2016 Hyundai Elantra Problems

Engine burned oil and had knocking sound, despite having regular oil changes. Stalked out while driving took to dealer initial said it was covered by the exerted coverage but ultimately denied. It had 111,000 miles on it. I believe this engine has the same issues as the others.

The oil light & check engine started flashing. Took it to the auto shop. The mechanic stated that the oil level is very low and the engine has a bad lower-end knock. Removed the oil filter and found metal debris in the oil. No oil leaks were found under the vehicle at all. Oil is being burned out through the exhaust. The vehicle needs an the ngine replacement.

P0420 P0441 P0014 P1326 C1260 C1688 C2130 These are the codes that's affecting my car

Transmission P0731 code. Vehicle will not shift into 1st gear when idle but will stay in 3 or 4 gear. Speedometer would indicate high speed when pressing on accelerator. At traffic light when light turn green car rev but would not shift into gear. Has only 130K miles. Car was towed to dealer and required a new transmission.

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the air bag warning light remained illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local mechanic, who informed the contact of a Manufacturer's Extended Warranty Coverage for the failure and referred the contact to the local dealer for assistance. The cause of the failure was not yet determined. The contact was informed that the vehicle was not covered under the extended warranty. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 53,600.

On [XXX] I was struck by a OVI driver at 50mph the side airbags deployed however the front airbag never deployed. The vehicle was totaled out my insurance company. The vehicle had no record or open recalls for the airbag and had been given a multiple point inspection in November 2024 with no issues noted. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

P0420 P0441 P0014 P1326 C1260 C1688 C2130 These are the codes that's affecting my car

No accident has occurred as of yet (for my case). Ongoing issues with Hyundai left brake bulb and center brake bulb burning out due to over-amperage. These two are on their own 10A circuit separate from the 5A circuit for the right brakelight bulb. It appears that these two bulbs are possibly receiving 15A and therefore burning out prematurely (3 months or less). I recently replaced these two bulbs at the same time, and now my battery is shorted. To keep my battery charged, I need to pull my 15A Brake Lamp fuse while the car is parked. This has now caused my ABS light to come on, as that system relies on the signal from the 15A brake lamp circuit. I suspect that some 15A components (10A+5A) received 20A (15A+5A) and welded shut. I am still looking for it to trace it down, resources are limited and I'm intent on just buying the $35 diagnostics book. Hyundai dealership did not inform me that this fuse was pulled while I drove home from the shop yesterday, creating an unsafe condition. They quoted me $500 to replace a brake lamp relay and the ABS (I'm assuming the whole ABS, but maybe just the control module), I declined. My plan for now, as this car isn't driven much, is to trace it down and find the shorted component. From my research, this is clearly affecting many years of Hyundais and Kias, not just my Elantra and not just my year. In fact, it's SO common that there are facebook groups (such as this one [XXX] ) dedicated to helping owners remedy this defect. I think a recall service, and a full investigation of what is electrically wrong with these cars, and what the actual remedy should be, is necessary based on the amount of cars that could be impacted. Hyundai & Kia technicians I am SURE are intimately knowledgeable about this issue by now and us owners are on the hook, having only 80,000 miles of warranty on anything purchased used. Please reach out with any add'l questions. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The vehicle's security system malfunctioned immediately after service at Parks Hyundai of Gainesville on 05/27/26 for Recall 256 & Campaign P33. The alarm blares & emergency lights flash while I am driving on public roads. This defect first presented in the dealership parking lot upon pickup. This creates a severe safety risk: the high-decibel alarm is a major distraction, the flashing lights confuse other motorists, & the malfunction prevents me from using turn signals, violating safety protocols. I demonstrated this to the service manager on 06/10/26. While the technician acknowledged the defect during a road test & performed a 'cap reset' (documented on the repair order), this attempt failed to resolve the issue. Despite this, the service manager refuses to acknowledge the defect, claiming it is an 'intended feature' of a 2023 recall at a different facility (993). This contradicts the technician's findings & my years of incident-free driving until the work on 05/27/26. The dealership initially omitted my return visit from their records, only acknowledging it after I confronted them in writing. An independent shop confirmed this electrical failure likely stems from P33, but requires proprietary dealer tools to diagnose. Attached video proves the vehicle runs while the alarm blares, confirming no relation to old Campaign 993 logic. Attached Repair Order proves the technician acknowledged the defect & attempted a repair. Despite this, the service manager ignores the documentation, his own technician's findings, & my demonstrations, blaming my locking habits while refusing a deep diagnostic. After 16 days in their possession, neither the dealer nor manufacturer has provided a remedy. If this malfunction were an intended feature, it would be an ongoing hazard; it creates a distraction, causes a panic response, & prevents the adequate use of turn signals while in operation. The vehicle is unsafe, & the dealership & manufacturer have failed to provide a valid repair.

No accident has occurred as of yet (for my case). Ongoing issues with Hyundai left brake bulb and center brake bulb burning out due to over-amperage. These two are on their own 10A circuit separate from the 5A circuit for the right brakelight bulb. It appears that these two bulbs are possibly receiving 15A and therefore burning out prematurely (3 months or less). I recently replaced these two bulbs at the same time, and now my battery is shorted. To keep my battery charged, I need to pull my 15A Brake Lamp fuse while the car is parked. This has now caused my ABS light to come on, as that system relies on the signal from the 15A brake lamp circuit. I suspect that some 15A components (10A+5A) received 20A (15A+5A) and welded shut. I am still looking for it to trace it down, resources are limited and I'm intent on just buying the $35 diagnostics book. Hyundai dealership did not inform me that this fuse was pulled while I drove home from the shop yesterday, creating an unsafe condition. They quoted me $500 to replace a brake lamp relay and the ABS (I'm assuming the whole ABS, but maybe just the control module), I declined. My plan for now, as this car isn't driven much, is to trace it down and find the shorted component. From my research, this is clearly affecting many years of Hyundais and Kias, not just my Elantra and not just my year. In fact, it's SO common that there are facebook groups (such as this one [XXX] ) dedicated to helping owners remedy this defect. I think a recall service, and a full investigation of what is electrically wrong with these cars, and what the actual remedy should be, is necessary based on the amount of cars that could be impacted. Hyundai & Kia technicians I am SURE are intimately knowledgeable about this issue by now and us owners are on the hook, having only 80,000 miles of warranty on anything purchased used. Please reach out with any add'l questions. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I was driving normally down the road and all of a sudden I lost control and couldn’t turn my vehicle apparently the control arm rusted from the subframe, causing me to swerve hit a curb and cause more damage to the front end. Thank God I was on a not so busy street! I could have killed myself or someone else all because this company’s metal rusted out.

I was driving down the interstate when my car completely locked up, my brakes stopped working, the steering wheel wouldn't turn, the car completely shut down, so I had to make my way off the bisy interstate luckily I didn't have an accident so I took it to a mechanic and found out the alternator went out, so it was replaced then less than a year later i had issues with the headlights not working then magically comong on while driving, and the interior lighta will work then bot work but the bulbs are new, leading to another replacement alternator, then less than about 8 months pass and I have issues with the electrical stuff again not wanting to work even when new bulbs are pit in the car, the radio turning on and off by itself and I've had to put it a third alternator in less than 3 years, it's a driving hazard and safety hazard. My driver side door handle will only open from the inside and it doesn't shut inkess the door is locked and the car has to be turned on. The belt in my 2016 hyundai elanyra looks like it's shredding and it's throwing black stuff on the inside of my hood. I've had preoffwsional mechanics look at it and the alternator is assembled correctly, and now my ball joints are all of a sudden needing to be replaced inthe front.

The vehicle's security system malfunctioned immediately after service at Parks Hyundai of Gainesville on 05/27/26 for Recall 256 & Campaign P33. The alarm blares & emergency lights flash while I am driving on public roads. This defect first presented in the dealership parking lot upon pickup. This creates a severe safety risk: the high-decibel alarm is a major distraction, the flashing lights confuse other motorists, & the malfunction prevents me from using turn signals, violating safety protocols. I demonstrated this to the service manager on 06/10/26. While the technician acknowledged the defect during a road test & performed a 'cap reset' (documented on the repair order), this attempt failed to resolve the issue. Despite this, the service manager refuses to acknowledge the defect, claiming it is an 'intended feature' of a 2023 recall at a different facility (993). This contradicts the technician's findings & my years of incident-free driving until the work on 05/27/26. The dealership initially omitted my return visit from their records, only acknowledging it after I confronted them in writing. An independent shop confirmed this electrical failure likely stems from P33, but requires proprietary dealer tools to diagnose. Attached video proves the vehicle runs while the alarm blares, confirming no relation to old Campaign 993 logic. Attached Repair Order proves the technician acknowledged the defect & attempted a repair. Despite this, the service manager ignores the documentation, his own technician's findings, & my demonstrations, blaming my locking habits while refusing a deep diagnostic. After 16 days in their possession, neither the dealer nor manufacturer has provided a remedy. If this malfunction were an intended feature, it would be an ongoing hazard; it creates a distraction, causes a panic response, & prevents the adequate use of turn signals while in operation. The vehicle is unsafe, & the dealership & manufacturer have failed to provide a valid repair.

Paint delamination has exposed bare metal on hood/roof/trunk. Corrosion is spreading, which can compromise crashworthiness and latch integrity. Additional peeling near the window trim near the roof is beginning to corrode. This part of the vehicle is structural and could compromise roof strength. This issue is a world wide(yes Canada too) has understood this issue and has consistently been on the news.

I received confirmation from my local Hyundai dealership that my 2016 Hyundai Elantra GT is consuming over 1.8 quarts of oil every 1000 miles. The mileage is currently 70k miles. This is not the result of lack of maintenance or neglect but because of Hyundais engine design. I was told by the local dealership that I would need a total engine re build. This was the only option to fix the issue 100%. I was told that if the issue is not fixed it will result in engine failure. Hyundai is not recalling their engines or acknowledging the inherent danger this will cause. I am at my engines will if I cannot afford this repair because Hyundai won’t honor the Powertrain warranty.

While driving on the freeway at normal highway speed, the vehicle experienced a sudden and catastrophic engine failure. The engine immediately lost power, and the vehicle shut down within seconds. There was no prior warning or opportunity to take corrective action. The vehicle became completely disabled and could not be driven. This occurred late at night with limited traffic, and I was LUCKY to be near a freeway exit. I was able to coast toward the exit, but the engine seized fully, resulting in total loss of propulsion and blocking the freeway exit ramp. Law enforcement had to assist due to the disabled vehicle creating a traffic obstruction and safety hazard. A tow truck was required to remove the vehicle because it could not be restarted or moved. Under normal traffic conditions, this sudden loss of engine power at freeway speed could have resulted in a SERIOUS, potentially FATAL COLLISION. The outcome depended on luck, timing, and location rather than any safety system functioning as intended. The engine was later diagnosed by an authorized Hyundai dealership as seized due to internal failure. Hyundai denied warranty coverage because a software safety campaign had not been completed prior to the failure, even though the failure occurred suddenly and without warning, leaving no opportunity to complete the campaign. However, at the time of the failure, the NHTSA recall lookup tool showed ZERO unrepaired recalls associated with this vehicle’s VIN. The campaign referenced by Hyundai is intended only to detect certain engine conditions and does not repair engine defects. In this case, the engine failed before any detection or warning could occur. The vehicle had just been refueled and was equipped with four brand-new tires, confirming it was being operated normally. This incident involved an unexpected and complete loss of engine power at freeway speed due to an apparent engine defect, presenting a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK to the driver and other motorists.

No accident has occurred as of yet (for my case). Ongoing issues with Hyundai left brake bulb and center brake bulb burning out due to over-amperage. These two are on their own 10A circuit separate from the 5A circuit for the right brakelight bulb. It appears that these two bulbs are possibly receiving 15A and therefore burning out prematurely (3 months or less). I recently replaced these two bulbs at the same time, and now my battery is shorted. To keep my battery charged, I need to pull my 15A Brake Lamp fuse while the car is parked. This has now caused my ABS light to come on, as that system relies on the signal from the 15A brake lamp circuit. I suspect that some 15A components (10A+5A) received 20A (15A+5A) and welded shut. I am still looking for it to trace it down, resources are limited and I'm intent on just buying the $35 diagnostics book. Hyundai dealership did not inform me that this fuse was pulled while I drove home from the shop yesterday, creating an unsafe condition. They quoted me $500 to replace a brake lamp relay and the ABS (I'm assuming the whole ABS, but maybe just the control module), I declined. My plan for now, as this car isn't driven much, is to trace it down and find the shorted component. From my research, this is clearly affecting many years of Hyundais and Kias, not just my Elantra and not just my year. In fact, it's SO common that there are facebook groups (such as this one [XXX] ) dedicated to helping owners remedy this defect. I think a recall service, and a full investigation of what is electrically wrong with these cars, and what the actual remedy should be, is necessary based on the amount of cars that could be impacted. Hyundai & Kia technicians I am SURE are intimately knowledgeable about this issue by now and us owners are on the hook, having only 80,000 miles of warranty on anything purchased used. Please reach out with any add'l questions. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I was driving down the interstate when my car completely locked up, my brakes stopped working, the steering wheel wouldn't turn, the car completely shut down, so I had to make my way off the bisy interstate luckily I didn't have an accident so I took it to a mechanic and found out the alternator went out, so it was replaced then less than a year later i had issues with the headlights not working then magically comong on while driving, and the interior lighta will work then bot work but the bulbs are new, leading to another replacement alternator, then less than about 8 months pass and I have issues with the electrical stuff again not wanting to work even when new bulbs are pit in the car, the radio turning on and off by itself and I've had to put it a third alternator in less than 3 years, it's a driving hazard and safety hazard. My driver side door handle will only open from the inside and it doesn't shut inkess the door is locked and the car has to be turned on. The belt in my 2016 hyundai elanyra looks like it's shredding and it's throwing black stuff on the inside of my hood. I've had preoffwsional mechanics look at it and the alternator is assembled correctly, and now my ball joints are all of a sudden needing to be replaced inthe front.

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that upon inspection, it was discovered that the interior emergency trunk release was inoperable, and the trunk could not be opened from inside the vehicle. The contacted stated that the vehicle was previously serviced under NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V146000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES); but the vehicle experienced the failure listed in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer and local dealer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 154,000.

See attached document for complaint

P0420 P0441 P0014 P1326 C1260 C1688 C2130 These are the codes that's affecting my car

I was driving normally down the road and all of a sudden I lost control and couldn’t turn my vehicle apparently the control arm rusted from the subframe, causing me to swerve hit a curb and cause more damage to the front end. Thank God I was on a not so busy street! I could have killed myself or someone else all because this company’s metal rusted out.

WE WERE DRIVING ON 1-95 HIGHWAY WHEN THE FRONT TIRE DISINTEGRATED AND CAUSED CAR DAMAGE TO FRONT BUMPER, LEFT QUARTER PANEL, RIM, WHEEL COVER, AND DRIVER SIDE WINDOW ASSEMBLY. THE TIRE NAME IS HANKOOK TIRES OPTIMA H-428. THE HYUNDAI ELANTTRA BOUGHT IN 2016 HAD ONLY APPROX. 19,000 MILES. *TR

MY PASSENGER RIGHT FRONT TIRE HIT A CURB AND WAS FLATTENED. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR. BOTH FRONT WHEELS WERE OUT OF ALIGNMENT, SO IT WAS SUGGESTED BY THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT TO REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEELS AND HAVE THEM ALIGNED AS WELL. THEY GAVE ME TWO OPTIONS FOR TIRES. ONE OPTION WHICH I CHOSE WAS THE SOLUS TA-31 2204733. BOTH FRONT TIRES WERE REPLACED AND ALIGNED. THE FOLLOWING DAY I DROVE APPROXIMATELY 17 MILES TO WORK VIA HIGHWAY. IN THE AFTERNOON, I DROVE 2 MILES TO GET LUNCH. WHILE SITTING IN THE DRIVE THRU WINDOW, I HEARD A LOUD NOISE AND REALIZED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE TIRE (OPPOSITE TIRE) HAD BLOWN AND THE NOTIFICATION LIGHT WENT ON THE DASHBOARD. IT WAS A MATTER OF 4 SECONDS FOR THE TIRE TO GO COMPLETELY FLAT. THE CAR WAS THEN TOWED FOR THE SECOND TIME WITHIN 48 HOURS TO THE DEALERSHIP SERVICE SHOP FOR REPAIRS. REALIZING THAT THIS COULD HAVE OCCURRED ON THE HIGHWAY WHILE DRIVING HOME AND TRAVELING OVER SPEEDS OF 60 MPH, I THEN KNEW IT WAS A SAFETY ISSUE AND THAT NEW (1 DAY OLD) TIRES SHOULD NOT JUST BURST. ACCORDING TO THE REPRESENTATIVE AT THE SERVICE SHOP, THE BEAD WIRE HAD SEPARATED FROM THE RIM TO ALLOW AIR TO ESCAPE. HE DID MENTION THAT HE WOULD HAVE TO SEND THE COMPLAINT TO THE TIRE MANUFACTURING COMPANY (KUMHO) FOR COMPENSATION AND THAT IT MAY TAKE UP TO 4 MONTHS. HE MENTIONED A FEW OTHER TIRES ON HIS DESK IN A SIMILAR SITUATION. HAD I BEEN TRAVELING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, I FEEL THAT THE SITUATION MY HAVE BEEN MUCH MORE SERIOUS.

The vehicle's security system malfunctioned immediately after service at Parks Hyundai of Gainesville on 05/27/26 for Recall 256 & Campaign P33. The alarm blares & emergency lights flash while I am driving on public roads. This defect first presented in the dealership parking lot upon pickup. This creates a severe safety risk: the high-decibel alarm is a major distraction, the flashing lights confuse other motorists, & the malfunction prevents me from using turn signals, violating safety protocols. I demonstrated this to the service manager on 06/10/26. While the technician acknowledged the defect during a road test & performed a 'cap reset' (documented on the repair order), this attempt failed to resolve the issue. Despite this, the service manager refuses to acknowledge the defect, claiming it is an 'intended feature' of a 2023 recall at a different facility (993). This contradicts the technician's findings & my years of incident-free driving until the work on 05/27/26. The dealership initially omitted my return visit from their records, only acknowledging it after I confronted them in writing. An independent shop confirmed this electrical failure likely stems from P33, but requires proprietary dealer tools to diagnose. Attached video proves the vehicle runs while the alarm blares, confirming no relation to old Campaign 993 logic. Attached Repair Order proves the technician acknowledged the defect & attempted a repair. Despite this, the service manager ignores the documentation, his own technician's findings, & my demonstrations, blaming my locking habits while refusing a deep diagnostic. After 16 days in their possession, neither the dealer nor manufacturer has provided a remedy. If this malfunction were an intended feature, it would be an ongoing hazard; it creates a distraction, causes a panic response, & prevents the adequate use of turn signals while in operation. The vehicle is unsafe, & the dealership & manufacturer have failed to provide a valid repair.

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Available for inspection upon request. Please do! Loss of power. Reported same issues a year ago. Brought to dealership, sold on other services that did not solve problem. Opened a case with Hyundai. No solution. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? Random loss of power. Hyundai rep stated it’s a problem their systems do not actually scan for so it’s common this won’t appear in inspection reports. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Dealer rep drove my car and mentioned he noticed it tries to accelerate when idle, but without a code he can’t do anything about it. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? A Hyundai dealership inspection was completed. Suggestion I buy a new engine. I declined since the multiple repairs paid for already were supposed to fix the problem, but they didn’t. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? No warning lights for anything in over a year but I am still dealing with same loss of power and acceleration control issues.

Just driving down the road and the drivers side front window fell down. I tried to push the switch for to make it go lback up because it was windy and rainy. It just made the window drop down more. I was wondering if anyone else has had this complaint . It’s pulled back up and taped but it won’t go back up and tape keeps coming loose. It’s expensive to fix . I also fixed my trunk latch which was on a recall because when I called the dealer at that time there was no recall on it. I was stuck at Walmart and it wouldn’t close. The dealer wanted over 700 to fix trunk latch so I bought the part to fix it but I am checking to see if anyone else has complained on the window motor .

Back windshield is completely bubbled and pealing. I’ve noticed this year is notorious for it.

The seat belts have failed to latch and/or unlatch on many occasions.

2016 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CONSUMER STATES THAT AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY DURING ACCIDENT. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE AIRBAG MAY NOT OPERATE PROPERLY. *JS THE CONSUMER STATED THE AIRBAGS AND THE SEATBELT MAY NOT HAVE OPERATED AS DESIGNED A CRASH. *JS

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Elantra equipped with Waterfall Tires, Tire Line: Eco Dynamic, Tire Size:195/65/R15, DOT Number: 48AEYUEN. The contact stated that while performing an oil change on the vehicle, the contact discovered that the steel belt was exposed on the front driver’s and front passenger’s side tires due to severe tread separation. The dealer that sold the contact the tires was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the tires had exceeded the 90-day warranty period. The contact was then informed that the tires were still covered under warranty through the manufacturer. The contact made several attempts to reach the tire manufacturer through email but had not received a response. The tires were replaced. The tire failure mileage was approximately 12,000. The vehicle failure mileage was approximately 134,000.

I purchased a new vehicle, 2016 Hyundai, from a local dealer, with a current mileage of 47,000. Hankook tires were OEM with the vehicle. I religiously bring my vehicle into the dealer for all maintenance, including rotating and balancing the tires every 3,000 miles. The first set of tires FAILED (less than 3/32) at approximately 23,000 miles. The dealer indicated that I need new tires and that the tread wear failure was more than likely due to a defective set. So, they sold me another set of the same tire. I was in the dealer the other day for maintenance, oil change, tire rotation, etc. and was told that the new set of tires have 3/32 left on them and that I need a new set of tires. These tires have approximately 24,000 miles on them. The Hankook tires that I have are supposedly warranted for 70,000 miles. The tread failure at 24,000 miles means I have approximately 1/3 of the use - advertised warranty and actual life expectancy is fraud - it is no where close. It is a gimmick to prorate and hook the consumer into buying another set of tires. The dealer is trying to sell me, yet again, ANOTHER set of tires. At this point I have gone through TWO SETS of Hankook tires, within 47,000 miles. This is not normal. OEM tires on my Honda lasted twice as long before having to purchase a new set. Yet, the OEM and new set that I purchased are averaging 23,000 miles each, with a said warranty of 70,000 miles?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE DRIVER COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, RESTARTED THE VEHICLE, AND RESUMED DRIVING. ON ANOTHER OCCASION, WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THERE WAS A KNOCKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 21,000.

My vehicle started to have a slight delay when shifted from park to drive. Within a week's time the delay turned to a very hard shift which made car jump fast and hard making tires screech yet there was no check engine light. Then it started slipping out of gear on highway then it wouldn't go into the last gear and when in stop and go traffic fall out of gear when stopped then thrust really hard burning rubber when accelerating so had to distance myself far behind other cars so I wouldn't crash into them trying to accelerate after a stop. I get home safely let my vehicle rest a few hours before attempting to take car to be inspected. So I back out of drive way and my car doesn't go into drive at all and then the check engine light comes on. Now I have a friend bring scanner and the code P0722 comes up. I am disabled and on a fixed income still paying on the car. Luckily I broke down in front of my house.