2023 Toyota GR86 Problems

it was an afternoon, I’m from [XXX] going to tempe my friends house which is estimated 34 miles. I took the loop XXX driving mid way there all of sudden my car made loud werid rattling noise coming from the engine area. when accelerating it made rattling sound and when i let go of the gas it also made loud noises also. FYI, no warning lights came on, no check engine, no errors came up. so then i arrived at stop light, while in neutral my car rpm was going up and down i would say on limp mode. still no warning lights on dash. so then i arrive at my friends house. 2 hours later I went to start my car, and even more loud weird noises never heard before sounds came up. put it in 1st gear drove about 200 yards, car completely shuts off and now all the warnings lights appear. Called tow truck and tow to toyota. My gr86 is all up to date with maintenance all from official toyota dealership. Got my oil change in start of May since then 6k miles. My car as total of 54k miles. I do have video of the noises it was making on the highway. Mainly hoping toyota will cover this since my car is still under powertrain/drivetrain warranty which is 60,000miles/5 years INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Had my engine spin a bearing in 2023 and was told to report what had happened. The car was used in track days prior to this but while driving down the highway afterwards it lost oil pressure and spun a nearing. Had it towed Twin City Toyota, a dealer and had them give me the run around with it. Saying it had hit the limiter 60 miles before the issue accrued and that it “over revved 13 rpms” and that since it had hit the limiter and being a stick shut it voided my warranty. Told me I would have to pay 26K for a new motor and if not to get my car out of there. They also refused to give me any documentation for it and what they claimed was on the cars data stream. Toyota corporate also got involved and said they changed the warranty terms after I bought the car and wouldn’t warranty it because of what the dealer was claiming.

Fuel lines on right hand side of engine bay (when viewed from front of vehicle) show signs of wear due to contact with other components. I am unsure what components exactly, but wear significant enough to cause material removal from EPDM fuel line outer sleeve.

Fuel lines in the engine bay are rubbing against the hood insulation and wearing down. The first generation GR86 fuel lines had sleeves compared to the second generation..

it was an afternoon, I’m from [XXX] going to tempe my friends house which is estimated 34 miles. I took the loop XXX driving mid way there all of sudden my car made loud werid rattling noise coming from the engine area. when accelerating it made rattling sound and when i let go of the gas it also made loud noises also. FYI, no warning lights came on, no check engine, no errors came up. so then i arrived at stop light, while in neutral my car rpm was going up and down i would say on limp mode. still no warning lights on dash. so then i arrive at my friends house. 2 hours later I went to start my car, and even more loud weird noises never heard before sounds came up. put it in 1st gear drove about 200 yards, car completely shuts off and now all the warnings lights appear. Called tow truck and tow to toyota. My gr86 is all up to date with maintenance all from official toyota dealership. Got my oil change in start of May since then 6k miles. My car as total of 54k miles. I do have video of the noises it was making on the highway. Mainly hoping toyota will cover this since my car is still under powertrain/drivetrain warranty which is 60,000miles/5 years INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

While driving on the highway at approximately 80–90 mph, the vehicle experienced an unexpected RPM increase as I came off the accelerator, an engine-misfire warning, sudden loss of power, and engine shutdown. I immediately pulled over. Smoke came from the engine compartment, engine oil had been expelled throughout the engine bay, and oil was leaking underneath the vehicle. The vehicle became completely inoperable, creating a serious safety risk at highway speed. An independent Toyota Master Technician later documented catastrophic internal failure involving Cylinder No. 2. The piston and connecting-rod assembly were destroyed, the connecting rod contacted the engine block, a hole was present through the short block, extensive metal debris was found in the oil pan, piston material was crushed into the oil pan, an internal valvetrain component was also found there, and the engine was seized, limiting any teardown. The technician also observed material consistent with factory-applied FIPG/RTV sealant in the oil-pickup area and separate sealant-like material protruding into a head-gasket passage where it should not have been present. He stated that the location was consistent with excess sealant being applied during assembly and squeezed inward, supporting the possibility of a manufacturing-related defect. He stated that proper evaluation should have included measuring the amount of sealant and any obstruction, inspecting the oil pump, filter, bearings, oil-pan debris, and evaluating for restricted oil flow. Those measurements and results were not provided by the dealership or Toyota. Instead, I had to call law enforcement to receive a minimal repair order and my car at no cost from the dealership 8 months later. I am reporting this because excess factory sealant intruding into an oil-related or head-gasket passage could potentially restrict lubrication and create a serious safety concern if similar conditions exist in other vehicles, which have also been documented.

The car began throwing alerts about SRS system failure, RAB failure and eyesight (safety system) being disabled suddenly while driving. Dealership said dashcam plugged into the 12v port in the car overloaded the fuse. Issue remains that the dashcam remained functional before and after and fuse for 12v is independent of the electrical wiring for the safety features. Dealership dismissed as it as a non warranty/safety issue as a third party device was connected to the car. Claimed this is applicable for any devices connected into the car including a phone. 10amp fuse independent of the safety system (7.5amp fuse) was replaced to remedy the problem. Concern is any device connected to the vehicle may disable all safety system of the car including the airbags or possible manufacturer defects made during assembly of this vehicle.

One day I noticed something dangling near the rear license plate while parked. It was the right-side license plate light. Upon inspection of the (good) left-side license plate light, everything seemed pretty secure. The right-side license plate light has a plastic bracket on the one side and a plastic clip on the other side. The plastic clip broke off. I don't think it's been that way long, and I can't think of anything that could have caused it as a daily driver. I do drive it in the snow, and I only noticed it while wiping snow away with my snow brush. I don't think the brush ripped it off, but I also don't know if it was hanging out prior. Maybe the brush bristles got between the light assembly and the bumper, but it's such an unusual spot for anything to interface with the light assembly. There doesn't appear to be a vapor barrier between either of the license plate lights (for better or worse). The rectangular light assembly is somewhat obstructed from dangling further out thanks to the license plate bracket, although dangling wires could later induce other problems. There are no faults or indicators on the dashboard. The light is still operational. The plastic of the license plate light assembly doesn't appear to be the highest quality plastic though, kind of an odd design. The car is a lease and under warranty, but otherwise the OE hardware is about $35, plus labor.

The car began throwing alerts about SRS system failure, RAB failure and eyesight (safety system) being disabled suddenly while driving. Dealership said dashcam plugged into the 12v port in the car overloaded the fuse. Issue remains that the dashcam remained functional before and after and fuse for 12v is independent of the electrical wiring for the safety features. Dealership dismissed as it as a non warranty/safety issue as a third party device was connected to the car. Claimed this is applicable for any devices connected into the car including a phone. 10amp fuse independent of the safety system (7.5amp fuse) was replaced to remedy the problem. Concern is any device connected to the vehicle may disable all safety system of the car including the airbags or possible manufacturer defects made during assembly of this vehicle.

215 45 R 17 tire flew off the rim on a straight paved highway road going 45 mph. The sidewall separated all the way around and the tire was not torn anywhere else. The mileage was 29395.

The drivers side window imploded on me while driving on the highway. A rock did not hit it, it just cracked into a thousands pieces on me.

The car began throwing alerts about SRS system failure, RAB failure and eyesight (safety system) being disabled suddenly while driving. Dealership said dashcam plugged into the 12v port in the car overloaded the fuse. Issue remains that the dashcam remained functional before and after and fuse for 12v is independent of the electrical wiring for the safety features. Dealership dismissed as it as a non warranty/safety issue as a third party device was connected to the car. Claimed this is applicable for any devices connected into the car including a phone. 10amp fuse independent of the safety system (7.5amp fuse) was replaced to remedy the problem. Concern is any device connected to the vehicle may disable all safety system of the car including the airbags or possible manufacturer defects made during assembly of this vehicle.