2007 Mercedes-Benz SL550

I purchased this vehicle in a private sale in September 2025. The battery Warning light was on and the radio was not working either. I had the vehicle inspected by the Mercedes dealer and was told the batteries were being drained because the BCM (Battery Control Module) I was told there was nothing they can do because Mercedes discontinued the replacement parts. So I started to investigate the BCM issue in this model and come to find out when they go bad the vehicles will get on fire, many owners around the world have posted the burned BCM & cars as well. I manage to take my BCM out and opened for inspection and is burned out, I was lucky the car did not catch fire. I have pictures. This should be a recall, anything that could ignite the vehicle should be a recall

NHTSA ID

11693184

Incident

Oct 7, 2025

The contact owns a 2007 Mercedes-Benz SL550. The contact stated while driving 45 MPH on a slightly bumpy road, the message "ABC System Malfunction” was displayed. The vehicle started shuddering significantly and lost traction and stability control. The contact veered to the side of the road. The contact was able to continue driving at slower speeds. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the rear suspension shocks and ABC system needed to be replaced. The dealer also diagnosed that other unknown repair needed to be completed. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 22V168000 (Exterior Lighting, Electronic Stability Control, Engine and Engine Cooling). The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was approximately 97,444.

NHTSA ID

11484085

Incident

Sep 5, 2022

Mileage

97,444 mi

THE BRAKES TOTALLY FAILED WITH LITTLE WARNING. IN MID-OCTOBER, 2018 DRIVING ABOUT 15 MPH MY BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON AND THEN WITHIN APPROXIMATELY 5 SECONDS ALARMS STARTED SOUNDING AND I TOTALLY LOST ALL BRAKING POWER. MERCEDES OF DENVER REPAIRED. ON DECEMBER 17 SAME EXACT THING HAPPENED AT AN EVEN SLOWER SPEED BUT THIS TIME THE LOSS OF BRAKES WAS INSTANTANEOUS. VERY CONCERNED WHAT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED HAD THIS HAPPENED AT HIGHER SPEED.

NHTSA ID

11162793

Incident

Dec 17, 2018

Mileage

75,083 mi

THE VEHICLES BRAKES STOPPED WORKING DUE TO THE SENSOTRONIC BRAKE CONTROL UNIT. I'M TOLD THAT THERE IS A LIMITED SET NUMBER OF HOW MANY ITERATIONS YOU CAN GET OUT OF THIS PART BEFORE IT STOPS WORKING.

NHTSA ID

11084326

Incident

Apr 6, 2018

Mileage

77,150 mi

THIS VEHICLE CAUGHT FIRE ON ITS OWN WHILE PARKED IN A LOCKED GARAGE. THE FIRE WAS IN THE TRUNK AND INVOLVED VARIOUS ELECTRICAL AND MECHANICAL COMPONENTS AND WIRING HARNESSES. THE CAR FILLED WITH DENSE SMOKE WHICH COATED EVERYTHING WITH THICK SOOT. THE SMOKED SEEPED INTO EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE CLOSED CONSOLE COMPARTMENT AND GLOVE COMPARTMENT. I BELIEVE THE FIRE ITSELF DID NOT SPREAD BECAUSE OF A LACK OF OXYGEN AS THE CAR WAS PARKED WITH TOP FOLDING METAL TOP UP AND THE WINDOWS CLOSED. THE FIRE OCCURRED ON FEB. 16, 2018, AND WAS NOT DISCOVERED UNTIL THE FOLLOWING DAY. THE CAR WAS NOT ECONOMICALLY REPAIRABLE, AND THE INSURANCE COMPANY PROVIDED A SETTLEMENT IN EXCHANGE FOR THE CAR, WHICH, I PRESUME, WAS SOLD AT A SALVAGE AUCTION. THIS HAS OCCURRED BEFORE. I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY TIMES. ON YOUTUBE, THERE IS A MERCEDES SL550 CAR THAT SUFFERED EXACTLY THE SAME FIRE. IT IS AT HTTPS://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/WATCH?V=WVT6ZEBJR3A. WHEN THE CAMERA IS AIMED AT THE TRUNK AREA AT 24:10 OR SO INTO THE VIDEO, THE DAMAGE IS PRECISELY WHAT HAPPENED TO MY CAR. THE CAR IN THIS VIDEO WAS NEWER THAN MINE, BUT THE SAME MODEL. ANOTHER YOUTUBE VIDEO OF A 2008 MERCEDES MCLAREN SLR FIRE IS AT HTTPS://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/WATCH?V=E90X636MNZQ. IT DOES NOT SHOW THE TRUNK DETAIL, BUT THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS WORKING IN THE VERY SAME AREA AS WHERE THE FIRE IN MY CAR OCCURRED AS WELL AS IN THE OTHER YOUTUBE VIDEO. THIS MCLAREN IS A VERY HIGH-END MERCEDES ROADSTER OF THE SAME GENRE OF THE SL550. I NOTED IN SOME FORUM THAT I CANNOT FIND ANOTHER INSTANCE THAT SOUNDED EXACTLY LIKE THIS.

NHTSA ID

11082147

Incident

Feb 16, 2018

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MERCEDES-BENZ SL550. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT EXPERIENCED CATASTROPHIC BRAKE FAILURE. THE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD WHEN DEPRESSED. THE CONTACT HAD TO COAST THE VEHICLE OFF THE ROAD AND APPLY EXTREME FORCE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP THE VEHICLE. AN EMERGENCY WARNING INDICATOR FLASHED AND VARIOUS OTHER WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE POWER STEERING BECAME DISABLED WHEN THE FAILURE OCCURRED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS AND DISABLED THE ALARM SYSTEM FROM THE OWNER'S MANUAL. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO THE DEALER (MERCEDES-BENZ OF CATONSVILLE, 6631 BALTIMORE NATIONAL PIKE, CATONSVILLE, MD 21228, (410) 788-7744) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WAS A SENSOTRONIC BRAKE CONTROL (SBC) FAILURE AND THAT THE SBC CONTROL PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE DEALER WAS WAITING FOR THE MANUFACTURER TO AUTHORIZE THE PART. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND INDICATED THAT THEY WOULD PROVIDE A FOLLOW UP RESPONSE WITHIN 48 HOURS. THE MANUFACTURER ISSUED 12 TSBS ON THE BRAKE SYSTEM AND INDICATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN A RECALL. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000.

NHTSA ID

11076437

Incident

Mar 5, 2018

Mileage

42,000 mi

COMPLETE FAILURE OF THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER... FUEL GAUGE / ODOMETER / SPEED / TACHOMETER / TURNING SIGNALS / TEMPERATURE

NHTSA ID

11035483

Incident

Oct 8, 2017

Mileage

19,000 mi

2007 MERCEDES BENZ SL 550. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO REACH OUT TO DEALERSHIPS TO REPAIR VEHICLE ENGINE FAILURE. *SMD THE SPARK PLUGS, VALVE, ENGINE, TRANSMISSION MOUNTS AND CAM PLUGS ON THE LEFT CYLINDER HEAD WERE ALL REPLACED. HOWEVER, TWO DAYS LATER, THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED THE SAME SHAKE AS BEFORE. AS THE CONSUMER WAS DRIVING HOME, THE VEHICLE MADE A POPPING NOISE AND LOST ALL POWER. SHE LATER DISCOVERED THE ENGINE HAD EXPLODED. THE CONSUMER STATED A CLASS ACTION SUIT WAS SENT TO HER HOME REGARDING AN ISSUE WITH SHAFT SPROCKETS AND IDLE GEAR. *JB

NHTSA ID

10838368

Incident

Feb 1, 2016

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Noises at the front axle when cornering or maneuvering (video files attached) Note: Save video files locally and play them with Windows Media Player. Cause Driving with summer tires in combination with low outside temperatures. At low outside temperatures or in wet conditions, a noise may be produced at the outer wheel on the front axle while maneuvering with sharp steering angles. Note: AMG vehicles with 4MATIC of model series 217 (without code 494) and model series 222 have a modified axle geometry compared with series production vehicles to provide more sporty handling. The problem cannot be remedied by changing the axle settings.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system • Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. • If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. • The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) • Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation• If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: • LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system • LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system