2025 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Problems

I am writing to document my case regarding my leased 2025 Hyundai Ioniq 5 XRT. Vehicle: 2025 Ioniq 5 XRT, VIN [XXX] Lease start / delivery date: Odometer: 4,368 miles Servicing dealer: Stevinson Hyundai, [XXX] Case number: XXX What happened: On Saturday, XXX, while I was driving, the vehicle displayed "Stop vehicle and check power supply" with the red 12V battery warning and the master warning light, and power was limited to approximately 25 mph. The high-voltage battery was at 66 percent. I was able to get the vehicle home at reduced speed, and Hyundai Roadside Assistance towed it to the dealer the same day. The symptoms are consistent with an ICCU failure, pending the dealer's diagnosis. Photos of the instrument cluster are attached. I consider a sudden loss of drive power at 4,368 miles to be a safety-related defect, and I have reported it to NHTSA. My situation: This is one of two vehicles in our household, and both of us need to get to work. The dealer is about 30 miles from my home. I am without transportation as of September 19. What I am requesting: 1. Written authorization for a rental vehicle starting immediately and continuing until my vehicle is repaired and returned, including the approved daily rate and how billing or reimbursement will work. 2. A parts availability check and estimated repair date as soon as the dealer confirms the diagnosis. 3. If the vehicle is out of service for an extended period, reimbursement of my lease payments for the time I cannot use it. 4. Confirmation of the warranty coverage that applies to the ICCU on this VIN, including any extended ICCU coverage. I am keeping a record of the days the vehicle is out of service, starting XXX. Please reply in writing so I have everything documented. Thank you for your help, [XXX] [XXX] [XXX] [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Full electrical power system failure. Heard a loud pop noise emanating from under the rear seats of the car. The power. Failure lights came on and the car lost power. We were able to get the car to slowly drive back to the garage where it completely shut down and was inoperable from that point on. Car has been towed to the local dealer for diagnostics and repair.

On 8/30 my vehicle experienced a power loss on a highway (reported here separately). I took the car to the dealership and they could not replicate the error and gave the vehicle back to me on 9/4. Later that day I had to drive 2 hours north to a wedding in the mountains. At 9:30pm my vehicle experienced a full drive power loss on an unlighted, curving, rural 2-lane mountain road in an area with minimal cell phone service. I tried to restart the vehicle several times and could not get any power. I called roadside assistance and had to wait over 2 hours in the dark on a winding mountain road for the tow truck to find us and then be towed 40 minutes away to the nearest dealership where my car is still sitting waiting to be looked at (2 hours away from where I live)

Driving home near my apartment, I had to join a busy highway from a full stop. I found a small gap and tried to accelerate to quickly merge into traffic, when my car made a high pitched alert noise and noticably did not accelerate beyond about 25 miles per hour on a 45-50mph highway with heavy traffic. I turned on my hazards and still ended up with a line up of cars honking behind me. Flooring the accelerator did absolutely nothing to increase my speed. On slight downhills I could get up to about 40mph but as soon as it leveled off my speed went back down to limping along. I was able to exit the highway at slow speed and tried to parallel park in an avaialble spot but could not reverse. I tried to drive on toward my house but the car could not make it up the hill even with the full accelerator pedal down. People were stuck behind me on my street so I turned the car off and back on again and the car appeared to resume normal operation and I was able to drive up the hill. I took the car to the dealer and they were "not able to replicate the error". They did fix a seat belt recall and updated the software for my ECU and said to come back if it happened again...

I am writing to document my case regarding my leased 2025 Hyundai Ioniq 5 XRT. Vehicle: 2025 Ioniq 5 XRT, VIN [XXX] Lease start / delivery date: Odometer: 4,368 miles Servicing dealer: Stevinson Hyundai, [XXX] Case number: XXX What happened: On Saturday, XXX, while I was driving, the vehicle displayed "Stop vehicle and check power supply" with the red 12V battery warning and the master warning light, and power was limited to approximately 25 mph. The high-voltage battery was at 66 percent. I was able to get the vehicle home at reduced speed, and Hyundai Roadside Assistance towed it to the dealer the same day. The symptoms are consistent with an ICCU failure, pending the dealer's diagnosis. Photos of the instrument cluster are attached. I consider a sudden loss of drive power at 4,368 miles to be a safety-related defect, and I have reported it to NHTSA. My situation: This is one of two vehicles in our household, and both of us need to get to work. The dealer is about 30 miles from my home. I am without transportation as of September 19. What I am requesting: 1. Written authorization for a rental vehicle starting immediately and continuing until my vehicle is repaired and returned, including the approved daily rate and how billing or reimbursement will work. 2. A parts availability check and estimated repair date as soon as the dealer confirms the diagnosis. 3. If the vehicle is out of service for an extended period, reimbursement of my lease payments for the time I cannot use it. 4. Confirmation of the warranty coverage that applies to the ICCU on this VIN, including any extended ICCU coverage. I am keeping a record of the days the vehicle is out of service, starting XXX. Please reply in writing so I have everything documented. Thank you for your help, [XXX] [XXX] [XXX] [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I started the car and got the warning "check electric vehicle system." The car then lost power. It would only go 27mph with the accelerator pedal pushed all the way to the floor. My safety was at risk because my car was not responding appropriately to driver input. The car is at the dealership as it is undriveable in this condition. This is the second incident with this vehicle within 6 months.

Driving home near my apartment, I had to join a busy highway from a full stop. I found a small gap and tried to accelerate to quickly merge into traffic, when my car made a high pitched alert noise and noticably did not accelerate beyond about 25 miles per hour on a 45-50mph highway with heavy traffic. I turned on my hazards and still ended up with a line up of cars honking behind me. Flooring the accelerator did absolutely nothing to increase my speed. On slight downhills I could get up to about 40mph but as soon as it leveled off my speed went back down to limping along. I was able to exit the highway at slow speed and tried to parallel park in an avaialble spot but could not reverse. I tried to drive on toward my house but the car could not make it up the hill even with the full accelerator pedal down. People were stuck behind me on my street so I turned the car off and back on again and the car appeared to resume normal operation and I was able to drive up the hill. I took the car to the dealer and they were "not able to replicate the error". They did fix a seat belt recall and updated the software for my ECU and said to come back if it happened again...

While driving this EV with cruise control on, the dashboard suddenly showed a message that “Smart Cruise Control conditions not met”. Attempting to re-engage the cruise control did not work and then the vehicle suddenly lost all propulsion (pressing the accelerator did nothing). The car quickly slowed to about 20 mph before we could maneuver it to the shoulder and turn it off. After a couple minutes, we restarted the car and drove it to the dealer. There were no other messages or warning lights or indicators. The dealer could not find anything wrong and asked us to pick up the car and resume using it. We use both a home charger (Emporia) and roadside (Tesla) chargers.

Full electrical power system failure. Heard a loud pop noise emanating from under the rear seats of the car. The power. Failure lights came on and the car lost power. We were able to get the car to slowly drive back to the garage where it completely shut down and was inoperable from that point on. Car has been towed to the local dealer for diagnostics and repair.

I heard a loud popped sound from the back of my car while driving home. The car lost power and eventually died on the street. The war displacy came on to tell em to check electrical system. I originally bought th car from Capitol Huyndai in San Jose on September 2025 and it has 5992 miles. I towed the car to Dublin Hyundai for repair and confirmed the DTCP1A9096 for ICCU computer failing to charge the 12 v battery. It was a well known recall . I do not have any update on the repair since 8/25/26. I worry about my safety because the car can lose power while driving

Driving at highway speeds, the front end feels unstable. It feels as if the tires are jumping around and will move the car to the right or left. It is difficult to maintain control. I had it into the dealer shortly after I bought the car to complain about what I thought was a front end alignment problem. They didn't think there was an issue until they got it into the shop. They said afterwords that it WAS OUT OF LINE. But their fix did not hold, so I went in again for the one year maintenace and mentioned the problem, but they said it was not out of line. Well, The problem still exists. Something serious is wrong and needs to be fixed.

While using Highway Driving Assist/Lane Following Assist on Interstate highways, lane markings frequently disappear on overpasses and in construction areas. When this occurs, lane-centering assistance silently disengages. The only indication is a small dashboard icon changing color. There is no audible warning, steering wheel vibration, or other prominent alert. The vehicle may begin drifting before the driver realizes steering assistance has been lost. Observed repeatedly on Massachusetts highways, including I-495 and I-290. This creates an unexpected and serious safety issue, potentially resulting in an accident. I had this happen during a recent trip, and multiple times the car wandered towards an adjacent lane. It caused me to lose confidence in the system, and to maintain constant vigilance, gripping the wheel tightly at all times. Had I not done so, I’m sure I would have had an incident. Who watches the dashboard all the time? The driver's eyes are supposed to be on the road ahead, especially when approaching an overpass. Had they incorporated an audible or tactile alert, this would have greatly increased the driver’s awareness and potentially avoid a crash. Since the system obviously knows when it has disengaged, it would be a simple matter to implement this. My preference would be steering wheel vibration.

1. Sudden Unintended Acceleration On two (2) separate occasions, after coming to a complete stop at a red light with foot on the brake pedal, the vehicle suddenly lurched forward on its own. 2. Brake Pedal Malfunction On more than ten (10) occasions, when attempting to stop at a light, the brake pedal briefly behaves like the accelerator for approximately 1–2 seconds. Driver has to release the brake and press it again to restore normal braking function. 3. Doors Unlocking/Opening on Their Own On more than one hundred (100) occasions, approximately 10 minutes after parking — with no key fob or phone nearby — a door opens on its own. Confirmed via mobile app notification and visual confirmation from a distance each time. 4. Apple CarPlay Connectivity Issues CarPlay frequently fails to connect. During phone calls specifically, the connection drops in and out intermittently. 5. Sticky Residue on Door Handles A sticky, adhesive-like residue is present on the interior passenger door grab handle and rear door handles. Residue does not clean off and transfers to hands on every use.

1. Sudden Unintended Acceleration On two (2) separate occasions, after coming to a complete stop at a red light with foot on the brake pedal, the vehicle suddenly lurched forward on its own. 2. Brake Pedal Malfunction On more than ten (10) occasions, when attempting to stop at a light, the brake pedal briefly behaves like the accelerator for approximately 1–2 seconds. Driver has to release the brake and press it again to restore normal braking function. 3. Doors Unlocking/Opening on Their Own On more than one hundred (100) occasions, approximately 10 minutes after parking — with no key fob or phone nearby — a door opens on its own. Confirmed via mobile app notification and visual confirmation from a distance each time. 4. Apple CarPlay Connectivity Issues CarPlay frequently fails to connect. During phone calls specifically, the connection drops in and out intermittently. 5. Sticky Residue on Door Handles A sticky, adhesive-like residue is present on the interior passenger door grab handle and rear door handles. Residue does not clean off and transfers to hands on every use.

On April 20th while parking the vehicle suddenly had a power surge crossing over multiple curbs and across a parking lot and landscaped areas and hitting a tree. The vehicle refused to brake and the driver airbag never deployed.

Ioniq 5's yellow air bag wire/harness underneath driver seat has design flaw, many other owners are noticing. In my case the cables are touching the floor, it's a hazard.

The Moon Roof glass, which is not designed to open, developed a non-impact, or stress fracture. Since it is not supposed to open, the glass is a structural part of the vehicle. It was not cracked when I first took possession of the vehicle, and since I did not open the interior screen all winter, I never noticed the crack. I reported it to the dealer, but it did not take responsibility or offer a replacement.

My Ioniq5 has experienced a recurring water leak that has repeatedly exposed the left rear seat belt and seat belt retractor to large amounts of water. I noticed recently that after it had rained the left back seat belt was soaked and dripping water when pulled out. After fully pulling out the belt as far as it would go it was clear that the water had fully soaked the belt and retractor. It is unclear when this started or how long this has been occurring, as there was no warning or other indication that there was a leak until the belt happened to be put on soon after it had rained. I am uncertain if this poses an actual risk to the function of the seat belt or seat belt retractor. However, even though it is unknown if the water intrusion limits the seat belt's function, there is a perceived risk that this could corrode or degrade the function of the internal components due to the repeated water exposure. The car was taken to the dealership twice. The first time they claimed they were unable to repeat the issue. However, days later it rained again and the belt and retractor were again soaked. After the second return to the dealership they were able to confirm a leak in the glass roof of the vehicle that was allowing the intrusion to the seat belt and retractor. The car is still currently at the dealer awaiting repair for the water leak with an unknown timeline

The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 25V797000 (Seat Belts); however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The dealer was contacted, and it was confirmed that the part was not available. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue, and a case was opened. The contact had not experienced a failure.

My Ioniq5 has experienced a recurring water leak that has repeatedly exposed the left rear seat belt and seat belt retractor to large amounts of water. I noticed recently that after it had rained the left back seat belt was soaked and dripping water when pulled out. After fully pulling out the belt as far as it would go it was clear that the water had fully soaked the belt and retractor. It is unclear when this started or how long this has been occurring, as there was no warning or other indication that there was a leak until the belt happened to be put on soon after it had rained. I am uncertain if this poses an actual risk to the function of the seat belt or seat belt retractor. However, even though it is unknown if the water intrusion limits the seat belt's function, there is a perceived risk that this could corrode or degrade the function of the internal components due to the repeated water exposure. The car was taken to the dealership twice. The first time they claimed they were unable to repeat the issue. However, days later it rained again and the belt and retractor were again soaked. After the second return to the dealership they were able to confirm a leak in the glass roof of the vehicle that was allowing the intrusion to the seat belt and retractor. The car is still currently at the dealer awaiting repair for the water leak with an unknown timeline

While driving on normal paved roads, a small vibration was heard from the rear of the vehicle. A person near the car when leaving the origin that morning heard a minor clicking sound at low speed from the rear of the vehicle. The vibration at that point seemed to be related to the rural mountain road that had some rutting. Continuing to drive, but onto better roads, the vibration became louder and louder, and appeared related to speed. Nothing appeared loose when stopping to charge. Vibration became loud (above conversation), stopped to inspect. Removed aerodynamic cover from lug nuts on right rear, and found two lugnuts completely sheared off (fell out when cover removed), with a third hanging on at less-than-finger tight. Vehicle driven slowly to safe location where it was towed to dealer. Dealer reported that the rim was bent in addition to sheared lug nuts as well as a damaged wheel bearing.

Car has worn down both rear tires to wires and dealer has said alignment is way out and could be suspension issues. Checked recalls and don’t see any but it’s clear there is a serious issue as these tires should have worn like this

Two tires failed dramatically, (on two separate days, but separated by only 121 miles of driving), causing extensive damage the first time and causing a total loss the second time. The first tire has been disposed of, but the second is available still. Each was on the highway and luckily there was not much traffic so I was able to pull safely onto the shoulder each time. However, if I had not been able to get over, our safety and that of others was at risk if we had been involved in a collision. My safety and my that of my elderly, handicapped brother was at risk the first time especially, because this is an EV and at one point on July 4, 100 degree temperatures in the early afternoon in South Carolina, the electrical system had been damaged and we could not, for a few minutes, get doors or windows open. The components (tires) have only been inspected by repair shops. There was no warning either time. The tires are 235/55 R 19.

I need to report a serious vehicle safety concern involving a catastrophic front-right tire failure at highway speed. I am requesting a Hyundai case number and preservation of all physical evidence. Please preserve the failed tire, detached tread assembly, bead remnants, wheel, TPMS components and all service records. These items constitute material evidence necessary to determine whether the initiating cause was underinflation, rapid pressure loss, mounting damage, belt separation, bead failure or a manufacturing defect. The vehicle had been returned after approximately one month at a repair facility. After the incident, the three remaining tires measured 41, 35 and 35 psi, while the vehicle placard specifies 38 psi. The pre-failure pressure of the destroyed tire is unknown.

I purchased this vehicle on [XXX] in the state of Colorado and had to drive it home through a winter storm to California. While driving home the vehicle on multiple occasion the vehicle flagged driver assist disabled or inoperable errors due to "radar blocked" stopping and checking the front of the vehicle I found that the car had no snow or ice build up on the exterior of the bumper, and there was no reason that all the driver assist and even safety features like Automatic Emergency Braking had been disabled. In addition while making this drive home, the vehicle passenger side wiper failed catastrophically. Over a 30 day process the local dealer replaced the broken wiper blade motor, and determined there was nothing wrong with the internal Auto assist system, even stating there were no DTC/ or error codes present. I provided them with images of the errors and millage, but nothing further could be done because they could not "replicate the issue" and no codes are being stored. At around 1430 miles I was driving in dry, warmer weather (around 50 degrees) when another error flashed on my screen again. I brought the vehicle back to the dealership for diagnostics, where they have yet to determine the issue again. They've stated no DTC or error codes are present, and they can not reproduce the issue so the vehicle is operating "normally and designed". I have been working with Hyundai Consumer Affairs during this entire time to help speed this process along, they have no answer other than, if the error appears again, do not turn of the vehicle, drop everything your doing in your life and bring it directly to the dealership for diagnostics (even if its active safety features are not working while your driving it). INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)