2007 Toyota Prius Problems

I CANT SEE THE ROAD. Who is in charge of allowing these new bright LED headlights? They make it very hard to see where I’m driving when they’re eye level with my car!! So all I see is a bunch of LED lights coming straight at me, which is very unacceptable because now I can’t see the road. Making it a very obvious safety concern which is weird when I thought the government is supposed to be preventing stuff like this from happening. What the heck

The lights spontaneously turned off while driving on a cloudy night on an unlit section of interstate. While slowing the car down, it went onto gravel, semi-circled around and flipped over onto the lower median. No air bag deployed. No protection from shoulder seat belt. Head hit steering wheel, and I briefly lost consciousness. Tests showed skull and cervical fractures. The car was "totaled." I was planning a move. Now I consider myself to be lucky to be alive. I am rewriting because of previous a NHTSA computer malfunction changing a serious injury to "NO" injury on the questionnaire.

The brake actuator failed. When the car was diagnosed by the Toyota dealership, they identified the problem as an internal leak within the brake actuator. Luckily, nobody has been hurt attempting to drive the car, but it is still being driven to get it from home to the repair shop so anything is possible. The first symptom I could link to this was in 2023, when the car would not accelerate via the gas pedal after the brakes were pressed during cruise control. Turning off the car and turning it back on fixed the problem. Afterwards, the red brake symbol was turned on. From that point on, the brake light would only shine sometimes. leading me to believe there must not have been something wrong with the car, since nothing else happened after that. 2024 is when the red brake light and ABS symbol both lit up. The only information that I could find in the manual was to take the Prius to the Toyota dealership. I could not find details on the problem. I continued to drive the car regardless because there seemed to be no problem. After letting the car sit for a few months in 2025, I began driving it again, and it was fine. A month later, I turned on my car and was met with a loud beep that did not end. This was my final sign to take it to get repaired. The car has exceeded 200,000 miles. This fix is $3,205.40 at the dealership. My 2007 Toyota Prius is valued between $2k to $4k. The repair would cost more than simply buying another Prius.

Check engine light came on with codes C 1256 & C 1300. Primary issue is Brake actuator failure. Toyota is ignoring this known and repeated issue and it may lead to a dangerous/ deadly situation if brakes go out while driving.

Combination meter often does not turn on when turning the car on. This means you cannot see a speedometer, any warning lights, fuel tank levels, or mileage. Also the trunk gets locked and is unable to open. Sometimes the car will not turn off. This has been happening on and off for over a year but has gotten increasingly worse. There are no warning signs. This can happen any time you turn on the car but might not always happen. It can also prevent you from turning off the car. When searching online, it seems this is a common problem with high mileage Priuses between 2005-2009 and so Toyota extended a warranty on it but did not tell all of the owners, most likely to get out of a recall.

When the 12-volt battery in this car dies, there is NO warning light to indicate the battery is dead or is running low. The driver is given no warning or indication prior to the car being disabled. Once the battery dies, the vehicle immediately decelerates, there is no acceleration, the braking system becomes mostly disabled, and the power steering is not functional. The car becomes disabled, while being driven, without warning. When this event happens, there is a high pitched screaching alarm, and the majority of the dash lights turn on. None of which indicate there is an issue with the 12-volt battery. The large red triangle light with the exclamation mark comes on, as well the lights indicating that there is a problem with the brakes. Additional dash lights also turn on during this dangerous event. The rear view monitor screen states that there is an issue with the transmission. The reality that a minor 12- volt battery is responsible for disabling a vehicle is extremely dangerous, especially since it happens when the car is being driven. This is a serious issue. Toyota must include an indicator light that warns the driver the battery is low prior to the car being being disabled. Please investigate this matter, as it seems to be a common problem, based on online research. My safety was in jeopardy due to the fact that I was driving the car on a main road, with moderate traffic, and lost control of the car as it became disabled. To get my car off of the road required the assistance of several good Samaritans who used their bodies to block traffic in order to get the car out of the flow of oncoming traffic. Fourteen days later, after the battery was replaced, and the car serviced/inspected, I drove the car 10 to 15 miles, wherein the car did the same thing. Per the dealership, the issue was not the 12- bolt battery. Thank you for your time and consideration. Kindly, Cynthia Becker 623-209-4290 [email protected]

Hatch release has melted, see NHTSA ID’s for example: 10511408, 10533059, 10504366, 10496197, 10448470, etc.

catalytic converter is easily accessible and there should be a recall to have a safety operation and stop all these cars from being sold in the market because there is a rise in many thefts of the catalytic converter due to it being very easily accusable without any guard in place to prevent thieves from getting to it to remove and sell for parts. Spray paint can be cleaned off and vin numbers can be sanded down. simply trying that will not work. i was unaware that it was stolen off of the vehicle until i drove it a little ways to where the vehicle was then burning and i could smell it catching on fire

Unknown I had just financed the vehicle 2-3 days prior.

Instrument panel cluster failure. Panel goes black while driving and lose power. Vehicle won’t start or shut off. My vehicle was getting serviced at the dealership and they couldn’t start the vehicle. I was told the instrument panel cluster was the problem. I contacted Toyota Customer Service, and was told they were aware of the issue. They had issued an extended warranty and sent out a letter to all owners this warranty has expired in 2016. If you purchased your vehicle after 2016 you would not have received any notice regarding this. While driving you can’t see you speed, your gear selection, fuel level, lights and no warning lights. The warning is that your vehicle won’t start or shut off.

The contact owns a 2007 Toyota Prius. The contact stated that while at a stop light, she attempted to drive however, the vehicle failed to exceed 25 MPH. The HC battery, ECU, and check engine warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, who informed the contact that the vehicle displayed DTC code: P3190 (Engine Failure). The vehicle was towed to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the hybrid battery was severely drained, and the mechanic retrieved DTC codes: P3000 and P0A80 for the hybrid battery pack. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was towed to another independent mechanic, who replaced the battery, but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was contacted, but no additional assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000. The contact stated the vehicle was actually overfilled with oil at the mechanic's shop that performed the oil change, so that is what caused the issues with my vehicle.

MY CAR HAS A CLUNKING/RATTLE SOUND WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS OR UNEVEN ROADS EVEN WITHOUT BRAKES SLIGHTLY ENGAGED. IT ALSO DOES THIS WHEN DRIVING OVER 60 MPH ON SMOOTH ROADS BUT IF I TURN WHEELS SLIGHTLY LEFT OR RIGHT THE SOUND STOPS AND WHEN I TURN THEM BACK STRAIGHT IT BEGINS AGAIN. IT IS SO BAD THAT YOU CAN FEEL IT ON YOUR FEET AND STRONGLY THRU THE STEERING COLUMN. ALSO THE FRONT TIRES WEAR HEAVILY ON THE INSIDE EDGE. IT FEELS LIKE STEERING COLUMN MAY BE LOOSE AT TIMES. ALSO THE HORN KEEPS BLOWING FUSES AND WHEN YOU PUT A NEW FUSE IN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WILL SHOCK YOU E EVERY TIME YOU TRY TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. AND THE OUTSIDE AIR TEMP WILL NOT READ TEMP. I HAD NEW TIRES PUT ON TO REPLACE OLD FRONT TIRES AND ROTATED ALL AND BALANCED AND JUST HAD NEW BRAKES PUT ON FROM DEALSHIP. RADIO RECEPTION IS HORRIBLE EVEN THOUGH OTHER VEHICLES IN SAME AREA GET GREAT RECEPTION. I LOVE THIS CAR BUT I DID BUY IT USED SO I AM NOT SURE IF ALL RECALLS HAVE BEEN FIXED OR IF THEY NEED FIXED AGAIN. IT SEEMS LIKE A LOT OF MECHANICS HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THEY ARE DOING.*DT CONSUMER STATED VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPAIRED.*JB

I keep replacing P1116 and it keeps coming back also I was driving up a hill when I lost power and the car wouldn't accelerate. It would turn on and go into gear but not go anywhere. I know it says my vin doesn't have recalls but why am I experiencing them

The contact owns a 2007 Toyota Prius. The contact stated that while at a stop light, she attempted to drive however, the vehicle failed to exceed 25 MPH. The HC battery, ECU, and check engine warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, who informed the contact that the vehicle displayed DTC code: P3190 (Engine Failure). The vehicle was towed to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the hybrid battery was severely drained, and the mechanic retrieved DTC codes: P3000 and P0A80 for the hybrid battery pack. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was towed to another independent mechanic, who replaced the battery, but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was contacted, but no additional assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000. The contact stated the vehicle was actually overfilled with oil at the mechanic's shop that performed the oil change, so that is what caused the issues with my vehicle.

The lights spontaneously turned off while driving on a cloudy night on an unlit section of interstate. While slowing the car down, it went onto gravel, semi-circled around and flipped over onto the lower median. No air bag deployed. No protection from shoulder seat belt. Head hit steering wheel, and I briefly lost consciousness. Tests showed skull and cervical fractures. The car was "totaled." I was planning a move. Now I consider myself to be lucky to be alive. I am rewriting because of previous a NHTSA computer malfunction changing a serious injury to "NO" injury on the questionnaire.

Both headlights failed, one earlier, then the second, on a cloudy night on an unlit, deserted rural stretch of interstate highway. Driver started slowing down from 60 mph, looking for a place to pull over. An accident resulted--only the defective car was involved. No airbag was deployed. The driver was injured. (Full recovery--months.) The car was totaled.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A PLASTIC PIECE FROM THE DOOR PREMATURELY MELTED FROM AN UNKNOWN LOCATION, WHICH MELTED INTO THE DOOR LATCH. THE FAILURE MADE IT EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO USE THE LATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE LIGHTING, I BELIEVE IS BASICALLY LED, HAS, OVER A PERIOD OF ,TIME, BECOME SO DIM THAT IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO READ WHEN NOT IN THE SHADE(OK AT NIGHT) THE DEALER SAID THAT THERE WAS A NOTICE, BUT ONLY IF THE DISPLAY HAD COMPLETELY OUT. I BELIEVE THAT A DIM DISPLAY (THAT CANNOT BE SEEN DURING NORMAL DRIVING)IS A REAL SAFETY PROBLEM. THIS IS A CONSTANT PROBLEM NOT A PARTICULAR DATE AND TIME. THE PHOTO ATTACHED IS THE DRIVER VIEW OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL DURING OPERATION. ALSO A PICTURE OF THE VIN PANEL. ...UPDATED 08/02/17 *BF *CN

ON NOVEMBER 14, 2020, MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAD A LOSS OF STEERING THE STEERING WHEEL WAS NO LONGER CONNECTED TO THE FRONT WHEELS OF THE CAR. PARKING ON A CITY STREET ATLANTIC TOYOTA DID NOT PERFORM THE RECALL ON MARCH 12,2013 FOR THE COT RECALL THIS IS WHAT CAUSED THE LOSS OF STEERING. THE CAR WAS REPAIRED AT A PRIVATE GARAGE FOR THE LOSS OF STEERING AND THE PART THAT FAILED WAS THE STEERING INTERMEDIATE EXTENSION SHAFT THE PART THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED UNDER THE COT RECALL DONE AT ATLANTIC TOYOTA. (THE SHAFT REPLACEMENT DEPENDS ON WHETHER THE BOLT HOLE HAS A 'COUNTERSINK', ACCORDING TO THE TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS ISSUED TO DEALERS, T-CP-C0T-A510-D. THE SHAFT THAT WAS REMOVED AND, IN MY POSSESSION, HAS A COUNTERSINK). HOW COULD THIS HAPPEN TOYOTA IDENTIFIED A DEFECTIVE PART AND ISSUED A RECALL I BROUGHT MY CAR TO A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP AND THE WORK WAS NOT DONE. WITH THE LOSS OF STEERING THERE IS A CONCERN ABOUT SAFETY AND CONFIDENCE IN THE VEHICLE, AND NOTHING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THAT. I AM SENDING THIS EMAIL TODAY BECAUSE WE KNOW THAT SOMETHING HAS GONE TERRIBLY WRONG. THE SYSTEM MEANT TO SAFEGUARD AGAINST FAULTY VEHICLES HAS FAILED, AND IT NEEDS TO BE FIXED.

WE NOTICED THE RED TRIANGLE LIGHT AND SO WE CHECKED THE ENGINE OIL. THE DIP STICK WAS DRY. I PUT OIL IN THE ENGINE AND THE RED TRIANGLE WENT AWAY. I KEPT AN EYE ON THE OIL LEVEL OCCASIONALLY I NEEDED TO PUT MORE OIL IN THE ENGINE. 3 MONTHS AFTER TAKING THE CAR FOR A REGULAR OIL CHANGE AT THE TOYOTA DEALER THE RED TRIANGLE CAME UP AGAIN AND THIS TIME I SPOKE TO THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THE ISSUE. THE RESPONSE WAS THAT IT WOULD BE EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR THE CAR AND THE BEST SOLUTION WAS TO BUY A NEW CAR. I WAS NEVER TOLD ABOUT THE 2011 TSB FOR EXCESS OIL CONSUMPTION THAT TOYOTA HAD ISSUED. TODAY, JULY 17TH, 2020,I CALLED THE DEALER TO ASK ABOUT THE TSB, AND I WAS TOLD THAT THE TSB HAS BEEN OUT FOR 10 YEARS SO I HAD HAD UNTIL 2017 TO QUALIFY. I DO NOT BELIEVE I EVER RECEIVED A LETTER NOTIFYING ME ABOUT THE ISSUE. HAD I RECEIVED THE NOTIFICATION I WOULD BEEN THE FIRST PERSON IN LINE AT THE DEALERSHIP. ALSO, MY STEERING WHEEL FEELS LIKE IT IS LOOSE, IF THE SPEED IS OVER 45 MPH IT FEELS UNSAFE, THE SLIPPERY SENSOR LIGHT COMES ON WHEN I AM TURNING THE WHEEL SLIGHTLY ON A DRY ROAD, AND THERE IS AN EXCESSIVE NOISE INSIDE THE CAR EVEN WITH THE WINDOWS CLOSED. THIS HAPPENS DURING HIGHWAY DRIVING. I AM ABOUT TO DONATE THE CAR SO THAT IT CAN BE USED FOR PARTS. I LOVE THE CAR NOW I KNOW TO CHECK WITH NHTSA WHEN I PURCHASE MY NEXT CAR.

I keep replacing P1116 and it keeps coming back also I was driving up a hill when I lost power and the car wouldn't accelerate. It would turn on and go into gear but not go anywhere. I know it says my vin doesn't have recalls but why am I experiencing them

Instrument panel cluster failure. Panel goes black while driving and lose power. Vehicle won’t start or shut off. My vehicle was getting serviced at the dealership and they couldn’t start the vehicle. I was told the instrument panel cluster was the problem. I contacted Toyota Customer Service, and was told they were aware of the issue. They had issued an extended warranty and sent out a letter to all owners this warranty has expired in 2016. If you purchased your vehicle after 2016 you would not have received any notice regarding this. While driving you can’t see you speed, your gear selection, fuel level, lights and no warning lights. The warning is that your vehicle won’t start or shut off.

2007 Toyota Prius touring edition WILL NOT TAKE ANY FUEL PROPERLY AND WILL OVERFILL AND "BURP" CAUSING GAS TO FLOW EXPLOSIVELY OUT OF THE FILLER NECK AND HOLE. Tank will not fill, at all, causing risk of running out of gas while on highway. FUEL GAUGE DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. FUEL TANK will not fill properly, if at all, overfills and burps causing fuel to blow out of the filler hole with force. THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD as gas can spill all over near the filler area and possibly catch fire. Stopping the filler hose will not help, as the tank refuses to take any gas, even when close to empty. People need to put gas in, not guess. The car will ONLY TAKE BARELY 2 gallons in winter without overflowing. THIS IS A LIFE SAFETY AND FIRE HAZARD AS THIS OVERFLOWING GAS AND REVERSE FUEL FLOW CAN IGNITE, or catch fire. THE BLADDER IN THE TANK STOPS WORKING AND WILL NOT ALLOW FUELING ANS SPITS FUEL BACK OUT OF THE FILLER NECK AND HOLE.

OUR DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING OUR 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS TO WORK IN THE DARK IN RUSH HOUR ON THE HIGHWAY, DRIVING STRAIGHT, AT HIGHWAY SPEED, IN LOS ANGELES, AND THE INSTRUMENT PANEL INSTANTLY BLACKED OUT, WITH THE CAR COMPLETELY DEAD AND HALTED. IT COULD NOT EVEN BE SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL! THE CAR STOPPED RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. SHE CALLED 911, AND A WRECKER WAS DISPATCHED TO LIFT THE CAR OFF THE FREEWAY. THANKFULLY SHE WAS NOT INJURED OR KILLED! I THEN RESEARCHED THE LIKELY CAUSE AND DIAGNOSED IT EXACTLY. IT WAS THE "HYBRID WATER PUMP" ALSO KNOWN AS THE "INVERTER PUMP," PART #G9020-47031. THAT PART WAS RECALLED IN 2012, NHTSA RECALL # 12V536000. I HAD IT TOWED TO A NEARBY TOYOTA DEALER, NORTH HOLLYWOOD TOYOTA, TO HAVE IT REPAIRED. THAT DEALER LOOKED UP THE VEHICLE'S RECORDS AND SAID THE RECALL HAD BEEN PERFORMED IN 2013. WAS IT REALLY? IF SO, THEN A RECALLED PART THAT CAUSES A COMPLETE, INSTANT BLACKOUT ON A PRIUS ALREADY FAILED AGAIN. THE RECEIPT FOR THE REPAIR IS ATTACHED, INCLUDING THE NHTSA RECALLED PART #. THE REPAIR COST $699.09 + TAX, AND CAUSED AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS INSTANT STOPPAGE OF THE VEHICLE ON A JAM-PACKED HIGHWAY. I E-MAILED TOYOTA USA CUSTOMER SERVICE TO APPEAL THE SITUATION, AND THEY SENT ME A REPLY AND ASKED THAT I CALL THEM. ON THE CALL, THEY CLAIMED THERE IS NO RECOURSE FOR ME TO PURSUE. I'M A 51 YEAR OLD U.S. ARMY OFFICER VETERAN AND HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED OR KNOWN OF ANYTHING THIS SUSPICIOUS AND DANGEROUS IN THE AUTOMOBILE SPACE. THANK YOU, [XXX] REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *CC *TR

The contact owns a 2007 Toyota Prius. The contact stated while driving at 60 MPH, the front windshield became foggy while driving at night. The contact stated that the defogger was operational; however, there was an extended period before the windshield was cleared. The contact stated that the vehicle was not taken to a dealer or independent mechanic to be diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated that a dealer informed him that the windshields were made of cheap material. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 90,000.

ONE HEADLIGHT ON MY CAR KEEPS SHUTTING OFF, WHILE THE OTHER IS FINE. I AM ABLE TO "FIX" THE ISSUE BY TURNING MY HEADLIGHTS OFF AND THEN TURNING THEM ON AGAIN. DEALERS INITIALLY TOLD ME IT WAS BECAUSE THE BULB BURNED OUT, BUT I REPLACED BOTH AT THE SAME TIME, AND IT'S ALWAYS THE DRIVER'S SIDE BULB THAT "BURNS OUT." UPON FURTHER REVIEW ON PUBLIC FORUMS, IT APPEARS THE BULB IS PERFECTLY FINE AND THERE'S SOME TYPE OF ELECTRICAL ISSUE/CONNECTION PROBLEM THAT CAUSES PROBLEMS WITH THE BULB. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS ON AND IN-MOTION ON ANY STREET.

MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS WILL NOT STAY IN GEAR OFF AN ON. IT WILL GO INTO REVERSE OR DRIVE FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN POP INTO NEUTRAL. THIS HAS HAPPENED 9 TIMES IN THE LAST 2 WEEKS AND ALWAYS ON A HOT DAY AFTER BEING PARKED AT WORK. I HAVE TO DRIVE HOME WHILE HOLDING THE SHIFT LEVER IN GEAR. SOMETIMES IF THIS HAPPENS AND I TURN OFF THE AIR CONDITIONING IT WILL STAY IN GEAR, BUT NOT ALWAYS. IS THIS A GEAR SHIFT LEVER PROBLEM? *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE VEHICLE WAS IN PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY AND ANOTHER VEHICLE BUMPED INTO IT CAUSING THE GEAR SHIFT TO MOVE INTO REVERSE. THE VEHICLE TRAVELED OVER AN 18 INCH SNOW BANK AND CRASHED INTO A TREE. THE FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS WERE DAMAGED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO THE DEALER. A REPRESENTATIVE FROM THE MANUFACTURER PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST AND FOUND THAT THE GEAR SHIFT BEING PLACED IN AND OUT OF PARK SEVERAL TIMES CAUSED THE GEARS TO SLIP INTO NEUTRAL AND THEN INTO REVERSE. THE CONTACT CONFIRMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS IN PARK. THE CONTACT WAS NOT OFFERED ANY ASSISTANCE WITH THE REPAIR. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 44,000.

The drivers seat belt receptacle spit out a spring and plastic part and it cannot buckle anymore.

The lights spontaneously turned off while driving on a cloudy night on an unlit section of interstate. While slowing the car down, it went onto gravel, semi-circled around and flipped over onto the lower median. No air bag deployed. No protection from shoulder seat belt. Head hit steering wheel, and I briefly lost consciousness. Tests showed skull and cervical fractures. The car was "totaled." I was planning a move. Now I consider myself to be lucky to be alive. I am rewriting because of previous a NHTSA computer malfunction changing a serious injury to "NO" injury on the questionnaire.

After an Interstate highway drive and when then discovering my tire had been punctured by a screw or other object, but with still enough air in the tire to drive to a tire repair facility, I drove to have the puncture repaired. On repairing the puncture of the 185/65R15 tire, the repairman observed a portion of the tire’s steel belt to be visible on the inside of the tire. An immediate replacement of the tire was recommended, but this facility did not have an identical tire to provide. The facility emailed me a picture of the protruding steel belt. This writer has twice reported the matter to the tire’s manufacturer, but still no response since the first report on 09/24/2024. No party other than the tire repair facility has inspected the tire. This writer has recognized no noticeable effect of the defect, but the repair facility stated it could cause a blowout at any time.

PURCHASED 4 TRAVELSTAR UN99 205/55R16 91V STEEL BELTED RADIAL TIRES PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED. IN LESS THAN 20 MILES OF DRIVING, NOTICED BULGE ON FRONT DRIVER OUTER SIDEWALL, DRIECTLY ABOVE THE VALVE STEM. NO DAMAGE TO RIM, NOTHING WAS RUN OVER OR HIT. SELLER OF TIRES WAS AUTOPLICITY REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING, CITING THAT A BULGE ON THE SIDEWALL USUALLY OCCURS DUE TO A POSSIBLE ROAD HAZARD, IMPROPER INFLATION, EXCESSIVE LOAD IMPACT, OR AN INSTALLERS ERROR AND IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE WARRANTY. THE SELLER DID NOT ASK FOR ANY PHOTOS PRIOR TO MAKING THIS DECISION. WE HAVECONTACTED AMAZON.COM, WHOM WAS THE DISTRIBUTOR FOR AUTOBLICITY. SHOULD THIS TIRE FAIL, THERE WOULD BE A LOSS OF CONTROL DUE TO ITS LOCATION OF THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE. THIS WOULD PUT BOTH THE DRIVER AND OTHER PERSONS IN THE AREA AT RISK. THIS BATCH OF TIRES NEEDS TO BE RECALLED.

Abs vsc brake light on

DRIVER REAR COIL SPRING BROKE. ONE END OF IT SEEMS TO HAVE A CHUNK BROKEN OFF. I HAVE THE COIL SPRING. I HAD THE DEALER REPLACE THE SPRING SO I DO HAVE REPAIR INVOICE. I NOTICED THE CAR SITTING LOW ON DRIVER'S REAR CORNER WHILE SITTING IN MY GARAGE. I HAVE AN IDENTICAL MODEL, A 2009 PRIUS, SITTING NEXT TO THIS AFFECTED CAR, (A 2007 PRIUS). THE GARAGE FLOOR IS A FLAT CONCRETE SLAB.

MUSTY/MOLDY SMELL COMING FROM AIR CONDITIONING. *TR