Owner-reported complaints naming the electrical system, filed with NHTSA
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Reports naming the electrical system — wiring, battery, charging, control modules, infotainment and electrical accessories. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2014 Honda Odyssey submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 31 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
The 25 most recent of 31, in the owner's own words
My van has 2 automatic sliding doors, 1 on each side. The cables for both doors have now broken. So neither automatic door works anymore. This is clearly a common problem. And it's a safety issue for those of us with small children and pitched driveways, where the doors can now slide and trap our children. I can't believe a recall hasn't been issued for this
I’m experiencing several issues with my 2014 Honda Odyssey: -The radiator fan often stays on after the car is turned off. -I have to press the shut down button 3 times before the car completely shuts off, which is concerning. -After driving for only 20 minutes , the engine temperature spikes to the max which is limiting my ability to get places safely. -The sliding doors only work when the car is off and sometimes even then it won’t open after trying 3/5 times. These issues are ongoing never stops, The overheating and fan behavior feel unsafe so we just use the car for very short drives(5mins max). I’m worried about potential engine damage or failure while driving. The sliding doors also pose a safety concern, especially with kids.
The contact owns a 2014 Honda Odyssey. The contact stated while driving 30 MPH, the contact stopped at a traffic light, the light turned green, and several unknown warning lights illuminated. The vehicle turned off and the contact merged into a parking lot and attempted to restart the vehicle. The contact stated that the key fob battery was replaced. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to restart. The contact was informed to disconnect the battery to reset the computer. The Roadside Assistance arrived on the scene and connected jumper cables, and the vehicle restarted. After the vehicle restarted, the contact informed AAA that assistance was not required. The vehicle then stopped again and would not move. The contact then called AAA to tow the vehicle. The contact stated that the door failed to open. The contact pressed the button to unlock the vehicle and pressed to unlock on the key fob; however, the contact was trapped inside the vehicle. The contact’s father arrived at the vehicle and was unable to find an object to break the window. The contact was unable to break the window, but the contact then fired a pistol and broke the window. The dealer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 135,000. The VIN was not available.
>At about 95,000 miles the vehicle engine is making a loud rattling noise until it warms up to operating temperature. > At about 105,000 miles the vans battery starting dying frequently. The battery was replaced and 8 months later it died again. Replaced the battery again and one night the battery light came on along with several of the display warnings flashing and the car made it one mile home before dying and not turning on again. Had a mobile mechanic take a look and they think oil leaking has damaged the alternator. Problem has not been fixed and the vehicle is inoperable.
. We were driving on a freeway in rural Minnesota at around 70 mph when the tire pressure monitor lit up. There were no warning lights before that.We started to slow down and suddenly the dashboard lit up with multiple warning lights and the engine stuttered and quit. Fortunately we were going downhill and managed to coast onto an exit (without benefit of power steering or power brakes) and coasted onto the ramp shoulder. After we stopped, the battery seemed to have power; the starter motor would begin to operate but it would stop in less than a second, the car would not restart and the dashboard showed warnings about the ESC and ABS in addition to other warnings. When a tow truck finally arrived, we described the symptoms and the tow truck driver instantly said "It's the alternator". He connected a measuring device to the battery, the car started and ran briefly and he confirmed that the problem was a defective alternator. The dealer replaced the alternator fixing the problem. No other repair was needed. Clearly the alternator failure glitched the computer and caused the car to shut down. The fact that the tow truck driver instantly identified the problem from our verbal description is evidence that this is a rather common problem--even if it is not frequently reported. The catastrophic alternator failure in our Honda Odyssey could have caused a very serious accident. We were very lucky that we were able to coast to a safe place. Every car should be fail-safe in case of an alternator failure! I have experienced two other on-the-road alternator failures in the past. In both cases I received a red warning light and the car continued to operate on existing battery charge until I reached a safe place.
The contact owns a 2014 Honda Odyssey. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the instrument panel warning lights started flashing and the vehicle started to lose motive power before coasting to a stop. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer who diagnosed that oil from the rocker arm had leaked onto the alternator causing the alternator to fail. The contact was informed that the alternator and rocker arm needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact was informed that a TSB (20-023) was issued for the failure but the VIN was not included. The failure mileage was 113,000.
I WAS DRIVING 70MPH ON AN INTERSTATE. THE BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON. THERE WAS NO IMMEDIATE CHANGE IN VEHICLE PERFORMANCE AND THERE WERE NO ODORS PRESENT SO I CONTINUED DRIVING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES TOWARDS THE NEXT EXIT. ABOUT .5MI AWAY FROM THE EXIT, THE ABS, FCW, LDW, AND BRAKE LIGHTS CAME ON, THE AIR CONDITIONER AND CONSOLE TURNED OFF, AND THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DISENGAGED. THIS PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM BEING ABLE TO ACCELERATE. THE ENTIRE VEHICLE ESSENTIALLY LOST POWER. THE LOCAL DEALER DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE AS AN OIL LEAK IN THE SPOOL VALVE THAT THEN DESTROYED THE ALTERNATOR AND FRIED THE BATTERY. THE MANUFACTURER (HONDA) RECENTY ISSUED TSB 20-023 DETAILING THE PROBLEM AND REPAIR PROCEDURE, BUT IT WAS LIMITED TO THE SOURCE OF THE LEAK, NOT ANY OF THE OTHER COMPONENTS THAT WERE DAMAGED. MY UNDERSTANDING OF THE INCIDENT LEADS ME TO BELIEVE A FIRE COULD HAVE BROKEN OUT DUE TO THE LOCATION OF THE LEAK ONTO THE OTHER ENGINE COMPONENTS.
2014 HONDA ODYSSEY, PURCHASED BRAND NEW IN 2014 AND ALWAYS GARAGE KEPT, RANDOMLY OPENS ALL OF THE WINDOWS AND SUNROOM. I KNOW IF THE REMOTE UNLOCK BUTTON IS HELD DOWN, ALL OF THE WINDOWS AND SUNROOM WILL OPEN, BUT THIS IS NOT THE CASE. IT HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES WITH NO ONE TOUCHING THE BUTTON. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 30 TIMES NOW, I GO OUT TO MY VAN AND EVERYTHING IS OPENED UP. IT HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST FOUR TIMES NOW WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS OUTSIDE IN THE RAIN CAUSING WATER TO ENTER THE VEHICLE. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE. *TR
(1) PAINT PEELING (2) BRAKES INFERIOR AND DON'T STOP CORRECTLY (3) DRIVER BACK DOOR AND HATCH OPEN RANDOMLY WITHOUT ANYONE OPENING THEM (4) LARGE CLUNKING NOISE AND JERKING WHEN FIRST STARTING TO TAKE OFF (5) REAR CAMERA MAY TAKE UP TO 5 MINUTES TO ENGAGE (6) ERROR MESSAGE POPS UP ON SCREEN SAYING "CANNOT IMPORT CALL HISTORY" (7) BACK PASSENGER CUP HOLDER FELL OUT
THE FUSES KEEP HAVING TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE WHEN IT TRANSITIONS FROM ECO TO REGULAR THE CAR STUTTERS AND THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND STARTS BLINKING. I THEN HAVE TO TURN OFF THE CAR AND RESTART IT. THE CAR ONLY GOES UP TO LIKE 20MPH THE SLOWLY INCREASES THEN DECREASES AGAIN THE LIGHT COMES BACK ON. THIS BEGAN HAPPENING ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO BUT MAYBE A LITTLE BIT BEFOREHAND...NOT EXACTLY SURE OF THE EXACT DATE. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS DRIVING TO WORK.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 HONDA ODYSSEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BLUETOOTH FAILED TO OPERATE PROPERLY IN THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HIS IPHONE 6 MOBILE PHONE WOULD NO LONGER STAY CONNECTED WITH THE BLUETOOTH SYSTEM IN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (MILLENNIUM HONDA, 286 N FRANKLIN ST, HEMPSTEAD, NY 11550) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE IPHONE 6 WAS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE HONDA BLUETOOTH SYSTEM. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,000.
MY AUTO DOORS OFTEN MALFUNCTION WHERE THER DON'T RESPOND TO UNLOCKING OR OPENING. I HAVE TO PHYSICALLY FORCE THE LOCK UP WHILE PULLING THE HANDLE TO OPEN IT WHEN IT HAS.I HAVE SEARCHED THIS ISSUE AND THERE IS NO RECALL BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OF COMPLAINTS. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION TO BE IN IF MY VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A WRECK AND WE CAN'T GET THE DOORS OPEN. I HAVE VIDEO OF THIS.
I OWN A 2014 HONDA ODYSEY, AND THE DRIVER DOOR SOMETIMES COME OPEN BY ITSELF WHEN I AM DRIVING. OTHER TIMES I CANNOT GET IN TO THE VEHICLE, BECAUSE I CANNOT UNLOCK THE DOORS TO GET INTO THE VEHICLE, NOT EVEN USING THE REGULAR KEY. WHEN I PARKED MY VEHICLE, AND IF BY ANY CHANCE I AM ABLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE DOORS, THEN A FEW MINUTES LATER THE DRIVER DOOR COME OPEN (NOT UNLOCK) BY ITSELF. I CANNOT LEAVE ANYTHING INSIDE THE VEHICLE, BECAUSE ANYONE CAN JUST GET IN. YESTERDAY, 20 MARCH 2017, AFTER I PARKED MY VEHICLE I WAS TRYING TO GET OUT AND I COULD NOT, BECAUSE I COULD NOT UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR. A VERY SCARY FEELING. I HAD TO JUMP TO THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE AND GOT OUT OPENING THE BACK DOOR. THE REMOTE/SWITCH SOMETIMES WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK ALL THE DOORS, AND THE HATCH, BUT WILL NOT THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR. THE OTHER DOORS AFTER I START THE CAR AND START DRIVING WOULD NOT LOCK AUTOMATIC LIKE IT SHOULD.
I OWN A 2014 HONDA ODYSSEY, AND HE DRIVER DOOR SOMETIMES COME OPEN BY ITSELF WHEN I AM DRIVING. OTHER TIMES I CANNOT GET IN TO THE VEHICLE, BECAUSE I CANNOT UNLOCK THE DOORS TO GET INTO THE VEHICLE, NOT EVEN USING THE REGULAR KEY. WHEN I PARK MY VEHICLE, AND IF BY ANY CHANCE I AM ABLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE DOORS, THEN A FEW MINUTES LATER THE DRIVER'S DOOR COME OPEN (NOT UNLOCK) BY ITSELF. I CANNOT LEAVE ANYTHING INSIDE THE VEHICLE, BECAUSE ANYONE CAN JUST GET IN. YESTERDAY, 20 MARCH 2017, AFTER I PARK MY VEHICLE I WAS TRYING TO GET OUT AND I COULD NOT, BECAUSE I COULD NOT UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S DOOR. A VERY SCARY FEELING. I HAD TO JUMP TO THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE AND GOT OUT OPENING THE BACK DOOR. THE REMOTE/SWITCH SOMETIMES WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK ALL THE DOORS, AND THE HATCH, BUT WILL NOT THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR. THE OTHER DOORS AFTER I START THE CAR AND START DRIVING WOULD NOT LOCK AUTOMATIC LIKE IT SHOULD.
I STOPPED THE VEHICLE ON AN INCLINED STREET TO TALK WITH A NEIGHBOR. HE ASKED ME TO LOOK AT SOMETHING SO, I TURNED THE IGNITION OFF NOT THINKING THE GEARSHIFT WAS STILL IN THE DRIVE POSITION. AFTER THE ENGINE STOPPED I STARTED TO EXIT THE CAR WHEN IT BEGAN TO ROLL. I APPLIED THE BRAKES THEN RESTARTED THE CAR AND SHIFTED INTO PARK. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE REQUIRING A RECALL BEFORE SOMEBODY GETS INJURED OR KILLED.
MY DOOR CAME AJAR WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD!!! WHEN THE DASH TEMPERATURE READS ABOVE 96 DEGREES, THE ELECTRONICS OF THE REAR-SLIDING DOORS WILL NOT OPERATE. THIS HAS OCCURRED SINCE THE VAN WAS 3.5 MONTH OLD. THE LOCAL SERVICE DEPT CANNOT RECREATE THE ISSUE, AND NO ERROR CODE DISPLAYS ON THE DASH. MY BABY HAS BEEN TRAPPED IN THE BACKSEAT, BECAUSE I CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR. DURING THE HOT TEMPS, THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN MANUALLY. THE DOORS ARE COMPLETELY STUCK! ONCE I DRIVE AROUND AND THE VAN COOLS, THE ELECTRONICS/SLIDING DOORS OPERATE JUST FINE. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN. THIS OCCURS WHEN THE VAN IS PARKED, BECAUSE BEING STATIONARY IN THE SUN ALLOWS IT TO GET HOTTER. EVEN WITH IT'S ONLY 93 OUTSIDE, THE DASH MAY READ 101 AFTER SITTING IN THE PARKING LOT FOR A FEW HOURS. LAST WEEK, I TRIED TO OPEN IT AROUND 3PM. IT WOULD NOT BUDGE. THE DASH SHOWED ALL DOORS CLOSED WHEN I PULLED OUT OF THE PARKING LOT. FIVE MINUTES LATER, AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE, AT 65 MPH, THE DOOR CAME AJAR! I HAD TO PULL OVER AND CLOSE IT. I HAVE READ MANY BLOGS WITH OTHER ODYSSEY OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I HAVE A RECENT VIDEO OF THE ISSUE, BUT THIS SITE DOES NOT ALLOW THAT FORMATTING.
WHILE MY SON WAS REACHING FOR SEATBELT HIS ARM/WRIST GOT STUCK IN DOOR AS IT WAS CLOSING. DOOR WOULD NOT MOVE AND JUST SANDWICHED HIS WRIST. WHETHER CAR WAS IN DRIVE OR PARK DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN OR CLOSE. FINALLY WE GOT HIS WRIST OUT AND DOOR CLOSED.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 HONDA ODYSSEY. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED TO APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WITH NO RESULTS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE VEHICLE NEEDED A SENSOR REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 HONDA ODYSSEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHED CONSTANTLY. IN ADDITION, THE RPMS DECREASED, THERE WAS A LOUD NOISE COMING FROM THE VEHICLE, AND THERE WAS A DRASTIC REDUCTION OF SPEED. THE VEHICLE WAS ALSO SHAKING AND VIBRATING, WHICH CAUSED THE CONTACT TO BE UNABLE TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER ON TWO OCCASIONS WHERE THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 7,774. MA 10/5 *CN
AT DIFFERENT TIMES SINCE THE PURCHASE OF THE VEHICLE IN AUGUST 2013 THE AUDIO SYSTEM IS COMPLETELY LOST. AFTER 1 1/2 YEARS OF DISCUSSING THIS WITH THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT OF THE LOCAL HONDA DEALERSHIP I WAS FINALLY INFORMED THAT HONDA HAS AN ISSUE WITH THE AUDIO SYSTEM AND PARING TO THE IPHONES. I SINCE HAVE DELETED MY PHONE FROM THE SYSTEM AND NO LONGER LEAVE THE BLUE TOOTH ON BUT STILL LOSE THE ENTIRE AUDIO SYSTEM FROM TIME TO TIME. THE CAR MUST BE TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED. ALSO AT TIMES THE FRONT COLLISION WARNING WILL GO OFF WHEN YOU HAVE NO ONE AROUND YOU. I BELIEVE IT IS ALL TIED TOGETHER. ALTHOUGH THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE I FEEL I HAVE NO WHERE ELSE TO TURN. AFTER CONTACT AMERICAN HONDA AND BEING ASSIGNED A CASE MANAGER ALL SHE COULD TELL ME WAS TO GET A DIFFERENT CELL PHONE. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THEY ARE WAITING FOR UPDATES BUT FIND IT IMPOSSIBLE THAT IT TAKES THIS LONG TO HAVE AN UPDATE BUILT. I KNOW I AM NOT THE ONLY CUSTOMER WITH THIS ISSUE AND FIND IT VERY FRUSTRATING THAT I HAVE BEEN FOR THE EXTRAS THAT I CAN'T EVEN USE. UPDATED 9/21/15 *LN.....UPDATED 10/01/15*BF *CN
BOUGHT VEHICLE IN MARCH 2014. WE HAVE HAD NUMEROUS PROBLEMS WITH OUR POWER SLIDING DOORS. AT TIMES THEY WON'T OPEN ALL THE WAY, SOMETIMES WONT CLOSE ALL THE WAY. SOMETIMES THEY WON'T RESPOND AT ALL WHETHER YOU TRY TO OPEN OR CLOSE THEM. SOMETIMES THEY DO NOT UNLOCK AND IT TAKES MULTIPLE TIMES OF TRYING BEFORE THEY FINALLY WILL. I HAVE PICTURES PROVING THESE MALFUNCTIONS. THE DEALER SAYS THEY CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. I ALSO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE BACK HATCH MALFUNCTIONING. IT HOPS/JERKS AND MAKES GRINDING NOISES. SOMETIMES IT HOPS/JERKS SO MUCH THAT IT ACTUALLY SHAKES THE WHOLE VEHICLE. ALSO SOMETIMES THE POWER BUTTON DOES NOT ALWAYS WORK WHEN TRYING TO OPEN IT. MECHANIC WAS ABLE TO DUPLICATE PROBLEM, BUT THE SERVICE DIRECTOR INSISTS THAT IT IS NORMAL. INITIALLY THEY DID NOT WANT TO FIX IT,, BUT AFTER BEING PERSISTENT WITH THEM ABOUT THIS ISSUE, THEY REPLACED THE RUBBER GASKET AROUND THE DOOR TO SEE IF THAT WOULD FIX THE PROBLEM. TO DATE IT HAS NOT FIXED THE PROBLEM, IT HAS ACTUALLY GOTTEN WORSE. I ALSO HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVERSIDE SLIDING DOOR MAKING A LOUD SCREECHING SOUND WHEN I UNLOCKED IT FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE MECHANIC TOOK THE DOOR APART AND GREASED IT AND SO FAR THIS HAS HELPED. I ALSO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE DOORS NOT RESPONDING TO THE KEY FOB. SOMETIMES IT TAKES MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS TO GET IT TO RESPOND PROPERLY. THERE ALSO SEEMS TO BE ALOT OF WIND NOISE AND YOU CAN FEEL THE DRAFTS. THE DRIVER WINDOW ALSO VIBRATES WHILE GOING UP/DOWN. I DON'T KNOW IF MY VEHICLE IS A LEMON OR NOT, BUT IT SURE DOES HAVE A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION, ELECTRICAL, THE DOORS. ETC. I HAVE FILED SEVERAL COMPLAINTS THAT DESCRIBES THEM ALL. I ORIGINALLY HAD A 2010 ODYSSEY AND IT HAD LESS PROBLEMS THAN THIS ONE. *TR
BOUGHT MY VAN IN MARCH OF 2014, EARLY ON IT STARTED HAVING VARIOUS ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. THE AC/HEAT BLOWER RANDOMLY INCREASES IN POWER (IF IT WAS ON LOW, IT WOULD ALL OF A SUDDEN START BLOWING FULL FORCE AND EVEN THE BARS ON THE SCREEN INCREASES).THE BLINKER RANDOMLY REFUSES TO TURN OFF EVEN AFTER MANUALLY TURNING IT OFF. THE COLLISION DETECTION SYSTEM MALFUNCTIONS AT TIMES. IT RANDOMLY BEEPS WITH NO VEHICLE IN SIGHT AND AT OTHER TIMES, WHEN IT SHOULD BEEP, IT DOESN'T. THE NAVIGATION/RADIO SCREENS COMPLETELY BLACK OUT, ONLY SHOWING YELLOW LINES THAT YOU NORMALLY SEE WHEN BACKING UP. DURING THIS TIME, THE COLLISION DETECTION SYSTEM, BACKUP CAMERA, RADIO AND HEATING CONTROLS ALL DO NOT WORK.THE SCREENS STAY BLACKED OUT EVEN DURING DRIVING/BACKING UP, THEN ONCE THE VEHICLE IS OFF AND RESTARTED,THINGS GO BACK TO NORMAL. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS RANDOMLY, AND VARY IN HOW LONG IT MALFUNCTIONS FOR. I WAS ABLE TO TAKE SOME PICTURES AND CAPTURED VIDEO TO SHOW IT MALFUNCTIONING. HONDA DEALER INITIALLY THOUGHT THAT IT WAS USER ERROR. THEY THOUGHT THAT I HAD ACCIDENTALLY TURNED ON THE LANE WATCH CAMERA, BUT ONCE I SHOWED THEM THE VIDEO, THE MECHANIC STATED TO ME THAT HONDA WAS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM FROM IT HAPPENING TO OTHER VEHICLES. THEY WERE SUPPOSED TO REPLACE THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM. HOWEVER, I QUESTION WHETHER THEY ACTUALLY REPLACED THE PART. ALL OF OUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS WERE STILL PROGRAMMED INCLUDING VOICE DIALING. FURTHER RESEARCH LED US TO FIND OUT THAT THE SYSTEM HAD THE VIN # STORED IN ITS INTERNAL MEMORY, WHICH PROVES THAT ITS THE ORIGINAL PART FROM WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS MANUFACTURED. I ALSO FIND OUT THAT THEY WERE PREVIOUSLY SUED BY THE STATE OF NJ FOR CONSUMER FRAUD. I HAVE HAD TO AUDIO RECORD CONVERSATIONS AND TAKE PICTURES AS PROOF OF THE PROBLEMS MY VEHICLE HAS BECAUSE ALL THEY WANT TO SAY IS NO CODE, NO PROBLEM, WE CAN'T DUPLICATE OR ITS NORMAL. *TR
I WENT TO DINNER WITH MY HUSBAND ON A FRIDAY NIGHT, AND WHEN WE RETURNED TO OUR VAN, THE DOORS UNLOCKED WE GOT INTO THE VAN AND THE KEYLESS START WOULD NOT WORK. WE TRIED FOR 3-5 MINUTES, NO LUCK, THIS HAPPENED A FEW MONTHS AGO, WE AGAIN DID EVERYTHING TO ENSURE IT WAS NOT USER ERROR (IN WHICH THE DEALERSHIP BLAMED WHEN THEY SAID NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE VAN THE PREVIOUS TIME). BRAKE WAS PRESSED, KEY WAS OUT, GEAR IN PARK.... I HAD TO GET IN AND OUT OF THE VAN A FEW TIMES BEFORE THE KEYLESS START FINALLY ALLOWED US TO START THE VAN... I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP REPAIR SHOP AGAIN, AND WAS INSISTENT THEY FIX THE KEYLESS START, BUT THEY WERE SOOO RUDE AND INAPPROPRIATE, THERE WAS NO "ERROR CODE" AND THEREFORE "HONDA WOULD NOT ALLOW THEM JUST TO REPLACE PARTS", AND THE HONDA CUSTOMER SERVICE WAS JUST AS RUDE!!!! I AM NO LONGER A FAN OF HONDA... THIS IS MY FIRST AND LAST HONDA! *TR
BOUGHT VAN AND ONLY HAD IT A FEW MONTHS BEFORE THE KEYLESS START, WOULD NOT START. ATTEMPTED FOR A WHOLE MINUTE, THEN FINALLY THE KEYLESS START WORKED. I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT, BASICALLY THEY TOLD ME PERHAPS IT WAS USER ERROR, BUT I AM NOT AN IDIOT, I MADE SURE THE BRAKE WAS PRESSED, THE GEAR WAS IN PARK CORRECTLY, AND THE KEY WAS OUT AND CLOSE ENOUGH FOR THE CAR TO RECOGNIZE THE KEY WAS IN THE CAR, HOWEVER, THE CAR DOORS UNLOCKED FINE WITH THE KEY. THEN A FEW WEEKS LATER, WHILE DRIVING THERE WAS A "NO KEY" LIGHT ON, HOWEVER THE KEY WAS IN THE CAR, AND THEN A FEW WEEKS AFTER THAT THE DASH BOARD AND RADIO SCREENS WERE BLACK FOR APPROX. 2 HRS, I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP REPAIR SHOP AGAIN ONLY TO BE TOLD THERE WASN'T ANYTHING THEY COULD FIND WRONG WITH MY VAN... UNFORTUNATELY I BOUGHT THE VAN USED WITH ONLY 3000MILES, AND I THINK NOW I KNOW WHY THE ORIGINAL OWNER TRADED IT IN WITH SUCH LOW MILEAGE.... IT IS A LEMON! *TR
CAR SUSTAINED $8700.00 WORTH OF DAMAGE TO NOSE OF CAR. AIRBAG FAILED TO DEPLOY. WIFE SUSTAINED FRACTURED RIB. *TR
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
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