2008 Mercedes-Benz AMG E63

The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI) opened this investigation on January 23, 2012 as PE12-001 based on 20 consumer reports in model year (MY) 2003-2006 E55 AMG vehicles.Based on new reports in other E-Class vehicles, ODI upgraded the investigation to Engineering Analysis (EA) 13-003 on March 15, 2013, and expanded the scope to all E-Class vehicles through MY 2008.The complainants alleged a strong odor of gasoline fuel both inside and outside of their vehicle, particularly after refilling the fuel tank.Many of the complainants noted that the odor subsided or went away after driving some distance thereby lowering the fuel level in the tank.Other owners reported they would only fill the tank to about three quarters full to avoid the odor altogether.Some complainants alleged fuel leaked from the fuel filter/sender, located on the top of the fuel tank on the driver's side, and collected on top of the tank.There were also allegations that the fuel leaks were associated with an Emissions Recall Campaign (No. 2008020001) conducted by Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC (Mercedes) in 2008 on MY 2003-2006 E-Class and CLS-Class AMG models.The issue in the recall involved small cracks in the pressurized outlet fitting of the fuel filter/sender.AMG vehicles are high performance models that operate at higher fuel pressure and use a different fuel filter/sender and fuel pump than non-AMG models.Information on Recall No. 2008020001 is available from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) website at www.EPA.gov.ODI's investigation found various leak sources that are unrelated to the outlet fitting cited in the EPA recall campaign.Through interviews with complainants, field inspections of complaint vehicles, and the collection and laboratory analysis of failed parts, three identifiable leak sources were found.The component parts and areas of the leaks involve the On-Board Diagnostic fuel tank pressure sensor (located on top of the fuel filter/sender), the outlet of the centrally mounted fuel tank fuel filling limiter valve, and the top of the fuel pump. These areas of leakage are located at the top of the fuel tank in unpressurized parts of the fuel system. When the tank is full, fuel can slowly weep/seep from micro-cracks in these components and may collect in cavities on top of the filter/sender, pump, or tank.Contrary to complainant's allegations that fuel entered the inside of their vehicle under the rear seat bench, neither ODI nor Mercedes found a plausible way for this to occur.The fuel tank is located outside of the passenger compartment, attached to the underside of the vehicle.The service access ports for the fuel filter/sender (driver's side) and fuel pump (passenger's side) are located under the rear seat bench, covered by a steel plate, sealed and bolted to the vehicle floor.When technicians service the fuel filter/sender, which has a regularly scheduled 60,000 mile service interval, and/or the fuel pump, the work is performed from inside the vehicle by working through the access ports.By letter dated September 4, 2014, Mercedes has notified the agency that it will extend the original warranty coverage to 15 years and unlimited mileage on Covered Fuel Tank Components in E-Class vehicles in MY 2003-2009 and CLS-Class vehicles in MY 2006-2011.The covered fuel tank components for the warranty extension include the fuel tank, fuel filter/sender, fuel pump, and all related gaskets/seals and retention rings.ODI is closing this investigation based on the manufacturer's extend warranty of the affected fuel system components and in consideration that the nature of the leaks does not appear to present an un

UPON FILLING UP MY GAS TANK THERE IS A STRONG ODOR OF GASOLINE. THIS BECOMES REALLY BAD WHEN PARKED IN MY GARAGE. WE HAVE 2 SMALL CHILDREN SO WANT TO SOLVE THIS AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

NHTSA ID

11383247

Incident

Dec 13, 2020

LEAKY FUEL SENDING UNIT. I BROUGHT MY 2008 E63 AMG INTO MERCEDES OF BOSTON FOR TO REPAIR A LEAKING FUEL SENDING UNIT AROUND THE SPRING OF 2015. I REALIZE THIS WAS AN ISSUE FOR MANY E CLASS AND WAS BEING INVESTIGATED BY NHTSA. I SPECIFICALLY ASKED MY SERVICE ADVISOR IF MERCEDES WAS AT LEAST COVERING PART OF THE REPAIR. HE SAID THERE WAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE ON IT. I PAID $900 FOR THE REPAIR. I JUST FOUND OUT ON THE NHTSA THAT MERCEDES GAVE AN EXTENDED WARRANTY COVERAGE FOR FUEL RELATED PARTS FOR 15 YEARS AS OF SEPTEMBER 2014. MERCEDES IS DELIBERATELY HIDING THESE DETAILS FROM CONSUMERS. NO NOTIFICATIONS WAS EVER SENT. NO REFUNDS OFFERED.

NHTSA ID

10862519

Incident

May 13, 2015

Mileage

29,000 mi

MY VEHICLE WAS HIT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE THE IMPACT WAS TO THE SIDE FRONT QUARTER PANEL (FROM THE LEFT TIRE TO THE FRONT LEFT BUMPER). AS A RESULT OF THE IMPACT THE DRIVERS SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG AND THE DRIVERS SIDE PASSENGER DOOR AIRBAG DEPLOYED (NO PASSENGER). HOWEVER, THE DRIVERS DOOR AND THE DRIVERS SEAT BOOSTER AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY. RESULTING IN INJURY TO MY LEFT KNEE, LEFT HIP, LEFT RIBS, LEFT SHOULDER (SURGERY PENDING), LATERAL WHIPLASH AND CONCUSSION. I HAVE FILED A CLAIM WITH MBNA. IF THE PASSENGER DRIVER SIDE DOOR AIR BAG DEPLOYED WITH NO PASSENGER THEN THE DRIVERS DOOR AIRBAG MUST HAVE MALFUNCTIONED. THE ACCIDENT TOOK PLACE IN WEST LOS ANGELES AT THE INTERSECTION OF MANCHESTER AVE AND EMERSON. POLICE AND PARAMEDICS WERE CALLED AND I WAS TRANSPORTED TO THE LOCAL HOSPITAL. SURGERY IS PENDING FOR MY LEFT SHOULDER AND POSSIBLY LEFT KNEE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10679752

Incident

Dec 14, 2014

Mileage

105,000 mi

AFTER REFUELING MY CAR'S GAS TANK I BEGAN TO NOTICE SOME SORT OF GAS LEAKAGE. IT'S ESPECIALLY PRONOUNCED WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED IN THE GARAGE SINCE THE FUME IS UNMISTAKABLE. THERE IS APPARENTLY A FUEL LEAKAGE NEAR THE REAR TIRE (DRIVER'S SIDE). I'M CONCERNED THAT IF THERE WERE ANYTHING IN THE GARAGE THAT IS IGNITED IT WOULD CAUSE SOME TERRIBLE INCIDENT. AFTER I BROUGHT MY CAR IN FOR SERVICE I FOUND OUT THAT THE FUEL SENDER UNIT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED ALONG WITH A RELATED GASKET. THIS TYPE OF PROBLEM SHOULD NOT EXPERIENCE FAILURE AT THIS LOW MILEAGE. *TR

NHTSA ID

10668060

Incident

Nov 5, 2014

Mileage

25,650 mi

OWNED THE CAR FOR OVER 1 YEAR, NOTICED A PRONOUNCED SMELL OF GASOLINE AFTER FILLING UP AT A LOCAL SERVICE STATION. THOUGHT IT WAS A SPILL, SMELL GOT STRONGER OVER THE NEXT 10 MILES, PARKED THE CAR IN THE GARAGE, WHERE THE SMELL CONTINUED TO INCREASE TO THE POINT I COULD SMELL IT IN THE BEDROOMS ABOVE THE GARAGE. TOOK CAR TO LOCAL MERCEDES SPECIALIST WHO REMOVED THE INSPECTION PLATES UNDER THE REAR PASSENGER SEATS. DRIVER SIDE REVEALED A LARGE POOLING OF GASOLINE (APPROX 8 FL OZ) AROUND THE FUEL TANK APPARATUS. CAR IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE, AND REQUIRED $1100 TO REPLACE THE PART. *TR

NHTSA ID

10639304

Incident

Sep 24, 2014

Mileage

84,000 mi

ON JULY 30TH, 2014 I FUELED MY 2008 MERCEDES E63 AMG IN THE SAME MANNER AS I HAVE FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP. WHEN I PARKED MY VEHICLE IN THE GARAGE AND CLOSED THE DOOR I NOTICED A FAINT ODOR OF GASOLINE. I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST THE EXHAUST FUME BUILT UP IN THE ENCLOSED ENVIRONMENT. THE NEXT DAY WHEN I CHECKED, THERE WAS AN OVERWHELMING ODOR OF GASOLINE. FUMES WERE SO STRONG I COULD CLEARLY SMELL IT FROM MY FLOOR APARTMENT. LUCKILY MY NEIGHBOR WERE AWAY ON VACATION. THE SMELL OUTSIDE THE ENTRY WAY INTO THE GROWERS WAS SO STRONG IT STUNG MY EYES. KNOWING THE VOLATILITY GAS VAPORS I IMMEDIATELY OPENED THE GROWERS DOOR. WHEN I LOOKED UNDER THE REAR WHEEL ARCH OF THE DRIVER SIDE I SAW A PUDDLE ODD GASOLINE AND INTERMITTENT DROPS OF GASOLINE COMING DOWN FROM THE FUEL TANK AREA. THE GASOLINE DID NOT STOP LEAKING UNTIL I DRIVE IT TO ABOUT 3/4 FULL. IT TOOK 2 WEEKS FOR THE SMELL OF GASOLINE TO DISSIPATE FROM THE INTERIOR. I AM AWARE OF THE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT AGAINST MERCEDES FOR THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM. *TR

NHTSA ID

10627375

Incident

Jul 30, 2014

Mileage

28,500 mi

I PURCHASED A 2008 E63 MERCEDES BENZ IN DECEMBER 2013. SINCE THE DATE OF PURCHASE I HAVE NOTICED A STRONG ODOR AND SMELL OF GASOLINE UPON FUELING THE AUTOMOBILE(BOTH INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE). THIS ODOR PROGRESSIVELY GOT STRONGER UNTIL I WAS UNABLE TO CLOSE MY GARAGE DUE TO THE FUMES AND THE FEAR FOR MY SAFETY. I TOOK THE CAR TO A MERCEDES BENZ DEALER (LUCKILY) TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT PRIOR TO A ROAD TRIP ON 7/2/2014 AND IT WAS DETERMINED THERE WAS A LEAK IN THE FUEL TANK AND SENDING UNIT (S). THE TECHNICIANS AT THE MERCEDES BENZ DEALERSHIP INDICATED TO ME THAT THE VEHICLE WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND OPERATE. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THIS PARTICULAR ISSUE IS COMMON TO MY PARTICULAR VEHICLE MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR (A RECALL OR CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT HAS BEEN DONE AGAINST MB FOR THIS PROBLEM). I HAD THE REPAIRS DONE AT MERCEDES BENZ BUT WAS CHARGED FOR THE REPAIRS. I SEEK TO RECOVER THE REPAIR COSTS ASSOCIATED WITH THIS INCIDENCE. PLEASE CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY AS I NEED GUIDANCE AND INFORMATION REGARDING THIS SITUATION. *TR

NHTSA ID

10610614

Incident

Jul 2, 2014

Mileage

75,132 mi

FILLED THE VEHICLE UP WITH GAS LAST NIGHT 5/14/13 AND AFTER LEAVING WORK TODAY NOTICED AN EXTREME ODOR OF GASOLINE IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT, AND ALSO A VERY STRONG ODOR OF GAS AROUND THE VEHICLE EXTERIORS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10512271

Incident

May 15, 2013

Mileage

45,257 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

The part numbers listed in the chart below should no longer be installed, and any existing stock must be returned to your facing PDC. The deadline for all dealer returns is no later than Thursday, May 14, 2026. After May 14th, returns of these parts will no longer be accepted. These parts should be returned via ZSR Special Return, using item category SCM Authorized Part Return. Please include a copy of this NCU as your authorization to return these parts. This procedure will not affect your return allowance. All returned parts will be replaced in accordance with the chart provided below.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system