2003 Toyota Celica

Lf wheel bearing is gone and axle is only thing holding on the wheel. The steering knuckle is damaged, caliper/bracket is damaged, rotors damaged, axle damaged. Extremely unsafe to drive

NHTSA ID

11447643

Incident

Oct 30, 2021

Belt tensioner won't retract when trying to replace serpentina belt. Most likely a defective part , original. Have to creative finding other ways to replace belt without breaking the tensioner.

NHTSA ID

11435586

Incident

Oct 4, 2021

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 TOYOTA CELICA. WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE, THE HORN WAS NOT ALWAYS AUDIBLE WHEN PRESSING THE CENTER OF THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE AIR BAG SENSOR INDICATOR REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE INDEPENDENT MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE COIL SPRING INSIDE THE STEERING COLUMN WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET REPAIRED. THE LOCAL DEALER (SOUTH BAY TOYOTA, 310-323-7800) WAS CALLED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,476.

NHTSA ID

11060777

Incident

Dec 14, 2017

Mileage

160,476 mi

AIR BAG LIGHT STAYS ON. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN A CRASH. I'VE HAD THE SENSOR RESET 4 X, IT STILL FLASHES AND STAYS ON.

NHTSA ID

11014826

Incident

Jan 1, 2012

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 TOYOTA CELICA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD EXHIBIT AN ABNORMAL AND CONTINUAL SQUEAKING WHEN THERE WAS ANY TYPE OF PRECIPITATION. THE SERPENTINE BELT WAS REPLACED FOUR TIMES BY A LOCAL MECHANIC AND THE HYDRAULIC TENSIONER WAS REPLACED TWICE. THE REPAIRS WOULD CORRECT THE FAILURE FOR APPROXIMATELY ONE MONTH BEFORE RECURRING. ONCE THE ENGINE WAS HOT, THE NOISE WOULD CEASE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 129,000 AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 105,000.

NHTSA ID

10389698

Incident

Sep 18, 2009

Mileage

105,000 mi

I HAD TO HAVE CLUTCH REPLACED AT 25,77 MILES ON MY 2003 TOYOTA CELICA GT PURCHASED NEW APRIL 2003. AGAIN I HAD TO REPLACE CLUTCH @ 56,089. FROM THE DAY I PURCHASED THIS CAR I HAD PROBLEMS WITH PUTTING CAR IN GEAR AND COMPLAINED TO DEALER, WHO SAID THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. I'VE DRIVEN MANUAL TOYOTA CARS SINCE 1966 AND NEVER HAD ANY CLUTCH REPAIRS ON ANY OF MY TOYOTAS. I HAD OVER 144,000 MILES ON MY 1987 TOYOTA MR2 WHEN I TRADED IT IN 1994. I THINK IT IS EXCESSIVE TO HAVE A TOTAL OF 3 CLUTCHES AT 56,089. *TR

NHTSA ID

10336426

Incident

Aug 3, 2005

Mileage

25,767 mi

PURCHASED NEW 2003 CELICA GTS. FROM DEALER. 26,398 MILES PAINT BUBBLING ON ALL WHEELS. DEALER/FACTORY REP. WOULD NOT REPLACE WHEELS. REPAINTED INSTEAD AND STATED " THEY WOULD REPLACE IF ISSUE HAPPENED AGAIN. 42,197 MILES PAINT BUBBLING AGAIN ON ALL WHEELS. FACTORY REP. REFUSED TO REPLACE/REPAIR." DEALER WILL NOT REPLACE EITHER. *TR

NHTSA ID

10230199

Incident

May 31, 2008

Mileage

25,684 mi

THIS MAY BE RELATED TO NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER : 03V074000 PER ORIGINAL RECALL, FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY WAS REPLACED BY TOYOTA DEALERSHIP ON 07/08/2003. ON 10/08/2006, THE SAME PROBLEM WAS ENCOUNTERED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO PUT FUEL IN THE VEHICLE. FUELING IS NOW DIFFICULT AND VERY TIME CONSUMING. ONLY ABOUT ONE-TENTH OF A GALLON CAN BE PUMPED BEFORE THE FUEL PUMP AUTOMATICALLY SHUTS OFF. THIS APPEARS TO BE CAUSED BY FUEL BACKING UP IN THE FUEL INLET PIPE AND FUEL SPLASHING BACK OUT. TOYOTA HAS BEEN CONTACTED AND A SERVICE APPOINTMENT SCHEDULED AT A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. HOWEVER, I GOT THE IMPRESSION THEY ARE RELUCTANT TO REMEDY THIS FREE OF CHARGE SINCE THE PROBLEM WAS SUPPOSEDLY FIXED 3 YEARS AGO. *NM

NHTSA ID

10170894

Incident

Oct 8, 2006

Mileage

65,700 mi

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain, frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.

Toyota vehicles are currently protected with RapgardTM protective film designed to protect the horizontal painted surfaces. This material protects from acid rain, environmental fallout, and rail contamination. Follow the Removal Procedure in this bulletin to remove the RapgardTM protective film within 90 days from initial application.

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.