2005 Chevrolet Suburban Problems

This defect pertains to gear indicator on the instrument panel. During the daylight hours the light indicating the gear the car is in (park, neutral, drive, etc.) is impossible to read. At night you can just barely read the gear indicators. The dimness of the lights behind this gear indicator gauge is a safety hazard because you cannot tell what gear you are in during the day. It is an expensive repair because the instrument panel needs to be removed to fix the problem.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

The vehicle was idle for about 4 months. I took it to a carwash to clean the dust off. Upon returning (abt a 2 mile trip) the brakes failed and steam was coming out from under the hood. I opened the hood and brake fluid was sprayed all over the driver's side of the engine and wheel well. A brake line had rusted through and burst. Fortunately, I made it home carefully because I had noticed the brakes were soft.

ON 4/11/2020, WHILE TRAVELING NORTHBOUND ON N. MAIN STREET, FAYETTEVILLE, NC AND ACCELERATING FROM THE STOPLIGHT AT THE INTERSECTION OF CAMDEN ROAD, I WAS REQUIRED TO APPLY THE BRAKES FORCEFULLY AND SUDDENLY DUE TO THE ACTIONS OF ANOTHER MOTORIST. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER APPLYING THE BRAKES, I LOST ALL BRAKING POWER AND RESORTED TO UTILIZING THE MANUAL PARKING BRAKE TO BRING THE VEHICLE UNDER CONTROL AND DRIVE IT CAREFULLY BACK TO MY RESIDENCE. AT THE MOMENT OF FAILURE, THE DASHBOARD BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT (AKA, IDIOT LIGHT) ILLUMINATED AND A "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" MESSAGE APPEARED ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. THE BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT CONTINUED TO ILLUMINATE SPORADICALLY DURING THE TRIP BACK TO MY RESIDENCE WHEN TESTING THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR RESUMED FUNCTIONALITY. AFTER ARRIVING HOME, I PERFORMED A QUICK INSPECTION OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND FOUND THAT THE PORTION OF THE BRAKES LINES LOCATED ON THE OUTBOARD PORTION OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRAME RAIL HAD RUSTED AND PERFORATED NEAR THE ABS MODULE, CAUSING THE FAILURE ALONG WITH MASSIVE FLUID LOSS (SEE ATTACHED PICS). I PERFORMED A CURSORY INTERNET SEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT THE NHTSA HAS ALREADY PERFORMED AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS EXACT ISSUE AND THE INVESTIGATION WAS SUBSEQUENTLY CLOSED WITH NO RECALL ISSUED BY GM. OF NOTE, GM VEHICLES USE A MANUAL PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH LOCATED WITHIN THE BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE THAT ISOLATES THE DAMAGED CIRCUIT IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE AND ALSO ILLUMINATES THE DASHBOARD BRAKE LIGHT. THIS SYSTEM DID NOT OPERATE IN THIS INSTANCE AS EVIDENCED BY LOSING ALL BRAKING, AS OPPOSED TO REDUCED BRAKING, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE LIGHT NOT REMAINING ILLUMINATED. BASED ON THE APPEARANCE OF THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND INDICATION OF RUST IN SEVERAL SPOTS ON THE BODY (E.G, TAILGATE), I BELIEVE THIS TRUCK WAS OPERATED IN ONE OF THE RUST BELT STATES FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BY A PRIOR OWNER.

The contact owns a 2005 Chevrolet Suburban. The contact stated upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for tire replacement, he was informed that the entire chassis was severely corroded. The dealer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the manufacturer for assistance. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO USE THE REAR HATCH OF THE VEHICLE, THE REAR HATCH FAILED TO OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 136,210.

Air bag sensors went out making air bag inoperable.

THE WIRING FOR THE LIGHTERS, POWER PORTS AND COMPUTER LINK MELTED. IT'S ALL PART OF THE UNDER-DASH WIRING HARNESS.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

DRIVER SIDE SEAT HEATER RANDOMLY COMES ON AND GOES OFF. MAJORITY OF THE TIME THE HEATER STAYS ON CONSTANTLY AND BECOMES UNCOMFORTABLE. THIS HAPPENS MORE ESPECIALLY IN WET CONDITIONS AND WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO TURN THE HEATED SEAT OFF, THE CONTROLS WON'T WORK. THIS ISSUE HAPPENS WHEN THE SUV IS STARTED, CONTINUES WHILE IDLING AND WHILE DRIVING. SOME DAYS IT IS HOURS BEFORE IT WILL GO OFF. OTHER DAYS IT WILL NOT GO OFF. THE SCARY THING IS YOU CAN HEAR THE DASHBOARD CLICKING WHEN THE HEATER TURNS ON AND OFF, CONSTANTLY CYCLING THOUGH HIGH TO LOW, BACK OF SEAT TO BOTTOM OF THE SEAT. ADJUSTING THE SEAT IN ANY WAY DOES NOT HELP. I THINK THIS IS A CONCERN DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT TURNS OFF AND ON AND YOU CAN HEAR IT CYCLE THROUGH. IT'S ALSO A MAJOR CONCERN BECAUSE THE HEAT STAYS ON WITHOUT ANY WAY TO TURN IT OFF. THIS STARTED A WEEK AFTER I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE AND HAS CONTINUED SINCE OCTOBER 2016.

Speedometer stops working intermittently. This is a safety hazard as the operator cannot tell the speed that the vehicle is operating. It seems to occur randomly.

The speedometer issue started 1 year ago, the speedometer shows needle stuck on 0 or all the way down to right side. Now issues with the gas gauge and oil gauge are happening also Mechanic has checked on this and stated that replacement needed.

OIL PUMP OIL RINGS TO LEAD TO OIL PICKUP TUBE FAILED CAUSING DROP IN OIL PRESSURE. THIS HAPPENS WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE 2 HOURS PLUS.

FIRST THE TRANSMISSION FAILED RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 2 YEARS AGO. I HAD TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION THAT WASN'T CHEAP AROUND $3,500. THEN THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS STARTED WITH THE RIGHT SIDE LAST YEAR JUST HAD A TON OF PLAY IN IT MY MECHANIC FOUND IT WHEN LIFTING UP MY TRUCK FOR A TIRE ROTATION. THEN THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING JUST STARTED MAKING A LOAD ROARING NOISE BUT HAD NO PLAY IN IT AT ALL THAT I COULD FEEL WHEN CHECKING IT OUT. BOTH COST AROUND $250 A WHEEL TO REPLACE. NOW MY 5.3 LITER ENGINE IS HAVING A KNOCKING SOUND WHEN AT A STOP AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 30 MINUTES OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO I AM HEARING A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE COLD OR HOT. I HAVE 4 SMALL KIDS SO I NEED A VERY RELIABLE LARGE VEHICLE AND THIS IS SUBURBAN IS DRIVING ME AND MY WIFE CRAZY HAVING TO POOR MONEY IN THIS VEHICLE EVERY YEAR. I AM THE SOIL PROVIDER FOR MY FAMILY I CANT AFFORD PUTTING ALL MY MONEY INTO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS.

THE FUEL LINE THAT IS ON TOP OF THE GAS TANK ROTTED THROUGH. THE BRAKE AND TRANSMISSION LINES ROTTED AND LEAKED. THE CHASSIS IS ROTTING IN DIFFERENT PLACES I HAVE LESS THAN 77,000 MILES ON IT SINCE I BOUGHT NEW. I HAVE A 1969 MALIBU THAT I'VE HAD SINCE IT WAS NEW AND I KEEP IT OUTSIDE IN ALL KINDS OF WEATHER AND NOT ONE PART OF THE CHASSIS IS ROTTED. I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF STEEL THEY USE NOW TO BUILD THESE CARS AND TRUCKS, BUT IT SHOULD BE UNACCEPTABLE. I DON'T KNOW THE EXACT DATES THESE THINGS HAPPENED, BUT I DO HAVE ALL THE REPAIR BILLS FOR THEM. WHEN THE BRAKE LINE ROTTED THROUGH I WAS GOING TO THE STORE AND WHEN I CAME TO A YIELD SIGN THE BRAKE PEDAL WHET TO THE FLOOR. IT'S A GOOD THING IT HAPPENED THEN, BECAUSE I LIVE ON A MOUNTAIN AND WE HAVE A ROAD CALLED BREAKNECK AND IT IS A 25% GRADE. IT WAS RAINING THE DAY THAT THIS HAPPENED AND ALL I HAD WAS A LITTLE BIT OF FOOT BRAKE AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. I SURELY WOULD HAVE HAD A BAD ACCIDENT IF I MADE IT TO THAT HILL.

AFTER RUNNING VEHICLE, GAS RUNS DOWN SIDES FROM TOP OF FUEL TANK, AND DRIPS UNDER VEHICLE. CONTINUES TO DRIP IF CAR IDLES. STOPS IF CAR IS SHUT OFF. STRONG SMELL OF FUEL AFTER DRIVING VEHICLE

2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. CONSUMER STATES DEFECTIVE SPEEDOMETER. *TGW CONSUMER SENT IN DUPLICATE LETTER ON 3/25/2010. *KB THE CONSUMER STATED THE SPEEDOMETER WAS STUCK AT 120 MPH. THE CONSUMER WAS INFORMED HER VEHICLE WAS NOT A PART OF THE RECALL, AS HER VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION DID NOT FALL WITHIN THE RANGE. THE SECOND PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE WAS THE TRANSMISSION. THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER, DUE TO THE INTERAL FAILURE OF THE TRANSMISSION. *JB UPDATED 04/12/10.*JB

THE TRANSMISSION BEGAN SLIPPING; THE CAR WOULD NOT MOVE FROM 2ND TO 3RD GEAR; THE TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REBUILT OR REPLACED ON 2/06/2008, WE HAD IT REBUILT. THE VEHICLE ONLY HAD 69710 MILES. WE WERE IN A RURAL AREA AT THE TIME RATHER THAN RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. THANK GOODNESS. *TR

Gear status indicator does not display selected gear.

TRUCK DOOR IS NOT OPENING, FUEL GAS DEFECTIVE, REAR LIGHT SYSTEM HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ALL THE TIMES, A/C SYSTEM ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE GLASS WINDOW DETACHED FROM THE REAR LIFT GATE HYDRAULIC HINGES CAUSING IT TO HANG LOOSELY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT HE HAD TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE GLASS FROM THE REAR LIFT GATE TO PREVENT IT FROM BREAKING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN VERIFIED THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE GLASS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 94,000.

THE REAR WINDOW IN THE REAR LIFT DOOR HAS DELAMINATED AND CRACKED AT THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDOW CAUSING THE WINDOW SHIFT. I CALLED GENERAL MOTORS ON 3/26/13 AT 4PM AND TALKED TO A PHONE REP. THE CASE #[XXX]WAS GIVEN TO ME BY REP. [XXX]@ 866-790-5600 EXT.[XXX]. I WAS ADVISED TO GO TO THE CHRONIC CHEV. DEALER IN GRIFFIN GA. WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE SO THEY COULD SEE THE SITUATION. THE AREA DIST. MANAGER WAS CALLED. BOTTOM LINE, I WAS TOLD THAT THEY COULD DO NOTHING AS IT WAS DUE TO "AGE, WEAR AND TEAR". THE DEALER SAID IT WOULD COST $862.00 & $200.00 TO INSTALL. THEY ALSO SUGGESTED I COULD CALL SAFELITE AUTO AND THEY WOULD INSTALL AN AFTER MARKET GLASS FOR $462.90, PARTS & LABOR. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE REGARDING THIS ISSUE AND GENERAL MOTORS WILL DO NOTHING. I DID SEE THE NEW SUBURBAN AND SEEN CHANGES IN THE WAY THE WINDOW IS MOUNTED. SOMETHING NEED TO BE DONE! INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

This vehicle has less than 84,000 miles on it, and the chassis or frame is rotted. The rear anti sway bar already rotted off it, and the front bar is hanging down on the passenger side. I have photos of this, but don't know how to download them. The body has a little rot here, and there, but that is repairable. I spent a lot of money in purchasing this vehicle, and I expected it to last a very long time. The interior is almost like new. I am thinking about putting a tort claim about this to GM. Please help me all you can. I forgot to write that I also spent extra money for it to be undercoated, and it is supposed to be a lifetime warranty. I called that company, and they said it was only for 10 years. When I buy a new vehicle, I expect it to last.

BRAKES GAVE OUT SUDDENLY WITHOUT WARNING.CHEVY DEALER SAID LINES ARE RUSTED AND NEED REPLACE AT COST OF $1600.ALSO JUST REPLACED STEERING GEAR BOX PITMAN ARM AND IDLER ARM AND WHEEL BEARING HUB AT A COST OF $2300 BECAUSE YOUR NUTS ON THE STEERING ASSEMBLY HAVE A TENDENCY TO COME OFF.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN EQUIPPED WITH FEDERAL COURGIA M/T 33 TIRES (N/A), SIZE:12.50/R20. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE TREAD BECAME SEPARATED FROM THE REAR DRIVER'S SIDE TIRE. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO A TIRE SHOP WHERE THE TECHNICIAN REPLACED ALL FOUR TIRES. THE CONTACT EMAILED THE MANUFACTURER BUT HAD NOT RECEIVED A RESPONSE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE OF THE TIRE WAS 7,800. THE VEHICLE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 139,000. THE DOT NUMBER WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

I HAVE A 2005 CHEVY SUBURBAN 4X4 AND WITHIN THE FIRST 14,000 MILES IT HAS STARTED TO ENGAGE INTO 4W LO WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, IN REVERSE, GOING 25 MPH IN RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOOD(THIS IS A GEAR THAT YOU CANNOT DRIVE OVER 15MPH IN). NEEDLESS TO SAY THAT SHELLWORTH CHEVROLET LOCATED IN VACAVILLE, CA HAS BEEN TRYING TO FIX THE PROBLEM FOR OVER 25,000 MILES AND OVER 6 TIMES IN THE SHOP. THEY HAVE BEEN UNSUCCESSFUL WITH THE LAST TIME IT WAS IN THE SHOP UNWILLING TO DO ANYTHING FOR ME. IT HAS EVEN BEEN TOWED INTO THEIR SHOP ON ONE OCCASION. THEY NO LONGER WANT TO PROVIDE ME WITH SERVICE, TOLD ME TO FILE A COMPLAINT WITH GM FOR A BUYBACK PURCHASE AND SHOED ME OFF. GM SAYS IT IS NOT ELIGIBLE FOR THE BUYBACK PROGRAM PROBABLY BECAUSE OF ALL THE FALSE AND INACCURATE INFORMATION THE SERVICE WRITERS HAVE DOCUMENTED ON THE WORK ORDERS. I HAVE ASKED TO SPEAK TO GM DISTRICT MANAGER WHO HAS MADE THIS DECISION AND HE HAS DECLINED TO SPEAK TO ME, AS WELL AS THE SERVICE MANAGER AT SHELLWORTH HAS NOT RETURNED MY LAST 2 PHONE CALLS. THE LAW STATES THAT THEY EITHER FIX MY VEHICLE TO A WORKING ORDER OR GIVE ME A REPLACEMENT VEHICLE. THEY ARE NOT DOING EITHER. ON OCT. 31 AFTER ARGUING WITH THEM BECAUSE THEY DIDN'T WANT TO HANDLE THE ISSUE THAT TIME EITHER THEY DECIDED TO GO LOOK AT A DIFFERENT BULLETIN AND FOUND SOMETHING, SO THEY REPLACED SOME PARTS AND RELEASED THE VEHICLE TO ME. SINCE THEN THE LIGHT HAS CAME ON 2 TIMES WHICH IS THE START OF THE PROCESS IN WHICH IT THEN ENGAGES TO 4W LO ALL BY ITSELF. *TR

FIRST THE TRANSMISSION FAILED RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 2 YEARS AGO. I HAD TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION THAT WASN'T CHEAP AROUND $3,500. THEN THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS STARTED WITH THE RIGHT SIDE LAST YEAR JUST HAD A TON OF PLAY IN IT MY MECHANIC FOUND IT WHEN LIFTING UP MY TRUCK FOR A TIRE ROTATION. THEN THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING JUST STARTED MAKING A LOAD ROARING NOISE BUT HAD NO PLAY IN IT AT ALL THAT I COULD FEEL WHEN CHECKING IT OUT. BOTH COST AROUND $250 A WHEEL TO REPLACE. NOW MY 5.3 LITER ENGINE IS HAVING A KNOCKING SOUND WHEN AT A STOP AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 30 MINUTES OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO I AM HEARING A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE COLD OR HOT. I HAVE 4 SMALL KIDS SO I NEED A VERY RELIABLE LARGE VEHICLE AND THIS IS SUBURBAN IS DRIVING ME AND MY WIFE CRAZY HAVING TO POOR MONEY IN THIS VEHICLE EVERY YEAR. I AM THE SOIL PROVIDER FOR MY FAMILY I CANT AFFORD PUTTING ALL MY MONEY INTO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS.

IT WOULDN'T LET ME PICK TIRES I HAVE A SET OF 4 BRIDGESTONE DEULER H/L AND THE TIRES HAVE 2 TIRES HAVE 6/32 OF TREAD AND THE OTHER 2 HAD 8/32 AND ON ALL 4 TIRES THE BELTS ARE SEPARATING !!! I USED TO HAVE A CDL LICENSE AND DRIVE TOW TRUCKS AND IF I GOT PULLED OVER BY THE STATE WHETHER IT BE BY D.O.T. OR STATE POLICE I WOULD RECEIVE TICKETS AND POSSIBLY BE STUCK AT WEIGH STATION WAITING FOR A TIRE REPAIR SERVICE TO SHOW UP !!

This vehicle has less than 84,000 miles on it, and the chassis or frame is rotted. The rear anti sway bar already rotted off it, and the front bar is hanging down on the passenger side. I have photos of this, but don't know how to download them. The body has a little rot here, and there, but that is repairable. I spent a lot of money in purchasing this vehicle, and I expected it to last a very long time. The interior is almost like new. I am thinking about putting a tort claim about this to GM. Please help me all you can. I forgot to write that I also spent extra money for it to be undercoated, and it is supposed to be a lifetime warranty. I called that company, and they said it was only for 10 years. When I buy a new vehicle, I expect it to last.

THE FUEL LINE THAT IS ON TOP OF THE GAS TANK ROTTED THROUGH. THE BRAKE AND TRANSMISSION LINES ROTTED AND LEAKED. THE CHASSIS IS ROTTING IN DIFFERENT PLACES I HAVE LESS THAN 77,000 MILES ON IT SINCE I BOUGHT NEW. I HAVE A 1969 MALIBU THAT I'VE HAD SINCE IT WAS NEW AND I KEEP IT OUTSIDE IN ALL KINDS OF WEATHER AND NOT ONE PART OF THE CHASSIS IS ROTTED. I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF STEEL THEY USE NOW TO BUILD THESE CARS AND TRUCKS, BUT IT SHOULD BE UNACCEPTABLE. I DON'T KNOW THE EXACT DATES THESE THINGS HAPPENED, BUT I DO HAVE ALL THE REPAIR BILLS FOR THEM. WHEN THE BRAKE LINE ROTTED THROUGH I WAS GOING TO THE STORE AND WHEN I CAME TO A YIELD SIGN THE BRAKE PEDAL WHET TO THE FLOOR. IT'S A GOOD THING IT HAPPENED THEN, BECAUSE I LIVE ON A MOUNTAIN AND WE HAVE A ROAD CALLED BREAKNECK AND IT IS A 25% GRADE. IT WAS RAINING THE DAY THAT THIS HAPPENED AND ALL I HAD WAS A LITTLE BIT OF FOOT BRAKE AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. I SURELY WOULD HAVE HAD A BAD ACCIDENT IF I MADE IT TO THAT HILL.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BLOWER MOTOR OF THE AIR CONDITIONER INTERMITTENTLY FAILS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN REPLACED THE BLOWER RESISTOR, BECAUSE IT MELTED IN SIDE OF THE INSTRUMENT CONTROL PANEL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 55,000.

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE SEAT BELT ON THE PASSENGER AND CENTER SECOND ROW SEATS CAME UNLATCHED ON THREE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO THE DEALER EACH TIME WHERE THE BUCKLE ASSEMBLY WAS REPLACED TWICE, HOWEVER THE PROBLEM RECURRED. UPDATED 12/1/2006 - *NM