO FINALIZE THE PURCHASE ANYWAY. NEEDLESS TO SAY, AFTER I CHANGED THE SENSORS THE PROBLEM STILL REMAINS. AFTER DOING A LOT OF RESEARCH AND SPENT UNNECESSARY MONEY, IT WAS BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION THAT THE PROBLEM IS IN FACT A FAULTY BALANCE SHAFT INSIDE OF THE ENGINE. DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFAULT. THAT WAS COVERED MY MERCEDES IN A RECALL AT ONE POINT BEFORE I HAD PURCHASED THE VEHICLE. FOR SOMETHING AS SERIOUS AS A DEFECTED PART IN A MOTOR SHOULD NOT BE LIMITED TO WHEN YOU PURCHASE THE VEHICLE, BUT WHENEVER IT IS BROUGHT TO THEIR ATTENTION IT SHOULD BE REPAIRED WITHOUT HESITATION SINCE THIS IS A MANUFACTURING DEFAULT AND NOT SOMETHING THAT WAS DONE BY ANY PREVIOUS OWNERS. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IF ANYTHING CAN BE DONE TO HELP ME RESOLVE THIS ISSUE AT HAND. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

NHTSA ID

11083807

Incident

Apr 30, 2016

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).