2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK230

IN ITS LETTER DATED OCTOBER 28, 2005, MERCEDES-BENZ USA STATED THAT IT WOULD CONDUCT A SAFETY RECALL TO REMEDY DEFECTIVE BRAKE LAMP ASSEMBLIES IN MODEL YEAR 1998 THROUGH 2004 MERCEDES BENZ SLK VEHICLES.THE BASE OF THE BRAKE LAMP SOCKET CAN BE SUBJECT TO THERMAL DEFORMATION OVER TIME.THIS DEFORMATION CAN CAUSE MOVEMENT IN THE SOCKET-TO-BULB CONNECTION, WHICH MAY LEAD TO A LOOSENING OF THE ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE SOCKET, AND FAILURE OF THE BULB TO ILLUMINATE.ALL REAR LAMP MODULES (WHICH CONTAIN BRAKE, TURN SIGNAL, TAIL AND BACKUP LAMPS) WILL BE REPLACED WITH REDESIGNED REAR LAMP MODULES WITH A MORE HEAT RESISTANT MATERIAL AND ENHANCED SOCKET HOLDER DESIGN TO WITHSTAND THE HEAT INSIDE THE REAR LAMP MODULE.SEE NHTSA RECALL NO. 05V505 FOR MORE INFORMATION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 MERCEDES-BENZ SLK230. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 75 MPH, THE ESC WARNING INDICATOR SUDDENLY ILLUMINATED AND THE ESC ACTIVATED. AS A RESULT, THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE BRAKE SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND THE VEHICLE TURNED TO THE RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 105,000.

NHTSA ID

11241028

Incident

Jul 31, 2019

Mileage

105,000 mi

THE CAR ENGAGES THE BRAKES ON IT'S OWN WHEN I'M DRIVING AT SPEEDS ABOVE 30MPH.

NHTSA ID

11208370

Incident

May 17, 2019

Mileage

60,000 mi

MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, WHEN I START UP MY VEHICLE AN INDICATOR FOR A LIGHT OUT APPEARS ON MY DASH. I HAVE BEEN PULLED OVER SEVERAL TIMES FOR A RIGHT REAR BRAKE LIGHT BEING OUT. I HAVE REPLACED THE BULB NUMEROUS TIMES. I WAS RECOMMENDED TO LOOK ON YOUR WEB SIGHT AND I SAW THAT A RECALL HAD BEEN ISSUED CAMPAIGN ID 05V505000 ON MY MAKE/MODEL FOR THIS PROBLEM. HOWEVER WHEN I PUT IN MY VIN NUMBER IT PRODUCED ZERO RECALLS. HOW DO I KNOW IF THIS VEHICLE HAS EVER HAD THE RECALL ISSUE CORRECTED? ALSO, WHAT I CAN DO TO GET THE ISSUE RECTIFIED?

NHTSA ID

11150316

Incident

Oct 13, 2018

Mileage

126,731 mi

HE ENGINE DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING IN TRAFFIC. I MANAGED TO COAST TO A CORNER AND GET OFF THE MAIN STREET, THERE WAS NO WARNING.I HAD TO LEAVE THIS CAR FOR ONE DAY TO FIND IT TOWED BY POLICE , AND HAD TO CALL AND GET IT THE NEXT DAY PAYED 300$ AND GET IT TOWED AGAIN TO A MECANIC PAYED 85$ AND 100$ FOR CHECKING. THE MECANIC TOLD ME IT LOOK LIKE IT HAVE BIG PROBLEM, I DICEDED TO SEE A PROFITIONEL AND SO I HAD TO PAY AN OTHER TOWING FEE OF 80$ AND AN OTHER 110$ FOR CHECKING TO FIND OUT THAT THE HALL ENGINE JUST DAMAGED AND TOLD ME THAT I NEED A NEW ONE THAT WILL COST ME 3500$.

NHTSA ID

11140508

Incident

Oct 2, 2018

Mileage

9 mi

THE MERCEDES BENZ SLK 230 2001 MODEL BRAKES RANDOMLY WITH THE FRONT TIRES LEFT OR RIGHT OR BOTH, ENGINE PERFORMANCE GOES DOWN TO SUPER SLOW FOR A FRACTION OF A SECOND. THE CAR TURNS TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT AND SLOWS DOWN ABRUPTLY AND ONLY DUE TO MY FAST REACTION I AM ABLE TO AVOID TRAFFIC ACCIDENTS ! THIS CAN HAPPEN AT ANY TIME AND ANY SPEED AND ANY PLACE. THE LAST TIME AT ABOUT 1MPH ON A PARKING LOT, BEFORE AT ABOUT 75MPH ON THE INTERSTATE !

NHTSA ID

11065704

Incident

Jan 29, 2018

Mileage

101,375 mi

MY VEHICLE WOULD WOULD SUDDENLY COME TO AN ABRUPT STOP WITHOUT APPLYING THE BRAKES. IT WOULD DO THIS AT ANY SPEED. IT WAS HAPPENING EVERYDAY. WE HAD TO STOP DRIVING IT. WE TOWED IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY TOLD US THE YAW SENSOR WAS BAD. THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ON THE INTERNET. IT IS DANGEROUS AND COULD CAUSE A DEADLY ACCIDENT. THE COST TO REPAIR WAS $1000.

NHTSA ID

10914998

Incident

Aug 3, 2016

Mileage

80,000 mi

THE RIGHT WHEEL STARTED AUTOMATICALLY BRAKING, WITHOUT ME DOING ANYTHING, WHEN I WAS TRAVELLING AT 55 MPH. IT ALMOST CAUSED TO RUN OFF THE ROAD. I FELT FORTUNATE THAT THERE WERE NOT OTHER CARS AROUND ME, THEN THE BAS/ESP LIGHT WILL CAME ON. IT FELT EXTREMELY DANGEROUS!

NHTSA ID

10899405

Incident

Aug 29, 2016

Mileage

50,000 mi

VEHICLE TYPE IS 2001 MERCEDES BENZ SLK230 (R170 MODEL). THE INSIDE REAR VIEW MIRROR IS AN ELECTROCHROMIC SELF DIMMING MIRROR THAT HAS NO MANUAL BACKUP. THE MIRRORS FAIL LOSING THEIR ABILITY TO PROVIDE DIMMING AGAINST REAR APPROACHING HEADLIGHTS CAUSING THE DRIVER TO EITHER BE BLINDED OR TO HAVE TO TURN THE MIRROR UP AND HAVE NO REAR VIEW CAPABILITY. I KNOW OF MANY DOCUMENTED CASES OF THESE MIRRORS FAILING INCLUDING MY OWN. SOME FAIL BY JUST QUITTING WORKING WHILE OTHERS LEAK THE INTERNAL FLUID. *TR

NHTSA ID

10567829

Incident

Feb 26, 2014

Mileage

160,259 mi

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).