2010 Subaru Outback Problems

It is a known issue with subarus of this year that the engine will stall at random intervals when stopping, weather at a stop sign or stop light, warm or cold, fast stops or regular stopping. There is no consistency to it, completely random. There are no warning lights that appear, I have not taken this car to the dealer because after purchasing it I cannot afford to take it to the dealer. I purchased this car used for my elderly parents and this is a disturbing problem that could get them hurt or killed. Why has this KNOWN issue not been recalled? there are multiple service bulletins reported to NHTSA addressing this issue but no recall?

Vehicle has an automatic transmission and it stalls when stopping. There is no warning light on the dash. This happens more frequently when the vehicle is warm, in early operation it may only hesitate or run rough while stopping. A warm a stop is more likely to stall the vehicle than a slow stop. Hard braking at operating temperature will stall the vehicle without fail. This has been happening since I bought it and it occurs with each drive every day.

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

I see many many complaints about the head gasket material Subaru used was not compatible with the very fluid that is needed for the cars engine to not blow up.....coolant. Subaru knows the head gasket material is ruined by the coolant it needs but has left us consumers to deal with a very costly, devastating issue such as what I just want through and am still in the middle of a fight with dealer who sold me a car for 10995 and I had it 2 weeks....coolant blew everywhere had to fight with dealership to get them to tow it. I was yelled at, hung up on, calls not returned all while I have no car no way to work and as a [XXX] and a child to raise, I do not have options and live by a thread and paycheck to paycheck.....It should not be allowed that Subaru doesn't fix that since it is a manufacturing defect that they made it incompatible with the coolant it needs. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact's father owned a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact's father received recall notifications of NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V001000 (Air Bags) and would like to be removed from the recall distribution list because he no longer owns the vehicle, and the vehicle was exported to Canada. The dealer and the manufacturer were not contacted.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that he received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V007000 (Air Bags) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. VIN tool showed no recall associated with the VIN. Consumer would like to cancel the investigation.

We experienced a steering failure which could have led to a very serious accident. Returning on a freeway after purchasing groceries we heard a kind of rattle rhat seemed to come from behind the hub of the steering wheel. We made it home but as we pulled into our driveway the steering failed completely. The steering wheel spun around like a pinwheel, no resistance whatsoever and absolutely no effect on the car’s steering. If this had happened on the freeway I hate to think what might have happened. The car had to be towed to the local Subaru dealer where it took 17 days to repair the vehicle. We were lucky. It could well have been a disaster.

EXTREME SHIMMY / VIBRATION IN FRONT END CAUSE STEERING WHEEL TO SHIMMY AGGRESSIVELY. THIS EXPERIENCE STARTED ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO, THE CAR HAS APRPOXIMATELY 150K MILES. WHEN DRIVING CAR OVER 40 MILES AN HOUR THE ENTIRE FRONT END SHAKES LIKE A VERY OUT OF BALANCE TIRE OR THE FEELING OF A WARPED ROTOR WHEN BRAKING. THE SHIMMY CAN BE SEEN IN THE STEERING WHEEL BOUNCING, AND FELT THROUGH THE FLOOR AND SEATS.TIRES AND BRAKES HAVE BEEN INSPECTED AND THERE IS NO PROBLEM. UPON SEARCHING THE INTERNET I SEE THIS IS COMMON PROBLEM. WHY IS THIS NO A RECALL? I AM FEARFUL OF DRIVING THIS VEHICLE.

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

On Saturday, August 9, 2025, my brakes failed at highway speed. My vehicle's stopping distance was severely increased, forcing me to perform an emergency swerve into the leftmost lane to avoid rear-ending a truck. The maneuver was extremely hazardous, as it occurred in a construction zone with concrete barriers and no shoulder, leaving no safe escape path and endangering myself and others. I confirmed the cause was a catastrophic failure of the four-way brake line union block due to severe corrosion. There were no warning lamps or symptoms prior to the incident; the failure was sudden and total. I found that this defect is difficult to spot during inspections because the part is hidden by a plastic panel. The failed union block and corroded lines were removed and are available for inspection upon request. My research shows this is a widespread issue and the exact failure mode covered by Subaru Recall WQK-47R for 2005-2009 models. This known safety defect persists in the 2010-2014 generation, which is not covered by the recall. Prohibitive dealer repair costs are forcing unsafe workarounds. This defect presents an unreasonable risk to public safety, and I urge the NHTSA to investigate.

This is not about my car, but instead many different cars. When a cars lights are set to it's parking lights or running lights position, often located on the turn signal stalk, at night it appears to the driver that their headlights are on, when in fact only the "parking lights are on in front. This is a problem, but not what I'm reporting. When in the parking light position (at night), it appears the headlights are on because there's some light out front AND the instrument cluster is lit up as well. Here's the defect in design, the brake lights are NOT on, completely dark at the rear of the vehicle, so drivers are driving on the highway thinking their headlights and brakes lights are on, when they're not. When the parking light position is active, it should include the brake lights. Can't imagine how many rear-enders are because of this design flaw. *The rotating light switch on turn signal stalks often get unknowingly rotated out of Auto or the headlight position when the turn signal is repeatedly used.

About three years ago; there was a recall for the headlights. Subaru did replace the headlights, but I have replaced the headlights two additional times since then. And I currently have a headlight out a marker light out. I also last year had all of my marker lights burn out.

I own a 2010 Subaru Outback. While parked at a college in Medford, Oregon, it suffered a spontaneous electrical fire that originated inside the driver's door. This is the exact failure described in Subaru Safety Recall Campaign WQE-41. The NHTSA website states the recall was completed on this VIN, meaning the recall repair itself has failed and caused a total loss of the vehicle at this time as we are unsure if it’s fixable or even worth fixing. Fire dept did come out and confirm fire was out completely and instructed me not to drive car at all until it could get looked at.

This car is a very well-maintained, low-use vehicle with regular oil changes and routine maintenance performed on schedule. Early in this drive, I noticed an unusual hissing sound as I approached a stop. When I tried to brake, I realized my brakes didn't seem to be responding. I pressed the brake pedal harder and realized that with 50-100 pounds of pressure (guess), I could slow the car down. As I came to a stop, the engine died. I restarted the car, and it died again immediately. After the following restart, I realized I could manually keep the RPM up in neutral while at stops, and press with significant force to get the car to stop. Had I not been comfortable two foot driving or understood the issue, this surely would have resulted in a crash of some sort. The car indicated a check engine light, loss of traction control, a flashing BRAKE light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took the car immediately to a local shop where they identified the problem as a vacuum leak at the brake booster. The plastic piece that the hose clamps onto had cracked off, leading to this problem. This make and model does not seem to have a check valve downstream of this component.

Engine subframe catastrophic failure (left side) due to severe corrosion. Lower control arm detached resulting in erratic handling and pulling. Car unsafe to drive and expensive to repair at ~$2200. Did research and found to be a very common complaint for 2010-2014. Recall needs to be issued to replace corroded subframes.

2010 Outback Subframe or cradle Subaru OEM # 50527AJ01A is a vital safety component and as designed and installed completely supports the weight of the engine and transmission - I have excessive rust and Corrosion of sub frame. This should be a recall. A google search shows this is a common issue for this model. Please review my complaint

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH AND APPROACHING A STOP SIGN, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO HESITATE AND MADE A CLUNKING SOUND. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED TWICE WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP. THE CONTACT HAD TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL WITH FORCE TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM STALLING. THE CONTACT DROVE THE VEHICLE TO GANLEY SUBARU OF BEDFORD (123 BROADWAY AVE, BEDFORD, OH 44146) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 139,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT EVERY TIME THE VEHICLE CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP, THE IGNITION TURNED OFF AND IMMEDIATELY RESTARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER AND TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 153,000.

MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE PAST 6 YEARS I WILL BE DRIVING AND IF USING MY CRUISE IT STOPS WORKING AND I HAVE FLASHING LIGHTS , BRAKE AND CRUISE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF, CHECK ENGINE AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT STAY ON. THESE LIGHTS STAY ON FROM 1 DAY TO ALMOST 2 WEEKS BEFORE THEY GO OUT. I HAVE HAD THEM CHECKED MANY TIMES BY SUBARU DEALER AND OTHER MECHANIC SHOPS WITH NO RESOLUTION EXCEPT TO CLEAR THE CODES

11/21/2020 AT OIL TEMP LIGHT, BRAKE LIGHT, AND VEHICLE DYNAMICS CONTROL LIGHTS COME ON WHILE DRIVING AFTER AROUND 30 MINUTES ON A MAJOR ROUTE (NOT HIGHWAY) AFTER ALREADY BEING "FIXED" BY A DEALERSHIP. AT THE END OF AUGUST I BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALER BECAUSE ALL 3 LIGHTS HAD COME ON AFTER I HAD ARRIVED NEAR MY PLACE OF WORK. I HAD DRIVEN FOR 35 MINUTES ON THE HIGHWAY AND CRUISING LOCAL STREETS FOR A SPOT WHEN THEY CAME ON. WHEN I FIRST GOT BACK TO MY VEHICLE AFTER WORK (I HAD PARKED AND WAS WAITING UNTIL END OF DAY TO DEAL WITH IT) AND TURNED ON MY CAR - NO LIGHTS. I WAS NEARLY HOME WHEN ALL 3 CAME BACK ON (35 MINTUES OF HIGHWAY DRIVING). TOOK TO DEALER THAT WEEKEND WHERE THEY REPLACED ENGINE AIR FILTER, CABIN AIR FILTER, CVT- VALVE BODY AND BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FOR $1934.97 ON 9/21 THE LIGHTS CAME BACK ON AFTER DRIVING FOR AROUND 20 MINUTES ON A 2 LANE ROUTE. DEALER HAD THE CAR FOR 1 WEEK AND ALL THEY COULD FIND / DO WAS CHANGE A BRAKE LIGHT BULB.

I own a 2010 Subaru Outback. While parked at a college in Medford, Oregon, it suffered a spontaneous electrical fire that originated inside the driver's door. This is the exact failure described in Subaru Safety Recall Campaign WQE-41. The NHTSA website states the recall was completed on this VIN, meaning the recall repair itself has failed and caused a total loss of the vehicle at this time as we are unsure if it’s fixable or even worth fixing. Fire dept did come out and confirm fire was out completely and instructed me not to drive car at all until it could get looked at.

My daughter was concerned with the car making strange squeaking sounds on turning and braking and so I met her where her car was parked in a lot and drove it for less than 1 minute and could tell something was very wrong and that it didn't seem safe to drive home. My husband came to check as well and zeroed in on the problem being the front driver's side tire/suspension. Fortunately the Subaru dealership was less than .5 away and my husband drove it there (with flashers on). It was determined by the dealership that the subframe had rusted through (we have photos uploaded below) and a new one was ordered and replaced within the week. The materials and labor for that alone cost $1944.37. Control arm bushings, rear toe arms, and alignment were also completed. The total cost of the repair was $3281.14.

While driving at highway speed the tire separated at the seam of the sidewall and tread. Tire tread depth was between 9–9.5/32nd on the tire. 225/60 r17 tire. Because of the complete separation of the tire and how sudden the separation occurred, it caused the vehicle to lose control, thankfully the driver was able to get control of the vehicle and get it start safely. The safety of all occupants and vehicles on the roadway were put at risk. Tire was taken to the retailer (car dealership), retailer and consumer contacted the manufacturer who stated this is not a manufacture defect.

2015 SUBARU OUTBACK. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO REIMBURSEMENT FOR VEHICLE REPAIRS. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE REAR BEARINGS WERE GONE AT 65,000 MILES. THE PURCHASED TIRED WER BALD AT 25,000 MILES. THE CONSUMER BELIEVES THIS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. *JS

A CRACK APPEARED AT THE CENTER BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD DURING HIGHWAY DRIVING AND HAS PROGRESSIVELY INCREASED IN SIZE TO OVER 20" HORIZONTALLY. THERE WAS NO APPARENT ROCK OR DEBRIS THAT HIT THE WINDSHIELD AND THERE IS NO VISIBLE EVIDENCE OF AN OBJECT PITTING/MARKING THE WINDSHIELD TO CAUSE THE CRACK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AN UNKNOWN SPEED IN THE RAIN, THE REAR WIPER FAILED TO FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO LOCAL DEALER BROWN'S MANASSAS SUBARU LOCATED AT 9018 LIBERIA AVE, MANASSAS, VA 20110, (703) 361-5866, WHERE THE FAILURE WAS NOT ABLE TO BE DETERMINED. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE WAS STILL BEING EXPERIENCED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,437.

LUG STUDS BREAK OFF WHEN REMOVING TO CHANGE TIRE. I HAD A FLAT AND 1 STUD BROKE OFF. I WAS LEFT DRIVING WITH ONLY 4 STUDS. THIS HAS NOW HAPPENED ON 2 OF THE FOUR WHEELS. WHEN INQUIRING WITH THE DEALER I WAS TOLD THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM. THEY ACTUALLY SUGGESTED SELLING ME MORE REPAIR STUDS THAN I NEEDED AS THEY WERE SURE MORE WOULD BREAK OFF.

CONTIPRO CONTACT 225/60R17 TIRES WERE MOUNTED AS REPLACEMENTS 11/17/13. TIRES WERE ROTATED AND MAINTAINED BY DEALER ON A REGULAR BASIS. PRIMARILY HIGHWAY/CITY DRIVING. I HAVE NOT HIT ANY FOD OR POTHOLES - THERE HAS BEEN NO UNUSUAL TRAUMA TO THE TIRES. AFTER 13 MONTHS, 18K MILES, THE LEFT FRONT TIRE'S INNER SIDEWALL SUFFERED A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. CONTINENTAL REFUSED TO PRO-RATE OR MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENT FOR THE PREMATURE DEMISE OF THIS TIRE. BECAUSE THE CAR IS AWD, I WAS FORCED TO PURCHASE 4 NEW TIRES. I BELIEVE THERE IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT IN THIS BRAND/MODEL OF TIRE. LUCKILY, I WAS ONLY DRIVING 25 MPH WHEN THE TIRE FAILED. I HAVE NOW RESEARCHED AND DISCOVERED THAT THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THIS TYPE OF TIRE FAILURE FOR CONTIPRO CONTACT 225/60R17. ONE REPORT INDICATES THAT CONTINENTAL REPLACED THE TIRE UNDER WARRANTY AT 18 MOS, HOWEVER, IT APPEARS THAT CONTINENTAL IS AWARE OF A MANUFACTURING DEFECT AND HAS NOW LIMITED THE WARRANTY PERIOD TO 12 MOS. THEY HAVE APPARENTLY CONTINUED TO EXPERIENCE PROBLEMS WITH THE INNER SIDEWALL FAILURE BECAUSE THE TIRE IS NO LONGER OFFERED. I BELIEVE THIS TIRE SHOULD BE RECALLED IN THE INTEREST OF CONSUMER SAFETY. *TR

I own a 2010 Subaru Outback. While parked at a college in Medford, Oregon, it suffered a spontaneous electrical fire that originated inside the driver's door. This is the exact failure described in Subaru Safety Recall Campaign WQE-41. The NHTSA website states the recall was completed on this VIN, meaning the recall repair itself has failed and caused a total loss of the vehicle at this time as we are unsure if it’s fixable or even worth fixing. Fire dept did come out and confirm fire was out completely and instructed me not to drive car at all until it could get looked at.

AT APPROXIMATELY 6:35 A.M. CST I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. I RECALL HEARING WHAT I THOUGHT WAS A WOMAN SCREAMING, IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWED BY THE SOUND OF TIRES SCREECHING AS WHEN BRAKES ARE QUICKLY APPLIED. I GLANCED INTO MY REARVIEW MIRROR AND DID NOT SEE ANY ONCOMING HEADLIGHTS. IT WAS THEN THAT MY CAR WAS HIT FROM BEHIND. I HAVE NO RECOLLECTION OF BEING THROWN BACKWARD FROM THE REAR IMPACT, OR BEING THROWN FORWARD FROM THE IMPACT OF HITTING THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME, OR STOPPING. I ALSO DO NOT RECALL THE DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIR BAG IN MY STEERING WHEEL. MY NEXT THOUGHT WAS REALIZING THAT I WAS IN A RECLINING POSITION AND SEEING THE BENT HOOD OF MY CAR WHILE LOOKING THROUGH THE RIGHT SIDE OF MY WINDSHIELD. I WAS IN A GREAT DEAL OF PAIN. MY LOWER BACK WAS BURNING AND I HAD GREAT PAIN IN MY LEFT RIBCAGE. I COULD ALSO TELL I HAD MY BREATH KNOCKED OUT OF ME. MY INJURIES INCLUDED THE FOLLOWING: 4 BROKEN RIBS ON THE LEFT SIDE (#6, 7, 8, AND 9) LOWER LUMBAR STRAIN BRUISES ACROSS MY ABDOMEN, RIGHT HIP, INSIDE OF LEFT CALF, INSIDE OF RIGHT CALF, OUTSIDE OF MY LEFT LEG SPRAIN OF RIGHT ANKLE GASH ON THE FRONT OF MY LEFT LEG I HAVE A PICTURE OF THE BROKEN SEAT IF DESIRED. I REALIZE THAT THE ACCIDENT OCCURRED SOME TIME AGO BUT I DO NOT RECALL IF I SENT THIS INFORMATION TO YOU OR NOT. *TR

DROVE MY CAR A FEW MILES AND THEN STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT ON A 4 LANE ROAD IN THE CITY. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN I STEPPED ON THE THROTTLE AND GOT NO RESPONSE. PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN PARK AND BACK INTO DRIVE AND STILL NOTHING. TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON AND ENGINE RESPONDED TO THROTTLE.

MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE - VEHICLE HAS STARTED STALLING WHEN COMING TO A STOP OR SLOWING DOWN WHILE STARTING TO TURN. THIS HAS ALMOST CAUSED SEVERAL ACCIDENTS FOR MY WIFE TURNING OUT ONTO THE HIGHWAY. I WAS TOLD BY A SUBARU MECHANIC THAT SUBARU ISSUED A RECALL, BUT I CAN'T FIND IT. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS NOW.

MY SONS (7YRS OLD) WAS SITTING ON PASSENGER SIDE REAR SEAT WITH BOOSTER SEAT AND SEAT BELT ON. WHEN WE GOT HOME, I SHUT OFF THE ENGINE AND HE UN-BUCKLE THE SEAT BELT AND WAS PLAYING IN THE CAR. NEXT THING I KNOW THE CAR (UN-BUCKLE) SEAT BELT WRAP HIM AROUND.(I CAN FORWARD PHOTO OF HOW THE SEAT BELT WRAP HIM AROUND(LIKE A KNOT).. HE WAS UNABLE TO FREE HIMSELF. I TRIED AND WAS UNABLE TO PULL THE SEAT BELT LOOSE. I EVEN LET THE SAFETY(SEAT) BELT "RELAX" BUT STILL UNABLE TO PULL EXTRA LENGTH OF BELT FROM THE "C" PILLAR TO LOOSEN THE "KNOT" AROUND MY SON.....AS HE TRIED TO FREE HIMSELF BY "TWISTING HIS BODY AROUND, THE SEAT BELT TIGHTEN WHENEVER THE "KNOT" AROUND HIS BODY GETS SMALLER....I TOOK ME ALMOST 3-5 MINUTES TO FREE HIM FROM THIS "KNOW" BY PUSHING THE KNOT DOWN PASS HIS LEG (LIKE SOMEONE TAKING OFF THEIR PANTS)..... I FELT SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT WITH THIS SEAT BELT AS THERE WERE NO WAY FOR ME TO PULL EXTRA LENGTH OF SEATBELT TO LOOSEN THE "KNOT". AS YOU CAN SEE, IF ANY ADULT NOT AROUND, A CHILD MAY GET PANIC AND TRY TO FREE HIMSELF/HERSELF BY SLIDING DOWN (IE.. LIKE TAKING OFF A T-SHIRT) THAT THIS BELT DESIGN THAT AUTOMATICALLY TIGHTEN (AND DOES NOT LOOSEN WHEN RELAXED) WOULD POST A CHOKING HAZARD, PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW I CAN UPLOAD/SEND THE PHOTO OF THE "KNOT" TO YOU? *TR

WE JUST PURCHASED THIS AUTO AND ARE VERY UPSET WITH THE NEW HEAD RESTRAINTS. I HAVE BEEN TO A DOCTOR AND CHIROPRACTOR ALREADY FOR BACK AND NECK PAIN DUE TO THE FORWARD ANGLE OF THE RESTRAINT. MY WIFE HAS SEEN A CHIROPRACTOR ONCE ALSO FOR THE SAME REASON. CAN WE PURCHASE REPLACEMENT HEAD RESTRAINTS SOMEWHERE. THESE NEW RESTRAINTS HAD TO BE REMOVED FROM OUR CAR NOW CAUSING MORE DAMAGE IF WE ARE INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT. PLEASE HELP. *TR