Owner-reported complaints naming the electrical system, filed with NHTSA
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Reports naming the electrical system — wiring, battery, charging, control modules, infotainment and electrical accessories. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2012 Toyota Camry submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 62 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
The 25 most recent of 62, in the owner's own words
I am noticing there is some wiggling and play with the driver’s seat. Every time I hop inside the car, I feel the seat wiggle back a little bit. I notice some movement back and forth when accelerating and braking and it is starting to get very annoying whenever I drive.
Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2012 Toyota Camry. The contact discovered a mileage discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a dealer sale from AJ Sales & Services in Houston, TX. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 101,375. It was later discovered that the mileage on the Title was 245,980. Upon further investigation, the contact became aware that the vehicle was an Auction vehicle that was purchased by the dealer on 08/06/2024. The mileage after the auction sale was 101,294. The contact had also purchased two other vehicles from the same dealer, and there were also discrepancies with the mileages. The contact first purchased a 2014 Kia Optima. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 112,610, and it was later discovered that the mileage on the Title was 214,175. The second vehicle purchased was a 2015 Hyundai Sonata. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 101,000. It was later discovered that the mileage on the Title was 198,826. The contact stated that the engines seized in the first and second vehicles five months after purchasing the vehicles.
Steering wheel is hard to turn
Abs light flashes randomly at me when driving and at a stop car shakes aggressively
"I was driving when the passenger airbag light came on and wouldn't turn off. At the same time, my steering wheel locked up, and my car started making a whining/humming sound. The lights began blinking on and off, and the battery light came on, even though the battery was brand new. Finally, my car completely shut off while I was driving in the middle of the street." A few years ago, I encountered a similar situation when a new computer component was installed, but they had trouble identifying the issues. It ended up costing me over a thousand dollars for problems they weren't certain about. Each time they added more parts, it turned out that it wasn't the solution. I'm hesitant to take it back to the dealership for fear of facing the same issues again. I plan to file a formal complaint and seek advice or assistance regarding this issue. Upon reviewing previous complaints, I noticed several similarities. I was never contacted by anyone regarding the recall on the airbag issues, and I would like this to be rectified immediately.
My car has a problem shifting into first gear and is jerking so bad I was driving and it actually was going super slow and going and secure and I almost got hit from behind it is stuttering and hesitating going into the lower gears it also keeps showing the traction light off and on and when it's on it causes It 2 sway a lot
I was driving about 70 mph on interstate 95 and all of a sudden my car shut off while going 70 mph my check engine light and the traction control light came on the car came back on while still going 70 mph picked up where it left off it was a bit Scary
I HAD TROUBLE STARTING MY CAR, SO I RECEIVED A JUMP. MY CAR STARTED UP JUST FINE AND WAS DRIVING NORMALLY. AFTER ABOUT 2-3 MINUTES, I HAD NOTICED THE EPS LIGHT POP UP ON MY DASH. AT THAT POINT, MY CAR BECAME DIFFICULT TO STEER. I HAD TO PULL THE WHEEL HARD TO CHANGE LANES A D EVEN HARDER TO BE ABLE TO MAKE ANY TURNS. AFTER ABOUT ANOTHER MINUTE OR TWO, ALL OF THE WARNING LIGHTS IN MY DASH IT UP, AND THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I WAS UNABLE TO START IT AT THAT POINT OR TURN THE WHEEL. I RECEIVED A JUMP START AGAIN, AND THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENED. THE CAR DROVE NORMAL FOR A FEW MINUTES. THE EPS LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN. STEERING BECAME DIFFICULT AGAIN. THEN ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH FLASHED, AND THE CAR DIED AGAIN. THANKFULLY I WAS NOT ON A MAJOR ROAD EITHER TIME THAT IT HAD DIED.
THE CENTER ELECTRONIC 6 FUNCTION ETUNE CONSOLE, WHICH CONTAINS THE RADIO/CD PLAYER, GPS, CAR AND CELL PHONE OPERATIONS, DIED ON NOV 16, 2020. I MADE APPOINTMENT AND TOOK IT TO DAYTONA TOYOTA THE NEXT DAY. THE TECH DID A DIAGNOSTIC AND TOLD ME THAT THE RADIO UNIT WAS FRIED. SM SAID A REPLACEMENT UNIT WOULD COST $827. I AGREED. I DROVE MY CAR HOME AND NOTICED THAT THE RADIO HAD REVIVED, BUT THE ONLY THING IN THE LCD PANEL WAS THE STATION # IN THE TOP LEFT CORNER OF SCREEN. NO OTHER FUNCTION WORKED AND I NOTICED FOR THE FIRST TIME THAT THE STEERING WHEEL STEREO/MODE CONTROLS DID NOT WORK. I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK 4 DAYS LATER TO HAVE THE RADIO REPLACED AND TOLD THEM THAT THE OLD RADIO AM/FM HAD BEEN WORKING, BUT NONE OF THE OTHER FUNCTIONS, AND THE STEERING WHEEL FUNCTION BUTTONS DID NOT WORK. THE TECH DID A 2ND DIAGNOSTIC AND FOUND THAT THE WIRING HARNESS HAD BECOME TWISTED AND SOME OF THE CONNECTORS PULLED LOOSE. THEY TOLD ME IT WOULD BE AN ADDITIONAL $650 TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE WIRING HARNESS. THEY ORDERED THE PART AND REPLACED IT TWO DAYS LATER. HAS ANY OTHER TOYOTA OWNER REPORTED THIS PROBLEM?
I RECENTLY TOOK MY 2012 TOYOTA CAMRY SE IN FOR THE REPAIR ON MY SWAY BARS AND I HEARD A RATTLING NOISE IN/NEAR MY STEERING WHEEL/COLUMN. I THEN TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER TO HAVE THE LOWER STEERING SHAFT REPLACE BUT THE RATTLING NOISE WAS THERE AND WAS GETTING WORSE. I TOOK MY CAR TO ANOTHER CERTIFIED MECHANIC FOR A SECOND OPINION AND HE SAID THAT THE POWER STEERING ELECTRICAL COMPONENT SYSTEM WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. AND THAT I WOULD NEED TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. I FEAR FOR MY LIFE AND GET OVERLY ANXIOUS WHEN I DRIVE BECAUSE ONCE YOU GET TO AT LEAST 30 MPH IT SOUNDS LIKE THE STEERING WHEEL IS GOING TO COME. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID FOR ME TO BRING IT BACK IN BUT THEY HAVE TRIED TO DIAGNOSIS THREE TIMES. THIS IS MY ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION. I ALSO HAD THE FRONT DRIVER AND PASSENGER STRUT AND SHOCK, AND MOUNT ASSEMBLY REPAIRED.
EPS LIGHT IS COMING ON. I SEE THAT OTHER CARS THAT IS ON RECALL ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. WHILE DRIVING THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKS UPS
DRIVER SIDE MIRROR ADJUSTMENT SWITCH IS NOT WORKING.
ON TWO OCCASIONS, WHILE DRIVING, THE ENGINE TURNED OFF FOR APPROXIMATELY 1 OR 2 MINUTES, LEADING TO A LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKES AND THE STEERING. THEN IT AUTOMATICALLY TURNED BACK ON, AND I COULD CONTINUE DRIVING. ON BOTH OCCASIONS I WAS DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 20KMS PER HOUR, AND I WAS MAKING A TURN. ON THE 2ND OCCASION, THE CAR WENT UPONTO THE SIDEWALK AND CRASHED INTO A TALL STEP THAT PROECTED THE CAR FROM GOING THROUGH THE DISPLAY WINDOW. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE AGENCY IN CUERNAVACA, MEXICO AND THEY RAN A SCAN THAT INDICATED THAT THE ENGINE HAD IN FACT TURNED OFF WHILE GOING 19KMS PER HOUR, BUT THEY KEPT THE REPORT AND REFUSED TO TURN IT OVER TO ME. THIS IS THE ONLY 'PROOF' OR SUPPORTING INFORMATION THAT I WOULD HAVE HAD.
AS I WAS DRIVING, ALL OF THE LIGHTS (OIL, BRAKE, ABS, CHECK ENGINE) ALL OF IT CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME AND MADE A NOISE AND THE CAR SHUT DOWN , WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I AM A COLLEGE STUDENT WITH A COMMUTE, AND THANK GOD I WAS NEAR A NEIGHBORHOOD TO PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY. I TRIED WAITING 10 MINUTE TO RESTART, AND IT WOULD NOT EVEN START BECAUSE THE WHOLE THING WAS DEAD AND THE LIGHTS WERE ON. THIS NEARLY KILLED ME.
MY EPS LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF SOMETIME I'M DRIVING AND WHEN IT DOES THAT MY RADIO GOES OUT AND WHEEL HARD TO STEER.
PREVIOUSLY SUBMITTED
TAKATA RECALL, MY CAR HAS BEEN SHOOTING ICE FROM THE VENTS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND SOMETIMES THE DRIVER SIDE. ALSO, WHEN THE GREEN ECO LIGHT COMES ON THE CAR STARTS SHAKING. I'VE HAVE SEVERAL DIAGNOSTIC TEST DONE ON THE CAR AND THERE ARE NO CODES APPEARING. THIS TYPICALLY HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION AND SOMETIMES WHEN I START THE CAR IF THE AC WAS ON BEFORE I BRIEFLY TURN IT OFF. AS FAR AS THE SHAKING IT ONLY DOES IT WHEN THE ECO LIGHT COMES ON AND THEN THE LIGHT WILL FLICKER AND TURN OFF AND IMMEDIATELY THE CAR WILL STOP VIBRATING.
THE FRONT PASSENGER AND REAR DRIVER DOOR LOCKS/UNLOCKS INTERMITTENTLY. SOMETIMES, I HAVE TO LOCK/UNLOCK MANUALLY, OTHER TIMES IT WORKS WITH THE KEY FOB. THERE IS NO RHYME, REASON OR PATTERN TO WHEN IT DOES OR DOESN'T WORK. THE DOORS NORMALLY LOCK WHEN I SHIFT OUT OF PARK, IT NOW DOES IT INTERMITTENTLY AS WELL. I HAVE CHECKED THE FUSE, SWITCH, AND WIRING. THEY ARE ALL IN GOOD WORKING ORDER. WHEN I PUSH THE LOCK BUTTON, BOTH DOORS CLICK, BUT DO NOT ALWAYS LOCK/UNLOCK.
TAKATA RECALL THE DRIVER DOOR IS NOT LOCKING OR UNLOCKING WHEN BUTTON IS PUSHED ON THE REMOTE OR ANY BUTTONS IN THE CAR AT ANY TIME. THE ONLY WAY TO LOCK OR UNLOCK IS TO USE THE KEY IN THE DOOR OR TO MANUALLY LOCK AND UNLOCK ACTUAL LOCK. IT'S NOT SAFE AS THE CAR SOUNDS AS IF IT'S LOCKING BUT THE DRIVERS DOOR IS NOT AND GIVES THE OPPORTUNITY FOR SOMEONE TO GET IN MY CAR THAT IS NOT TO BE IN MY CAR. HAS BEEN ON AND OFF SINCE ABOUT JANUARY 2019 BUT STOPPED WORKING 6/3/2019.
WHEN LOCKING MY VEHICLE WITH THE KEY FOB ALL DOORS LOCK EXCEPT PASSENGER SIDE SO I HAVE TO LOCK IT MANUALLY. WHEN UNLOCKING THE VEHICLE WITH THE KEY FOB THE PASSENGER SIDE WILL NOT UNLOCK. I HAVE TO CLIMB IN THROUGH THE DRIVERS SIDE OR THE REAR SEAT TO UNLOCK THE PASSENGER DOOR. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN INCASE I NEED TO ACCESS THIS DOOR IN A HURRY. THIS ALSO APPLIES WHEN USING THE LOCKS MANUALLY. THIS VEHICLE ONLY HAS 107,000 MILE ON IT.
NO SOUND IN RADIO/CD/BLUETOOTH/PHONE BUT THE INFOTAINMENT SCREEN WORKS OK
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 TOYOTA CAMRY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOORS FAILED TO LOCK AND UNLOCK FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE. IN ADDITION, THE INTERIOR LIGHTING FAILED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED AND THE FAILURES WERE INTERMITTENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 111,000.
TAKATA RECALL - PURCHASED CAR IN 2015. TOOK TO TOYOTA DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE PERFORM DOT RECALL COMPLETED. AND CHECK TO SEE WHY CAR DOES NOT HAVE AC OR THE OUTSIDE TEMP DISPLAY DOES NOT REGISTER. ONE DAY SUMMER OF 2017 CAR TURNED ON BUT THE CLIMATE CONTROL WOULD NOT ILLUMINATE. AND COULD NOT ADJUST THE TEMP OF FAN SPEED. TURNED CAR OFF, THEN BACK ON 2 TIMES. THEN THE CLIMATE CONTROL ILLUMINATED, BUT I NO LONGER HAD AC. AND CANNOT CHANGE THE FAN SPEED. CAR WAS PARKED IN RESIDENCE PARKING LOT WHEN ISSUE OCCURRED. QUOTED $10,487 PLUS TAX TO BEGIN REPAIRS. NEED 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES AND A/AC AMPLIFIER TO BEGIN REPAIRS. NEEDING PARTS # 82115 -06F30, 82121-06C80, & 88650 - 06501. TOTAL COST TO BEGIN REPAIRS $ 10.487 PLUS TAX. THIS IS NOT A GUARANTEED FIX BUT IS A MUST STARTING POINT. DUE TO BOTH HARNESSES HAVING TOO MUST RESISTANCE FOUND 15 CODES STORED IN 8 DIFFERENT SYSTEMS. 6 CODES CURRENT AND 9 ARE HISTORY. MANY CAN BE RELATED BUT FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC IS REQUIRED. FOUND SHORT TO GROUND ON ONE CIRCUIT BUT NEED FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TO DETERMINE EXACT LOCATION. AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR SHORT TO GROUND I77 PIN 13
POWER CAR LOCKS WON'T OPEN OR CLOSE WHEN USING THE SWITCHES OR THE REMOTE KEY. CAR ALARM WON'T ACTIVATE BECAUSE THE DOORS WON'T LOCK. ALSO, THE DRIVER SWITCH DOES NOT UNLOCK THE REAR DOOR ANYMORE. THIS COULD BE A REAL DANGER IF YOU HAVE A SMALL CHILD IN THE REAR SEAT AND NEED TO GET THEM OUT IN A HURRY.
DRIVING CAR AND I WAS STOPPED AT INTERSECTION ON A FOGGY MORNING ABOUT 6:15 AM. WENT TO TURN RIGHT AT INTERSECTION AND SAW WHAT I THOUGHT WAS A DENSE AMOUNT OF FOG FLOW ACROSS THE FRONT OF MY CAR. AS I DROVE DOWN THE ROAD, I SMELLED SOMETHING BURNING, SAW SOME SMOKE FROM UNDER THE FRONT HOOD. AN ALARM WENT OF AND MY DASH DISPLAYED THE WARNING HYBRID SYSTEM MALFUNCTION. THEN FIRE STARTED COMING OUT FROM UNDER THE HOOD AND UP ALONG THE FRONT WINDSHIELD. I WAS JUST PASSING A GAS STATION AT THE TIME SO I CONTINUE TO DRIVE DOWN PASS THE GAS STATION AND THEN PULLED THE CAR OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND EXISTED THE CAR. THE NEAREST FIRE COMPANY WAS OUT ON A CALL, SO THE CAR CONTINUED TO BURN FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES. AS A RESULT THE ENTIRE FRONT HALF OF THE CAR WAS COMPLETING BURNT. HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR PRIOR TO THIS FIRE. IN FACT, I DROVE IT 176 MILES THE NIGHT BEFORE THE FIRE. LEARNED AFTER I EXISTED THE CAR WHILE IT WAS ON FIRE, THAT A DRIVER COMING UP THE ROAD BEHIND ME AFTER I TURNED AT THE INTERSECTION, NOTICED SPARKS AND/OR FLAMES SHOOTING OUT FROM UNDER MY CAR. SHE WAS FLASHING HER HEADLIGHTS AT ME, BUT I DID NOT NOTICE HER.
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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