2017 Smart Fortwo

NHTSA received a petition on or about July 18, 2022, requesting that Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 141 be applied to all electric and hybrid vehicles operating in the United States. The petition can be reviewed at NHTSA.gov under ODI Number 11486072. FMVSS 141 establishes performance requirements for pedestrian alert sounds for motor vehicles. The standard applies to hybrid and electric vehicles that have a gross vehicle weight rating of 4,536 KG or less or are defined as low-speed vehicles. The standard became fully applicable to all such vehicles manufactured on or after March 1, 2021.On January 27, 2023, NHTSA opened Defect Petition (DP) 22-005 to evaluate the subject matter described in the petition. On June 24, 2023 and as supplemented on June 25, 2023, the petitioner notified NHTSA he was withdrawing his petition. The petitioner indicated that, based on his review of data, there is no justification for asserting potential benefits that could be derived from actions sought by my petition. Based on the petitioner's withdrawal, DP22-005 is closed. Closure of this DP does not represent a determination by NHTSA regarding the subject matter of the petition.

The Power Electronics Control Unit (ECM), Part No. A453-900-72-11, and the DC-to-DC converter have both failed, rendering this all-electric vehicle completely inoperable. There is no backup propulsion system. The DC-to-DC converter powers safety-critical systems including lighting, turn signals, and hazard flashers — its failure could cause loss of safety-critical functions while driving. Total repair estimate is $20,560.43. The manufacturer Mercedes-Benz USA denied warranty coverage using a Canadian warranty document for the wrong vehicle model. MBUSA has shut down the Smart warranty portal at the dealer level and their website returns no warranty data for Smart vehicles despite active warranty obligations. Smart exited the US market and MBUSA appears to have abandoned warranty support while warranties remain active.

NHTSA ID

11730040

Incident

Nov 20, 2025

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Driver Side front wheel / maybe steering rack / etc. makes loud grinding / rubbing sound when making turn only when the weather's hot and humid and when the car has been running for about 20 min How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? Noise / rubbing / grinding sound comes from the driver side front wheels or Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Yes, Service center reproduced the sound and went two levels deep to try and ascertain the origin but to no avail. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? YES Has been inspected multiple times by different mechanics costing hundreds of dollars with still no diagnostic or remedy. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? No lamps or warning lights prior to problem which was first heard / discovered around 2019

NHTSA ID

11661091

Incident

Jul 4, 2019

The car won't charge over 20% due probably a faulty manufacturer part of N83 high voltage control box. This could cause very serious electrical/battery issues if the high voltage box is faulty.

NHTSA ID

11535062

Incident

Jun 28, 2023

SEAT BELTS DO NOT RETRACT. THERE WERE COUPLE OF TIMES WHILE IN TRANSIT ON CITY ROAD, I HAD TO APPLY BRAKE SUDDENLY AND SEAT BELT FAIL TO ENGAGE TO HOLD THE PASSENGER BACK . ALL THE TIME , BOTH SEAT BELTS DO NOT RETRACT TO THEIR HOME POSITION WHEN NOT IN USE AND CAR IS STOPPED AND PARKED, THIS CAUSED DENTS TO THE CAR'S BODY AND FRAME AROUND THE DOOR WHEN WE CLOSE THE DOORS. I REPORTED TO THE LOCAL MERCEDES DEALER SEPTEMBER 2018. IN DECEMBER, THEY COULD ONLY REPLACE THE DRIVER SIDE SEAT BELT. THE PASSENGER SIDE'S BELT HAS BEEN CLAIMED TO BE BACKED ORDER TILL NOW. I HAVE CALLED NUMEROUS TIMES TO FOLLOW UP FOR THE REPAIR AND I AM STILL WAITING FOR OVER 6 MONTHS FOR THIS FAULTY SEAT BELT TO BE REPAIRED. I DON'T FEEL SAFE TO DRIVE MY CAR. I LEASE THIS NEW CAR SINCE OCTOBER 2017 AND THE SAFETY ISSUE HAPPENED ONLY WITHIN A YEAR.

NHTSA ID

11190596

Incident

Sep 1, 2018

Mileage

2,900 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SMART FOR TWO. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN REVERSE, THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE REAR EXTERIOR LIGHTING AND REAR WIPER WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO GARAGE ISLA VERDE LLC (LOCATED AT AVE, BALDORIOTY DE CASTRO KM 10.3, PR 00979, (787) 620-1313), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 2,334. **TR CONSUMER COMMENT IN SPANISH. UPDATED 10/30/18*JB

NHTSA ID

11127959

Incident

Jun 21, 2018

Mileage

2,334 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SMART FORTWO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE DID NOT FULLY CHARGE TO THE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED MILEAGE RANGE. IN ADDITION, IN COLD WEATHER CONDITIONS, THE MILEAGE OF THE VEHICLE DROPPED APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. MERCEDES-BENZ OF BOSTON (259 MCGRATH HWY, SOMERVILLE, MA) AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE CONTACTED IN REGARDS TO DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE OPERATED AS INTENDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1,000.

NHTSA ID

11072673

Incident

Nov 1, 2017

Mileage

1,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SMART FORTWO. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V447000 (STEERING); HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. MERCEDES-BENZ OF SOUTH BAY (3311 PACIFIC COAST HWY, TORRENCE, CA) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

NHTSA ID

11032875

Incident

Sep 22, 2017

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint The following symptoms with electrical range: • Displayed electrical range is implausible for charging process (SOC) . • Displayed electrical range reduces rapidly after short period of driving. • High-voltage battery can no longer charge. Cause The voltage difference (maximum cell voltage minus minimum cell voltage) within the high-voltage battery is too great (> 100 mV). In an extreme case, no individual cell voltages are displayed in the Battery Management System (BMS) anymore (signal not available). Remedy Replace high-voltage battery. Note on analysis for transportability: The transportability assessment should be conducted promptly, as the high self-discharge level means that an assessment at a later stage may no longer be possible. Conduct the transportability assessment using the diagnostic system, to do so, select menu item "Special procedures" -> see also WISnet AR54.10-P-1140SRE, operation step 2. The procedure, if no individual cell voltages can be read out (signal not available - SNA), is also described in the diagnosis procedure.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.