Owner-reported complaints naming the driver-assistance system, filed with NHTSA
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Reports naming forward-collision avoidance, lane keeping, back-over prevention, cruise control and related electronic driver-assistance systems. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2013 Hyundai Veloster submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 18 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Shown in the owner’s own words, exactly as filed
Unknown but it threw the abs light on and off and then the oil change light come on and it stared ticking after it shut off and then I turned it on and the ticking got worse and louder and steering was cliking so I parked it and it would not go over 20 mph or pull a hill so It’s been parked ever since
I have had the ABS checked by Hyundai dealership per recall and they told me there was no issues, but I’m having a lot of problems with accelerating, and it shifting gears, I don’t think the system is really diagnosing, whenever I turn my car on sometimes it will do a diagnostic read, but it can’t send data, and it will take a while for the system to reset itself. It does smell like my car is smoking and I will have to physically roll my window down and/or poke my head out the window to make sure it’s not smoking. I’m checking my temperature gauge in my car to make sure it id within normal range. And when the check engine light comes on, sometimes it will come up and will blink for a few seconds and then disappear. Then I will go to O’Reilly’s or Advanced Auto Zone to get a reading the common codes that have come up were P0401, P0442,
Connecting rod failure. A test was ran on my car and this code came up even though my check engine light was off. There is a rattling when accelerating and a decrease in speed when accelerating. The rattling began a little less than a year ago so I took it to a shop but they said it couldn’t be fixed because the engine is enclosed. Basically to fix this issue I would need an entire new engine and it is already causing major issues on my vehicle. This is a safety issue because the engine could just fail.
I have had to replace the turbo and radiator. I have replaced the coil packs and spark plugs 3 times since I received the car and now the transmission is acting up. I bought the car Dec 2020 and it has left me stranded on the side of the road 4 times already from the engine malfunctioning.
FORWARD COLLISION WARNING DON'T WORK AT ALL, AND CLICKING SOUND COME FROM THE FRONT WHEN PRESS THE GAS PEDAL WHEN I PRESS THE BRAKE, WHEN I TURN LEFT OR RIGHT, THAT'S SOUND IS CONSTANTLY ALL TIME, I SEE A LOT OF POST AND SAME CAR WITH THIS PROBLEM AND HYUNDAI DON'T DO NOTHING ABOUT THIS, I SEND THE CAR TO REPLACE THE CV AXLES AND SAME PROBLEM SOUND.
THE STEERING WHEEL IS LOSE WITH LOUD CLICKING SOUND WHEN THE WHEEL IS TURNED. THE CRUISE CONTROL WHEN TURN ON WILL NOT TURN OFF. THE CLICKING LOSE STEERING HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY OR DRIVING. CRUISE CONTROL STOCKS WHEN DRIVING. THIS STARTED 3 YEARS AGO. STOPPED USING CRUISE CONTROL. TOOK CAR TO HYUNDAI FOR BOTH. CLICKING/LOOSE STEERING IS A FAULTY PART THAT IS KNOW BY HYUNDAI AND HAS BEEN RECALLED ON SEVETAL OTHER HYUNDAI. BUT NO RECALL HAS BEEN DONE FOR THE VELOSTER
AC CONTROL SWITCH REPLACED 4 TIMES AND THE CRUZE SWITCH HAS WIRE PROBLEM
THE SPEED CONTROL PANEL IS NOT WORKING AND THE HORN IS NOT WORKING EITHER
TO MAKE A VERY LONG STORY SHORT, I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND MY CAR SUDDENLY EXPLODED AND OIL SPEWED OUT TOWARDS THE REAR. I HAD TO GET MY ENGINE REPLACED IN LATE 2017 DUE TO THE ENGINE THROWING A ROD. IT TOOK 3 MONTHS TO REPAIR BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP WAS BEHIND DUE TO OTHER PEOPLE HAVING ENGINE MALFUNCTIONS. IT TOOK WEEKS TO GET A RENTAL WHICH WAS HECTIC BECAUSE ME AND MY HUSBAND BOTH WORKED AND COMMUTED WITH A 2-YEAR OLD. AFTER MY HUSBAND DROVE MY CAR OFF THE LOT, MY CAR WAS SOUNDING A LITTLE FUNNY, ALMOST LIKE A SUCKING NOSE THAT WE ENDED UP HAVING TO TAKE BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THEM TELL ME THAT I NEEDED TO PAY A DIAGNOSTIC CHARGE EVEN THOUGH MY CAR WAS WELL UNDER WARRANTY LIMIT. I ENDED UP SPEAKING WITH THE MANAGER AND HE HAD THE TECHNICIAN LOOK AT IT TO ONLY BE TOLD IT WAS NOTHING ENGINE RELATED EVEN THOUGH MY ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON! A FEW MONTHS AFTER THAT, MY CAR STARTED LOSING POWER AND WAS INOPERABLE. I HAD IT TOWED TO THE SAME DEALERSHIP ONLY TO BE TOLD THAT I NEEDED ANOTHER ENGINE REPLACEMENT! THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THAT I WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE TO PAY SINCE THEY ALREADY TOOK CARE OF IT THE FIRST TIME. THE COST TO REPAIR WOULD HAVE BEEN OVER WHAT THE VALUE OF MY CAR IS. ME AND MY HUSBAND HAD TO LEAVE MY CAR AT THE DEALERSHIP SINCE IT WAS NOT DRIVE-ABLE AND THEY ENDED UP SELLING THE VEHICLE AT AUCTION FOR $1700 IN FEBRUARY 2019. I RECENTLY JUST FOUND OUT THAT MY CAR IS UNDER RECALL FOR THE SAME REASONS IT WAS IN THE SHOP THE FIRST 3 TIMES. HYUNDAI CONCLUDES THAT THE 2013 VELOSTER WERE HAVING ENGINE AND MECHANICAL ISSUES. I HAVE A RECALL NUMBER AND HAVE SPOKE TO 3 DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS TO SEE WHAT I CAN DO TO RESOLVE THE BALANCE I HAVE LEFT TO PAY ON THE CAR OF $8710. I KNEW THERE MUST HAVE BEEN AN ISSUE SINCE THE LAST FEW TIMES I'VE WENT TO THE DEALERSHIP THERE WERE A LOT OF VEHICLES NEEDING ENGINE REPLACEMENTS. THIS HAS BEEN FRUSTRATING TO DEAL WITH. *TR
1) STEERING WHEEL REMOTE CONTROLS FOR RADIO & PHONE HAVE BEEN INTERMITTENT SINCE ORIGINAL PURCHASE; 2) AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM DOES NOT COMPLETELY RESTRICT OUTSIDE/ENGINE WARM AIR COMING INTO CABIN WHEN NOT USING A/C, FOR INSTANCE WHEN WINDOWS DOWN; 3) CLOCK DOES NOT WORK CONSISTENTLY (IT ONLY RECENTLY JUST STARTED WORKING ALL BY ITSELF.
THE HEATING CONTROL UNIT KNOB DOES NOT SET ON THE VARIOUS SETTINGS (1-4) AND DOES NOT BLOW HEAT OR AIR CORRECTLY. MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE AND END UP HAVING TO REPLACE THE UNIT THEMSELVES. THE ISSUE IS THE CONTACTS GET BURNED OUT AND NO LONGER WORK. THIS IS A SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD AND I DONT KNOW WHY A RECALL HASNT BEEN ISSUED. IF YOU SEARCH ONLINE YOU WILL SEE NUMEROUS EXAMPLES OF WHAT I AM REFERRING TO. IF I REPLACE THIS MYSELF I HAVE TO RISK DAMAGING MY CAR OR ELECTROCUTING MYSELF AND PAYING FOR AN EXPENSIVE PART. THE OTHER OPTION IS HAVE A MECHANIC DO IT AND END UP SPENDING OVER 500$ FOR SOMETHING THAT SHOULD NOT BE MALFUNCTIONING. PLEASE INVESTIGATE THIS SERIOUS ISSUE AND DO THE RIGHT THING.
DRIVING ON INTERSTATE, ALL LIGHTS FLASHED ON, ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON AND MY CAR STALLED AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I HAD TO TAKE IT OUT OF DRIVE, PUT IT IN SPORT MODE AND THEN BACK TO DRIVE. IT WOULD SHAKE VIOLENTLY IF I WENT ABOVE 45 MILES AN HOUR, I WAS 130 MILES FROM HOME. THIS IS NOT FIRST TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED, HAVE MADE PREVIOUS COMPLAINTS
'TAKATA RECALL' MY VELOSTER HAS BEEN STALLING SINCE I LEASED IT THERE'S ALWAYS A PROBLEM WHEN SPEEDING UP AND HAS BEEN TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR SERVICE MORE THAN 3 TIMES FOR THE SAME PROBLEM AND HAS BEEN OUT OF SERVICE FOR MORE THAN 35 DAYS THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME ON HIGHWAY, STATIONARY AND ON STREETS IT'S U JUST THAT I HAVE TO PAY FOR A VEHICLE LIKE THIS WHEN I SHOULD BE GETTING MY MONEYS WORTH
THIS HAS ACTUALLY HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES, EACH TIME WHEN TURNING.THE FIRST TIME WAS TURNING LEFT OUT OF A PARKING LOT, MY CAR REFUSED TO ACCELERATE, I HAD TO PUT IT INTO NEUTRAL AND THEN BACK INTO DRIVE, IT FINALLY STARTED DRIVING. THE SECOND TIME, WAS DRIVING AND TURNED LEFT INTO AN INTERSECTION AND IT JUST STOPPED. I HAD TO TURN IT OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN BEFORE IT WOULD MOVE. I AM LUCKY NO ONE WAS BEHIND ME. THE 3RD TIME I WAS NOT ALONE IN THE CAR AND AGAIN I TURNED LEFT INTO AN INTERSECTION AND IT JUST STOPPED. EMERGENCY BLINKERS ON AND AGAIN, I HAD TO TURN OFF THE CAR AND TURN IT ON AGAIN FOR IT IT MOVE. THE MOST RECENT WAS THIS MORNING WHEN I TURNED RIGHT AND LIKE BEFORE, IT JUST WOULDN'T MOVE. I HAD TO TURN EMERGENCY BLINKERS ON, AND TURN OFF AND TURN ON CAR AGAIN. LIVING IN A BUSY CITY WITH PEOPLE THAT ARE NOT PAYING ATTENTION ALL THE TIME, THIS IS REALLY STARTING TO BE WORRISOME.
ELECTRONIC GEAR MOTOR OVERHEATED AND LEFT VEHICLE IN OVERDRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY IN STOPPED/SLOWED TRAFFIC. ONCE IN PARK OR NEUTRAL, TRANSMISSION IS DISABLED AND WILL NOT GO INTO ANY GEAR. HAD TO PUSH THE VEHICLE OFF THE ROAD TO HAVE TOWED. DEALER CALLED THE PART THE 'GEAR MOTOR ACTUATOR' AND THAT HE HAS DONE NUMEROUS REPLACEMENTS AND THE PROBLEM IS ONGOING.
THE PROBLEM INITIALLY STARTED WITH AN ERRANT TIRE PRESSURE WARNING WHEN IN REALITY I HAD A FAULTY WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (RIGHT FRONT). THE TIRE WARNING LIGHT WOULD CLEAR WHEN THE IGNITION WAS TURNED OFF THEN BACK ON BUT THE PROBLEM WOULD PERSIST AND PROGRESSED TO THE ELECTRONIC STEERING DISABLING (NO STEERING), THE SPEED CONTROLS NOT FUNCTIONING (NO SPEEDOMETER OR CRUISE CONTROL), THE TRACTION CONTROL DISABLING (NO TRACTION CONTROL), AND MOST WORRISOME IS THAT THE BUILT IN KEYLESS IGNITION SAFETY SYSTEMS WERE DISABLED. THIS MEANT THAT THE KEYLESS IGNITION BUTTON (POSTIONED 2 INCHES FROM THE GEAR SHIFT LEVER!) WOULD AND DID TURN THE CAR OFF IF INADVERTATNLY BUMPED. I DOWN SHIFTED ON THE FREEWAY FROM 6TH TO 5TH AT APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH AND BUMPED THE BUTTON COMPLETELY SHUTTING OFF THE ENTIRE CAR. 65 MPH AND NO CONTROL IS HORRIBLY DANGEROUS. THE DESIGN IS INHERENTLY FLAWED IF A WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CAN DISABLE THE ENTIRE CAR AT FREEWAY SPEEDS.
I HAVE A HYUNDAI VELOSTER 2013, I NOTICED MY BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON THE DASH ON MONDAY BUT WENT OFF. TUESDAY MORNING WHEN I WAS BACKING OUT THE DRIVE WAY MY CAR GOT STUCK IN REVERSE. THE CAR THAT WAS COMING ALMOST HIT ME HE HAD TO RUN OFF THE ROAD. HE THEN GOT OUT THE CAR AND HELPED ME GET IT BACK IN TO PARK. IT TOOK US ABOUT 15 MINS TO GET IT. I TOOK IT TO THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP THEY DIDN'T EVEN TRY TO FIX IT HE TOLD ME TO GO HOME AND THEY WILL GIVE ME A CALL IF THEY GET A APT OPEN. SO ON MY WAY HOME MY CAR WAS JERKING I PULLED OVER AT THE STORE AND GOT STUCK MY CAR WOULDN'T GOT INTO PARK, SO I WAS SITTING THERE WITH MY FOOT ON THE BREAK FOR ABOUT 30 MINS UNTIL I GOT IT TO PARK. I HAVE CALLED CORPORATE OFFICE AND NOTHING STILL HAS HAPPENED I AM ABOUT TO RETURN THIS DANG CAR. *TR
DRIVER TURNED RIGHT FROM A STOP SIGN ONTO A HIGHWAY AND BEGAN ACCELERATING TO 55 M.P.H WHEN DRIVER REACHED APPROXIMATELY 35 M.P.H, HE HEARD A LOUD BANG IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AT WHICH POINT THE VEHICLE LOST POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS STILL RUNNING BUT THE DRIVER COULD NOT ACCELERATE OR THROTTLE. THE DRIVER PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WHEN THE DRIVER NOTICED WHITE SMOKE ACCUMULATING AND THE SMELL OF COOLANT OR ANTIFREEZE COMING INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. THE SMOKE WAS COMING FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND BECAME DARKER IN COLOR. THE ENGINE THEN WENT UP IN FLAMES. *TR
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
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