2002 Mercedes-Benz E320

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ E320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SUN ROOF WAS UNABLE TO BE OPENED AND THAT THE SUN ROOF GLASS HAD BECOME INDENTED. NEITHER THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER HAD BEEN NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V918000 (VISIBILITY) FOR ANOTHER MERCEDES-BENZ VEHICLE WHICH SHE LINKED TO THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 200,000. *BF*JB

NHTSA ID

11352956

Incident

Aug 1, 2020

Mileage

200,000 mi

SRS LIGHT IS ON

NHTSA ID

11110169

Incident

Jul 1, 2010

Mileage

67,000 mi

ON APRIL 25, 2016, I NOTICED THAT A WHITE BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING. I WAS DRIVING ON A CITY STREET AT ABOUT 10 MPH IN TRAFFIC. DESPITE THE WHITE WARNING LIGHT, THE FOOT BRAKES STILL HELD. IT SAID "SERVICE BRAKES , VISIT WORKSHOP". I IMMEDIATELY DROVE TO THE SOLE AUTHORISED AGENT IN TRINIDAD, WHO RAN SOME DIAGNOSTIC TESTS ON THE CAR. THEY INDICATED THAT I NEEDED TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE SBC UNIT AT AN APPROXIMATE COST OF USD 3,000.00 PLUS USD 365.00 FOR LABOR. THIS, I COULD NOT AFFORD AS THE TOTAL COST IS QUITE EXORBITANT AND SURPRISING. AFTER LEAVING THE DEALERSHIP AND TOWARDS DRIVING HOME, THE RED BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR NOW LIT UP AND I HEARD A LOUD WARNING SIGNAL. THE WARNING SIGN SAID TO STOP THE CAR, WHICH I IMMEDIATELY DID AND MANAGED TO PARK THE CAR AT A FRIEND'S HOME AS I COULD NOT REACH MY HOME. THE CAR NOW HAD VERY LITTLE OR NO FOOT BRAKES AND I HAD TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL RIGHT DOWN IN ORDER TO STOP THE CAR. I WAS DRIVING AT ABOUT 10MPH IN CITY TRAFFIC AND THIS "NO BRAKES" SITUATION RESULTED IN EXTREME DANGER TO BOTH ME, MY WIFE, PEDESTRIANS AND OTHER TRAFFIC. I WAS LATER INFORMED THAT THESE SBC UNITS WERE FOUND TO BE DEFECTIVE AND WERE PREVIOUSLY RECALLED BY MERCEDES BENZ, BUT I AS AN OWNER WAS NEVER NOTIFIED. IN ADDITION, THE SOLE AGENTS IN TRINIDAD FOR MERCEDES BENZ IS REFUSING TO HONOR THE RECALL AND CHANGE THE SBC UNIT FREE OF CHARGE. I NEED URGENT ASSISTANCE IN THIS MATTER EITHER FROM MERCEDES BENZ USA OR MERCEDES BENZ GERMANY AS I AM A HAPLESS VICTIM OF THIS MERCEDES BENZ SBC RECALL. PLEASE NOTE THAT EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WAS PURCHASED NEW IN SEPTEMBER 2005, IT HAS BARELY COMPLETED 58,000 MILES. SINCE THE CAR WAS BOUGHT, IT HAS ONLY BEEN MAINTAINED AND SERVICED BY THE SOLE MERCEDES BENZ AGENT IN TRINIDAD.MERCEDES BENZ RECALL NUMBER 2005070007 AND 2005110001 AND/OR 2004050014

NHTSA ID

10863864

Incident

Apr 25, 2016

Mileage

58,100 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ E320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FUSE BOX AND THE COMPUTER BURNED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 83,000.

NHTSA ID

10811702

Incident

Nov 23, 2015

Mileage

83,000 mi

WHILE DECELERATING ONTO HIGHWAY FROM ON RAMP, THE TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO SLIP OUT OF GEAR. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. IT'S IS A SCARY SITUATION TO LOSE POWER AS YOU MERGE INTO HIGHWAY. I COASTED TO BRAKE DOWN LANE. I SHIFTED BACK INTO PARK GEAR TO RESET, THEN BACK INTO DRIVE GEAR TO RESUME TRAVEL. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWO MORE TIMES SINCE. CAN BE A DANGEROUS IN HEAVY TRAFFIC ROADWAYS.

NHTSA ID

10717564

Incident

Apr 10, 2013

Mileage

118,000 mi

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 MERCEDES BENZ E320. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THERE WAS A GASOLINE FUEL ODOR EMITTING FROM THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ID

10669287

Incident

Dec 31, 2014

THE CAR STARTED HAVING VERY STRONG VIBRATIONS AT IDLE SPEED WHEN CAR IS IN REVERSE OR DRIVE AND STOPPED AT A STANDSTILL WITH BRAKE. TOOK IT TO SHOP AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLES MOTOR MOUNTS WERE IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT, TO THE TUNE OF OVER 600.00. ONCE AGAIN I HAVE READ A SIMILAR COMPLAINT IN THE DATABASE AND REALLY WANT TO KNOW WHY MERCEDES HAS NOT ACKNOWLEDGED THE FACT THAT THIS IS A TREND IN THE VEHICLES AND COME UP WITH SOME TYPE OF RECALL OR FIX FOR THE SITUATION... MAYBE MOST OWNERS JUST UNBEGRUDGINGLY PAY WHATEVER NECESSARY TO HAVE THEIR CARS FIXED OBLIVIOUS TO THE FACT THAT MERCEDES CLAIM TO FAME IS QUALITY,RELIABILITY AND LONGEVITY. I FOR ONE DO NOT THINK THAT A CAR COSTING OVER 60,000.00 SHOULD BE PLAGUED BY SO MANY DEFICIENT MANUFACTURING PROBLEMS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10661030

Incident

Nov 16, 2010

Mileage

140,000 mi

THE TEMPERATURE LED HAS COMPLETELY GONE OUT AND THE CLOCK/GEAR SELECTION LED IS UNREADABLE... I BELIEVE SEEING ANOTHER COMPLAINT OF THE SAME TYPE IN THE DATABASE, DON'T REMEMBER THE MODEL BUT WAS WONDERING WHY IF THIS IS A TREND DOES MERCEDES NOT HAVE A FIX FOR THE SITUATION. I REALIZE THAT THE WARRANTY IS ONLY GOOD FOR SO LONG BUT IF OTHER CARS ALL HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEMS IT SEEMS AS IF MERCEDES WOULD WANT TO PROTECT THE REPUTATION OF QUALITY DURABILITY AND EXCELLENCE BEHIND THEIR NAME. *TR

NHTSA ID

10661028

Incident

Nov 30, 2005

Mileage

92,000 mi

Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Complaint There are several types of complaint about noises or poor windshield wiper wiping performance: A: Wiper blades squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. • Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades • Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged. Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. • Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 • Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts