2003 Mercedes-Benz AMG E55

The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI) opened this investigation on January 23, 2012 as PE12-001 based on 20 consumer reports in model year (MY) 2003-2006 E55 AMG vehicles.Based on new reports in other E-Class vehicles, ODI upgraded the investigation to Engineering Analysis (EA) 13-003 on March 15, 2013, and expanded the scope to all E-Class vehicles through MY 2008.The complainants alleged a strong odor of gasoline fuel both inside and outside of their vehicle, particularly after refilling the fuel tank.Many of the complainants noted that the odor subsided or went away after driving some distance thereby lowering the fuel level in the tank.Other owners reported they would only fill the tank to about three quarters full to avoid the odor altogether.Some complainants alleged fuel leaked from the fuel filter/sender, located on the top of the fuel tank on the driver's side, and collected on top of the tank.There were also allegations that the fuel leaks were associated with an Emissions Recall Campaign (No. 2008020001) conducted by Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC (Mercedes) in 2008 on MY 2003-2006 E-Class and CLS-Class AMG models.The issue in the recall involved small cracks in the pressurized outlet fitting of the fuel filter/sender.AMG vehicles are high performance models that operate at higher fuel pressure and use a different fuel filter/sender and fuel pump than non-AMG models.Information on Recall No. 2008020001 is available from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) website at www.EPA.gov.ODI's investigation found various leak sources that are unrelated to the outlet fitting cited in the EPA recall campaign.Through interviews with complainants, field inspections of complaint vehicles, and the collection and laboratory analysis of failed parts, three identifiable leak sources were found.The component parts and areas of the leaks involve the On-Board Diagnostic fuel tank pressure sensor (located on top of the fuel filter/sender), the outlet of the centrally mounted fuel tank fuel filling limiter valve, and the top of the fuel pump. These areas of leakage are located at the top of the fuel tank in unpressurized parts of the fuel system. When the tank is full, fuel can slowly weep/seep from micro-cracks in these components and may collect in cavities on top of the filter/sender, pump, or tank.Contrary to complainant's allegations that fuel entered the inside of their vehicle under the rear seat bench, neither ODI nor Mercedes found a plausible way for this to occur.The fuel tank is located outside of the passenger compartment, attached to the underside of the vehicle.The service access ports for the fuel filter/sender (driver's side) and fuel pump (passenger's side) are located under the rear seat bench, covered by a steel plate, sealed and bolted to the vehicle floor.When technicians service the fuel filter/sender, which has a regularly scheduled 60,000 mile service interval, and/or the fuel pump, the work is performed from inside the vehicle by working through the access ports.By letter dated September 4, 2014, Mercedes has notified the agency that it will extend the original warranty coverage to 15 years and unlimited mileage on Covered Fuel Tank Components in E-Class vehicles in MY 2003-2009 and CLS-Class vehicles in MY 2006-2011.The covered fuel tank components for the warranty extension include the fuel tank, fuel filter/sender, fuel pump, and all related gaskets/seals and retention rings.ODI is closing this investigation based on the manufacturer's extend warranty of the affected fuel system components and in consideration that the nature of the leaks does not appear to present an un

The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI) opened this investigation based on 20 consumer reports.All of the vehicles were E55 AMG models and the complainants alleged fuel leaks or a strong odor of gasoline both inside and outside of their vehicle, particularly after refueling.Some complainants alleged that the leaks may be related to a 2008 Mercedes Benz emission recall (Campaign No. 2008020001) on the fuel filter module. This recall pertained to model years 2003-2006 E and CLS AMG models only.These AMG models use a different fuel pump and fuel filter module than the non-AMG E-class, however, they share other fuel system components, including the fuel tank.Since opening the investigation ODI has received an additional 350 reports relevant to this investigation.Of those reports, 116 reports are on the E55 AMG model.The remaining 234 reports are on other E-class models (i.e., E320, E350, E500, E550 and E63) which are now included in the scope of EA13-003.The investigation has been upgraded to Engineering Analysis, EA13-003, for further study.The ODI reports cited above can be reviewed at www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchNHTSAID under the identification (ODI) numbers cited on the following page.

The contact owns a 2003 Mercedes-Benz AMG E55. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, he smelled an abnormal gasoline odor inside of the vehicle. After a visual inspection of the rear seats, the contact observed gasoline pooling underneath the rear seats. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to TSB: 2008-020001. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but provided no assistance. The failure mileage was unknown.

NHTSA ID

11558414

Incident

Nov 15, 2023

The Alternator died after just over two years from being replaced by Mercedes part and labor causing a loss of electrical power and a loss of brake in the car.

NHTSA ID

11519041

Incident

Feb 3, 2023

WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS ON THE HIGHWAY ON A LONG ROAD TRIP, THERE WAS AN INCREASINGLY LARGE RATTLE WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER LOAD. EVENTUALLY THE RATTLE STOPPED. THEN WHEN I TRIED TO FILL UP THE CAR WITH GAS, IT LEAKED EVERYWHERE CAUSING A MASSIVE FIRE HAZARD. WHILE THIS WAS PUT UNDER EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR 15 YEARS BY MERCEDES BENZ, A 2003 MODEL IS OUT OF WARRANTY BY 3 YEARS. THIS IS COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE AS IT LEFT ME STRANDED IN RURAL MONTANA ON A ROAD TRIP (I'M FROM WA) AND POSED A MASSIVE FIRE HAZARD IN THE BLAZING HEAT OF SUMMER. I HAD TO TOW IT BACK ON A UHAUL TO PREVENT FURTHER DAMAGE TO THE CAR OR A POTENTIAL FIRE. EVEN THE MECHANICS AT A NEAR-ISH (200 MILES AWAY FROM THE MONTANA HIGHWAY I BROKE DOWN ON) WERE HESITANT TO EVEN MOVE THE CAR DUE TO FIRE HAZARD. THIS ISSUE SHOULD HAVE BEEN RECALLED FOR SAFETY REASONS OR BEEN GIVEN A MUCH LONGER EXTENDED WARRANTY. IN ADDITION TO THE SHAKE, NOW THE BRAKES WILL NOT LET GO WHEN I TRY PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. THIS WOULD NORMALLY BE A SEPARATE ISSUE, BUT IF IT CREATES A SPARK NEXT TO THE FUEL ISSUE, IT COULD MEAN THAT THE CAR IS QUITE LITERALLY A BOMB IF DRIVEN. THE WHOLE INTERIOR SMELLS LIKE FUEL AS WELL. MERCEDES SEEMS TO ADMIT THERE IS A PROBLEM BY COMPLYING WITH A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT AGAINST THE FUEL TANK AND ADDING THE WARRANTY BUT REFUSES TO DO A RECALL OR LONGER EXTENDED WARRANTY DUE TO GREED. THIS CAN CAUSE DANGEROUS SITUATIONS LIKE MY OWN AND EVEN WORSE ONES WHERE THE FUEL MAY IGNITE IN THE FUTURE.

NHTSA ID

11350309

Incident

Aug 17, 2020

Mileage

103,700 mi

MY VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING AN SRS WARNING LIGHT THAT THE DEALERSHIP, MERCEDES BENZ OF SOUTH BAY, DIAGNOSED AS BEING A PASSENGER SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR FAILURE. THEY ADVISED THAT THIS IS A COMMON FAILURE ON THESE MODELS, WHICH UPON SEARCHING THE INTERNET I BELIEVE IS THE CASE, AND QUOTED ME OVER $4,000 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS FAILURE TURNS OFF THE PASSENGER AIRBAG UNLESS THE REPAIR IS PERFORMED. MY UNDERSTANDING, HAVING PREVIOUSLY WORKING FOR ANOTHER OEM FOR 15 YEARS, WAS THAT AIRBAGS AND THEIR ASSOCIATED PARTS SHOULD LAST THE LIFE OF THE VEHICLE. IT APPEARS THAT THIS FAILURE IS SO COMMON WORLDWIDE THAT AFTERMARKET COMPANIES SELL "EMULATOR" KITS THAT TURN OFF THE LIGHT AND MAKE THE AIRBAG FUNCTIONAL FOR APPROXIMATELY $100. I BELIEVE THIS IS A DESIGN FAILURE OF A CRUCIAL SAFETY COMPONENT AND SHOULD REPLACED BY THE MANUFACTURER AT NO COST TO CONSUMERS.

NHTSA ID

11309947

Incident

Jan 25, 2019

Mileage

96,000 mi

WHAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN A CLASSIFIED AS A TOTAL RECALL TURNED INTO AN EXTENDED WARRANTY, AND AS A RESULT I HAVE LOST $1700. AFTER A BATTLE WITH THE NHTSA, BACK IN 2015 MERCEDES SETTLED TO DO A RETROACTIVE EXTENDED WARRANTY ON CERTAIN 2003-2011 VEHICLES DUE TO HOW MANY PROBLEMS AND SAFETY CONCERNS THERE WERE WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM. UNKNOWN TO ME, NOT RECEIVING ANY LETTERS ABOUT THE ISSUE SINCE PURCHASE, MY CAR WAS OUT OF THE WARRANTY PERIOD BY 3 MONTHS WHEN I GOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I HAD THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT READ BY A REPUTABLE GAS-STATION SHOP, AND THEY FOUND AN EVAP LEAK. THIS WAS NO NORMAL HOSE LEAK/GAS CAP OPEN EVAP LEAK. THEY ENDED UP FINDING A MASSIVE LEAK AT THE TOP FUEL PUMP! THERE WAS ACTUALLY DARK PLASTIC/SIGNS OF HIGH-HEAT INSIDE THE GAS TANK (ON THE PUMP). FIRE HAZARD?!? I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO MERCEDES OF WILMINGTON FOR A SECOND EVALUATION BECAUSE IT WAS A TIME BOMB. I WAS QUOTED $2100 TO FIX THE ISSUE FOR A NEW FUEL PUMP AND FUEL SENDER. I FOUGHT WITH MBUSA TO GET IT COVERED FOR TWO WEEKS, BUT MY CAR, AFTER 15 YEARS, WAS OUT OF THE WARRANTY PERIOD! THEY WOULDNT EVEN DROP THE COST DOWN TO $2000 EVEN WHEN I ASKED FOR SOME SORT OF GOOD WILL IF I GOT THE WORK DONE. I NEEDED MY CAR SO I HAD THE CAR TAKEN TO THE MOST REPUTABLE PRIVATE BENZ SHOP IN DELAWARE - "EURO TECH". I PURCHASED AN FCPEURO FUEL PUMP KIT AND HAD THEM INSTALL IT FOR LESS THAN THE DEALER WANTED. THIS SHOULD BE A TOTAL RECALL AND PEOPLE ON THE BIGGEST MB-FAN WEBSITE, MBWORLD.COM, ARE STILL POSTING WEEK AFTER WEEK WITH FUEL PUMP HORRORS! THIS IS WELL DOCUMENTED ALREADY BY YOU GUYS. I AM ALSO SENDING THIS EMAIL TO MBUSA. IF I DON'T HEAR BACK FROM MBUSA I WILL BE SEEKING LEGAL ADVICE. I HAVE SPENT $100 AT SHOP #1, $100 AT THE MB DEALER TO TELL ME 'NO', $1050 IN PARTS, AND $450 IN LABOR, FOR SOMETHING THAT SHOULD BE A RECALL.

NHTSA ID

11282213

Incident

Oct 10, 2019

Mileage

90,000 mi

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY RECALL

NHTSA ID

11208727

Incident

May 20, 2019

Mileage

113,000 mi

I JUST PURCHASED A USED 2003 MERCEDES-BENZ E55 AMG. UPON DRIVING IT HOME FROM THE STATE WHERE I PURCHASED IT, I SMELLED A STRONG FUEL SMELL. THIS IS STRONG INSIDE THE CABIN AND ALSO OUTSIDE THE CABIN, TO THE POINT THAT OTHERS AROUND THE CAR NOTED THE FUEL SMELL. I CAN SMELL IT WHILE DRIVING AND WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY. A GOOGLE SEARCH INDICATED THAT THERE WAS AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS YEARS AGO AND MBUSA OFFERED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY OF AN ADDITIONAL 5 YEARS BEYOND THE INITIAL 10 YEARS IN LIEU OF HAVING A COURT REQUIRE A FULL RECALL. AFTER, FURTHER INVESTIGATION ON MY PART, I LEARNED THAT IT IS NOT A MATTER OF IF BUT WHEN THIS WILL HAPPEN TO YOUR W211 VEHICLE. I CALLED MY LOCAL MERCEDES-BENZ DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR THE FUEL SYSTEM ON MY CAR ENDED LAST YEAR. I DO NOT KNOW WHY THE PREVIOUS OWNER(S) DID NOT TAKE CARE OF THIS PROBLEM. MAYBE THEY DID NOT KNOW ABOUT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN A FULL RECALL! THIS IS A HEALTH AND SAFETY HAZARD. I HAVE ASTHMA AND I AM NOW AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR DUE TO THE POTENTIAL HEALTH RISK INVOLVED. MBUSA SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO WIGGLE OUT OF FAULT ON A VERY POORLY DESIGNED FUEL SYSTEM BY OFFERING THE EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT ONLY GAVE OWNERS A FEW YEARS TO LEARN ABOUT IT AND ALSO GET THE WORK DONE.THE EXTENDED WARRANTY WAS FINALLY OFFERED BY MBUSA IN 2015, ONLY GIVING THE PREVIOUS OWNER OF MY CAR A FEW YEARS TO LEARN ABOUT THE WARRANTY AND GET THE WORK DONE. NOT TO MENTION THAT MY CAR WENT THROUGH SEVERAL OWNERS DURING THAT TIME FRAME. MEANING THAT THE OWNERS DID NOT OWN THE CAR LONG ENOUGH TO DISCOVER THE ISSUE AND FIND OUT ABOUT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THESE OWNERS NEVER RECEIVED A LETTER FROM MBUSA ABOUT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. AS A MATTER OF FACT, MY CAR WAS ACTUALLY IN ITALY WHEN THE EXTENDED WARRANTY WAS ISSUED. IT WAS LATER BROUGHT BACK TO THE US.

NHTSA ID

11204677

Incident

Apr 28, 2019

Mileage

100,000 mi

STRONG FUEL SMELL AFTER FILL UP. FUEL LEAKING ON TO TOP OF TANK AND VAPORS ENTERING CABIN

NHTSA ID

11170456

Incident

Jan 15, 2019

Mileage

83,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.