Owner-reported complaints naming the powertrain system, filed with NHTSA
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Powertrain reports that are not specifically the engine or transmission — driveshafts, axles, transfer cases and differentials. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2016 Hyundai Veloster submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 42 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
The 25 most recent of 42, in the owner's own words
I was driving down the highway when I lost all power to my engine and had to coast off and exit. Prior to the incident there was no indication of a problem. White smoke began coming out of my exhaust. I brought the car to a dealership and they told me that I would need a timing job and a new turbo. They said that my car was starved for oil, regular maintenance had been kept up with on the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that while driving at 35 MPH, the vehicle shuddered and stalled. The vehicle was restarted. The contact shifted to reverse and pulled into a parking lot. The message that the transmission had overheated was displayed. The contact used a scanner and diagnosed the vehicle with clutch actuator failure. The local dealer was contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 86,494.
While driving my 2016 Hyundai Veloster (VIN: [XXX] ) on the highway, the vehicle suddenly lost acceleration. I went from 60 mph down to 20 mph with no throttle response, and the car only continued moving briefly from momentum. I was forced to stop in unsafe highway conditions and had the vehicle towed home. Prior to this complete failure, the car had recurring transmission/drive issues: it would start, but when placed in reverse it moved backward, and when shifted into drive it still only moved backward. Despite repeated repair attempts, the problems persisted. A certified mechanic later inspected the vehicle and confirmed severe internal engine damage, including metallic noises, blue smoke, oil leakage from worn piston rings, and complete compression loss. The mechanic concluded the vehicle requires deep engine repair or replacement. These failures are consistent with widespread reports of Hyundai Veloster engine defects, which pose serious safety risks to drivers. My vehicle is now inoperable despite responsible maintenance and repeated attempts to fix the issue. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
King Hyundai hung up/refused free Recall 198 inspection despite confirmed defect (rod bearing/crank damage). VIN [XXX] . Case #1824300. Safety risk—stall/fire. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I am the second owner of a 2016 Hyundai Veloster Base, purchased used at approximately 19,976 miles. Since then, the vehicle has experienced multiple major powertrain-related failures. At 49,196 miles, the first catalytic converter failed and was replaced. Later, both the engine and second catalytic converter were replaced by Kearny Mesa Hyundai, a certified Hyundai dealership in San Diego, CA. When I brought the vehicle to Kearny Mesa Hyundai, there were no warning lights or active diagnostic trouble codes. However, the dealership’s service documentation stated that a P0420 code (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) was present — a code that was not active when I dropped off the vehicle, raising concerns about diagnostic accuracy or documentation. Now, at 61,982 miles, I brought the vehicle to Hyundai Ontario due to delayed shifting and hesitation when accelerating. The dealership diagnosed internal transmission failure and quoted approximately $5,000 for repairs. There were no warning lights or codes detected, meaning this diagnosis is based solely on driving symptoms. The failure of two catalytic converters, the engine, and now the transmission — all within approximately 42,000 miles of ownership — raises serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this vehicle and possible manufacturing defects. The transmission symptoms pose a serious safety risk, especially when merging or accelerating into traffic. I am requesting that this vehicle be investigated for potential systemic issues affecting its powertrain components.
The component that failed is acceleration. He came from work at the Frywed when he reduced the speed from 65 to 30 and no longer accelerated .. if an independent service had no warning or failure at that time they were detected
The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that while driving from a complete stop and depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle hesitated and responded slowly. The contact stated that the failure had been recurring while driving. Additionally, the contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle decelerated independently. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where both catalytic converters were replaced, and the fuel lines were cleaned; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, where the vehicle was test-driven, and the mechanic informed the contact that the failure could be related to the transmission. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 150,000.
Unknown Regular oil changes, cranked my car up one morning and it started knocking, I have been in a rental for 2 weeks now and paying out pocket as a single mother in grad school. The dealers excuse of not diagnosing the car sooner, is that their schedule is busy after arguing with the extended warranty company about my coverage. I booked their next soonest appointment to be told we'll see if we can get it looked at that day. I believe they're hiding the fact that my bricks falls under recall 198 and do not want to admit it.
Sudden power Loss when driving or turning. Engine began making noise check engine light came.on. parked made apt at deaser. ODB reader said was 02 sunsor bank one and camshaft poisition overclocked. Check engine light off when took to dealer. dealer said engine needs replaced 97k miles. Recent synthetic oil change 2 months prior to fail.
Unknown Vehicle stalls and misfires
When I first bought my car it seemed to have some sort of transmission problem because it's a dual clutch I was told they do have problems sometimes when I'm trying to pick up speed it seems like it won't switch gears so it won't pick up speed which is extremely dangerous especially when I'm on the beltway or highway and I've already had Hyundai replace the first transmission because it was faulty now my second transmission is already acting up and it's only been 2 years
Cruising on freeway ~70 mph when car starts slowing due to lack of power- for unknown reason car went into "limp mode", with turbo boost pressure and power cut off, barely enough power to keep car at 60 mph in order to make it to freeway exit to pull off. This could have caused serious collision. Turned off car, let it sit 1 min, turned it back on, and problem seemed to go away. No Check Engine Light, no OBD2 codes. Limp mode sometimes occur during harsh shifts but releasing throttle and reengaging usually fixes it but this time needed to shut off the car. Has been reported to dealer but they can't reproduce consistently and no CEL/codes so they won't try to find a fix. But losing power for no apparent reason on freeway definitely dangerous situation.
The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to the dealer for the recall repair of NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V746000 (Engine) and the dealer-installed a software update containing a new Knock Sensor Detection System; however, while driving 35 MPH, the vehicle began to stall. The check engine warning light illuminated. The contact was able to push the vehicle to the side of the road with assistance. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. Then, the vehicle was taken to a transmission specialist who diagnosed that the transmission was in great condition; however, the engine was not communicating with the transmission. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who completed a transmission relearn; however, the vehicle was sluggish while accelerating from a complete stop. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer who diagnosed that there were metal shavings in the engine oil, the engine was knocking loudly, and there was a significant amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. The dealer reset the Knock Sensor Detection System software. The contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring and the vehicle would not exceed 45 MPH. The vehicle was taken to a second dealer - Hyundai of Yuma (1125 E 32nd St, Yuma, AZ 85365) who diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The second dealer sent a diagnostic report to the manufacturer and requested a new engine; however, the manufacturer denied the request due to the vehicle having a salvage title. The contact stated that only the rear end of the vehicle was reconstructed as the vehicle was involved in a crash. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 58,900.
- When it shifts from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd gear, the RPMs will keep going up until I take my foot off the gas. So if I need to merge onto a highway quickly and it stalls in one gear, it can go up to 6k or 7k RPMs without shifting. I never let it get past it because I take my foot off the gas to let it shift because I'm afraid it will blow something. - When in automatic and at a stop, if you go, it will sometimes rev up a little high before shifting and also pull a lot faster versus other times when it shifts normally. To keep me on my toes, it will sometimes do the opposite and not accelerate very well at all. Almost like I press the gas and nothing happens until it's pressed all the way and then it will go. - The tachometer will lag on what RPM the engine is actually on. So you'll know it's clearly at 3k but it will only read on 1k for a few seconds before quickly going up to what it's supposed to be on. - There's also a knocking noise when my car is idling for a little while. It's every 5 to 10 minutes there's a loud knock coming from the engine. - I also understand when driving slow, for example like a drive-thru, DCT don't typically like that. But when I am in a line like that or traffic, it will stutter as if it's about to stall or shut off completely. And not like a light shake, it was very noticeable that everyone felt as if it was going to sputter and turn off. With these multiple issues, it makes me and my passengers feel extremely unsafe and it's concerning that anytime I've taken it to the dealership it's shrugged off by saying the DCT transmissions sometimes "act weird". I'm not sure how that's an answer to something that is pretty dangerous.
My driveway has a slight incline to get out of and every morning when I start to leave the car will start to jerk- like it isn't gong into gear and i have to back off the gas pedal to stop it. It is hard to describe. But it definitely should not be making that sound. Yes I can take if for inspection. When I am at a stop light or just stopped and whenever I turn the car wants to hesitate and sometimes jerks me. Transmission issue here I believe. About got hit on several times because of the engine not performing when I press the gas. When I drive on the highway for 2-4 hrs, when I get off and stop the car is like it is still on the highway. Meaning when I push on the throttle it takes off. As far as I know, when I take my car to Hyundai for oil changes and maintenance work they haven't inspected my car. Ever since I purchased the car- it has never ran right. Something for sure is wrong with the motor- When I need the turbo to work- it kicks in around 40 mile an hr- not when I put on the gas. The car just runs terrible. There is also a horrible blind spot on both sides where the mirrors are. Horrible.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HYUNDAI VELOSTER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL KNOCKING COMING FROM THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT HAD TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO LARRY H. MILLER CHRYSLER JEEP DODGE RAM BOUNTIFUL (755 N 500 W, WEST BOUNTIFUL, UT 84010) AND LARRY H. MILLER SOUTHWEST HYUNDAI ALBUQUERQUE (8800 LOMAS BLVD NE, ALBUQUERQUE, NM 87112) HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 28,300.
MY CAR HESITATED FROM A STOP SIGN, THEN LAUNCHED FORWARD CAUSING IT TO UNCONTROLLABLY JUMP FORWARD VERY FAST. WHEN I WENT TO HIT THE BRAKES THEY FAILED TO ACTIVE, AND HAD TO PULL THE E BRAKE. THE CAR HAS HAD A SOFTWARE UPDATE FOR THE TCM ON MY DCT TRANSMISSION BUT THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO NOT BE ABLE TO BE FIXED. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS, AND COULD CAUSE A MAJOR ACCIDENT OR DEATH.
MY CAR IS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH TRANSMISSION AND BRAKES & SUSPENSION. SOMETIMES FEELS LIKE THE CAR IS GOING TO STOP IF I DON'T PRESS THE GAS IS REALLY NOT A GOOD EXPERIENCE NOBODY LIKE TO DRIVE MY CAR THEY SAID THE SUSPENSION IS HORRIBLE AND NOT A GOOD EXPERIENCE ON TRANSMISSION.
ENGINE STALLS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHUDDERS SHIFTING FROM 2ND TO 3RD
ATTEMPTED TO BACK OUT OF PARKING SPACE REVERSE NO LONGER WORKED. PUSHED VEHICLE OUT OF PARKING AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE FORWARD TO GET CAR HOME. WHEN IN DRIVE IT IS JERKY AS GEARS SHIFTS. IT IS TO SLOW TO SHIFT, SLOW TO ENGAGE GEARS, ONCE SHIFT IS COMPLETE HESITATES LOW TO KEEP MOVING FORWARD THEN JERKS FORWARD VERY AGGRESSIVELY.
I WAS STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND UPON STEPPING ON THE GAS, I NOTICED THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. IT WAS MAKING A HUMMING SOUND SIMILAR TO IF IT WERE IN NEUTRAL. I CANNOT SEEM TO HAVE ANY POWER WHEN SHIFTING INTO SPORT MODE GETTING ONTO THE HIGHWAY AND DOES NOT ACCELERATE AT ALL. IT MAKES AN ODD NOISE. I FELT CAR HICCUP AT FIRST WHEN ACCELERATING. THIS COULD BE A DCT ISSUE AND COULD BE SAFETY ISSUE ALSO. CAR IS AT APPROX 77,000 MILES AT THIS TIME. SIMILAR ACCELERATION ISSUES REPORTED WITH THIS VEHICLE BY MYSELF PRIOR ALTHOUGH NOT THIS SEVERE AND SPORT MODE WAS WORKING FINE. *TR
WHEN CAR IS PUT INTO REVERSE THE CAR DOESN'T MOVE RPMS GO UP . HAD THIS ISSUE AROUND 9K MILES 16K MILES AND AT 21K MILES CAR HAS TO BE TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED FOR REVERSE TO WORK AGAIN. DURING FIRST STARTUP OF CAR IN GARAGE , ONCE TRYING TO REVERSE OUT OF PARKING LOT DEALER COULD NOT DUPLICATE BUT HAVE 2 DIFFERENT VIDEOS OF TIMES IT DID THIS.
VELOSTER HYUNDAI'S 7-SPEED DCT CONTAINS A DESIGN DEFECT IN THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM) THAT CAUSES, AMONG OTHER PROBLEMS, FAILURE TO SHIFT, STALLING, DELAYED ACCELERATION, OR LOSS OF POWER. 'THESE CONDITIONS ARE HAZARDOUS BECAUSE THEY SEVERELY AFFECT THE DRIVER'S ABILITY TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE DURING NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS AND PREVENT DRIVERS FROM ACCELERATING TO MAINTAIN SAFE SPEEDS IN TRAFFIC,'
I WAS SITTING IN A LINE OF CARS TO GET ON THE FREEWAY I MERGE INTO TRAFFIC TO HAVE THE CAR STUMBLE AND JUMP AND WONT GO, I WAS ALMOST REAR ENDED WHEN THE CAR DECIDED TO TAKE OFF LIKE A ROCKET AND I ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME, THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2016 AND HAS CONTINUED TO GET WORSE, THIS WAS THE FIRST INCIDENT ABOUT 6 MONTHS AFTER I GOT IT, I TOOK IT IN THE DEALER, THEY HAD A RECALL AND FIXED IT FOR A WHILE, THEN THIS SAME THING HAPPENS ALL THE TIME ON A DAILY BASIS, UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS ITS DANGEROUS BECAUSE YOU DONT KNOW WHAT THE CAR IS OR ISNT GOING TO DO, WILL IT GO WHEN I NEED IT TO ? OR STALL THATS THE HUGE QUESTION, I HAVE HAD IT TO THE DEALER 4 TIMES TO HAVE THEM TELL ME THEY ALL DRIVE LIKE THAT AND THEY DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIX IT OR WHAT TO DO, I HAVE GOTTEN RELUCTANT TO DRIVE IT ONLY WHEN I HAVE TO BECAUSE IM AFRAID IT WILL STALL OR LEAVE ME STRANDED, THIS MORNING IM COMING TO WORK AND STOPPED AT A SIGN, THEN WHEN IT WAS CLEAR I GO WELL NO I DONT BECAUSE THE CAR ACTED LIKE IT WAS STUCK, I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET AND IT FINALLY CAUGHT AND TOOK OFF, I AM A VERY CAUTIOUS DRIVER SO ALL OF THIS HAPPENING IM EXTREMELY CAREFUL IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, BUT SOMETHING HAS GOT TO BE DONE
UPON TURNING AND GOING OVER ANY KIND OF SIGNIFICANT BUMPS OR UNEVEN SURFACES THE VEHICLE FISH-TALES FROM THE BACK. I HAVE TRIED IT ON DIFFERENT STREETS TO ENSURE ITS THE SAME ISSUE AND THE ISSUE IS STILL PRESENT. I ALMOST LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE ON THE FREEWAY DUE TO A SMALL PATCH OF UNEVEN ROAD. I HAVE DRIVEN OTHER VEHICLES OVER THE SAME FREEWAY SPOT TO ENSURE IT WAST JUST MY VEHICLE BUT DID NOT GET THE SAME ISSUES AS I DO WITH MY VEHICLE. ALSO WHEN COMING TO A FULL AND COMPLETE STOP AND THEN PUTTING MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR TO MOVE THE VEHICLE FORWARD THE TRANSMISSION DOES NOT ENGAGE CORRECTLY, EITHER IT WAITS TO ENGAGE AFTER THE CAR REACHES 4,000 RPM OR JERKS SUDDENLY INTO GEAR BOTH OCCUR ARE ON A DAILY BASIS. ANOTHER KEY PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE HAPPENS WHEN TAKING MY FOOT FIRMLY OFF THE BRAKE AND PUSHING THE ACCELERATOR ON A HILL, PER THE MANUFACTURER THE VEHICLE IS SUPPOSE TO WAIT ABOUT 15-20 SECONDS ON A HILL TO ALLOW ME TIME TO STEP ON THE GAS TO GET THE VEHICLE MOVING AND PREVENT ROLLBACK INTO TRAFFIC OR OBSTACLES BEHIND ME HOWEVER IT IS EITHER NOT WORKING CORRECTLY OR DEFECTIVE.
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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