Owner-reported complaints naming the transmission system, filed with NHTSA
Data refreshed
Reports naming the automatic or manual transmission, including shifting behaviour, shudder, slipping and transmission control modules. Every record below is an owner-reported complaint about the 2006 Jeep Wrangler submitted to NHTSA — not a confirmed defect, not a recall and not a manufacturer bulletin. 19 reports on file name it.
Complaints are reports submitted by owners and drivers to NHTSA. They are not verified and do not establish that a defect exists.
Shown in the owner’s own words, exactly as filed
2006 JEEP WRANGLER. CONSUMER STATES SHIFT CABLE BUSHING BROKE WHICH CAUSED THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER TO BE INOPERABLE. *TGW THE CONSUMER STATED THE SHIFT CABLE FAILED TWICE. *JB
2006 JEEP WRANGLER. CONSUMER STATES CLUTCH PEDAL SNAPPED. THE CONSUMER STATED WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO START THE VEHICLE, THE CLUTCH SNAPPED AND DANGLED. THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC UNIT ACTUATING ROD HAD SNAPPED IN TWO. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE CONSUMER STATED THE DEALER CONTACTED HIM AND STATED THE RECALL WAS PERFORMED IN AUGUST 2006. THE CONSUMER STATED HE FORGOT THE RECALL HAD ALREADY BEEN PERFORMED. BUT APPARENTLY, THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC UNIT THAT WAS INSTALLED UNDER THE RECALL IS ALSO DEFECTIVE. *JB
VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO WORK, APPROX. 15 MILES, AND PARKED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE TO GO TO LUNCH, THE CLUTCH PEDAL SNAPPED AND DANGLED. THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC UNIT ACTUATING ROD HAD SNAPPED IN TWO. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR REPAIRS. THE REPLACEMENT PART HAVE TO BE ORDERED AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT BE REPAIRED UNTIL NEXT WEEK. I HAVE REQUESTED THE DEALER TO KEEP THE OLD PART FOR ME. IF THIS HAD OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING IN THE MORNING OR LUNCH TIME TRAFFIC I HAVE NO DOUBT IT WOULD HAVE CAUSED A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. *TR
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE NOTICED A HARD VIBRATION UNDER THE CLUTCH, THE CLUTCH MADE A POPPING SOUND WHEN SHE SWITCHED GEARS AND ONCE IN SIXTH GEAR, THE RPMS FLUCTUATED. FURTHERMORE, THERE WERE TIMES WHEN THE VEHICLE SEEMED AS IF IT WOULD STALL. THE CONTACT NOTICED THESE PROBLEMS WHEN THE VEHICLE REACHED A SPEED OF 60 MPH. SHE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHO COULD NOT DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THE CONTACT BELIEVED THAT THE FAILURE WAS RELATED TO RECALL 06V147000 (POWER TRAIN:CLUTCH ASSEMBLY). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,476. THE CURRENT MLEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 40,800.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT SUSPENSION WOULD BOUNCE AND CAUSE ROUGH HANDLING OF THE VEHICLE, MORE SO IN COLDER TEMPERATURES. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING 12 MPH. THE DEALER TOOK THE VEHICLE FOR A TEST DRIVE BUT COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. HE DID STATE THAT THE THROTTLE BODY COULD HAVE CAUSED THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 53,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 57,000. UPDATED 5/3/10 *CN THE CONSUMER WAS ALSO HAVING PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSON. THE DEALER INFORMED THE CONSUMER NOT TO USE FIRST GEAR, BUT TO START IN SECOND GEAR. UPDATED 06/28/10*JB
FIRST I STARTED TO HAVE A LOUD RATTLING SOUND WHEN I AM IDLING, NEUTRAL WITH THE CLUTCH OUT. I WAS TOLD IT WAS NORMAL WEAR NOISE, BUT I COULD REPLACE THE THROW OUT BEARING TO MAKE IT QUIETER. AFTER IT WAS REPLACED I STARTED HEARING A LOUD WHISTLING SOUND WHEN MY JEEP IS COASTING AND ABOVE 2000 RPMS WITH THE CLUTCH OUT. THE DEALERSHIP KEEPS TELLING ME IT'S NORMAL. I HAVE TAKEN IT BACK 2 TIMES, BUT THEY CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM. I'M STILL HAVING THE NOISE AND THERE IS NO SIGN OF A FIX FROM THE DEALERSHIP. THEY JUST KEEP SAYING IT'S NORMAL. JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE THEY HAVE HAD TO FIX!!! *TR
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING AND MADE A RATTLING NOISE. IN ADDITION, THE CLUTCH BECAME DISENGAGED WHEN THE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VIN WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 06V147000 (POWER TRAIN:CLUTCH ASSEMBLY). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 14,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 15,000.
MY ROTORS IN MY '06 WRANGLER WENT BAD AT 9500 MILES, SHAKING VIOLENTLY WHEN STOPPING. THEY WERE REPLACED, BUT NOW AT 20K THE SAME THING IS OCCURRING! I WAS TOLD CHRYSLER WILL TURN THEM FOR FREE BUT WILL NOT REPLACE THEM AGAIN. THEY NEVER REPLACED THE ORIGINAL PADS EITHER. I AM VERY UPSET TO SEE SUCH A TREND OF COMPLAINTS WITH THE ROTORS AND THE COMPANY STILL CONTINUES TO USE CHEAP, DEFECTIVE PARTS. THE MECHANIC THE FIRST TIME TOLD ME THIS IS COMMON AND CHRYSLER DOES NOT CARE ONCE YOU BOUGHT THE VEHICLE. THINGS REPLACED SO FAR, AND THESE WERE UNDER 10KMILES; STEERING STABILIZER/ROTORS/SLAVE CYLINDER IN CLUTCH($700 JOB)/NOT DELIVERED WITH TINTED REAR WINDOWS/HESITATION AND STALLING AT A RED LIGHTS/STRAP BROKE OFF RIVET IN SOFT TOP. CLUTCH STILL MAKING THE NOISE THAT WAS DIAGNOSED AS SLAVE CYLINDER (ITS THE THROTTLE BEARING DA!!!) *TR
I WAS DRIVING MY 2006 JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON MANUAL 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH LESS THAN 15,000 MILES ON IT WHEN WITHOUT WARNING IT STOPPED ACCELERATING. I WAS IN 4TH GEAR AT THE TIME. I TRIED TO SWITCH GEARS AND WAS UNABLE TO PUT IT INTO ANY GEAR AND WAS STUCK COASTING IN NEUTRAL. I STOPPED THE CAR AND WAS AGAIN UNABLE TO PUT THE CAR INTO ANY GEAR WHILE THE ENGINE WAS ON. I TURNED OFF THE ENGINE, PUT THE CAR INTO SECOND GEAR AND RESTARTED IT AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE TO SAFETY IN 2ND GEAR TO A GAS STATION A MILE DOWN THE STREET BEFORE THE CAR GAVE A PUFF OF BLACK SMOKE FROM THE TAILPIPE AND WOULD NO LONGER DRIVE. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS A WEAR ITEM - AND THAT MY CLUTCH WAS BURNED UP. THIS WAS NOT A WARN OUT/BURNED OUT CLUTCH BUT I COULD NOT PROVE IT. 1200.00 WORTH OF REPAIRS FOR SOMETHING THAT I AM POSITIVE WAS NOT MY FAULT. *TR
THE PROBLEMS FIST STARTED AROUND 3,000. MILES. IT STARTED PINGING ( METAL TO METAL SOUND ) BETWEEN SHIFTING GEARS. WHEN I FIRST TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY TOLD ME IT WAS NORMAL AND NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT. LESS THAN A MONTH LATER IT WAS BACK IN THE SHOP FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THEN THEY SAID THEY WERE GOING TO HAVE TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH, BECAUSE IT WAS WEAK, AND THE PRESSURE PLATE. I JUST HAD IT IN THE SHOP YESTERDAY FOR THE SAME PINGING SOUNDS AGAIN, ALL OVER AGAIN. AND WAS TOLD, IT WAS FINE, DRIVE IT ANY WAY YOU LIKE. SO NOW I'M EXPECTING TO HAVE TO GO BACK ONCE AGAIN IN A MONTH TO HAVE THE SAME REPAIRS, AND MY JEEP ONLY HAS 5,700 MILES ON IT. *JB
AFTER APPROXIMATELY 500 MILES THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO EXHIBIT DIFFICULTY IN SHIFTING FROM FIRST TO SECOND GEAR. PROBLEM IS VERY APPARENT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS COLD, BUT STILL NOTICEABLE AFTER THE VEHICLE WARMS UP. WHEN SHIFTING FROM FIRST TO SECOND, IT FEELS AS IF SECOND GEAR IS NOT FULLY SYNCHRONIZED. IF IT IS DONE AT A NORMAL SHIFT RATE IT ACTUALLY CLIPS SECOND GEAR (AND MAKES AN ASSOCIATED CLIPPING/GRINDING NOISE). PAUSING IN NEUTRAL AND RESTING THE SHIFTER AGAINST SECOND, YOU CAN ACTUALLY FEEL TWO OR THREE GEAR TEETH GO BY BEFORE IT WILL DROP INTO GEAR. TO GET IT TO SHIFT SMOOTHLY WITHOUT CLIPPING GEAR TEETH REQUIRES A LONG ENOUGH DELAY IN NEUTRAL THAT FOLLOWING TRAFFIC ALMOST REAR ENDS THE VEHICLE. THE DRIVER IS ESSENTIALLY FACED WITH THE DECISION OF DAMAGING THE TRANSMISSION OR RISKING GETTING REAR ENDED. DOUBLE CLUTCHING THE VEHICLE HELPS, BUT OBVIOUSLY SHOULD NOT BE REQUIRED FOR A FULLY SYNCHRONIZED TRANSMISSION. TOOK THE VEHICLE INTO THE DEALER AT 1164 MILES AND 1306 MILES, BUT THE SERVICE TECHNICIANS CLAIM THEY CANNOT REPRODUCE THE PROBLEM, BUT THEY ADJUSTED AND LUBRICATED THE LINKAGE AS A PREVENTIVE MEASURE. HOWEVER, THE SERVICE MANAGER AND ANOTHER DEALER EMPLOYEE WHO DROVE THE VEHICLE HAVE NOTICED THAT SECOND GEAR DOESN'T FEEL THE SAME AS OTHER WRANGLERS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS. I HAVE ALSO HAD SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND THEY AGREE THAT THE TRANSMISSION ISN'T SHIFTING CORRECTLY. I AM SCHEDULED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE IN AGAIN FOR THIS PROBLEM, BUT VIA PHONE THE DEALER DOESN'T APPEAR TO HAVE AN IDENTIFIED CAUSE OR FIX. VEHICLE IS NOW AT APPROXIMATELY 1600 MILES AND PROBLEM IS STILL VERY APPARENT, IF NOT WORSE. THIS ISSUE APPEARS TO BE RELATED TO ODI ID NUMBER : 10156374 & 10160948. *NM
CONSUMER COMPLAINT CONCERNING 2006 WRANGLER CLUTCH PEDAL PUSHROD. *TS THE CONSUMER WAS HAVING DIFFICULTY GETTING AN APPOINTMENT FROM THE DEALER THAT WAS CLOSEST TO HIM BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED FRO SOME WHERE ELSE. THE CONSUMER HAD TO GO TO ANOTHER DEALER THE WAS 50 MILES AWAY TO GET THE RECALL WORK PERFORMED. *JB
THREE MONTH OLD JEEP WRANGLER WITH 6 SPEED. AFTER VEHICLE HAS BEEN SITTING FOR A FEW HOURS, REGARDLESS OF OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE, THE FIRST SEVERAL 1-2 SHIFTS UPON DRIVING IT AGAIN EXHIBIT A LOUD GRINDING SOUND WHICH CAN ALSO BE FELT THROUGH THE SHIFTER. THE TRANSMISSION IS RELUCTANT TO COME OUT OF FIRST GEAR. IT HAS TO BE PULLED OUT OF GEAR INSTEAD OF JUST SLIDING OUT. IT THEN FEELS LIKE IT BOUNCES OFF OF SECOND GEAR, REQUIRING ANOTHER ATTEMPT TO ENGAGE SECOND. WHEN I FIRST GOT THE VEHICLE, IT ACTUALLY FELT LIKE THERE WAS NO FLUID IN THE TRANSMISSION. SHIFTING BECOMES MUCH SMOOTHER, I.E. NORMAL, ONCE IT HAS BEEN RUN FOR A FEW MILES, ALTHOUGH I DO FEEL IT OCCASIONALLY EVEN AFTER DRIVING FOR A WHILE. DEALER ROAD TESTED THE VEHICLE AND SAYS IT IS "O.K. AT THIS TIME." THIS CONDITION MAY HAVE SOME SAFETY RAMIFICATIONS IN ADDITION TO THE TRANSMISSION LONGEVITY ISSUES. FIRST GEAR IN THIS VEHICLE IS VERY LOW. I ONLY USE IT TO START ROLLING A LITTLE BIT AND THEN QUICKLY TRY TO ENGAGE SECOND. HOWEVER, I AM SO CONSCIOUS OF THE DIFFICULTY OF THIS 1-2 SHIFT THAT I EXECUTE IT VERY SLOWLY, ALL THE WHILE CRINGING AT HE THOUGHT OF THE DAMAGE I AM DOING TO THE TRANSMISSION. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE RPM'S DROP OFF SO MUCH DURING THE TIME OF THIS SHIFT THAT THERE IS LITTLE POWER AVAILABLE ONCE I ACTUALLY ENGAGE SECOND, RESULTING IN LEISURELY ACCELERATION AT BEST. ON TWO OCCASIONS ALREADY, THE PEOPLE BEHIND ME HAVE BLOWN THEIR HORNS AND NEARLY RUN UP MY BACK BECAUSE, I BELIEVE, THEY MUST HAVE THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO STOP INSTEAD OF CONTINUING TO ACCELERATE. IT IS GETTING TO THE POINT WHERE, IF THE ROAD IS LEVEL, I TAKE OFF USING SECOND GEAR INSTEAD OF FIRST UNTIL I HAVE TRAVELED SEVERAL MILES AND THE TRANSMISSION BEGINS TO BEHAVE NORMALLY. I HAVE DRIVEN MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS FOR 20 YEARS AND HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED THIS TYPE OF BEHAVIOR. *JB
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED A RECALL WAS ISSUED REGARDING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY HOWEVER, DAIMLER CHRYSLER HAS NOT PROVIDED A RECALL NOTIFICATION SCHEDULE NOR WILL THEY PROVIDE ANY INFORMATION ABOUT THE RECALL. THE CONTACT IS CONCERNED THE VEHICLE IS HAVING THE PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE RECALL BECAUSE THERE IS A LOUD NOISE IN THE LINKAGE WHILE DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH. THE CONTACT HAS PREVIOUSLY OWNED THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL VEHICLE AND HAS NEVER HEARD THE NOISE BEFORE. THE DEALERSHIP AND MANUFACTURER HAVE BEEN ALERTED WHO EXPLAINED THEY HAVE NO INFORMATION ABOUT RECALL, NHTSA 06V147000 CONCERNING THE POWER TRAIN: CLUTCH ASSEMBLY OR DAIMLER CHRYSLER NO. F22. UPDATED 6/19/2006 - *NM
MODEL: 2006 JEEP WRANGLER RUBICON WITH 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION. AFTER BACKING OUT OF A PARKING STALL AND DURING THE TRANSITION FROM REVERSE TO 1ST GEAR THE CLUTCH PEDAL LOST ITS CONNECTION TO THE CLUTCH MECHANISM. THE PEDAL WAS FREE TO SWING WITH NO RESISTANCE AT ALL. THERE WAS A LOUD "POP" FROM UNDER THE DASH. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP BY BY-PASSING THE CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH AND STARTING THE VEHICLE IN GEAR. THE VEHICLE HAD EXACTLY 74 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. THE DEALERSHIP REPAIRED THE VEHICLE UNDER WARRANTY. *NM
NEW JEEP WRANGLER WITH 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION GRINDS WHEN OPERATOR UPSHIFTS FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEARS, NECESSITATING AN UNUSUALLY SLOW SHIFT AND CONSEQUENT POOR LOW-SPEED ACCELERATION FROM A STOP. CONDITION IS WORSE WHEN VEHICLE IS COLD AND INTERMITTENT WHEN WARM. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP FOR WARRANTY REPAIRS. JEEP REPRESENTATIVES STATE CONDITION IS "NORMAL" FOR THIS VEHICLE. NO REPAIR PERFORMED. *JB
PULLING FROM DRIVEWAY ONTO STREET, SHIFTING FROM FIRST GEAR TO SECOND GEAR (MANUAL 6-SPEED), HEARD A POP FROM UNDER DASH AND CLUTCH PEDAL WENT SLACK TO FLOORBOARD. NO CLUTCH CONTROL AFTERWARD. NO ACCIDENT BUT TREMENDOUS STRESSFUL CONDITION, ABLE TO DRIVE IN LOW GEAR OFF STREET INTO PARKING LOT AND DISENGAGE TRANSMISSION AND BRAKE. CAR TOWED TO DEALER. AWAITING DEALER RESPONSE. UPON EXAMINATION OF THE CLUTCH PEDAL MECHANISM, DISCOVERED A SMALL PLASTIC CLIP ATTACHING PEDAL TO CLUTCH CYLINDER HAD BROKEN. THIS IS A POTENTIALLY EXTREMELY DANGEROUS DESIGN ISSUE. NO RECALL INFO AVAILABLE AS OF YET. VEHICLE HAS 600 MILES ON IT. *NM
WHEN TRYING TO LEAVE A PARKING LOT FROM A DEAD STOP I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDALS, STARTED THE ENGINE, AND PLACE THE TRANSMISSION IN REVERSE. AS SOON AS I LOOKED BACK THE CLUTCH PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND THE JEEP LEAPT BACKWARDS. APPARENTLY THE "PLASTIC" LINKAGE CONNECTING THE PEDAL TO THE CLUTCH MECHANISM SNAPPED. IT IS NOW BEING REPLACED BUT FROM PREVIOUS REPORTS I BELIEVE THIS WILL BECOME A COMMON PROBLEM FOR THE 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION ON THE 2006 JEEP WRANGLER. *JB
THE 2006 SIX SPEED JEEP WRANGLER HAS A VERY DANGEROUS DESIGN FLAW. NEW FOR THE 2006 JEEP WRANGLER IS THE SIX SPEED TRANSMISSIONS AND WHAT I HAVE RECENTLY LEARNED THE HARD WAY IS PART OF THE REDESIGN INCLUDES THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. THE CLUTCH ROD COMES OUT OF THE FLOOR BOARD AND ATTACHES TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL WITH A CLIP/ATTACHMENT THAT BOLTS ONTO THE CLUTCH PEDAL. THE PROBLEM HERE IS AS PART OF THEIR NEW DESIGN THE CLIP OR ATTACHMENT PIECE IS MADE OF ??PLASTIC?? AND I FOUND THAT IT CAN BREAK VERY EASILY AND DISABLE YOUR JEEP. I LEARNED THIS FACT THIS LAST WEEKEND AND IF I HAD BEEN ROCK CLIMBING OR IN THE DESERT INSTEAD OF IN TOWN I MIGHT NOT BE HERE LETTING ALL YOU JEEP OWNERS KNOW ABOUT THIS VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM. IN ADDITION TO THIS PROBLEM AND BEING 165 MILES FROM HOME I HAD A BIG EYE OPENER ON HOW RUDE, UNCOOPERATIVE, UNCARING AND TOTALLY UNHELPFUL I FOUND CORPORATION TO BE. READ THE DETAILS OF MY PAST WEEKEND AND DAIMLER CHRYSLER SEE HOW DANGEROUS AND POTENTIALLY DEADLY THIS PROBLEM CAN BE UNLESS DAIMLER CHRYSLER CORPORATION CORRECTS IT! I ALMOST FORGOT TO MENTION THAT EVEN THOUGH IT WAS A WARRANTED PART IT TURNED OUT TO BE A VERY EXPENSIVE PROBLEM FOR ME AS WELL. *NM
Higher-selling and older vehicles accumulate more reports. Counts are not failure rates and are not directly comparable between vehicles that sold in very different numbers.
Categories with enough reports to have a page of their own
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