Recalls, owner-reported complaints, investigations and safety data
Data refreshed
Our database contains 11 NHTSA owner-reported complaints for the 2005 Mercedes-Benz S 500, most frequently naming the electrical, exterior lighting and interior & seats categories. 58 manufacturer communications are on file.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
When owners filed reports about this model year
| Month | Complaints filed | Cumulative |
|---|---|---|
| Oct 2007 | 1 | 1 |
| May 2008 | 1 | 2 |
| Nov 2011 | 1 | 3 |
| Apr 2012 | 1 | 4 |
| Jan 2015 | 1 | 5 |
| Jun 2015 | 2 | 7 |
| Sep 2015 | 1 | 8 |
| Dec 2016 | 1 | 9 |
| Jan 2019 | 1 | 10 |
| Mar 2019 | 1 | 11 |
Complaints grouped by the component NHTSA recorded
Percentages are of component mentions. A single complaint can name more than one component, so these do not sum to the total complaint count.
No recalls in our database for this model year
That does not guarantee a specific vehicle is unaffected — recalls are issued against VINs, and new campaigns are announced regularly. Check a VIN on NHTSA.gov.
Reports submitted to NHTSA, shown in the owner's own words
WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WENT BLACK WE WERE UNABLE TO SEE OUR SPEED MILEAGE GAS GAUGE ODOMETER . IT WENT OFF AND ON FOR A PERIOD OF TIME . UNTIL IT WAS TO DANGEROUS TO CONTINUE TO DRIVE.
ELECTRONIC DASH INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WENT BLACK AND THE SPEEDOMETER COULD NOT BE SEEN AND ALL OTHER DRIVER INFORMATION ON THE REMAINING GAUGES WERE ALSO NOT VISIBLE. THE DOOR LOCKS WOULD NOT OPERATE ,THE TRUNK WOULD NOT OPEN AND THE SEANT WOULD NOT MOVE IN ANY DIRECTION. I WAS DRIVING THE 118 FREEWAY IN CA . I WAS DOING 65 MPH WHEN THE INCIDENT OCCURED. I HAD TO GET OFF THE FREEWAY AND DRIVE HOME ON SURFACE STREETS. WAY TOO DANGEROUS TO CONTINUE ON THE FREEWAY. THE CAR HAS APPROXIMATELY 99000 MILES AND HAD NO OTHER PROBLEMS.
WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH MY INSTRUMENT PANEL WENT BLACK. I COULD NOT DETERMINE MY SPEED, TIME OF DAY FUEL USAGE, MILES TRAVELED, OR SIGNAL LIGHTS. I DID NOT BUY THE VEHICLE FROM A MERCEDES DEALER. I CALLED A DEALER ABOUT A RECALL. HE STATED THAT THERE WAS A RECALL BUT IT HAD EXPIRED. I UNDERSTAND A RECALL EXPIRING, BUT IT SEEMS THAT MERCEDES BENZ WOULD SUPPORT THEIR PRODUCT NO MATTER WHEN THE DEFECT OCCURRED. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT COULD HAVE CAUSED RUNNING OUT OF FUEL WITHOUT BEING ABLE TO DETECT IT AND NO WAY OF BEING AWARE OF THE SPEED OF THE VEHICLE. THE SIGNAL LIGHTS DON'T FUNCTION ON THE CLUSTER. I BELIEVE IT WAS A DEFECT THAT MERCEDES BENZ WAS AWARE OF AND THAT THEY SHOULD REPLACE THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AT NO COST TO ME. THE COST TO REPLACE THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IS OUTRAGEOUS FOR A COMPONENT THAT IS OBVIOUSLY DEFECTIVE. OWNERS SHOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DEFECTIVE COMPONENTS THAT ARE OR HAVE BEEN A PART OF A RECALL. *TR
BLOWER MOTOR STOPPED WORKING AND REMAINED INTERMITTENT THROUGH JULY 2015. MERCEDEZ BENZ OF ST. LOUIS REPLACED BLOWER MOTOR AND REGULATOR/CONTROLLER. WITHIN DAYS OF GETTING CAR BACK THE BLOWER CONTINUED TO BE INTERMITTENT. IT WOULD WORK FOR DAYS OR WEEKS AND THEN STOP FOR 1-3 DAYS. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER WHEN IT WAS NOT WORKING AND THEY THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE SWITCHES IN THE DASH. STILL UNRESOLVED. IN ADDITION THE WIPERS WOULD STOP WORKING, THE RADIO WOULD STOP WORKING AND THE PASSENGER SEAT AIRBAG SENSOR WAS INTERMITTENT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MERCEDES BENZ S500. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SEIZED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INSTRUCTED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MERCEDES BENZ S500. WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FAILED AND CAUSED ALL THE GAUGES TO BECOME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 139,995.
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 MERCEDES S500. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TRUNK LID FAILED TO REMAINED OPEN AND ALMOST FELL ON THE PASSENGER HEAD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRUNK STRUTS FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 98,000.
TOOK MY CAR TO MERCEDES-BENZ OF PEMBROKE, PINES FLORIDA I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER LAST MO MERCEDES-BENZ OF PEMBROKE PINES FLORIDA FOR THEM TO CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER IN TRANSMISSION. SO, MONDAY I TOOK IT BACK IN AND TOLD THEM TO CHECK MY KEY DOOR LOCKS, BECAUSE THE DOOR WOULD OPEN. "NO KEY" BUT WOULD NOT LOCK BY HOLDING THE HANDLE. ALSO, TO CHECK THE TRANSMISSION WHICH WAS HARSH WHEN DOWN SHIFTING WHEN IT WAS COLD. I GOT A CALL THE NEXT DAY TELLING ME I NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION. I SAID I ONLY HAVE 52,000 MILES ON THE CAR AND I DON'T USE IT THAT MUCH. THE CAR COST $93,000.00 THIS SHOULD NOT BE. SOMETHING IS WRONG AT THAT DEALER, AND THEY WON'T LISTEN TO ME, THE SERVICE MGR WON'T EVEN RETURN MY CALL LONG STORY SHORT, BUT THE BILL WAS $9,300.00 I THINK I GOT RIPPED OFF. THANK YOU
A bulletin sent by a manufacturer to its dealers. Not a recall, and repairs are not necessarily free.
POWER TRAIN
Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).
VISIBILITY/WIPER
Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304
POWER TRAIN
Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).
Manufacturers file copies of the bulletins they send to dealers with NHTSA. These often describe diagnostic or repair procedures for a known condition. They are not recalls: repairs described in a bulletin are usually only free if the vehicle is still under warranty or the manufacturer has extended coverage.
Complaint and recall counts across every year of this model
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers. Older model years have had longer for reports to accumulate.