2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK320

rear lights malfunction and UNKNOWN

NHTSA ID

11694838

Incident

Aug 1, 2025

Driving low speed, about 30 MPH, right front wheel begins braking in anti-lock mode. Car pulls right. BAS/ESP light comes on. Was just driving, never touched the brake pedal.

NHTSA ID

11631250

Incident

Dec 17, 2024

while driving on the highway/freeway system in the Portland Oregon area on several occasions one of which i initiated myself activated the cruise control immediately after initiating the vehicle began to increase its speed to the continuing to speeds well beyond the 100 mile per hour mark I was not able to deactivate the cruise control in the usual ways pressing the brake pedal did not work cruise control knob has a cancel that was not responsive either on two other times this happened when I while driving the same thing happened but i was un aware i had touched the cruise control knob one of which a friend of mine was driving and i failed to notify the individual to be extremely careful not to use cruise control he had initiated by accident since it was so close to the blinker control switch He had more strength than i did and managed to bring it to a full stop burning through brake pads leaving it smelling as though there was a fire that had taken place in the vehicle, I recently read that another company that made similar vehicles as the Mercedes Benz slk model was having similar problemns

NHTSA ID

11523731

Incident

Jan 5, 2023

* Brake system has failed by brakes applying randomly; research indicates due to faulty YAW sensor and Lateral Movement sensor per mechanic who retrieved the codes. Per Mercedes Benz, these sensors are no longer available and they're no longer making them. There are no aftermarket parts available. * Brakes have applied randomly at various speeds and causes a loss of control of the vehicle. This has been happening over the last few months and poses a very deadly situation. * Independent MB Specialist Master Mechanic pulled codes and confirmed problem. He advised there are no parts available. * No lamps indicated problem was imminent.

NHTSA ID

11465574

Incident

May 19, 2022

SLK320 CAR AUTO APPLIES BREAKS TILL CARS STOPS ! VERY DANGEROUS

NHTSA ID

11363629

Incident

Oct 9, 2020

Mileage

150,000 mi

ON THREE OCCASIONS THE BRAKES WERE APPLIED BY THE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM WITHOUT DRIVER INTERVENTION. IN THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE THIS ACTION PLACED THE DRIVER AND OTHER MOTORIST IN THE VICINITY OF THE CAR IN EXTREME DANGER. TRAVELING EAST BOUND ON HIGHWAY 80 THROUGH FAIRFIELD CALIFORNIA IN THE LEFT LANE AT APPROXIMATELY 75 MPH, THE BRAKES WERE ABRUPTLY ACTIVATED BY THE STABILITY SYSTEM CAUSING THE CAR TO YAW TO THE RIGHT AND THEN SUDDENLY TO THE LEFT. FORTUNATELY THERE WAS ENOUGH DISTANCE BETWEEN OTHER MOTORIST THAT THERE WAS NOT A COLLISION. THE CAR DID HOWEVER ALMOST COLLIDE WITH THE CENTER BARRIER. THIS WAS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION.

NHTSA ID

11344210

Incident

Jul 25, 2020

Mileage

135,000 mi

I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THIS IS INVOLVING, BUT FROM WHAT I HAVE READ IT MAY BE A SENSOR AND EVERYBODY THAT HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM COULD NOT EASILY GET A MECHANIC THAT UNDERSTOOD WHAT TO DO. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS ISSUE. THIS HAS HAPPENED NOW THREE TIMES AND I CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR NOW. I HAVE LOW MILEAGE ON THIS CAR. I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 55 MILES AND HOUR AND SUDDENLY MY CAR BRAKED, MADE A SCRAPING NOISE & SWERVED TO THE RIGHT. THIS LASTED 20 SECONDS. IT SCARED ME SINCE SOMEONE WAS BEHIND ME AND ABOUT RAN INTO MY REAR END, NOT TO MENTION OTHER CARS AROUND ME. MY MECHANIC CHECKED MY CAR WITH THE BENZ COMPUTER SYSTEM AND DID NOT FIND ANYTHING AND TOLD ME SOMETIMES THIS HAPPENS AND IT NEVER HAPPENS AGAIN. TONIGHT IT HAPPENED TWO MORE TIMES ON THE FREEWAY AND WHILE DRIVING OVER THE CANYON WHERE MANY CARS GO OFF THE CANYON ROAD OVER CLIFFS. IT LASTED A GOOD 20 SECONDS DOING THE SAME THING AND IT WAS A CROWDED FREEWAY. THIS TIME I FOUND THAT MY BAS/ESP LIGHT CAME ON. AFTER RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE I FIND THAT YOUR COMPANY DROPPED THE RECALL ISSUE ON THIS CAR WHEN THIS IS AN EXTREMELY SERIOUS PROBLEM. MOST MECHANICS CANNOT FIX THIS PROBLEM AND I SEE THAT MERCEDES KNOWS ABOUT THIS & THAT THERE WAS A POTENTIAL RECALL ISSUE. DOES SOMEBODY NEED TO DIE TO FIX THIS WITH A RECALL? VERY FRIGHTENING THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT BEEN TAKEN CARE. AS SAID MANY MECHANICS DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS AND CARS STILL HAVE THE SAME SERIOUS PROBLEM. HOW CAN THIS ISSUE BE TAKEN LIGHTLY??

NHTSA ID

11058422

Incident

Jan 3, 2018

Mileage

79,861 mi

VEHICLE APPLIED BRAKES ON IT'S OWN AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND NO DRIVER APPLICATION. THE BAS/ESP ALARM LIGHTS CAME ON AND THE VEHICLE SEEMED TO BE OK UNTIL IT WAS TURNED OFF. THE ALARM CLEARED WHEN RESTARTED BUT THE VEHICLE APPLIED BRAKES AGAIN ON IT'S OWN AND THE INDICATORS CAME BACK ON. THE REPAIR SHOP COULD NOT GET A CODE BECAUSE IT WAS NOT ON WHEN THEY CHECKED IT. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 10-12 TIMES BUT ONLY DURING HOURS WHEN THE BUSINESS IS CLOSED. I LET MY LOCAL MECHANIC DRIVE IT FOR A WEEK AND IT NEVER HAPPENED WITH HIM. THIS IS VERY SPORADIC BUT DANGEROUS SITUATION. I'VE SEEN NUMEROUS ENTRIES ON SLK FORUMS WITH OWNERS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE.

NHTSA ID

10984883

Incident

Apr 15, 2017

Mileage

49,500 mi

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).