2008 Mercedes-Benz SL550

WHILE DRIVING AT 50MPH, AUDIBLE AND VISUAL WARNINGS OF BRAKE FAILURE. NO BRAKING AVAILABLE OTHER THAN TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT FOR ENGINE BRAKING.

NHTSA ID

11052492

Incident

Dec 4, 2017

Mileage

57,000 mi

THE SUBJECT CAR, A 2008 MERCDES BENZ SL550, THAT HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT AND IS STORED IN A GARAGE. THE CAR WAS STARTED AND DRIVEN OUT OF THE GARAGE ON TO THE STREET, APPROXIMATELY 50 YARDS LATER WHILE DRIVING ABOUT 20 MPH, THE BRAKES 100% FAILED AND THE POWER ASSISTED STEERING STOP WORKING. AFTER COASTING TO A STOP AND PLACING THE CAR IN PARK. THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. THE DASH BOARD FLASHED A STOP SIGN SYMBOL AND A MESSAGE THAT INCREASE PEDAL PRESSURE WOULD BE REQUIRED. THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED. AT FIRST THE BRAKES AND STEERING SEEM NORMAL BUT AFTER ABOUT 10 SECONDS, AGAIN THE BRAKES AND STEERING FAILED. AT THIS POINT A TOW TRUCK WAS CALLED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A LOCAL MECHANIC. THE CAR WAS INSPECTED AND THE FAILURE WAS REPEATED. THE SHOP INSPECTED THE CAR AND DIAGNOSED THE CAR WITH A COMPUTER. SEVERAL CODES WERE APPARENT. THE SHOP RECOMMENDED THAT THE BRAKE SYSTEM BE FLUSHED AND THE COMPUTER RESET. THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WAS INSPECTED AS WELL AS THE BATTERIES. THE CAR HAS BEEN RETURNED TO SERVICE TODAY. I AM CONCERNED THAT THE BRAKE SYSTEM SHOULD NOT BE DESIGNED IN A WAY THAT A COMPUTER FAILURE WOULD RENDER THE BRAKES USELESS AND FAIL 100%. IF THE BRAKES WERE TO FAIL AT HIGHER SPEEDS AND IN TRAFFIC, THERE COULD HAVE BEEN FATAL RESULTS. MY WIFE NO LONGER FEELS SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR.

NHTSA ID

10567227

Incident

Nov 25, 2013

Mileage

66,550 mi

DRIVER PLACED A PURSE BEHIND THE FRONT SEAT OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAS POWER SEATS WHICH OPERATE ON A MOTOR. THE STRAP FROM THE PURSE APPARENTLY CAME IN CONTACT WITH THE SEAT IN MOTION CAUSING SMOLDERING AND EVENTUALLY THE SEAT MOTOR TO BURN ITSELF OUT. A FIRE WAS AVOIDED DUE TO A FUSE CAUSING THE MOTOR TO STOP HOWEVER THE MOTOR WHILE IT WAS OPERATING AND PRIOR TO THE FUSE KICKING IN NEARLY CAUSED A FIRE. THE SEAT SHOULD BE EQUIPPED WITH A CONTACT MECHANISM ( SIMILAR TO THAT IN THE WINDOW AND ELEVATOR DOORS OR GARAGE DOORS WHICH CAUSES THE SEAT TO STOP UPON CONTACT. IF MAKEUP OR OTHER FLAMMABLE PRODUCTS HAD BEEN IN THE BAG, THERE SURELY WOULD HAVE BEEN A FIRE. *KB

NHTSA ID

10425661

Incident

Sep 14, 2011

Mileage

24,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 MERCEDES BENZ SL550. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AND WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE COMPUTER SYSTEM WAS REPAIRED. APPROXIMATELY TWO YEARS LATER, THE RECURRED WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION OR STOPPED. DURING THE RECURRENCES, THE VEHICLE WOULD RESTART AFTER STALLING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED BACK TO THE AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THEY WERE IN THE PROCESS OF DIAGNOSING THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ID

10414657

Incident

Mar 1, 2009

Complaint Clanking noise from the area of the speakers in the doors. Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. • If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. • If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Noises at the front axle when cornering or maneuvering (video files attached) Note: Save video files locally and play them with Windows Media Player. Cause Driving with summer tires in combination with low outside temperatures. At low outside temperatures or in wet conditions, a noise may be produced at the outer wheel on the front axle while maneuvering with sharp steering angles. Note: AMG vehicles with 4MATIC of model series 217 (without code 494) and model series 222 have a modified axle geometry compared with series production vehicles to provide more sporty handling. The problem cannot be remedied by changing the axle settings.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304