Recalls, owner-reported complaints, investigations and safety data
Data refreshed
Our database contains 10 NHTSA owner-reported complaints for the 2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK320, most frequently naming the brakes, exterior lighting and driver assistance categories. 27 manufacturer communications are on file.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
When owners filed reports about this model year
| Month | Complaints filed | Cumulative |
|---|---|---|
| Sep 2012 | 1 | 1 |
| Mar 2014 | 1 | 2 |
| Jul 2014 | 1 | 3 |
| Sep 2014 | 1 | 4 |
| Jun 2015 | 1 | 5 |
| Jun 2016 | 1 | 6 |
| Oct 2016 | 1 | 7 |
| Mar 2023 | 1 | 8 |
| Jun 2023 | 1 | 9 |
| Dec 2025 | 1 | 10 |
Complaints grouped by the component NHTSA recorded
Percentages are of component mentions. A single complaint can name more than one component, so these do not sum to the total complaint count.
No recalls in our database for this model year
That does not guarantee a specific vehicle is unaffected — recalls are issued against VINs, and new campaigns are announced regularly. Check a VIN on NHTSA.gov.
Reports submitted to NHTSA, shown in the owner's own words
Previous recall 05V505 has been completed but the issue has returned the issue has been intermittent for a fee months but the tail light has been non op for a few months, i have tried different sockets and bulbs to no avail. The issue has not caused any incidents but i have no brake light on the drivers side due to melting on the lamp itself aswell as the pins on the connector are warped
The contact owns a 2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK320. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the message that the rear light had malfunctioned was displayed. Upon inspection, it was discovered that while depressing the brake pedal, the driver’s side brake light failed to illuminate as needed. The vehicle was taken to the local mechanic who diagnosed that the rear lamp module was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer and local dealer were notified of the failure and informed the contact that the VIN was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 05V505000 (Exterior Lighting). The contact stated that the vehicle had experienced that failure listed in the recall. The failure mileage was 106,000.
The contact owns a 2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK320. The contact stated while driving 55 MPH, the vehicle failed to accelerate as it went into Limp mode. Several warning lights were illuminated. The contact stated that he had replaced the spark plugs and the accelerator pedal; however, the failure persisted, and the engine was misfiring. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that the PCM, the speed sensor, and the ignition coil were malfunctioning. The vehicle was not repaired. Additionally, the contact stated that the defroster had failed. The dealer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and confirmed that the vehicle was not included in a recall. The manufacturer referred the contact to the NHTSA hotline for assistance. The approximate failure mileage was 145,000.
THE BAS/ESP LIGHT AND SUDDEN BRAKING JUST OCCURRED TODAY(10.11.16) ON OUR 2002 MERCEDES BENZ SLK 320. THIS HAPPENED THREE TIMES IN ABOUT AN HOUR OF DRIVING ON CITY STREETS BETWEEN 15 AND 45 MPH. ONE OCCURRENCE WAS WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT, THE OTHER TWO HAPPENED WHILE CHANGING LANES IN MOVING TRAFFIC. THE EXPERIENCE TODAY WAS THAT THE CAR HAD A BRIEF MOMENTARY HARD BRAKING. FIRST ON THE LEFT FRONT AND THEN THE RIGHT FRONT (2 SEPARATE TIMES). EACH WAS A SEPARATE INCIDENT AND EACH TIME THE BAS/ESP LIGHT LIT UP AFTERWARD. AFTER INTERNET RESEARCH, IT APPEARS THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG THE SLK LINE AND POSSIBLY EXTENDS TO OTHER MODELS. IN MERCEDES BENZ ONLINE COMMUNITIES, MANY OTHERS HAVE STATED EXPERIENCING THIS SAME PROBLEM. THERE ARE APPARENTLY NUMEROUS POTENTIAL REMEDIES. TO MY KNOWLEDGE, THE CULPRITS(S) COULD BE, BUT ARE NOT LIMITED TO, NUMEROUS SENSORS MALFUNCTIONING. I.E.: YAW SENSOR, LATERAL ACCELERATION SENSOR, STEERING ANGLE SENSOR, BAS RELEASE SWITCH, MAF SENSOR, ROTATIONAL SPEED SENSOR, TO NAME A FEW. THIS SEEMS TO BE OCCURRING OFTEN ENOUGH TO DEMAND A RECALL.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ SLK320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TAIL LIGHTS FAILED AND AN UNKNOWN ERROR MESSAGE ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY SERVICED UNDER A MANUFACTURER SATISFACTION CAMPAIGN; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLIES WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON SIX OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000. ..UPDATED 07/20/16 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED FROM THE DEALER THE GAS CAP LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED THE VEHICLE WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. UPDATED 10/19/2017*JS
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ SLK320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 60 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND UNKNOWN WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. IN ADDITION, THE BRAKE AUTOMATICALLY ENGAGED CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO RESTART. IN ADDITION, THE REAR AND DRIVER SIDE MIRRORS AUTOMATICALLY DIMMED IN LIGHTING CAUSING IT HARDER TO VIEW THE ROAD WHEN DRIVING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 34,000. UPDATED 09/09/15*LJ UPDATED 10/31/2017*CN
FAST MOVING TRAFFIC, DRY WEATHER. ALL OF A SUDDEN CAR APPLIED BRAKES, THOUGHT I WAS HAVING ONE OF THE TIRES BREAKING INTO PIECES. THIS LASTED UNTIL I PULLED OVER AND STOPPED, NEVER EXPERIENCED ANYTHING LIKE THIS. AN INEXPERIENCED DRIVER IN THIS FAST TRAFFIC SURELY WOULD HAVE HAD AN ACCIDENT, MAYBE EVEN FATALLY. ANYWAY, I SAW NOTHING BROKEN, ALL TIRE IN TACT, SO I CONTINUED. THIS WAS IN FL AND HAVING JUST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE THE NIGHT BEFORE, I WAS ON A LONG JOURNEY TO MY HOME STATE DE. IT DID HAPPEN A COUPLE OF MORE TIME WITH LIGHTER IMPACT. TODAY IS MONDAY SEPT.29TH, I AM BACK AND HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING MBENZ FORUMS AND FOUND OUT, NOT DEFINITE, PEOPLE BELIEVE IT IS YAW SENSOR. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE DEALT WITH AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. *TR
THE CAR SUDDENLY BRAKES FOR ABOUT ONE SECOND, AND THE BAS-ESP LIGHTS ILLUMINATE, AND IT RESUMES TO NORMAL DRIVING. *TR
A bulletin sent by a manufacturer to its dealers. Not a recall, and repairs are not necessarily free.
POWER TRAIN
Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).
VISIBILITY/WIPER
Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.
Manufacturers file copies of the bulletins they send to dealers with NHTSA. These often describe diagnostic or repair procedures for a known condition. They are not recalls: repairs described in a bulletin are usually only free if the vehicle is still under warranty or the manufacturer has extended coverage.
Complaint and recall counts across every year of this model
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers. Older model years have had longer for reports to accumulate.