2000 Toyota Celica

The contact owns a 2000 Toyota Celica equipped with Dextero Touring, DTR1 Tires Size 205/55R16 91H, and DOT: Y9JTCHX1816. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 55 MPH she observed a noise emanating from the undercarriage of the vehicle. The vehicle was steered to the side of the road where the vehicle was inspected but no failure was found. The contact continued to drive at approximately 55 MPH and observed a popping sound emanating from the inner carriage. The vehicle was steered to the side of the road where she observed the rear passenger tire separating. The tire was replaced with assistance from a passerby. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle failure mileage was approximately 133,621 and the tire failure mileage was 33,000

NHTSA ID

11570739

Incident

Feb 1, 2024

Mileage

133,621 mi

The contact owns a 2000 Toyota Celica. The contact stated that the daytime running lights failed to turn off as needed, causing the battery to be drained. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer where it was diagnosed that the running lights needed to be adjusted. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the headlight switch needed to be replaced. The contact stated that the failure was related to NHTSA Campaign Number: 04V566000 (Exterior Lighting). The manufacturer was notified of the failure however, no additional assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 123,268.

NHTSA ID

11465031

Incident

Jan 1, 2004

Mileage

123,268 mi

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD IN THE VEHICLE I JUST BOUGHT AND WAS GOING THE SPEED LIMIT AND THE ENGINE LITERALLY BROKE INTO PIECES AND OIL WENT EVERYWHERE

NHTSA ID

11413894

Incident

Apr 25, 2021

Mileage

228,298 mi

A TRUCK TIRE WENT OUT AND LOCKED UP MY ENGINE OF MY CELICA

NHTSA ID

11319270

Incident

Mar 25, 2010

Mileage

54,000 mi

I AM TRYING TO RENEW MY REGISTRATION FOR MY 2000 TOYOTA AND IT DOESN'T LET ME AND IT MIGHT HAVE A RECALL ON THE LIGHTS

NHTSA ID

11268851

Incident

Oct 16, 2019

THIS VEHICLE HAS ( ACCORDING TO ALL SOURCES AVAILABLE ) BURNED OIL FROM THE TIME IT LEFT THE PLANT BRAND NEW,MOST 2000 TO 2002 TOYOTA CELICA GT'S HAVE THIS ISSUE AS THE RINGS WERE BAD. TOYOTA HAS NEVER PRODUCED A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE AND IT HAS EFFECTED THOUSANDS OF VEHICLES.TOYOTA DID CHANGE THE RINGS OUT FOR THE 2003 MODELS AND NEWER, SO THEY DID KNOW THE PROBLEM EXISTED.THIS HAS CAUSED MANY CELICA'S TO EXPERIENCE BLOWN MOTORS. *TR

NHTSA ID

10662493

Incident

Jun 23, 2010

Mileage

190,000 mi

I TOWED MY VEHICLE TO NEWBOLD TOYOTA ON JULY 28, 2014, AND ON JULY 29, I SPOKE TO [XXX], A SERVICE ADVISOR AND EXPLAINED WHY MY VEHICLE WAS THERE. HE INDICATED THEY WOULD DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM AND GET BACK TO ME. AT 3:28 PM [XXX] CALLED ME BACK INDICATING THAT THE ENGINE WAS DONE DUE TO THE OVER-REV WHICH BLEW THE ENGINE. HERE IS MY STATEMENT ON WHAT HAPPENED: ON JULY 28 2014 AT ABOUT 7 A.M., I WAS TRAVELING TO WORK ON I-255 SOUTHBOUND WHEN MY GAS PEDAL SUNK TO THE FLOOR WHILE TRAVELING AT 70 MPH IN FIFTH GEAR. THE CAR SPED UP, SO HAVING A MANUAL TRANSMISSION, I SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL. I PROCEEDED TO RAISE THE PEDAL WITH THE TIP OF MY SHOE, WITH NO SUCCESS AND ENGINE REVVING, I DECIDED TO SLAM ON THE BRAKE FOR A BRIEF SECOND, WHEN THE GAS PEDAL SPRUNG RIGHT BACK UP. I THEN PLACED IT IN SIXTH GEAR AND KEPT GOING FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 MILES, DESPITE HEARING A RATTLING NOISE. AS I TURNED OFF ONTO MY EXIT, I PLACED THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL AND THAT'S WHEN THE ENGINE DIED. AT THIS POINT I COASTED ONTO THE SHOULDER OF THE EXIT RAMP.ON JULY 31, 2014 AT 2:14 PM, I SPOKE WITH THE GENERAL MANAGER ([XXX] ) ABOUT MY SITUATION WITH THE VEHICLE, AND HE TOLD ME TO CALL TOYOTA CUSTOMER SERVICE (1-800-331-4331). I CALLED AND SPOKE WITH [XXX] WHO STARTED A CASE FOR ME. AFTER GIVING HER THE ABOVE DETAILS, AS WELL AS ADDITIONAL INFORMATION SHE REQUESTED, SHE CHECKED ON EXTENDED WARRANTIES AND RECALLS ON MY VEHICLE. SHE INFORMED ME THAT TOYOTA RESPECTFULLY DECLINES ANY ASSISTANCE. I THEN ASKED TO SPEAK TO HER SUPERVISOR, WHICH SHE REPLIED, "THAT WON'T HELP YOU", AND HUNG UP. I FEEL STRONGLY THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I COULD HAVE VERY EASILY CRASHED THIS VEHICLE UNDER NO FAULT OF MY OWN. I FEEL LIKE TOYOTA NEEDS TO MAKE THIS RIGHT. I FEEL LIKE THEY SHOULD REPLACE MY ENGINE, AS WELL AS ISSUING A RECALL ON THIS MODEL YEAR BEFORE SOMEONE GETS KILLED. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

NHTSA ID

10644757

Incident

Jul 28, 2014

THIS IS A 3RD ENGINE !!!!! WHEN I GOT THIS CAR IN 2008 IT WAS ALREADY KNOCKING FROM DEALERSHIP. SOON ROD BEARINGS BLEW OUT AND ENTIRE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED, THESE ENGINES ARE VERY POOR DESIGN THAT OIL STARVE TO DEATH. AFTER REPLACING ENGINE THEY ONLY LAST YA FEW YEARS. 2010 SECOND ENGINE SAME THING STARTED LOOSING OIL NOT FROM LEAKING BUT FROM CONSUMPTION. SHORTLY AFTER STARTED KNOCKING AND RIGHT AFTER SPUN THE ROD BEARING AND DAMAGED ENGINE AGAIN. THESE 1ZZFE ENGINES HAVE VERY POOR CIRCULATION OF OIL AND ONLY WILL TAKE SPECIFIC OIL PRODUCTS BECAUSE OF VERY WEAK OIL PUMP. SO ON MY 3RD ENGINE AND GUESS WHAT ?! KNOCKING !! AFTER ALL TROUBLE WITH THIS I HAVE OVER PAID WHAT THIS CAR IS WORTH BY A TON WITH ENGINE REPLACEMENTS BECAUSE DEALERSHIP CAN'T FIND THE CAUSE. I AM A FATHER AND COMMUTE 100MI TO WORK AND BACK EVERYDAY AND THESE ENGINES ARE THE WORST. THEY OIL STARVE AND DIE. WITH NEW OIL PUMP AND LUCAS OIL ADDITIVE YOU MAY HAVE HOPE BUT IF YOU FOLLOW DEALERSHIP INSTRUCTIONS FEW YEARS LATER HAVE 4,000$ FOR NEW ENGINE READY. *TR

NHTSA ID

10578596

Incident

Jul 11, 2013

Mileage

81,685 mi

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

The condition known as acid rain is caused by airborne chemicals or particles in the atmosphere, which mix with rainwater, nighttime dew, or high humidity to form acidic compounds. If these contaminants settle and remain on a painted vehicle surface, especially the horizonal areas of the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage can occur. This damage is the result of actual etching of the paint and appears as pitting or water spots. As acid rain droplets on the vehicle surface evaporate, the concentration strength of the acid increases, causing deeper and more rapid damage. This evaporation and corrosive action also occur more rapidly on dark colored cars as direct sun heat increases. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. In areas known for high frequency and/or concentration of acid rain, frequent vehicle washing during high heat or humidity periods will minimize the potential for paint damage caused by acid rain. It is further recommended that either reverse osmosis or deionized water be used to prevent water spotting.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.

Toyota vehicles are currently protected with RapgardTM protective film designed to protect the horizontal painted surfaces. This material protects from acid rain, environmental fallout, and rail contamination. Follow the Removal Procedure in this bulletin to remove the RapgardTM protective film within 90 days from initial application.

Acid rain results from rainwater or other airborne moisture that become acidic due to industrial chemical impurities in the atmosphere. If these acidic compounds settle on an exposed vehicle, especially the horizontal areas such as the hood, roof, and decklid, significant damage to the painted surfaces can occur. Acid rain damage can typically be identified on vehicles by the presence of stains on the paint surface that resemble hard water spots. Unlike water spots however, acid rain damage cannot be removed by regular washing procedures. Also, because acid rain can etch and soften the paint, normal buffing or polishing repair procedures should not be attempted. This can cause further damage and result in visible depressions in the paint surface. The following are the three major categories of acid rain damage: •Minor damage: requires only buffing to repair. •Moderate damage: usually requires neutralizing, color sanding, and buffing. •Severe damage: extending beyond 1/2 mil of clearcoat on a pearl, metallic, or solid color, requires neutralization, sanding, and repainting. In cases where acid rain damage is minor, neutralization and buffing with a liquid-type paint finessing product may provide an adequate repair. Only specially formulated products outlined in this bulletin should be used for that purpose. Unfortunately, other than minor damage, there is no simple method of determining the actual extent (depth) of acid penetration other than color sanding a representative affected area until there is no visible etching or depressions, followed by measuring the amount of paint removed with either a magnetic or digital-type film thickness gauge. The procedures in this bulletin are intended for use by qualified body/paint technicians and should not be attempted by inexperienced personnel. It is the dealer’s responsibility to protect and maintain the quality of the vehicle’s paint finish after receipt at the dealership prior to the first sale. Perform frequent vehicle washing, as often as daily, during high heat and humidity periods to minimize the potential for paint damage due to acid rain exposure. This is especially important in geographical areas known for high frequency and concentration of acid rain and industrial fallout.

To prevent brake rotor rust from forming during transportation and storage, wheel film will be used instead of a cardboard type of anti-rust cover. The purpose of the wheel film is to shield the disc brake rotor from weather elements and initial rust before the vehicle is delivered to the customer. Consequently, the film should remain on the wheel for as long as possible.