2005 Mercedes-Benz E350

Mercedes-Benz USA (MBUSA) has reported a high number of warranty claims for air bag warning lamp illumination due to a diagnostic fault code 9103 or 9123 indicating a high resistance in the driver's frontal air bag firing circuit.MBUSA's testing and evaluation have shown that this condition is the result of a faulty connector (specifically, improper wire crimp) but that it will not prevent proper deployment of the driver's frontal air bag.The faulty connector can cause the air bag circuit resistance levels to exceed the threshold that illuminates the air bag warning lamp, but they do not exceed a higher limit at which proper deployment of the air bag may no longer occur.The agency believes that further expenditure of agency resources does not appear to be warranted at this time.The closing of this investigation does not constitute a finding by NHTSA that no safety-related defect exists.The agency will monitor the issue and reserves the right to take future action if warranted by the circumstances.During the investigation, ODI learned that MBUSA will initiate a warranty extension program to address the faulty connectors in subject model year 2005 and 2006 E-Class and other MBUSA model/model year vehicles.This action will extend the warranty coverage for this issue to 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first.MBUSA will notify all affected vehicle owners of this action.A bulletin describing this program is available in the investigative file.

HI, I WAS DRIVING NORMALY ON A ROAD, NO WARNING, JUST BRAKE LIGHT POPS UP TO REDUCE POWER. PEDAL WAS EMPTY AND STEERING GOT HARD NO UPSHIFT. I HIT A CURB AND CRACKED MY BUMPER. ALL BRAKES ARE NEW. WHEN I LOOKED ON LINE, I SAW SOME PEOPLE DEVELOPED A DEVICE THAT RESETS THE ABS MUDUAL TO 100%. THEY SAID MERCEDES PUT A TIMER IN THE SYSTEM THAT RUNS OUT AND MAKE YOU CHANGE STUFF? THIS DEVICE I JUST BOUGHT TO USE SO I CAN USE MY CAR. I'M AN AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN AND THIS SCRAED THE HELL OUT OF ME ON A DARK NIGHT IN OHIO. I ENED UP TOWING MY CAR TO MY HOUSE 60 MILES AWAY. VERY ANGERY WITH MB.

NHTSA ID

11394931

Incident

Jan 30, 2021

Mileage

260,000 mi

THE CAR WILL SOMETIMES THINK THERE IS SOMEONE RIDING IN THE PASSENGER SEAT WHEN NO ONE IS THERE. IT CAUSES THE SEATBELT LIGHT AND THE WARNING BEEPS TO OCCUR. ITS A SAFETY HAZARD BECAUSE ITS A DISTRACTION WHILE DRIVING AND IT WOULD SET OFF THE AIRBAGS FOR THAT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE IF ANYTHING IS TO HAPPEN.

NHTSA ID

11388718

Incident

Oct 23, 2020

Mileage

192,000 mi

THE STEERING WHEEL ADJUSTMENT DOESN'T GO UP. IT DOESN'T WORK STATIONARY OR IN MOTION.

NHTSA ID

11384079

Incident

Sep 28, 2020

Mileage

183,000 mi

EIS MODULE AND KEY FAILED WHILE ON FREEWAY, CAUSING CAR TO LOSE ALL GAUGES RADIO AND ENDING WITH NOT BEING ABLE TO START VEHICLE ON SIDE OF FREEWAY. NOW THIS IS GOING TO COST ME 1300 DOLLARS.. CAR HAS BEEN GREATLY TAKEN CARE OF AND WELL MAINTAINED. NO REASON THAT THIS SHOULD HAPPEN. I COULD OF WRECKED BC THE TURN SIGNALS STOPPED WORKING AS WELL IN THE FAST LANE WITH NO LEFT SHOULDER TO PULL OVER TO. DEADLY

NHTSA ID

11354666

Incident

Sep 5, 2020

Mileage

136,000 mi

MY VEHICLE FILLS WITH THE SMELL OF GASOLINE SO BADLY THAT IT MAKES ME PHYSICALLY ILL. I HAVE TO DRIVE IT WITH ALL THE WINDOWS OPEN TO TRY TO TOLERATE THE SMELL AND EVEN THEN, THE OVERWHELMING STENCH OF GASOLINE IS PALATABLE ENOUGH TO TASTE, CAUSE HEADACHES, AND NAUSEA. THIS STARTED A COUPLE MONTHS AGO WITH A SLIGHT SMELL AND HAS GOTTEN STEADILY WORSE. IN THE MIDST OF THE "STAY AT HOME" ORDERS I LEFT IT AND DROVE A DIFFERENT VEHICLE. IN THIS TIME I DID SOME ONLINE RESEARCH AND WAS APPALLED TO LEARN THAT MERCEDES IS FULLY AWARE OF THIS ISSUE. THEY EXTENDED A WARRANTY PERIOD OF 15 YEARS TO OWNERS BUT DID NOT CONSIDER IT A SAFETY ISSUE AND SEND THE INFORMATION TO VEHICLE OWNERS SO THAT THEY COULD HAVE THE SYSTEMS CHECKED. I CALLED MERCEDES TO LEARN THAT MY WARRANTY PERIOD ENDED IN JANUARY OF THIS YEAR. I FEEL THAT MERCEDES HAS KNOWLEDGE OF THIS ISSUE AND THAT IT SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER A LIFETIME WARRANTY. THESE VEHICLES ARE ON THE ROAD FOR MANY YEARS AND CAUSING UNSAFE HEALTH SITUATIONS...I HAVE CHILDREN THAT RIDE IN MY CAR! THEY CANNOT TOLERATE THE FUMES. MY FINAL CONTACT WITH MERCEDES WAS TODAY..THEY ARE VERY SORRY BUT REFUSE TO CORRECT THE WELL DOCUMENTED ISSUE WITH MY FUEL SYSTEM. *TR

NHTSA ID

11328968

Incident

Jun 15, 2020

BRAKE DASH WARNING LIGHT COMES ON INTERMITTENTLY. I HAVE HAD BRAKES CHECKED, NOT A PROBLEM WITH PADS OR SENSORS. THE BRAKE DASH INDICATOR WILL ILLUMINATE FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THEN GO OUT AND NOT COME ON AGAIN FOR SEVERAL DAYS OR WEEKS. *TR

NHTSA ID

11326224

Incident

Jan 4, 2020

Mileage

85,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MERCEDES BENZ E350. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V918000 (VISIBILITY) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. A DEALER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

NHTSA ID

11323436

Incident

Feb 1, 2020

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MERCEDES-BENZ E250. WHILE DRIVING 50 MPH, THE BRAKES FAILED TO OPERATE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE COASTED UNTIL IT CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE, AND AN UNKNOWN WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CARLTON MOTORCARS INC. (2446 LAURENS RD, GREENVILLE, SC 29607, (864) 213-8000) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SENSOTRONIC BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM NEEDED TO BE REPROGRAMMED, WHICH WAS NOT THE ORIGINAL MERCEDES-BENZ PART. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

NHTSA ID

11139670

Incident

Jul 1, 2018

Mileage

130,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.