2013 Mercedes-Benz AMG ML63

MBUSA CLAIM #24526507 - 2013 MB AMG ML63 Engine Signed - my vehicle is not drivable due to random sudden engine stalling at highway speeds, electronic failures, gear-shifting lockouts, hazard alert/radar failures, and distronic system crashes. i have spent over $37,000 out-of-pocket at authorized manufacturer service centers, and recurring check engine lights have required multiple flat-bed tows. yet to date, zero safety recalls have been accurately addressed and fixed by the franchise service centers. instead, i have been charged for unnecessary repairs, marked-up parts, and inflated labor rates. subsequent to purchasing, i have driven less than 29,000 miles, yet have been repeatedly pressured by management to trade in the vehicle at a low-ball price, $12,000. upon reviewing a restored franchise multi-point inspection video, original service invoices, vehicle history report, and five safety recalls issued for this vehicle class, i have cause to allege required recall work was systematically not performed. It continues to stall on highway for 3 years and the inspection video explicitly captures active trouble codes fscu07 and p1ccf displayed on shop terminal screen. an independent service center reported active codes b210d00, p008700, p008a00, confirming failures in the fuel pump and injector system, oil-soaked engine wiring harness, failed camshaft sensors and solenoids, and active water pooling and rust in the wheel well; meaning the vehicle presents an immediate physical crash hazard to myself and all surrounding highway traffic.furthermore, the manufacturer has failed to deploy an independent safety investigator under open mbusa claim 24526507, on 9.25.2026. instead, an escalation manager called that night and said, due to age of the vehicle and its out-of-warranty status, neither MBUSA nor NHTSA would be interested or inclined to follow up on these safety complaints, telling me that these severe recall non-compliance issues are strictly dealership matters.

NHTSA ID

11769741

Incident

Oct 6, 2026

On December 6, 2025 I purchased a used 2013 Mercedes-Benz ML63 AMG from Jaguar Land Rover Willow Grove (Piazza Auto Group) in Pennsylvania. The delivery documentation for the vehicle included a written service commitment stating: “Replace air compressor for suspension system.” On January 23, 2026 at approximately 6:30 PM, while operating the vehicle at highway speed on the [XXX] in [XXX] , the vehicle experienced a sudden cooling system malfunction. An “Engine Overheat – Shut Off Engine” warning appeared on the instrument cluster and steam began emitting from the engine compartment. Because the failure occurred while traveling at highway speed, the driver was forced to execute an emergency maneuver across traffic lanes in order to reach the shoulder safely. The vehicle became disabled and required towing. The vehicle was transported to a Mercedes-Benz dealership for inspection. Initial repairs involved replacement of the coolant reservoir and hose assembly. Within several days the vehicle again displayed a low coolant warning and was returned for further inspection. At that time the radiator was found to contain a prior non-OEM epoxy repair and the radiator required replacement due to leakage. During a separate independent inspection, the air suspension compressor was observed to be mounted using plastic zip-tie fasteners rather than mechanical mounting hardware. The compressor is part of the vehicle’s AIRMATIC suspension system and is subject to vibration, pressure cycling, and heat during normal operation. Improper mounting of this component could allow the compressor assembly to move or detach during operation and may damage associated air lines or electrical connections. Because the air suspension system affects ride height and vehicle stability, this condition may present a safety risk during vehicle operation. Photographs and video documentation of the compressor mounting condition are available for inspection upon request. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.

NHTSA ID

11723746

Incident

Jan 23, 2026

I was driving from Florida to my home in Washington, DC on September 4th, 2023 on I-95. Somewhere in South Carolina, a message appeared on my display that said the blind spot assistant was disabled. Soon thereafter, my turn signals quit functioning. At first chance, I pulled over and turned the car off hoping it was some kind of computer reset. That worked but only for an hour or so. I made it home ok but not having turn signals was very dangerous and very concerning. I took the car to a local DC Mercedes mechanic who ran a diagnostic but nothing came up because the systems were functioning at the time. He took the car for a drive and they stopped working for him. He said take it to a dealer. I have an appointment for next week. I also have searched for this problem on social and it is definitely a problem with other owners. The part is nearly $700 and it is a big job to pull the steering wheel and replace this. I think this is a serious flaw and consumers should not be burdened with non-working turn signals. I think it might be a design flaw in their switch. Please look into this if you think as I do. Thank you.

NHTSA ID

11547283

Incident

Sep 4, 2023

THE BRAKES ON MY BRAND NEW 2013 MERCEDES BENZ ML 63 AMG SCREETCHES/SQUEALS WHEN SOFT BRAKING TO A STOP. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE MB DEALER IS WESTMINSTER, CO THAT THIS IS NORMAL AND I NEED TO BRAKE HARD IN ORDER TO STOP THE NOISE. THIS AWFUL NOISE DID NOT HAPPEN WHEN I FIRST STARTED DRIVING IT A FEW WEEKS AGO. IT STARTED ONLY RECENTLY AND IT IS GETTING LOUDER AND LOUDER WHEN COMING TO A STOP. THIS COULD BE A POTENTIAL DEFECT WAITING FOR A DISASTER. THIS SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING TO A CAR THAT IS BRAND NEW AND COSTS OVER $100,000. *TR..UPDATED 01/30/13 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE. THE BRAKE NOISE IS APPARENTLY NORMAL FOR AMG BRAKES. THIS IS NOT A POTENTIAL DEFECT MATTER. UPDATED 2/4/2013 *JS

NHTSA ID

10492373

Incident

Jan 1, 2013

Mileage

700 mi

Complaint Repeat workshop visit for vehicle vibration while braking from 60MPH. NOTE: Although the symptom is similar to a tire or wheel vibration, it is usually readily noticeable that it is distinctly different if it happens at all times or only while braking. Cause Although the cause of the vibration is most likely due to excessive lateral runout on the rotor or hub/wheel bearing, the system as a whole needs to be checked for other possible contributors. 1. Prior collision damage. 2. Excessive vehicle sitting times without rotating components. 3. Wheel bearing/hub lateral runout. 4. Wheel mating interface has been overtightened (did not follow WIS torque procedures). 5. Mating interfaces have been excessively modified (painted, gouged, bent, etc...). Remedy Read through the entire attached worksheet prior to performing. After performing, please review the final page and perform work accordingly. NOTE: This document is not pre‑authorization or otherwise dealing with warranty. This is intended for diagnostic purposes only. If there are any questions on how to proceed OR The work sheet has been performed and the vehicle has returned with the same concern. Please perform the measurements as seen in the worksheet again and open a TIPS case to the Body, Chassis, and Entertainment team.

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Note: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, once diagnosis is completed, select the damage code depending on the component part that is causing the issue. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10‑P‑067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some scenarios are normal and some are induced by driving style like those listed below: • Driving style such as two footed driving where the pad might be in constant contact with the rotor. • Brake pressure and application style (stop‑and‑go traffic with consistent light brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). This can cause the brake pads to glaze and have a smooth/glassy surface which can induce noise. • When ambient temperatures rise during summer peak and during cooling and cold winter months. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3‑4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re‑assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and Molykote as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston‑side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture "Adhesive and Paste Application Area". 4. Be sure to remove both brown paper backing sides of the adhesive film, it is double sided adhesive film. 5. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate where pistons contact the back of the pad, you may gently scrape off and re‑apply a new adhesive or Molykote. Must not apply the Molykote on top of the adhesive. 6. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture "Chamfering Technique". 7. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture "Adhesive and Paste Application Area". 8. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper /carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston‑side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture "Chamfering Technique". 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment "Rear Pad Grease Area") between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off

Complaint During part of the steering movement, it feels heavier or more difficult to steer in the same spot every time. OR Rattling, humming, dry sliding/gravel noise from the electric steering system when steering (see attachment). Complaint does not impact the ability to safely steer or control the vehicle. Cause Ball screw drive (KGT) of electric steering damaged by: 1. External force due to: ‑ Hitting the curb/posts with the front wheels. ‑ Driving over obstacles (e.g. pothole/ threshold/ speed bump/ gully) at an inappropriate speed. 2. Corrosion/ water ingress through a damaged boot (see attachment). ‑ Cracks (1) ‑ High pressure cleaner (2) ‑ Animal bite (3) See various examples listed in the attachments for examples of outside influence. Remedy Remove boot clamps closest to steering gear housing on both left and right (as seen in "Steering Rack Boot Clamp Location"). Pull back boot and inspect for rust, broken end stops, water, or any other anomalies. Replace electric steering. Note: Steering gears replaced due to outside influence or damage must not be claimed under warranty!

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).