2009 Mazda Mazda6 Problems

My rear subframe rusted thru and has holes in it. It is too dangerous to drive and mazda won't recall the rear like the front subframe knowing that a lot of people are suffering from the same issue. A subframe should last a long time. My mechanic inspected the car and feels like it's not safe to drive.

The front and rear crossmembers have significant rust. The front has holes and chunks of metal missing due to rust corrosion. The rear has flaking and is deeply pockmarked with rust. These are structural components. Failure can lead to a crash.

Rear cross member broke due to corrosion breaking off lateral arm from driver side of cross member, I may add the front crossmember was repaired due to recall for extreme corrosion not too long ago, as I research this problem I uncover many owners of this vehicle having the same issue in the northeast,even with much lower mileage.mazda should be held accountable.$3,926.62 for part alone on Mazda parts.com

The rear subframe rusted out and my control arm broke off! This is extremely serious and because there is no recall I’m going to have to buy an another vehicle. Please issue a recall. I’ve read forms about this and many others have had the same issue with the rear subframe corroding and rotting out.

The passenger crash pad has deteriorated and become sticky and cracked. This may affect deployment of airbag and perhaps allow outside environmental elements to affect the airbag. The takata fiasco being an example of environmental factors affecting airbag safety.

Vehicle jerks at low speed when accelerate and idle when accelerate, P0766 Code shows, engine noise and gears jump, when reverse the vehicle jerks.

While driving 40mph heard a pop, hissing sound and unable to steer vehicle. Stopped at roadside to examine tires, which were ok. Incredibly difficult to steer wheel and to stay on the road while swerving. I was within a mile of Belle Tire for a mechanic to look at my Mazda 6. He showed me how the open recall on the front crossmember was repaired only on the right wheel side, and the left front wheel had the same amount of rust completely broken apart. A phone call was made to the Mazda dealer closest, problem was relayed to service manager, and said even with my pictures, Mazda needs inspection on vehicle, and wait for repair was a month. As my only vehicle ,it took 2 days to get repaired by Belle Tire. I went with my receipt, and 10 photos, to the Service Department Manager that did the original recall work to discuss what transpired, and request a reimbursement for the incomplete repair on this open recall. He was not there. I then asked to speak to the Service Department Director. He also was not there. The Mechanic Supervisor took my name and phone number for one of the managers to call me regarding this problem. I have not received any communication from either Managers, which now has been since last week. There were NO warning lights on the dashboard when this occurred. I have had this vehicle since new, and only 61,000 miles.

I own a 2009 mazda 6 witch is my only vehicle I had tooken it to a mechanic shop due to noise comming from the front and rear of the car under farther investigation I was notified by the mechanic that the entire front and rear subframes were badly rotted and rusty i than took the car to a mazda dealer for further inspection we’re I was notified that they would replace the front sub frame under recall but I would still have to pay out of pocket for all the other suspension components long story short I was given an estimate of thousands n thousands of dollars that I could not afford and was told the car is unsafe to drive mainly due to the rear subframe and components bein severely rusted I would just like to know why there hasent been a recall for the rear subframe on this vehicle when there has been hundreds of other complaints about the same thing I’m goin through about the same year make and model vehicle so now I am out of a vehicle due to it bein unsafe to drive that could cost me my job

The sensors on my alarm system will randomly activate, with alarm going off at 30 second intervals. The problem began approximately 6 months ago. I took the initiative to replace my cars battery, along with the battery in my fab. I really thought that solved my problem, as a first step fix. I began once again to identify the sound of my car alarm in multiple parking lots throughout time. I have been investigating this problem, and have read that this alarm problem has been sited by many Mazda 6 owners. I am the original owner of the 2009 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, and have 67,000 miles driven. I called the Repair Department at my dealership, and was told that it cost $185.00 for just the diagnosis. My auto insurance company policy price is based on using a secured vehicle. Right now I only can leave it unlocked in my garage, otherwise, my vehicle is at risk of being stolen.

The driver's side low beam headlight wiring harness melts and seems to be continuing problem. Even after replacing stock, (which melted,) with a better wiring harness it still began to melt and loose circuit, but like I said it was doing this before ever being replaced. Happens every couple months are so depending on amount of night driving. I have read several complaints about this happening to several owners of the same vehicle on the same drivers side with the same original harness and replacements doing this same melting and frequent on/off short circuit malfunctioning. Possibly causing a fire or fried wiring or loss of headlight causing unsafe conditions

* Drivers side (worst) and passenger side rear lower control arm. Both are available for inspection upon request. * The drivers side rear lower control arm rusted through and cracked near the point where it connects to the rear subframe. The right lower control arm did not yet visibly crack (it's still on the vehicle), but it is also severely rusted. If driven and either completely separated, loss of control as well as flying debris on the road would have been nearly certain. * I cannot drive the car to a dealer or service center. The problem is visibly obvious and online owners forums anecdotally indicate the problem is widespread. * The component is available for inspection. I have shown my mechanic and intend to take to a dealer. Because there was no accident or injury, thankfully, I have no cause for engaging police or insurance. * There was no warning/indicator in the vehicle. The first symptom of trouble was severe wear on the inside of the left rear tire. The vehicle then had a four-wheel alignment and suspension components were noted to be tight and adjusted into spec at that point. Some weeks later, we heard disturbing noises from the rear as we went over even small bumps in the road. We noticed the suspicious sound during a local drive and drove gently and directly home, so cannot say how much the partial break may have affected control at that point. Upon inspection, the rusted & cracked steel of the driver's side control arm was readily visible. Other notes: The rear subframe itself shows significant flaking and rust in comparison to the rest of the vehicle's undercarriage, but at least there appears to be more substance left to the metal of the subframe. Photos & measurements available upon request.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF THE DRIVER. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND PULLED TO THE RIGHT. IN ADDITION, THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO COAST THE VEHICLE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND NOTICED THAT THE WHEEL RIM WAS TILTED OUTWARDS, STRIKING THE FENDER WELL. ALSO, THE A ARM WAS DETACHED AND THE FRAME WAS CORRODED. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC INSPECTED THE VEHICLE AND STATED THAT A NEW SUBFRAME WOULD BE NEEDED. THE CONTACT CALLED PAUL MILLER FORD AT (888) 776-0844 (LOCATED AT 975 E NEW CIRCLE RD, LEXINGTON, KY 40505), BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 170,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

Car was bought used and I had no prior knowledge of sunroof being non-factory installed or that it was part of a possible recall. I was driving down a highway when the sunroof started flapping then flew off and shattered in the median. The glue is completely worn off and there is a lot of rust. This could be a severe danger for the cars behind me because it could’ve hit them and caused an accident. I’ve been trying to get it fixed for over a month and a half and the people at Webasto have not been helpful. I’ve talked to two people total and they haven’t called me back when they said they would. It’s unsafe for me to drive without a sunroof and it also causes damage to the interior of my car when it rains.

Passenger side dash is melting and causes a bad glare on the windshield making it hard to see, there is also a glare at night with the street lights. My wife has called several times over the past 5 years about the recall but was told they are not going to fix it and not to call back. I called the Mazda recall team on 10-4-21, they said they would replace the dash and connected me to a local dealer to set up an appointment to get the dash replaced and 3 other recalls fixed. The dealer ( Mazda of Cool Springs in Franklin TN) said they would not replace the dash due to the 10 year warranty period had expired. According to the news I found on the internet there is no limit on getting dash replaced. This is a safety hazard that several people are complaining about and needs to be fixed. Please help.

Vehicle jerks at low speed when accelerate and idle when accelerate, P0766 Code shows, engine noise and gears jump, when reverse the vehicle jerks.

ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE DRIVING IN A STRAIGHT LINE IN TRAFFIC AT LOW SPEED WITH TEMPERATURE IN THE 80'S. THE ENGINE BLOCK CRACKED AS A RESULT. THE ENGINE AND THE COMPLETE COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY HAD TO BE REPLACED. THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE HAD RISEN HIGH ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS BEFORE THIS, WHILE IDLING, DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS, AND DRIVING AT MODERATE AND HIGHWAY SPEEDS, TEMPERATURES RANGING FROM 50'S TO 90'S. WHEN THE OVERHEATING OCCURRED THE AIR CONDITIONING ALSO FAILED TO FUNCTION PROPERLY. I HAD COMPLAINED TO THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND THEY CLAIMED IT WAS A FUSE. THEY REPLACED THE FUSE, BUT IT DID NOT RESOLVE THE ISSUE. *TR

The driver's side low beam headlight wiring harness melts and seems to be continuing problem. Even after replacing stock, (which melted,) with a better wiring harness it still began to melt and loose circuit, but like I said it was doing this before ever being replaced. Happens every couple months are so depending on amount of night driving. I have read several complaints about this happening to several owners of the same vehicle on the same drivers side with the same original harness and replacements doing this same melting and frequent on/off short circuit malfunctioning. Possibly causing a fire or fried wiring or loss of headlight causing unsafe conditions

THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS GO BAD ON THIS CAR WHICH CAUSES THE CAR TO BELIEVE ONE OF THE DOORS IS OPEN WHEN IT IS NOT. THE DOME LIGHTS ARE DRIVEN BY THE DOOR ACTUATORS SENSING THAT A DOOR IS OPEN, SO WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING, THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WILL FLASH ON AND OFF. VERY DISTRACTING, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT. THE LIGHTS TURNING ON AND OFF ONLY HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR IS BEING DRIVEN, I HAVE NOT NOTICED IT WHEN STATIONARY. USUALLY IT OCCURS DURING TURNS AND THE LIGHTS STAY ON FOR A FEW SECONDS. THE DOOR ACTUATORS ARE A COMMON PROBLEM ON THIS CAR AND HAS MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ISSUE ONLINE. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS NOW. THE DOOR ACTUATOR BEING FAULTY ALSO CAUSES THE SECURITY ALARM TO GO OFF AND START SOUNDING THE CAR'S HORN SPORADICALLY. THE CAR WILL BE PARKED IN A DRIVEWAY WITH NOBODY AROUND THROUGH ALL HOURS OF THE DAY AND IT WILL GO OFF. ALTHOUGH NOT A SAFETY CONCERN LIKE THE PROBLEM WITH THE LIGHTS, IT IS STILL SYMPTOMATIC OF THE MALFUNCTIONING DOOR ACTUATORS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2009 MAZDA 6. WHILE THE CONTACT WAS PLACING AIR INTO THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE TIRE, HE FOUND THAT THE VALVE STEM WAS CORRODED AND FRACTURED. IN ADDITION, THE LOW TIRE PRESSURE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO DEAN PATTERSON CHEVROLET CADILLAC (101 PLEASANT VALLEY BLVD, ALTOONA, PA 16602, (814) 942-2222) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SENSOR AND VALVE STEM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000.

2009 MAZDA 6. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO TIRE SENSOR VALVE ISSUES. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED THE LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT ILLUMINATED FREQUENTLY. IT WAS DETERMINED, THE VALVE WAS CORRODED. THE VALVE WAS REPLACED WITH A CHEAPER ONE. WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCED A FLAT ON ANOTHER TIRE DUE TO CORROSION AND A CRACKED SENSOR VALVE. THE CONSUMER REPLACED ALL FOUR VALVES DUE TO CORROSION. *JB

WHEN I GOT THE VEHICLE I NOTICED THE DASHBOARD WAS REALLY STICKY AND I DIDN'T KNOW HOW BUT THEN I MET SOMEONE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE. MY BACK SEAT IS VERY LOOSE AND MAKES NOISES WHEN DRIVING

2009 MAZDA 6. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VARIOUS SAFETY RECALLS ISSUED FOR THIS VEHICLE. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED AFTER THE AIR BAG SENSOR WAS REPLACED, BUT THE AIRBAG LIGHT REMAINED ILLUMINATED. IT WAS REPROGRAMMED , BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE DOORS AND WINDOWS WOULD LOCK, LEAVING OCCUPANTS TRAPPED IN THE VEHICLE NOR WOULD THE VEHICLE START. THE HORN WOULD MALFUNCTION. THE HORN RELAY WAS TAKEN OUT DUE TO THE HORN UNEXPECTEDLY SOUNDING OFF. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES, BUT DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE. THE VIN NUMBER WAS INVALID. UPDATED 08/23/2017*JS

Vehicle jerks at low speed when accelerate and idle when accelerate, P0766 Code shows, engine noise and gears jump, when reverse the vehicle jerks.

Unknown Upon research I saw there was a prior recall Mazda Recall Number 6211B NHTSA Campaign Number 11V134000 About January of 2022 My service engine light has been turning on and off Around and about July 2022 I noticed a dark black colored puddle gathered wherever I would have my vehicle parked and there is a gas smell upon entering the vehicle. I took my vehicle to a mechanic and after their initial inspection I was informed that they would have to further inspect my vehicle but it would be costly because they would have to remove exhaust system to have a better visual. Mechanic also advised not to fill up my gas tank when refueling I believe my vehicle has the problem that the said recall describes

ON JANUARY 25, 2014, I HAD MY CAR SERVICE AT A S. FLORIDA MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR A 2013 RECALL ON THE DOOR LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS. THE RECALL STATED THAT THE SCREWS MAY BECOME LOOSE. IF ALL THREE DOOR LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS BECOME LOOSE AND FALL OUT, THE DOOR LATCH MECHANISM WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED, AND THE DOOR AJAR WARNING LIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE. CURRENTLY, I AM EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUE WITH MY DOORS AND THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT ILLUMINATING. IN ADDITION, DUE TO THIS ISSUE, MY BATTERY THAT I HAD REPLACED IN MAY 2020 DOES NOT WORK. MY CAR DID NOT START. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE NEAREST MAZDA DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED THE BATTERY BUT TOLD ME THAT MY DOOR LATCH ON 2 DOORS HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE MY CAR THINKS THE DOOR IS AJAR AND THIS CAUSES THE BATTERY TO DRAIN EVEN WITH THE CAR TURNED OFF. IT SOUNDS LIKE THESE ISSUES COULD BE ATTRIBUTED TO THE 2013 RECALL. FURTHERMORE, THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT MY CAR ALARM GOES OFF WITHOUT WARNING AND THE TECHNICIAN ATTRIBUTED THIS TO THE DOOR LATCH ISSUE. SO ALL OF THE ABOVE ISSUES CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE 2013 RECALL ON DOOR LATCHES. IT APPEARS THAT THERE IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT ON THE DOOR LATCHES. THEREFORE, THE DEALERSHIP SHOULD MAKE THE NECESSARY REPAIRS WITHOUT CHARGE TO ME. RIGHT NOW, MY CAR HAS BEEN AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR 1 WEEK AND 2 DAYS.

DRIVING ON HIGHWAY, I HAD TO BRAKE AND REALIZED I HAD TO STRUGGLE TO STEER THE VEHICLE PROPERLY. I HEARD A LOUD CLUNK WHEN RELEASING CLUTCH WHEN I HAD TO USE IT. MY STEERING WHEEL WAS OUT OF ALIGNMENT. WHEN I BROUGHT IN FOR SERVICE THEY SAID THE ENTIRE FRAME AND UNDERSIDE OF THE BODY HAD RUSTED OUT. I DO NOT HAVE PICTURES YET.

ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE DRIVING IN A STRAIGHT LINE IN TRAFFIC AT LOW SPEED WITH TEMPERATURE IN THE 80'S. THE ENGINE BLOCK CRACKED AS A RESULT. THE ENGINE AND THE COMPLETE COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY HAD TO BE REPLACED. THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE HAD RISEN HIGH ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS BEFORE THIS, WHILE IDLING, DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS, AND DRIVING AT MODERATE AND HIGHWAY SPEEDS, TEMPERATURES RANGING FROM 50'S TO 90'S. WHEN THE OVERHEATING OCCURRED THE AIR CONDITIONING ALSO FAILED TO FUNCTION PROPERLY. I HAD COMPLAINED TO THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND THEY CLAIMED IT WAS A FUSE. THEY REPLACED THE FUSE, BUT IT DID NOT RESOLVE THE ISSUE. *TR

I BOUGHT THIS CAR 2009 FROM MECHANIC 2 WEEKS AGO I RUN FOR 100MILES FOR TO AND FROM WORK ONLY.AFTER SUDDENLY AT LIGHT CAME SO I WENT TO CHECK NEAREST AUTO PARTS STORES WITH CODE READER FOR DIAGNOSTIC & HE SAID THERE MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. AFTER I AM ABLT TO START ENGINE BUT CAR WON'T DRIVE IN D MODE BUT R CAN WORK WITH JERK AND HORSE POWER GO UP TO 5000 UP. SO I AM GOING TO SEE WITH HAYES MAZDA IN KALAMAZOO. THEREFORE, PLEASE TAKE A SERIOUS ACTION OR INVESTIGATION INTO THIS MATTER

MY CAR STEERING VEERS TO THE LEFT CONSTANTLY. THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS WIRED WRONG AND DOESN'T WORK PROPERLY.THIS HAPPENS WHILE I'M DRIVING ALL THE TIME AND ITS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE IT CAUSES ME TO WRECK.

I BOUGHT THIS CAR 2009 FROM MECHANIC 2 WEEKS AGO I RUN FOR 100MILES FOR TO AND FROM WORK ONLY.AFTER SUDDENLY AT LIGHT CAME SO I WENT TO CHECK NEAREST AUTO PARTS STORES WITH CODE READER FOR DIAGNOSTIC & HE SAID THERE MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. AFTER I AM ABLT TO START ENGINE BUT CAR WON'T DRIVE IN D MODE BUT R CAN WORK WITH JERK AND HORSE POWER GO UP TO 5000 UP. SO I AM GOING TO SEE WITH HAYES MAZDA IN KALAMAZOO. THEREFORE, PLEASE TAKE A SERIOUS ACTION OR INVESTIGATION INTO THIS MATTER

2009 MAZDA 6 I TOURING AT MAKES AN INTENSE BUZZING VIBRATION SOUND AFTER SHIFTING TO DRIVE AT FIRST IGNITION OF THE DAY BEFORE ANY ACCELERATION. THE VIBRATION COMES FROM THE CENTER CUPHOLDERS IN THE FRONT, WHICH IN TURN IS FROM THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ITSELF. THIS IS A RECURRING ISSUE FROM DAY ONE. *TR

I PURCHASED A 2009 MAZDA6 ON 3/26/2009. FOUR DAYS AFTER THE PURCHASE THE NEW VEHICLE WAS IN THE SHOP TO REPLACE THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CASTING HAD A SMALL WEEP HOLE IN IT WHICH WAS CAUSING A LEAK. DEALER HAD TO REPLACE THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. FOR THE FIRST 4 WEEKS I OWNED THE CAR IT WAS IN THE GARAGE FOR 3 WEEKS. *TR

I WAS REARED ED 2 YEARS AGO IN SEPTEMBER. WHEN I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN TO GET FIXED THE SEATBELTS WERE CHECKED AND IN WORKING ORDER. A COUPLE WEEKS LATER I REMOVED MY SON'S CAR SEAT TO SWEEP OUT THE CAR AND TO WASH HIS SEAT. AS I WAS PUTTING HIS SEAT BACK IN I NOTICED THE BELT WOULD NOT LOCK. SO I MOVED IT OVER TO THE PASSENGER SIDE AS MY OLDEST ALWAYS SAT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. A COUPLE WEEKS AFTER THAT THE REAR PASSENGER SEATBELT WOULDN'T LOCK. NOW I HAVE A INFANT IN THE VEHICLE WENT TO PUT HER CARSEAT BEHIND THE DRIVERS SIDE. WORKED UP UNTIL A WEEK AGO I NOTICED TODAY AS I WAS TAKING HER SEAT OUT OF THE BASE IT WAS MOVING A LOT. I YANKED ON THE SEATBELT NOW IT WON'T LOCK. I HAVE READ COMPLAINTS ON THIS AND RECALLS ON SOME CARS FOR THIS.