2020 Subaru Impreza Problems

For the second year in a row my windshield has cracked. Nothing hit it, or happened to make it crack. Both cracks were long and coming from the bottom of the windshield under the passenger wiper blade. I noticed it today, 4/28/26 and the same thing happened in the beginning of April last year with the same circumstances (or lack thereof).

I HAVE NOW HAD 4 WINDSHIELDS CRACK AND BREAK AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. IT SEEMS LIKE EVERY TIME ONE LITTLE ROCK HITS THE WINDSHIELD BOOM ANOTHER FULL REPLACEMENT IS NEEDED. EVERY TIME I GO FOR A ROAD TRIP THIS KEEPS HAPPENING THE MUST BE A DEFECT WITH THE DESIGN OR TYPE OF GLASS USED FOR THE SUBARU IMPREZA 2020 MODELS.

Reference complaint no.11684658 confirmed. From email from Tech representative "VDC HYDRAULIC UNIT REPLACEMENT. IT IS AN INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE ABS CONTROL UNIT. THERE ARE SENSORS INSIDE THAT MEASURE BRAKE LINE PRESSURE. THE LEFT FRONT SENSOR IS STUCK AT NEGATIVE 59 BAR. SHOULD BE ZERO AT REST. NOTHING TO DO WITH EYESIGHT THAT LIGHT WILL COME ON WHENEVER THERE IS A WARNING LIGHT ON." The modulator is a safety critical component which undergoes extensive life time testing, one out of 4 pressure sensors should not fail during vehicle life time.

The Eye Sight warning system is activated occasionally and VDC is cut off. The dealer diagnosed code C1742, and recommended replacing the control unit due to a pressure sensor issue after measurement. The units are on back order, which indicates to me a wider spread problem. VDC units should not fail even after 10 years.

The electrical system failed and battery then exploded. The vehicle is behind held at a tow yard and has been inspected by allied insurance CPI of tower federal credit union. It is available to be inspected for the time being but will be scrapped soon. Both my safety and the safety of others was at risk- this occurred in a Wendy’s drive through near other vehicles, a building and of course people there in. There’s video footage of the incident taken by Wendy’s staff. The car stopped running as the fire caught- I ( the driver ) had to push the vehicle physically away from the building and cars and got away only one minute before it entirely exploded. Whether or not the problem has been confirmed or reproduced elsewhere is UNKNOWN. The fire was extinguished by firefighters and police did take a report as well. There was absolutely no warning that there was an issue prior - not even a hazard light- the only thing I noticed was my oil temp had begun to increase.

Both rear doors will intermittently not open when unlocked from both the inside or the outside. I am unsure if this is electrical or related to the door components itself. This is a hazard because passengers have been locked in the back of the car, and needed to climb out from the front or needed me to open the door from the outside if it will open—which could be a deadly amount of extra time in an emergency situation where passengers need to quickly exit the vehicle. This issue has been going on over a year, but I did not take it in until two months ago because I rarely had back passengers. That has changed, so I took it in. I have brought the car to the dealership three times for this issue, which is as of now still unresolved, with the following results: 1st visit: They told me child lock was on and turned it off. (I do not believe this, as the doors would occasionally open correctly from the inside—so that would mean child lock is also faulty) 2nd visit: They found weak actuators in both doors and replaced them. 3rd visit: Currently still in the shop for other unrelated issues, but they are having a hard time diagnosing the cause since the doors will open for them—but the lady who checked me in experienced the door sticking with me, and she said she could tell something was wrong.

I got into an accident going 60 miles an hour I crash into a guardrail totaled the car but no airbags deployed I broke my wrist and dislocated my thumb

Passenger Air-bag igniter's wiring shorted out releasing gas into car. The windows were up and the car was not running. I was sitting in passenger side went to light my cigarette and with no warning at all KABOOM!!! Car exploded catching my hair on fire as well as 2nd and 3rd degree burns on hands and 1st and 2nd degree burns on face. The explosion carried so much force that the doors and back hatch were dented outward making it impossible to shut and lock doors properly. Explosion was so loud the people inside the bar thought a bomb had gone off. This incident was not reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or insurance company due to the fact the car was stolen directly after incident due to the fact that the doors could not shut properly. Prior to this incident no warning lights had gone off to indicate a malfunction in the passenger airbag or the wiring. I guess I was at the wrong place at the wrong time.

Reference complaint no.11684658 confirmed. From email from Tech representative "VDC HYDRAULIC UNIT REPLACEMENT. IT IS AN INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE ABS CONTROL UNIT. THERE ARE SENSORS INSIDE THAT MEASURE BRAKE LINE PRESSURE. THE LEFT FRONT SENSOR IS STUCK AT NEGATIVE 59 BAR. SHOULD BE ZERO AT REST. NOTHING TO DO WITH EYESIGHT THAT LIGHT WILL COME ON WHENEVER THERE IS A WARNING LIGHT ON." The modulator is a safety critical component which undergoes extensive life time testing, one out of 4 pressure sensors should not fail during vehicle life time.

The Eye Sight warning system is activated occasionally and VDC is cut off. The dealer diagnosed code C1742, and recommended replacing the control unit due to a pressure sensor issue after measurement. The units are on back order, which indicates to me a wider spread problem. VDC units should not fail even after 10 years.

White smoke mechanic claims oil mixed with the antifreeze. And stated that the engine needed to be replaced.

On 3 separate occasions since I've had my car, it has powered off completely without warning while driving. This is very dangerous could cause a severe accident or death. I called a tow truck on 3 separate occasions (1/27/23; 2/26/24; 2/28/24) to take it to the dealer or car repair business. Then after 20 - 30 minutes, it starts up again like normal. This make of cars made in 2020 have recalls for this same problem except for the model I have. The maker of these cars are not responding to keep their customers safe and continue to lie about the problems these cars are having. They are poorly made and extremely unsafe.

Both rear doors will intermittently not open when unlocked from both the inside or the outside. I am unsure if this is electrical or related to the door components itself. This is a hazard because passengers have been locked in the back of the car, and needed to climb out from the front or needed me to open the door from the outside if it will open—which could be a deadly amount of extra time in an emergency situation where passengers need to quickly exit the vehicle. This issue has been going on over a year, but I did not take it in until two months ago because I rarely had back passengers. That has changed, so I took it in. I have brought the car to the dealership three times for this issue, which is as of now still unresolved, with the following results: 1st visit: They told me child lock was on and turned it off. (I do not believe this, as the doors would occasionally open correctly from the inside—so that would mean child lock is also faulty) 2nd visit: They found weak actuators in both doors and replaced them. 3rd visit: Currently still in the shop for other unrelated issues, but they are having a hard time diagnosing the cause since the doors will open for them—but the lady who checked me in experienced the door sticking with me, and she said she could tell something was wrong.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2020 SUBARU IMPREZA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE HEADLIGHTS BECAME INOPERABLE AND FAILED TO RETURN TO NORMAL OPERATION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER MONITORING SYSTEM TEMPORARILY STOPPED MESSAGE WAS DISPLAYED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1,000.

The problem has been recognized as a vehicle that is not meeting manufacturer specifications by the Subaru from Pembroke Pines. Shifting and harm is visible to frame and vehicle is having clonking and parts are touching.

FOR A NEW CAR THAT IS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD,5000 MILE,THE CHASSIS PARTS FALL OFF DURING DRIVING,WHICH IS TOO DANGEROUS IN MOTION - ON A CITY STREET -TURNING

P205/50R17 Driver side rear tire suddenly experiencing lots of pressure compared to others. Example 27.7 psi on a subject tire compared to 32.0 psi on others after approximately one week of garage storage. Upon inspection, tread separation/ visible cracking is visible on approximately 1/2 of the circumference of the tire. No warning lights from the vehicles tire pressure monitor system has activated and no trouble codes for that system or others are present, indicating the vehicle at least is not aware of a problem with the tire. Tire pressure sensor reports good battery, accurate pressure when compared to Tire gauge pressure, and reports temperature of approximately the ambient temperature (at the moment, is currently 57.0°F). Vehicle has been mostly garage kept since purchase due to Covid. Has experienced normal North Carolina Summer temperatures though recently within two weeks North Carolina has had some of the coldest weather in some time (Lows mid teens, highs low 30s). Manufacturer has been contacted and currently awaiting response. With my previous experience and knowledge in the automotive industry, it appears that the visible cracking on the tire is relatively new. The inner portions of the cracked area, for instance, are clean and free of any debris, dust or dirt.

The problem has been recognized as a vehicle that is not meeting manufacturer specifications by the Subaru from Pembroke Pines. Shifting and harm is visible to frame and vehicle is having clonking and parts are touching.