2003 Mercedes-Benz SL55

THE SUBJECT S-CLASS VEHICLES CONTAIN A COMPRESSED AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT USES AIR STRUTS ON EACH OF THE FOUR WHEELS IN LIEU OF TRADITIONAL SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.THESE AIR STRUTS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE AND CONTROL RIDE HEIGHT.IN THE EVENT OF THE LOSS OF AIR FROM THE SYSTEM, AN ALERT WILL FLASH ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WARNING THE DRIVER TO EITHER DRIVE CAREFULLY OR TO STOP THE VEHICLE.THE VEHICLE RIDE HEIGHT CAN BE REDUCED BY AS MUCH AS 105 MM BELOW NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT BEFORE THE FULL LOAD OF THE VEHICLE FOR THAT WHEEL COMES TO REST ON A STEEL ROD, WITH A RUBBER STOP ON THE END, LOCATED IN THE SHOCK ABSORBER.THIS REST-STOP CONDITION IS DESIGNED SUCH THAT THERE IS NO IMPACT ON VEHICLE CONTROL.MERCEDES-BENZ (MBUSA) SUPPLIED VIDEO SHOWING A VEHICLE IN THIS CONDITION OPERATING UNDER SEVERAL DIFFERENT SITUATIONS INCLUDING EVASIVE MANEUVERS DEMONSTRATING THE ABILITY OF THE VEHICLE TO BE CONTROLLED EFFECTIVELY WITH A RIDE HEIGHT REDUCED TO THE MINIMUM.ONLY THOSE COMPLAINTS TO ODI AND MBUSA THAT ALLEGED A STEERING INTERFERENCE DURING A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT CONDITION WERE COUNTED IN THIS RESUME FAILURE REPORT.SOME COMPLAINTS ALLEGED THAT WITH A REDUCED RIDE HEIGHT AND A STOP NOW WARNING MESSAGE THERE WAS A RUBBING NOISE WHEN TURNING, BUT THE ABILITY TO STEER THE VEHICLE WAS NOT COMPROMISED.A SAMPLING OF WARRANTY CLAIMS SUBMITTED BY MBUSA DID NOT REVEAL ANY INDICATING A LOSS OF CONTROL DUE TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE.THERE WAS ONE CRASH REPORTED BY MBUSA TO ODI BUT THE INFORMATION AVAILABLE INDICATED THAT IT RELATED TO SUSPENSION SYSTEMS AND IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO VERIFY THAT THE INCIDENT WAS RELATED TO AN AIRMATIC SYSTEM FAILURE. FURTHER USE OF AGENCY RESOURCES IN THIS MATTER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE WARRANTED.THE AGENCY WILL CONTINUE TO MONITOR COMPLAINTS AND OTHER INFORMATION RELATING TO THE ALLEGED DEFECT IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES AND WILL TAKE FURTHER ACTION IN THE FUTURE IF WARRANTED.THIS PRELIMINARY EVALUATION IS CLOSED.

The battery control module (known as the BCM or BNS) failed, triggering a fire. The incident occurred while the vehicle was parked in a garage and had not been operated for several weeks. The fire consumed the module, insulation on wiring connected to and close to the module, part of the trunk lining material, and burned through a total of five hydraulic lines (retractable roof hydraulics). It appears that the trunk seal limited air to the point that the fire was self extinguished. This is the only thing that saved the attached garage and house. The vehicle valued at $30,000 was determined to be a total loss due to the extensive repairs required to restore it to an operating condition. I have since joined a Facebook group "Mercedes BNS/BCM Fires" that has nearly 1000 members and found that this is a common issue with the Mercedes R230 model and fires have occurred dozens if not hundreds of times. We have determined that the module has undergone numerous changes, but there is no confirmation that any are safe. Mercedes refuses to provide guidance or solutions to this issue and apparently has no regard for the safety of current owners. I have retained the failed module, wiring, hydraulic lines, and burned portion of the trunk lining. It is available for inspection or analysis. I am a mechanical engineer with over 35 years experience in the automotive and industrial areas.

NHTSA ID

11557042

Incident

Mar 15, 2023

It appears the BCM (Battery Control Module) caught fire and burned a significant portion of the trunk and associated wiring.

NHTSA ID

11519614

Incident

Apr 28, 2023

My car (the SL55 and all SL models) has a "Battery Control Module" (BCM) also referred to as the "Battery Stabilization Control Load Module" which shows signs of imminent failure which will lead to a meltdown or fire. I inspected the module after finding that this was a common problem with these cars online. This model of car has been documented to completely catch on fire, even when parked after driving. I have pictures of the burnt board inside my BCM. I am very concerned as it could literally burn my house down. The typical warning for this issue is a red colored warning on the dash LCD display, however I didn't have that warning as my unit is apparently still functioning even though it's compromised.

NHTSA ID

11519426

Incident

Apr 1, 2023

PLASTIC PIECE ON GEARSHIFT ASSEMBLY BROKE NOT ALLOWING CAR TO BE PLACED IN GEAR. IS APPARENTLY A PROBLEM WITH 1000'S OF THESE CARS BASED ON INTERNET SEARCH. CONTACTED MERCEDES AND THEY SAID NOT THEIR PROBLEM. THEY CHARGE $1300.00 TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THEY STATED TO SAVE MONEY ON THIS PART BEING REPLACED TO TAKE A MALLET AND FINISH BREAKING PIECE THEREBY RENDERING CHILD SAFETY FEATURE USELESS. APPARENTLY LOOKING AT THE INTERNET THIS IS WHAT 1000'S OF PEOPLE HAVE ALREADY DONE. HOW MERCEDES THINKS THIS IS A NOT A SAFETY CONCERN IS BEYOND ME. IT IS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION TO ALL CHILDREN AS THEY WILL BE ABLE TO PUT CAR INTO GEAR WITH NO SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. I CAN SEE MANY CHILDREN EVENTUALLY PUTTING THESE CARS IN GEAR AND GETTING HURT.

NHTSA ID

10759416

Incident

Aug 13, 2015

Mileage

33,416 mi

INTERNAL GAS TANK BAFFLE HAS COME LOOSE INSIDE THE GAS TANK. THIS CAUSES A CONSISTENT AND VERY ANNOYING RATTLING SOUND. *TR

NHTSA ID

10533348

Incident

Apr 24, 2013

Mileage

61,165 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MERCEDES BENZ SL55 AMG. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, HE COULD HEAR SOMETHING MOVING ABNORMALLY WITHIN THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THEY ADVISED HIM THAT HE NEEDED TO REPLACE THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 54,000.

NHTSA ID

10488988

Incident

Dec 13, 2012

Mileage

54,000 mi

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MERCEDES BENZ SL55. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED ON NOISE WAS NEAR THE BRAKE SYSTEM AND THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A MECHANIC FOR INSPECTION. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE SBC HYDRAULIC SYSTEM WAS INOPERABLE AND THERE WAS NO COMMUNICATION WITH THE PUMP MOTOR. NHTSA RECALL 04V296000, SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC WAS RELATED TO THE FAILURE; HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC ADVISED HIM TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AT HIS EXPENSE FOR $150. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,600.

NHTSA ID

10343932

Incident

Jul 16, 2010

Mileage

45,600 mi

DEFECTIVE FUEL TANK BAFFLES. FUEL TANK BAFFLE(S) COME LOOSE AND BOUNCE AROUND INSIDE TANK BANGING THE SIDES OF THE FUEL TANK. *TR

NHTSA ID

10289028

Incident

Oct 15, 2009

Mileage

23,285 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.